Spicy Tomatillo Soup

With a number of record low high temperatures in Wisconsin this week, you would think my gardens would go on strike. But despite their distinctly summer soul, my tomatillo plants are still generously gifting me with a respectable amount of fruit. It won't be all that long until I start picking up my winter with all its glorious roots, so I certainly don't object to eating up these lighter veggies for a while yet. I'll admit my tastes are drifting towards fall, falling victim to the siren song of all things apple and pumpkin, but my taste buds don't object to that dichotomy.

Despite being located on opposite sides of my yard, my cucumbers also missed the memo about the fall slow down, so I was happy to use up some of those as well. All the veggies keep this soup nice and light with low calorie yogurt creaminess making it gently filling. (For vegans, avocado would make a nice substitution). It can be as spicy as you like, depending on whether you remove the ribs and seeds from the peppers, balanced by the roasty garlic and acidic lime. Add only a little water if you'd like this as as light main course, but it can certainly be stretched to many side dishes if you dilute it further. 

My favorite season might be well on its way, but it's too early to completely turn my back on the light and spicy tastes of summer just yet. Bring it on garden! I'm still ready for you.

Spicy Tomatillo Soup
adapted from Martha Stewart
makes 4 servings

2 pounds tomatillos, hulled and washed
6 garlic cloves
1 to 2 jalapeño or serrano chiles
2 cups diced cucumber
1/2 cup roughly chopped onion
1/2 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1 cup homemade or low-sodium canned vegetable or chicken stock, skimmed of fat
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 cup plain yogurt
Water, to thin (optional)

1. Heat broiler. Place tomatillos, garlic, and serrano chile in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, and roast until tomatillos are soft and browned in spots, about 5 minutes. Turn all items; continue cooking until other side is soft and browned, about 5 minutes more. Remove from heat; let cool slightly.

2. Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack; let cool completely. Peel garlic, seed peppers, if desired, and place in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Add tomatillos and any accumulated juices along with cucumber, onion, cilantro, stock, lime juice, and salt; blend until mixture is smooth. Add yogurt and desired amount of water; process until they are just combined.

3. Transfer to a large bowl or plastic storage container; cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 2 hours. Serve cool, at room temperature, or slightly warm.

Spinach Enchiladas

Rick Bayless will forever be my go-to source for Mexican recipes, but I'm starting to think Joe Yonan has some pretty good ideas too. Mexican food doesn't have to be thoroughly authentic to be deeply satisfying, and I definitely have a fondness for both the Americanized and authentic versions. Just as gratifying as your favorite greasy Mexican joint, but without a requirement to be dressed for public dining, this meal is the perfect way to indulge your craving with a hint of authenticity and without settling for the Taco Bell drive-through.

I'm a sucker for anything in a tortilla, from whole wheat roasted veggie wraps, to fish tacos in homemade corn tortillas, to greasy quesadillas and everything in between. This recipe is a great balance of flavor, health, and convenience, using a collection of pantry staples and fresh vegetables to get this gorgeous meal into the oven in less than half an hour. Yogurt makes the quickly cooked vegetables wonderfully creamy with low caloric impact, tucked happily into tender corn tortillas with savory tomato sauce. Dipping the tortillas into the sauce before stuffing and rolling is a simple step that makes all the different in unifying the ingredients, though coating everything in a gentle layer of cheese certainly doesn't hurt. I can't imagine a Mexican dish without cilantro, but if your genetic misfortune means it leaves a soapy taste in your mouth, feel free to leave it out. This meal is plenty hearty as is, but beans, mushrooms, or chicken certainly wouldn't be unwelcome additions to the spinach.

Spinach Enchiladas
adapted from Eat Your Vegetables by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 large shallot lobe, chopped, or 1/4 cup finely chopped white or yellow onion
1 clove garlic, minced or pressed
1/2 small to medium jalapeno, finely chopped (leave seeds and ribs for extra heat)
3 cups lightly packed baby spinach leaves, washed and dried (about 3 ounces)
2 tablespoons whole Greek-style yogurt, sour cream, or creme fraiche
2 (6-inch) corn tortillas
2/3 cup flavorful store-bought or homemade tomato sauce, thinned with 2 to 3 tablespoons of water
1/4 cup grated Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Pour the oil into a small skillet over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the shallot, garlic, and jalapeno and cook until soft but not browned. Add the spinach and stir-fry until it has just wilted, then scrape the mixture into a bowl and stir in the yogurt. Season with salt to taste.

3. Warm the tortillas to make them more pliable : either microwave them for a few seconds or heat them in a dry skillet over medium-high heat for about 10 seconds on each side, just enough to soften them. (If you have a gas stove, you can also put hem directly on the burner grate over the flame for a few seconds on each side.) Immediately wrap them in foil to keep them warm.

4. Pour the thinned-out tomato sauce into the skillet that you sauteed the shallow mixture in and bring it to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat to love so that the sauce is barely simmering. Use tongs to dip the tortillas into the sauce one at a time, leaving them in for a just a few seconds; lift them out, letting the excess sauce drip off, and transfer them to a plate.

5. Spread about a quarter of the sauce on the bottom of a small casserole or individual gratin dish. Lay the softened tortillas on a work surface. Place half the spinach mixture in the center of each one, then roll the tortillas to form enchiladas and arrange them seam side down on top of the layer of sauce in the casserol dish. Spoon the remaining sauce on top and sprinkle with the grated cheese.

6. Bake until the cheese has melted and the sauce is bubbling, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle the enchiladas with the cilantro and eat hot.

Black Bean Soup with Seared Scallops or Shrimp and Green Salsa

The idea of concentrated soup base just isn't getting old, and as I suspected, this series of black bean soups is just as delicious as the sweet potato one. The sweet potato soups may have explored a more diverse spectrum of flavors, but this black bean soup base has lent itself exceptionally to Mexican-inspired dishes. It was first put to good use in a spicy tortilla variation, now topped generously with tender seafood and an exceptionally fresh salsa. The contrast between the the hearty soup and the fresh salsa is striking, and in the best possible way. Each bite of the black bean soup is thick and silky, punctuated perfectly by he crunchy electric green salsa. The heat from the ancho chiles in the base is subtle and smooth, but the salsa brings a bright and assertive heat of its own, tempered just enough by the creamy avocado. This filling bowl is certainly a meal on its own, but a handful of tortilla chips are an ideal final touch, perfect for crumbling over the top or scooping up generous bites.

Black Bean Soup with Seared Scallops or Shrimp and Green Salsa

adpated from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan

serves 1

1 to 1 1/2 cups Spicy Black Bean Soup Base (see below), defrosted if frozen

Up to 1/2 cup water or chicken or vegetable stock

1/2 to 1 serrano or jalapeno chile

1/4 barely ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 small tomatillo, husk removed, rinsed, and cut into 1/2-inch slices

1 very small shallot love, finely chopped

Finely grated zest of 1 lime

Juice of 1/2 lime

1 teaspon agave nectar or honey

3 large sea scallops (about 3 ounces), or 3 ounces large to extra-large shrimp

Kosher or sea salt

1 tablespoon peanut, vegetable, or canola oil

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the soup base, then whisk in enough water or stock to reach your desired consistency. Cook for a few minutes to heat the soup through, then decrease the heat to lovw, cover, and keep it hot while you make your topping.

2. Remove the stem from the serrano and scrape out the ribs and seeds, reserving the seeds. Finely chop half the serrano, then transfer it to a small bowl. Add the avocado, tomatillo, shallot, cilantr, lime zest and juice, and agave nectar; stir to combine. Taste, and if you want the salsa spicier, add some of the serrano seeds and/or the other half of the serrano, finely chopped. 

3. Remove the large side muscle from the scallops. Then, unless they're dry-packed scallops, rinse them and thoroughly pat dry. Season the scallops with salt on each side.

4. Pour the oil into a medium skillet over medium-high heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the scallops or shrimp, making sure they aren't touching each other. Sear until they have a 1/4-inch-deep golden crust, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn them over and sear on the other side for another minute or so. Scallops should still be slightly springy to the touch,and you should be able to tell on the sides that the middle is still slightly translucent. Transfer them to a plate.

5. Ladle the soup into a wide, shallow bowl, top the salsa and then the scallops, and eat.

Spicy Black Bean Soup Base
from Joe Yonan's Serve Yourself
makes 4 to 5 cups

2 dried ancho, guajillo, or New Mexico chiles, or more to taste
1/2 pound dried black beans (1 heaping cup)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 shallot loves or 1/2 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, plus more as needed

1. Tear, break, or use scissors to cut the anchos into small strips or pieces. Combine them with the bean in a large bowl and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Let soak for at least 6 hours or overnight.

2. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery shallots, garlic, cinnamon, and allspice. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook the vegetables slowly until they start to become tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the beans, chiles, their soaking liquid, and enough water to cover the beans by 1 inch. Increase the heat to high to bring the contents to a boil. Then decrease the heat to low so that the liquid is at a bare simmer.

4. Cover and gently cook until the beans are very tender, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the beans. Add the salt, cook for a few more minutes, then let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup, then taste and adjust the salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can puree it in a blender or food processor. If you are using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the soup.

6. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate up to 1 week, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags, pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Mahi Mahi with Kiwi-Avocado Salsa and Coconut Rice

I just can't stop being impressed with Joe Yonan's Serve Yourself. Though I have the culinary ambition to cook for a full house most nights, I'm typically just preparing a meal for one or two, and Yonan's books keep my dinner table consistently interesting. Whether you're a single cook or a parent trying to eat healthy in a land of tater tots and chicken fingers, you still deserve to sit down to a proper dinner and Joe Yonan is just the man to help you do it.

Mahi mahi and other white fish are, at least in my opinion, serve more as a canvas than the main subject of interest. But with a gorgeous salsa like the one featured here, ordinary fish becomes irresistible. The avocado is rich and creamy, kiwi tart, cilantro fresh and herby, and jalapeno spicy, a melange of flavors hitting all your taste buds in wonderful balance. Using coconut water to prepare the fish and rice creates a base deserving of those vibrant flavors, both elements happily cooking away unattended while you quickly toss the salsa together. Toasted coconut is the perfect finishing touch, adding a lovely crunch and extra bit of toasty flavor.

Mahi Mahi with Kiwi-Avocado Salsa and Coconut Rice

adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan

serves 1

1 (6-ounce) mahi mahi fillet (or substitute halibut)
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup coconut water
1/3 cup jasmine or other long-grain white rice*
1 kiwi, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes
½ ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into ½-inch cubes
1 scallion, white and green parts, cut into ¼-inch slices or 2 T. finely minced red onion
½ fresh jalapeno chile, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (optional)
Juice of 1 lime
Leaves from 3 or 4 sprigs cilantro, chopped, plus additional for garnish
½ teaspoon honey or agave, or more to taste (optional)
1 tablespoon toasted coconut
Sriracha or other hot sauce (optional)

*Substituting brown rice will required additional coconut water and cooking time.

1. Pat dry the mahi mahi with a paper towel and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

2. In a small skillet or saucepan fitted with a lid, combine the coconut water, rice, and ¼ teaspoon of salt over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat until the liquid is barely bubbling. Place the mahi mahi fillet on top of the rice, cover, and cook for about 15 minutes, or until all the coconut water is absorbed. Turn off the heat and let the rice and fish stand, covered, for another 5 minutes.

3. While the rice and fish are cooking, make the salsa. In a small bowl, stir together the kiwi, avocado, scallion, jalapeno, lime juice, and cilantro. Taste and add a touch of salt if necessary and a drizzle of honey if it’s too tart.

4. Transfer the rice and fish to a plate, top with the salsa, garnish with toasted coconut, cilantro, and hot sauce, if desired, and eat.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce

Earlier this week I shared a recipe for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce, so it now it's time to share one that is a bit farther down the cooked scale. In the previous sauce the flavor profile featured the tartness, but in this sauce acidic notes are muted in favor of a deeper, earthier flavor. It doesn't go as far as Roasted Tomatillo Salsa, which is all about the roasted and smoky flavors, but nicely bridges those two extremes. Again we see chiles, cilantro, and onion making an appearance, garlic and stock fortifying the flavor even further. With that usual cast of characters, this is most certainly a pleasing preparation for any tomatillo lover, but the gentler acidic character will appeal to larger audience of non-tomatillo devotees.

Any of the suggestions I made for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce are just as appropriate for this variation, though I heartily endorse its use in the shredded pork chilaquiles pictured above. As I steadily make my way through my freezer cache in order to make room for my impending winter CSA, I am both delighting in the revisiting these summer flavors and sad to see them go. But when you love food and cooking as much as I do, each day has the potential for culinary adventure. Who knows? This concentrated summer flavor just may end up meeting up with hearty winter squash.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce
makes about 2 1/2 to 3 cups
adapted from Authentic Mexican by Rick Bayless

1 pound (11 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and washed OR two 13-ounce cans tomatillos, drained
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 3 chiles serranos or 2 chiles jalapenos), stemmed
5 or 6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1 large garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon lard or vegetable or canola oil
2 cups any low-sodium poultry, meat, or vegetable broth or stock (depending on how the sauce is to be used)
Salt, about 1/2 teaspoon (depending on the saltiness of the broth)

1. The tomatillos. Boil the fresh tomatillos and chiles in salt water to cover until tender, 10 to 15 minutes; drain. Simply drain the canned tomatillos.

2. The puree. Place the tomatillos and chiles (raw ones if using canned tomatillos) in a blender or food processor, along with the coriander, onion, and garlic; if using a blender, stir well. Process until smooth, but still retaining a little texture.

3. The sauce. Heat the lard or oil in a medium-large skillet set over medium-high. When hot enough to make a drop of the puree sizzle sharply, pour it in all at once and stir constantly for 4 or 5 minutes, until darker and thicker. Add the broth, let return to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and simmer until thick enough to coat a spoon, about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce

I finally cleaned out my gardens last week. My final harvest yielded a good amount of eggplant, some jalapenos, poblanos, and mini sweet bell peppers, a couple tomatoes, a surprise 2+ pound zucchini the size of my forearm, and even a few last tomatillos from plants that looked like they were in their death throes, yet were flowering at the same time. Apparently it's not just my mutant plants hanging on for dear life, as I saw a couple vendors still selling a few tomatillos, but I thought I should share a few last tomatillo recipes before all vestiges of this favorite fruit disappear.

If you know me or Mexican cooking, it should be no surprise that I went straight to Rick Bayless for recipes. I can't say enough about how much I love his cookbooks and recipes, so I expect nothing less than  perfection when I try his recipes. And you know what? I'm never disappointed. I've made seemingly countless tomatillo sauces at this point, mostly from his recipes, all with their own unique character. As the name would suggest, this sauce is fresh and vibrant, celebrating all the tart and citrusy notes of the tomatillo. Hot chiles, cilantro, and onion are familiar companions, this classic combination just as delicious with barely cooked tomatillos as deeply roasted ones.

There's no end to the ways this sauce can be used. A few suggestions include a dip for chips, topping for tacos, tostados, and eggs, or sauce for smothered burrito pictured above, though that is certain not an exhaustive list. If you like tomatillos, you're almost guaranteed to love this sauce, relishing in it's spicy, tart flavor brightens up any dish it is added to.

Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce

from Authentic Mexican 20th Anniversary Ed: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico by Rick Bayless

makes about 1 ½ cups

8 ounces (5 or 6 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and washed
OR one 13-ounce can tomatillos, drained
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 2 chiles serranos or 1 chile jalapeno), stemmed
5 or 6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
½ small onion, chopped
Salt, about ½ teaspoon

1. The tomatillos: Boil fresh tomatillos in salted water to cover until barely tender, 8 to 10 minutes; drain. Canned tomatillos only need to be drained.

2. The puree: Place the tomatillos in a blender or food processor. If you want a milder sauce, seed the chile(s), then chop into small bits and add to the tomatillos along with the coriander and chopped onion; if using a blender, stir well. Blend or process to a coarse puree.

3. Finishing the sauce: Scrape into a sauce dish, thin to medium-thick consistency with about ¼ cup water, then season with salt. Let stand for about ½ hour before serving, for the flavors to blend.

Traditional Variations

Chunky Tomatillo Sauce: Prepare the sauce as described, finely chopping the chile, onion and coriander, then adding them to the blended tomatillos. If the chopped onion is rinsed, the sauce will sour less quickly.

All-Raw Tomatillo Relish: Prepare the sauce with chopped raw tomatillos, adding ¼ cup water before blending. Taste for salt and stir in additional water, if needed.

Grilled Tacos with Poblanos and Corn

This began as a tuna tacos, morphed into pork tacos, and has ended up as my choose-your-own-protein-adventure taco recipe of the summer. Although I've found it suits nearly any protein, for me this really started with the poblanos and corn.

It would be hard to pick the one thing I most anticipate arriving at the farmers' market, but it just might be sweet corn. I pick up a few ears every week that it's available to grill and slather in butter, and that preparation is so perfect that sometimes I forget to use it anything else. Poblanos are probably my favorite pepper, the perfect combination of flavor and heat for salsa, tacos, or nearly any other Mexican dish you throw at them. It was with these two ingredients that I cemented the idea of grilling tacos for dinner one Sunday night, the protein of choice (tuna steak), one of convenience rather than inspiration. My search for fish tacos led to the typical white fish recipes and my base recipe, courtesy of Eating Well. When I discovered that my hearty tuna steak was a delicious choice in lieu of lighter tilapia, I was prompted to try additional proteins, finding them just as successful. Each one complements and contrasts differently, but the simple dressing of bright lime, smoky cumin, and earthy oregano finds nearly universal success. You can easily further dress up these tacos with jalapeno slices, cilantro, and salsa if you like, but even in their simplest incarnation you won't be left wanting.

Grilled Tacos with Poblanos and Corn
adapted from Eating Well
serves 1 to 2

1 poblano pepper
1 small red onion, cut in half

1 ear corn on the cob, husk and silks removed
1/2 tablespoon lime juice
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon salt

4- to 6-ounce tuna steak or other protein of choice (tilapia, pork cutlets/tenderloin, steak, chicken breasts/thighs, firm tofu, portabello mushrooms etc.)
3 to 4 corn tortillas, for serving

Salsa, for serving

Sliced jalapeno, for serving (optional)
Fresh chopped cilantro, for garnish

1. Prepre a gas grill over high heat. Meanwhile, brush cut sides of onion, poblano, and corn with oil and season with salt and pepper.

2. Once grill is hot, reduce to heat to medium high and brush with oil. Add onion, poblano, and corn and grill, turning periodically, until surfaces are blistered and blackened, about 4 to 6 minutes per side for the onion and poblano, 2 minutes for the corn (four sides). Remove from heat and allow to rest until they can be easily handled. Remove blackened skin from poblano, if desired, slice pepper and onions, and place in a medium bowl. Remove 1/4 cup corn from corn cob, add to the bowl, and toss everything with lime juice and spices.

3. Season tuna steak or pork cutlets with salt and pepper. Generously oil the grill again and add tuna or pork.

For tuna: Allow to cook until fish releases easily from the grate, about 4 minutes. Flip fish and continue cooking to desired level of doneness, usually about another 4 minutes for the other side. Remove fish from grill, allow to rest for a few minutes, and flake into large pieces.

For pork cutlets: Grill 2 to 3 minutes per side, or until internal mixture reaches 160 degrees F. Allow to rest for a few minutes, and thinly slice.

Add protein to vegetable mixture and toss to combine.

4. Wrap tortillas in paper towels and microwave until warm and pliable, about 30 seconds. Add vegetable mixture to tortillas, garnishing with salsa, jalapeno, and cilantro. Serve promptly.

Grilled Spicy BBQ Chicken (or Shrimp) Pizza

I can't remember a time in my life when I didn't love pizza. But while I had a tendency to crave a doughy, thick crust pizza in my younger days, now I'm all about the crispy Neapolitan-style. Madison has a number of delicious Neapolitan style pizza places which I enjoy frequenting, though sadly there's no way to get that 900 degree wood-fired deliciousness at home. But making pizza on the grill, be it gas or charcoal, isn't a half-bad substitute. The crust cooks quickly, achieving the glorious bubbles and blackened spots of a Neapolitan oven, picking up a wonderful smokiness from charcoal or wood chips. But that's where the similarity to Neapolitan pizza ends in this recipe. If I'd added the classic basil, tomatoes, and buffalo mozzarella I might be able to pass this off as in the Neapolitan spirit, but my choice of toppings take this in a very different direction.

Barbecue chicken pizza, which I believe was originally created by California Pizza Kitchen, has become a fairly standard (and beloved) menu option. The sweet-spicy barbecue sauce is a fine substitute for the regular tomato variety, a lovely companion to sharp red onion, spicy jalapeno, juicy chicken, and rich cheddar cheese. If your genes aren't working against you, cilantro adds a lovely fresh note, but feel free to leave it off if you'll be serving cilantro-haters.

Grilled Spicy BBQ Chicken (or Shrimp) Pizza
serves 1

4 ounces whole wheat pizza dough
2 tablespoons barbecue sauce (I used Howling Wolf)
2 tablespoons finely chopped or thinly sliced red onion
1 tablespoon chopped jalapeno pepper (add seeds or ribs to desired level of heat)
1/4 cup shredded cooked chicken breast (or cooked, chopped shrimp)
1 to 2 ounces (1/4 to 1/2 cup) shredded cheddar cheese
Chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish (optional)

1. Preheat a gas grill over medium to medium high heat. Meanwhile, roll pizza out on a into a round or oblong shape, about 1/8- to 1/4-inch thick, depending on desired thickness, and brush both sides with oil.

2. When grill is hot, transfer crust to grill. Replace the lid and cook for 3 minutes without disturbing. After 3 minutes, check the crust for doneness, cooking for an additional few minutes if necessary. Transfer crust to a peel or baking sheet.

3. Spread crust with barbecue sauce and top with onion, jalapeno, and chicken. Sprinkle cheese over the top and return the pizza to the grill. Reduce heat to medium low, replace cover, and continue to cook until cheese is melted, about 5 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle cilantro over the top, if desired. Slice and serve promptly.

Veggie Burger

Homemade veggie burgers are one of work lunch staples. I make them in big batches, and because I live with someone who won't touch the non-meat burger variety, I don't have to worry about my the fruits of my labor mysteriously disappearing. But truth be told, these are so incredibly easy that it would hardly matter. Black beans are my go-to bean for a burger because they are not only delicious on their own, but also able to merge successfully with a wide range of flavor profiles and ingredients. This burger takes a decidedly Tex-Mex approach, blending hearty beans and rice with spicy jalapeno, smoky cumin, and deep, rich ancho chiles in just the time it takes to blend a few ingredients together in the food processor. As with any veggie burger, the challenge here is keeping them together in the pan, so be a bit ginger when flipping them and allow for a little rest in the fridge before cooking if you have the time.

I wouldn't be a good Wisconsin girl with saying I think these burgers are just begging for a slice of melty cheese. Assertive sharp cheddar is an excellent choice, made even more perfect with a few final touches like lettuce, red onion, and salsa. All the goodness of a bean burrito in portable, freezable burger patty form, these are a welcome sight at any meal, even making for a fine breakfast with a fried egg.

Veggie Burger
adapted from Bon Appetit
makes 6 burgers

2 15-ounce cans black beans, rinsed
1/2 cup chopped white or yellow onion
6 slices pickled jalapeño
1 tablespoon prepared barbecue sauce
1 teaspoon chili powder, preferably ancho
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 large egg white

1 cup cooked brown rice
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
4 tablespoons canola oil, divided
6 hamburger buns
Lettuce, red onion, tomato, salsa, avocado, etc. (for serving)

1. Set aside 1/2 cup beans. Pulse onion, jalapeño, barbecue sauce, chili powder, cumin, and remaining beans in a food processor until a chunky purée forms.

2. Transfer purée to a medium bowl and mix in egg white, rice, and reserved beans; season with salt and pepper. Form mixture into 6 patties about 1/2-inch thick; cover and chill 1 hour (this helps bind patties so they stay intact while cooking).

3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Working in two batches and adding remaining 2 tablespoons oil between batches, cook patties until browned and crisp, about 5 minutes per side. Serve on buns with desired toppings.

Spicy Coconut Shrimp Sandwich

Shrimp was one of the first foods I recognized as a special occasion treat. Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas - they all meant starting with shrimp cocktail at my house. I was never all that excited about going out for Friday fish fry as a kid (sacrilegious, I know), but I was always eager to chow down on a plate of batter fried shrimp. As an adult, I eat shrimp on a fairly regular basis, with a much expanded repertoire of recipes, but it still always feels special to me. Yet despite it's fancy reputation, at least in my mind, it's one of the quickest and easiest proteins to prepare and is a godsend for anyone in a hurry or on a diet. I made this sandwich on a Friday night when I had plenty of time and no intentions of eating light, using that quick-cooking, lean protein to soak up a brilliant collection of flavors. The marinade begins with creamy, mildly sweet coconut milk, which is then fortified with pungent garlic, brightened with lime, and spiced up with jalapeno, with a final fresh herby note from the cilantro. Because the spice in the marinade isn't quite enough for me (though it may be for many), I added an additional nuanced layer of heat with Sriracha mayo. Cucumber and lettuce finish the sandwich with a cool and crunchy element along with a hint of astrigency from the red onion. All of these elements come together to create a sandwich that would be right at home next to a fruity umbrella drink in an exotic beach cabana, but I think it feels just perfect in my Wisconsin backyard with a cold beer.

Spicy Coconut Shrimp Sandwich
serves 1

1/3 cup coconut milk
1 tablespoon minced jalapeno (include seeds and ribs for more heat)
1/2 tablespoon minced garlic
1/2 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro
1/2 tablespoon fresh lime juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces raw large or jumbo shrimp, deshelled and deveined
Olive or canola oil
Individual French roll, demi baguette, or sub roll, split
1 tablespoon light or regular mayo
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon Sriracha sauce (or to taste)
Lettuce, thinly sliced cucumber and red onion, and cilantro, for serving

1. In a medium bowl, combine coconut milk, jalapeno, garlic, cilantro, lime juice, salt, and pepper, and stir well to combine. Add shrimp, toss to coat, and set aside for at least 30 minutes. In a small bowl, combine mayo and Sriracha sauce and stir to combine.

2. Preheat broiler (or grill) and brush each side of the roll with olive oil. Toast under the broiler until golden brown and crunchy, 2 to 4 minutes. Let come to room temperature, place lettuce leaves on bottom half, and spread top half with spicy mayo.

3. Meanwhile, preheat a pan (or grill) over medium heat and add a drizzle of oil. When oil is hot, add shrimp and cook, turning once, until shrimp are just cooked through, about 2 to 3 minutes per side.

4. Place shrimp on top of bottom half of roll, top with cucumber, red onion, cilantro, and top half of roll. Serve promptly.

Spicy Avocado-Cucumber Soup

It would figure that the temperatures would become reasonable again when I have my first cold soup to share. I made this at the height of our latest heatwave and it was a godsend to only spend a couple minutes at the stove for an incredibly flavorful dinner, a situation I know we'll encounter many more times as the dog days of summer approach. No-cook meals are an obvious way to beat the heat, but spicy bites are also a great choice for steamy weather, this soup a delicious melding of those two approaches.

Thai curry paste (red or green) is one of my favorite shortcuts to a quick and tasty meal, and one of my few complaints about the original recipe is it doesn't use that workhorse ingredient to full effect. Thai green curry paste is most predominately flavored by fresh lemongrass, tangy galangal (Thai ginger), and spicy green chilies and these bold flavors blend seamlessly with the creamy coconut milk, bright lime, and extra chilies. Cucumber is great base for this flavor melange, providing a light and clean canvas to feature this host of bold tastes. Avocado, with all its delightful creaminess and richness, is what makes this soup a substantial first course or satisfying light meal when accompanied a salad and bread. If you want to eschew any sort of cooking you can skip the toasted coconut garnish, but I think the brief encounter with heat is well worth it. Toasty, crunchy coconut is the perfect contrast to the spicy, creamy base, this easy dramatic accent bringing it all together in a feast for the eyes and stomach.

Spicy Avocado-Cucumber Soup

adapted from Food and Wine

serves 5

1 medium (approx. 12-ounce cucumber)
1 teaspoon Thai green curry paste, or more (to taste)
1 teaspoon sugar or honey
1 teaspoon finely grated lime zest
1 serrano, jalapeno, or Thai chile, seeded and chopped
3/4 cup unsweetened coconut milk
1.5 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Salt
1/4 cup unsweetened coconut flakes, for garnish
Cilantro sprigs, for garnish

1. In a food processor, puree the cucumbers until smooth. Add the avocados, curry paste, sugar, lime zest and chile. Process until blended. Add 3 1/2 cups of water, the coconut milk and lime juice and process until smooth. Transfer the soup to a large bowl and season with salt. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, 15 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a skillet, toast the coconut over low heat, stirring a few times, until lightly browned and crisp, 3 minutes. Let cool.

3. Ladle the soup into small bowls or cups, garnish with the toasted coconut flakes and cilantro sprigs and serve.

Black Bean Enchiladas with Spicy Squash Sauce

Of all the things I've made in an effort to use up ridiculous amount of squash puree in my freezer, this has to be my favorite. Sadly, it's not because of the inherent squashiness of the dish, but the way in which it brings all the other ingredients together so perfectly. Squash puree is a fantastic shortcut to a lush sauce, able to blend with all manner of ingredients without dominating the flavor. Though this may not be the kind of authentic fare that will show up in a Rick Bayless cookbook, there's no denying that the silky and subtly sweet squash is an ideal foil for spicy jalapenos and chili powder. Add a hearty black bean filling and a savory frosting of cheese and you've got a crowd-pleasing meal as suitable to Meatless Monday as it is to a celebratory feast. Even better, this meal freezes wonderfully, so make up a double batch to be ready to feed the masses any time.

Black Bean Enchiladas with Spicy Squash Sauce
adapted from Martha Stewart
serves 4

One 15-ounce can seasoned black beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup fresh corn or frozen corn, thawed
6 scallions, thinly sliced
Coarse salt and ground pepper
1 1/2 cups butternut or other winter squash puree
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1 jalapeno chile, quartered (remove ribs and seeds for less heat, if desired)
1 teaspoon chili powder
8 corn tortillas (6-inch)
1 cup grated sharp or smoked cheddar cheese (4 ounces)

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a medium bowl, combine beans, corn, and scallions. Season generously with salt and pepper; set aside.

2. In a blender, puree squash, garlic, jalapeno, chili powder, 1 1/2 cups water, 1 teaspoons salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper until smooth (hold top firmly as blender will be quite full). Taste sauce and season to taste with additional salt and pepper. Pour 1 cup of sauce in the bottom of an 9x13-inch baking dish.

3. Lay tortillas on work surface; mound black bean mixture on half of each tortilla, dividing evenly. Roll up tortillas; place, seam side down, in baking dish.

4. Pour remaining sauce on top; sprinkle with cheese. Place dish on a baking sheet; bake until cheese is golden and sauce is bubbling, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes before serving.

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Smoky Chipotle Black Bean Chili

Fall is chili weather. I've made traditional Better Homes and Gardens chili more times than I can count, each time bringing up fond memories of cooking up a batch in a big cast iron pot with my dad as a kid. Much like getting the wishbone is good luck with the Thanksgiving turkey, in my kid brain getting the bay leaf in your bowl of chili was good luck (so as long as you didn't find it by taking a big bite). Although I hope to develop my own signature, but still largely traditional, chili recipe at some point in my life, my recent experimentation in that department has been largely with bean-based chilies. Some may argue that they're not chili at all, but I find bowls of Pinto Bean and Sweet Potato Chili or Quick Three Bean Chili just as hearty and satisfying as any with beef. But of all the bean chilies I've had and made, this has to be my favorite. As in all Susie Middleton recipes, she builds a complex palate with a deft use of spices, each taste keeping you guessing about what you're enjoying in each bite. This chili has a complex heat from ancho and chipotle chilies with a layered smoky flavor, joined a by melange of sweet and savory spices that coexist in perfect harmony. Red wine allows the spices to bloom and intense tomato paste creates savoriness and umami without meat for a balanced and satisfying dish. Hearty, healthy, and packed with flavor this is the perfect way to fortify yourself for the winter to come.

Smoky Chipotle Black Bean Chili
adapted from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 6

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon ground ancho chile
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon Mexican oregano
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa
1/4 teaspoon ground (dried) chipotle chili
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
Kosher salt
1/4 cup dry red wine
1/4 cup tomato paste
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro stems and leaves, plus 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves, plus additional for garnish
2 teaspoons finely chopped canned chipotle in adobo, plus 2 teaspoons adobo sauce from the can
1 1/2 cups (one 14.5-ounce can) fire-roasted crushed tomatoes
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large or two medium onions, cut into 3/4-inch dice (about 1 1/2 cups)
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh jalapeno, seeds and ribs removed
Three 15.5-ounce cans black beans, drained and rinsed
Brown rice, for serving
Salsa, for serving (optional)
Sour cream, goat cheese, or queso fresco, for serving (optional)
Toasted pepitas, for serving (optional)
6 lime wedges (optional)

1. In a small bowl, combine the ground ancho chile, coriander, cumin, oregano, paprika, brown sugar, cocoa, ground chipotle, cinnamon, cloves, and 1 1/2 teaspoon salt. Set aside.

2. In a liquid measure, whisk together the red wine, tomato paste, finely chopped cilantro stems and leaves, the chopped chipotle, and the adobo. Set aside.

3. In another liquid measure or bowl, combine the crushed tomatoes with 3 cups water and stir well.

4. In a large Dutch oven, heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat. When the butter has melted, add the onion, bell pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt and stir. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Uncover, raise the heat to medium-high, and continue cooking until the onion is lightly browned, another 7 to 8 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the garlic and jalapeno, and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 1 minutes.

5. Add the dried spice mixture and cook, stirring and scraping until well incorporated, 20 to 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste mixture and cook, stirring and scraping it against the sides of the pan, for 1 to 2 minutes.

6. Add the crushed tomato mixture and cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan, until well combined. Bring the mixture to a gently simmer, and cook, loosely covered, stirring occasionally and continuing to scrape the bottom of the pan, for 20 minutes. Keep and eye on the heat and reduce it, if necessary, to maintain a gently simmer.

7. Uncover the pot and add the drained beans. Raise the heat to medium-high and return the chili to a simmer and then reduce the heat to medium-low and maintain a gentle simmer. Stir thoroughly and cook, partially covered, for 10 minutes.

8.  Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro. The chili will stay warm, covered, off the heat for half an house.

9. To serve, spoon 1 cup rice into each of six deep bowl and ladle about 1 cup chili over the rice. Top with your choice of salsa, sour cream, cilantro, pepitas, and lime wedges.

Fresh Corn Muffins

The cooler temperatures of fall and winter call for soups, stews, and chilis, and when I have soup, stew, or chili I require some sort of bread product for dipping, be it crusty bread or rolls, crackers, or even a grilled cheese. When I made Three Sisters Stew, my thoughts immediately turned to cornbread, which I'd been craving for weeks. While even the simplest corn muffins make from Jiffy mix are delicious, I like to put extras into my corn muffins, like fresh corn, peppers, cheese, or bacon (or any combination of those ingredients). This corn muffin recipe is a great basic recipe, with just a bit of sweet fresh corn and spicy jalapeno pepper to punch up the flavor. The whole wheat pastry flour keeps the muffin light and airy and contributes just a touch of nutty flavor, instead of the traditional all-purpose flour that disappears completely behind the flavor of the cornmeal. These muffins take just a few minutes to whip up and any extras can be frozen and reheated quite successfully, so keep a batch in the freezer to make even a meager meal of canned soup a little bit special.

Fresh Corn Muffins
adapted from Food and Wine
makes 12 muffins

6 tablespoons canola oil 
1/2 cup fresh corn kernels (from 1 ear)

2 jalapeños, seeded and finely chopped 
Salt 
1 cup yellow cornmeal 
1 cup whole wheat pastry flour 
1/4 cup sugar 
1 tablespoon baking powder 
1 cup buttermilk 
1 large egg, lightly beaten 

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Line a 12-cup muffin pan with paper liners. Heat 1 teaspoon of the oil in a medium skillet. Add the corn and jalapeños, season with salt and cook over moderately high heat until crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape onto a plate to cool slightly.

2. In a bowl, whisk the cornmeal with the flour, sugar, baking powder and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Add the buttermilk, egg and the remaining oil and stir until blended. Quickly stir in the corn mixture and pour the batter into the muffin cups.

3. Bake the muffins for about 16 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Quick Three Bean Chili

Few dishes are more at home in cool fall and winter days than chili. It's one of the foods that I really look forward to as the cool weather creeps in and we leave summer behind. Chili and football, another event that heralds the beginning of fall, are a perfect pair and I decided to kick off my season of Packer snacks with a batch of chili (and cornbread, recipe to come). Today ended up feeling more like a summer than fall day, but I still happily devoured a hearty bowl of chili with a big piece of cornbread. Although this is far from your traditional chili, it has the advantage of coming together quickly, without sacrificing rich flavor due to the addition of bacon. This chili is a healthy and filling dish and could easily be put together on a weeknight for dinner as well as easily turned into a vegetarian or vegan dish. It contains both jalapeno peppers and a healthy portion of chili powder; cut back on the chili powder if you don't like things too spicy or throw in the jalapeno seeds if you like things extra spicy.

Quick Three Bean Chili
from Food and Wine
serves 4

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 slices of bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips
1 onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 jalapeños, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 cup chili powder
One 15-ounce can Great Northern beans, drained and rinsed
One 15-ounce can pinto beans, drained and rinsed
One 15-ounce can black beans, drained and rinsed
One 28-ounce can diced tomatoes
2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
Chopped cilantro and sour cream, for serving

1. In a medium soup pot, heat the oil until hot. Add the bacon, onion, jalapeños and garlic and cook over moderately high heat until the onion is softened and the bacon fat has been rendered, about 5 minutes. Add the chili powder and cook over moderate heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the beans, tomatoes and stock and bring to a simmer. Simmer the chili over moderately low heat until thickened, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve with cilantro and sour cream.