Turnip, Leek, Potato, and Spinach Soup

Despite, or perhaps because of, it's simplicity, leek and potato soup is one of my favorites. Through some beautiful culinary alchemy, potatoes, leeks, butter, salt, and water turn in something magical that needs no further enhancement. But that certainly doesn't mean there isn't room for experimentation! This riff on classic pays homage to the classic Potage Parmentier without hiding the extra zing from the turnips or hint of earthy greens. It's surprisingly filling for such a light dish, able to become a meal with just a salad or a heartier one as a companion to your favorite sandwich. Tossing in some beans, cooked grains, or a poached egg (or any combination of the three) is my favorite way to fortify this recipe, and create a delicious, healthy meal out of the orphan ingredients in my fridge. The extra soup freezes beautifully, and there will still be plenty to save even after you dig in heartily.

Turnip, Leek, Potato, and Spinach Soup
adapted from the New York Times
makes 8 servings

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 large leeks, white and light green part only, halved lengthwise, cleaned and sliced or chopped
Salt to taste
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 pounds turnips, peeled and diced
1 large russet potato (about 3/4 pound), peeled and diced
2 quarts water, chicken stock, or vegetable stock
8 ounces baby spinach or kale, chopped
A bouquet garni made with a bay leaf and a couple of sprigs each thyme and parsley
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh tarragon and/or chives for garnish

1. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy soup pot over medium heat and add the onion, leeks and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 30 seconds to a minute. Add the turnips, potatoes, water or stock, salt to taste, and the bouquet garni. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer 45 minutes, or until the vegetables are very tender and the soup is fragrant.  During the last few minutes of cooking, add the spinach by handfuls, cooking until the just wilt down. Remove and discard the bouquet garni.

2. Blend the soup in batches in a blender (cover the top with a towel and hold it down to avoid hot splashes), or through a food mill fitted with the fine blade. The soup should be very smooth. Strain if desired. Return to the pot. Stir and taste. Adjust salt, add freshly ground pepper, and heat through. Serve in small bowls or espresso cups, garnished with chopped fresh tarragon and/or chives.

Greens, Pear, and Ginger Smoothie

Although some parts of my gardens have taken some real hits from gopher activity, what I call my "salad garden" is actually doing pretty well. The ample supply of lettuce, arugula, and multiple kinds of kale has definitely dampened the pain of my eggplant casualties and I've been happily squeezing those garden-fresh greens into my diet at every available opportunity. There have been salads and kale chips and leisurely weekend omelettes galore, but my quick weekday breakfasts can definitely benefit from a bit more of the green stuff too.

It wasn't always the case, but smoothies have become a regular part of my weekday routine, and I quite often squeeze in a little bit of extra nutrition by burying some greens in my fruity smoothies. Despite its place the forefront of the health food craze, raw kale can be a little too much for some people, so use spinach if the bitterness is too much. Sweet pear and honey counteract some of the assertive kale flavor, with the sour lemon juice and spicy ginger doing their part as well. Adding chia seeds or flaxseed, especially if you let them soak overnight, will thicken the smoothie up, but it's ready to drink as soon as you finished blending it.

Greens, Pear, and Ginger Smoothie
serves 1

1 to 1 1/2 cups dairy or non-dairy milk of choice (or coconut water)
2 ounces baby spinach or kale, washed and dried
1 ripe pear, seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon freshly-grated ginger
1 teaspoon honey or agave, or to taste (optional)
1 tablespoon chia seeds or ground flaxseed, optional.

1. Place all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth.

Pomegranate Banana Oatmeal Smoothie

I don't juice, in the steroid or produce fashion. In my mind, juicing is just a fad that, while at least getting people to drink something better than soda, is just a way of removing all the fiber from what could be a much more nutritious and satisfying use of fruits and vegetables. Smoothies, on the other hand, those I'm all about. You can probably blame my grandma's homemade Orange Julius' for the beginning of my smoothie adoration, but now they're a much more frequently an easy way to enjoy a nutritious breakfast no matter what else is going on.

This smoothie has a short list of ingredients and each one is really important to texture, flavor, and nutrition of this tasty breakfast. The oats provide whole grains and a hint of texture, yogurt brings filling protein and creaminess, banana adds a bit of sweetness and thickness, with the honey balancing out the sweet-tart antioxidant punch of the pomegranate juice. I err on the side of tart with this recipe, but you may want to increase the honey if you've got a real sweet tooth or want to enjoy this as a dessert(-ish) treat instead. And if you don't mind sullying its beautiful ruby hue, tossing in a handful of greens is great way to squeeze a little extra nutrition in as well.

Pomegranate Banana Oatmeal Smoothie
serves 1

1/4 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
1/2 cup plain (or vanilla) low-fat yogurt (soy or coconut milk yogurt for vegans)
1 banana, preferably frozen, sliced
1/2 cup pomegranate juice
1 teaspoon honey or agave, or to taste

1. In a blender, combine oats, yogurt, banana, juice, and honey; puree until smooth. Serve immediately.

Stir-Fried Asian Greens and Mushrooms

I am a shameless bargain hunter, even at the farmers' market. So when I saw that one of my favorite farms had a special on mustard greens and mizuna, I had to pick up one of each. Mustard greens have become more well-known in recent years, appearing in Indian, African, Chinese, and Japanese cuisine, but mizuna hasn't reached quite the same level of awareness. Mizuna, also known as Japanese mustard, is a peppery green, with a flavor similar to arugula, though a little less assertive in my opinion. It can be pickled, incorporated into a salad (e.g. in lieu of frisee), or, as I have chosen to do here, used in a stir-fry.

With leftover rice or a rice cooker, this meal truly takes 20 minutes, and would take even a bit less with pre-sliced mushrooms. While the mushrooms cook, there's time chop the greens and whisk the sauce together, which cook up quickly as soon as they get tossed in the pan. The earthy mushrooms and piquant greens complement each other nicely, but it's the balanced sweet, savory, toasty sauce that brings everything together. This would be a fine side dish on its own, but becomes a meal over a bed of rice or noodles, and more satisfying one with the addition of tofu, chicken, beef, or pork.

I used cremini mushrooms and mizuna to start, but there's certainly room to experiment with shiitakes, oyster mushrooms, hen of the woods, or just plain old button mushrooms. I like the peppery punch of mizuna, but bok choy or tatsoi would make fine substitutions, as could other non-Asian greens like mustard greens or even collards or kale. The bottom line - pick a mushroom, pick a green, and get to cooking.

Stir-Fried Asian Greens and Mushrooms
adapted from Gourmet
serves 2

8 ounces mushrooms (shiitake, cremini, etc.), sliced
1 tablespoon canola oil
Kosher or sea salt
2 tablespoons rice vinegar (not seasoned)
1.5 tablespoons soy sauce
1 1/4 teaspoons sugar or honey
3/4 teaspoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger
3/4 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
4 to 5 ounces Asian greens (mizuna, tatsoi, etc.), chopped into large pieces
Rice, noodles, or other grain, for serving (optional)
Sriracha or other hot sauce, for serving (optional)

1. Preheat a pan over medium high heat. Add oil, and when it begins to shimmer, add mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, until mushrooms are browned and tender, about 5 minutes. Add mizuna and cook, stirring frequently, until the greens are slightly wilted, another 1 or 2 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, whisk vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, ginger, and sesame oil together in a small bowl. Pour vinegar mixture over vegetables and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until sauce coats all the vegetables and is cooked to desired consistency, usually another 2 to 4 minutes. Serve promptly over rice or noodles, drizzled with hot sauce, if desired.

Easy Portobello Burgers

I, like so many Americans, celebrated Memorial Day weekend with plenty of cooking out. As Monday evening rolled around, after my grill had seen brats, steaks, and corn that got slathered in butter, I was ready to detox my diet. But just because I needed to eat healthier doesn't mean I wanted to eat blander or put the grill away just yet. The perfect solution? Portobello burgers.

Now if you have your heart set on a carnivorous meal, this isn't going to do it for you. My biggest issue with fake meat is products is exactly that - they're so fake. A mushroom is not beef and tofu is never going to be chicken, so why can't we just celebrate these delicious plant products for what they are? And this portobello "burger" is damn tasty. It might not be the same as biting into a big patty of beef, but these portobellos are still a perfect base on which to pile all your favorite burger toppings. A quick marinade of soy sauce, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and garlic deeply infuses the mushrooms with flavor, while also keeping them from becoming a desiccated puck on the grill. Because the "burger" itself is so virtuous, there's absolutely no shame in topping them with a generous smear of the mayo-mustard mixture, plus a slice of cheese if you like as well. And if you still must have some meat, this mushroom is pretty delicious piled right on top of a beef patty.

Easy Portobello Burgers
adapted from Cooking Light
serves 4

1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 (4-inch) portobello mushroom caps
Cooking spray
1/4 cup low-fat mayonnaise
1 to 2 tablespoons coarse grain or Dijon mustard
4 whole grain sandwich buns
Tomato, lettuce, and thinly sliced onion, for serving

1. Combine first 5 ingredients in a large zip-top plastic bag; add mushrooms to bag. Seal and marinate at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours, turning bag occasionally. Remove mushrooms from bag; discard marinade.

2. Prepare grill to medium heat. In a small bowl, whisk together mayonnaise and mustard and season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Place mushrooms, gill sides down, on grill rack coated with cooking spray; grill 4 minutes on each side. Place buns, cut sides down, on grill rack coated with cooking spray; grill 30 seconds on each side or until toasted. Divide mayonnaise mixture evenly between top halves of buns. Place 1 mushroom on bottom half of each bun. Top each mushroom with toppings of choice; cover with top halves of buns.

Spicy Lentil Wraps with Tahini Sauce

No matter how hard I try, I will always have far more bookmarked recipes than I have time to try, much less perfect. In order to keep my culinary to-do list manageable, I have a couple of methods for whether a recipe is really worth a shot - either I'm so excited to try I make it immediately, or it keeps popping back into my head. This recipe is more of the latter variety. The first time I saw it mentioned on The Kitchn, I immediately saved it, but with a few weeks of work lunches in the freezer already, there wasn't room for this one too. But every time I popped over to The Kitchn, I couldn't help thinking about this recipe, so it went right to the top of the queue as soon as my freezer cleaning was complete.

I can't say I've been disappointed with anything I've bought at Trader Joe's, so the fact that this wrap was modeled on a Trader Joe's offering definitely intrigued me. Dried lentils are something I always have around, their quick preparation and affordability making them an absolute pantry staple. Bulgur gets a spot for the same reason, so this meal was practically destined to be in my life. It may not be as quick and easy and picking up a sandwich at the store, but portioning and freezing the leftover lentil mixture makes the extra effort well worth it.

Quick cooking, affordable ingredients aside, this wrap is all about sauces. The homemade versions described below are worth it if you have the time, but even store-bought red pepper paste and tahini will leave your taste buds happy. The lentils and bulgur are the spicy, smoky soul of this wrap, but it's the spicy, savory red pepper paste and creamy tahini that really makes it delicious. Crunchy greens are a nice contrast from the tender filling, my only complaint with this wrap being the somewhat brittle tortilla I used to wrap it all up since I didn't have any whole grain lavash on hand. But you know what? I can't say I really minded scooping up the lingering bits that fell to my plate, those remnants extending my meal a few more delicious bites.

Spicy Lentil Wraps with Tahini Sauce

adapted from The Kitchn
Makes 6 wraps

1/2 cup lentils, preferably red, rinsed
2 cups water
3/4 cups fine grain bulgur
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 scallion, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
6 (approximately 9x12-inch) sheets whole grain lavash or whole grain tortillas
3/4 cup red pepper paste (recipe below, or use store-bought)
2 cups shredded cabbage, spinach, or other greens
Tahini sauce to serve (recipe below)

1. Combine lentils and water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce heat to low. Simmer until lentils are soft, about 20 minutes.

2. Turn off heat and stir in bulgur. Let stand until water is absorbed and bulgur is soft, about 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Add onions and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and translucent. Stir in cumin and red pepper flakes and cook for another minute.

4. Add onions, scallions, parsley, and salt to lentil-bulgur mixture and stir until well combined. Let cool before using to make wraps. (If you want a smoother texture closer to the Trader Joe's version, you can run the filling through a food processor, but I like it just as it is.) You can freeze the filling in an airtight container if not using all at once.

5. To assemble, lay out a lavash sheet with the shorter end closest to you. Spread 1 1/2 tablespoons of red pepper paste across the lower 1/3 of the sheet. Top with the lentil-bulgur mixture, and then the cabbage. Roll from the bottom up, and spread an additional 1/2 tablespoon of red pepper paste across the top end to help seal the wrap. Repeat for remaining wraps.

6. To serve, cut each wrap in half and serve with tahini sauce on the side.

Red Pepper Paste
makes about 3/4 cup

6 red bell peppers, cored and chopped
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Olive oil to cover (if refrigerating)

1. Combine bell peppers, cayenne pepper, and salt in a food processor and puree.

2. Pour the puree into a skillet over low heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until reduced to a paste. This can take up to 2 hours.

3. Let cool before using. To store, pack the paste into a jar, pour enough olive oil on top to cover, and refrigerate.

Tahini Sauce
makes about 3/4 cup

1/4 cup tahini
2/3 cup or more warm water
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley
1/4 teaspoon crushed garlic
1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Place all ingredients in a small bowl and mix with a fork until well combined.

2. Gradually stir in small amounts of additional warm water until the desired consistency is achieved.

Avocado Pasta

For as much as I'm into food and cooking, food trends will often pass me by. Yes, I've put bacon and Sriracha in many recipes, and made many a batch of kale chips, but I missed it when Avocado Pasta made the rounds a few years ago. And it's a real shame that I did, because I could have been eating it for years.

Now a lot of recipes claim to be 15 minute meals, but this one really is. The time it takes for the water to come to a boil and the pasta to cook is more than enough to blend up some avocado, lime, garlic, and cilantro to create the simple sauce. I like to spice it up with a bit of red pepper flakes and hot sauce, but this sumptuously creamy sauce is quite tasty even with just a bit of salt and pepper. Cilantro and lime are my favorite combination, but basil or parsley with lemon are lovely as well. You may also want to add a bit of Parmesan (or nutritional yeast, for vegans) for an even savorier sauce, or chicken or shrimp to make it an even heartier meal.

The only disadvantage to this dish is that, because of the avocado in the sauce, it doesn't reheat well and should be eaten as soon as it's made. But with a meal this tasty, you probably won't end up with any leftovers anyway.

Avocado Pasta
adapted from Two Peas and Their Pod
serves 2

4 to 6 ounces whole wheat spaghetti or fettuccine
1 large ripe Avocado, pitted and peel removed
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes or to taste (optional)
Kosher or sea salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Hot sauce, to taste (optional)

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta to the pot and cook until al dente, or according to the package instructions, reserving 1 cup of the pasta cooking water.

2. While the pasta is cooking, make the sauce by placing the avocado, garlic, lime juice, cilantro, salt and pepper into a food processor or blender. Process until smooth and creamy. Add pasta cooking water, a tablespoon or two a time, to achieve a pourable consistency.

3. Combine the pasta and avocado sauce, adding pasta water as needed to thin the sauce and coat the pasta. Serve warm, garnishing with hot sauce, if desired.

Spicy Thai Coconut Quinoa

I've stumbled across this recipe several times over the past few years and it's a shame it has taken me so long to finally make it. Though the flurries of snow we got this week might indicate differently, it is in fact spring, and spring cleaning at my house includes the fridge, freezer, and pantry. Fortunately for me, this recipe's list of ingredients happened to be perfectly suited to helping me clean out the fridge, and I'm quite glad that happy accident brought me to these fantastic results.

I'm typically making big batches of grains to portion and freeze for an as-yet-unknown use, so they usually just get cooked in water with a pinch of salt. It's recipes like this that remind me how much better grains are when they're cooked in a flavorful liquid. Don't get me wrong, I like quinoa just fine as it is, but when it soaks up flavorful stock and rich coconut milk, it becomes worlds better. Even better, making the quinoa extra-creamy and luxurious makes the fresh and crunchy vegetables, crispy tofu, and spicy peanut sauce pop even more in contrast. All of the elements blend beautifully together, while still retaining their own distinct flavor and texture, creating a meal that is harmonious, but far from monotonous.

Although I eat a primarily plant-based diet, I'm far from an herbivore, and I realize that tofu isn't for everyone. I don't eat it as a substitute for meat, but as a protein all its own, though chicken would make a fine alternative here if tofu isn't your thing.

This recipe might have helped to clean out the fridge, but it also gave back to freezer, portioned into several work week lunches after feeding me so well for dinner. Save the garnishes for when you reheat your meal, but this comes out of the freezer nearly as perfect as when it went in.

Spicy Thai Coconut Quinoa

adapted from CHOW 

serves 4 to 6, heartily, or 6 to 8 for smaller appetites

For the dressing:
1 2/3 cups fresh cilantro (from about 1/2 bunch), long, thick stems removed
3/4 cup roasted, unsalted peanuts
1/3 cup Sriracha hot sauce
2 tablespoons finely grated lime zest (from about 3 medium limes)
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice (from about 3 medium limes)
1/4 cup toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon packed dark brown sugar
2 medium garlic cloves
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

For the quinoa:
2 cups quinoa, any color or variety
1 (14-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk
1 1/3 cups vegetable stock or low-sodium vegetable broth
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
1 (14- to 16-ounce) package firm tofu
2 medium carrots (about 8 ounces)
1 medium broccoli head (about 1 pound)
4 medium scallions
2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Optional garnishes:
Coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
Coarsely chopped roasted, unsalted peanuts
Thinly sliced scallions

For the dressing:
Place all of the ingredients in a food processor fitted with a blade attachment. Process until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, about 1 minute; set aside. (Alternatively, use a high-quality store bought sauce. I like San-J Spicy Thai Peanut Sauce.)

For the quinoa:
1. Rinse the quinoa in a strainer under cold water until the water runs clear. Place in a large saucepan; add the coconut milk, vegetable broth, and measured salt; and stir to combine. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the white outer casings on the quinoa have popped, revealing translucent little beads, about 15 to 20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, line a large plate with several layers of paper towels. Drain the tofu, cut it into large dice, and place it in a single layer on the paper-towel-lined plate; set aside. Trim the carrots and cut them into 1/8-inch-thick rounds; set aside. Trim the stem of the broccoli to 1/2 inch and cut the head into 1-inch florets; set aside. Thinly slice the white and light green parts of the scallions; set aside.

3. When the quinoa is ready, remove it to a large serving bowl and set aside. Wash the saucepan, fill it with water, and season generously with salt. Cover with a tightfitting lid and bring to a boil over high heat.

4. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the tofu and cook without stirring until the bottoms are golden brown, about 4 minutes. (While the tofu is cooking, line the plate you drained it on with fresh paper towels.) Flip and cook until the other sides are golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes more. Using a slotted spoon, remove to the paper-towel-lined plate and season with salt; set aside.

5. Add the carrots to the boiling water and cook until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove them to the bowl with the quinoa. Return the water to a boil, add the broccoli, and cook until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Drain in a colander and place in the bowl with the quinoa and carrots.

(Alternatively, add a bit more oil, if necessary, and stir-fry the carrots and broccoli in the pan that the tofu was just cooked in.)

6. Add the cooked tofu, dressing, and scallions to the bowl and stir to combine. Garnish with additional cilantro, peanuts, and scallions before serving.

Dal Palak

Pretty much every Monday night it is both Meatless Monday and big batch cooking night at my house. Monday might not be the night most people use to be ambitious after work, but I like to use the first night of the week fill up the freezer and get some laundry done while dinner is bubbling away on the stove. Crossing off a long to-do list is my solution to the Monday doldrums, making what would be a drag of a day anyway move a lot more quickly and starting the week on a productive note.

For all the cuisines that make an appearance on my Monday night, I think Indian is the most common. All manner of vegetables and legumes, even many you wouldn't normally expect, take expertly to sweet, savory, and spicy Indian-inspired flavors. They're also ideal candidates for big batch Meatless Monday because they are often healthy, inexpensive, and freeze really well. This trifecta of qualities is what makes a recipe worth investing significant prep and cooking time, provided the outcome is still a delicious dish. And while neither I, or the author of the original, will claim this is the most authentic recipe, there's no denying that this fridge-clearing pile of veggies and melange of spices meet all those criteria perfectly.

For the dinner and lunch the day after, I ate this over brown rice with a dollop of yogurt and dash of hot sauce, but if I get some time to make naan, you can bet this will be one of the first companions it sees. Baked tofu, chicken, or even eggs would also perch perfectly atop this healthy plate if you're feeling especially ravenous.

Dal Palak
adapted from The Kitchn

makes about 8 cups

1 large onion, diced
2 packages (about 16 ounces) white button or baby bella mushrooms, roughly chopped
2 medium-sized red or white potatoes, cubed
1 inch fresh ginger, minced
6 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons coriander
1 Tablespoon garam masala
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 28-ounce can of diced tomatoes
10 ounce bunch of spinach or other hearty green (kale, chard, etc.) cleaned and cut into ribbons
1 cup lentils
3 cups of water or broth
1-2 Tablespoons salt
Chopped scallions, for topping (optional)
Plain yogurt or sour cream, for topping (optional)
Hot sauce, for topping (optional)

1. Heat one tablespoon of olive oil in a large dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat. Add the onions, the mushrooms, and one teaspoon of salt, and cook until the onions are translucent and the mushrooms show spots of golden brown. Add the potatoes and another teaspoon of salt, and cook until the edges are just starting to turn translucent.

2. Clear a space in the middle of the pan and add the ginger, garlic, spices, and one more teaspoon of salt. Cook until the garlic is fragrant (30 seconds), and then stir the spices into the mix. Add the diced tomatoes in their juices, the spinach, and the lentils. Stir to combine everything and then top with three cups of water or broth.

3. Turn the heat to high and bring the soup to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat and let the soup simmer for about 45 minutes until the lentils and potatoes are cooked through. Taste the soup to adjust the seasonings and salt. Stir in half of the chopped scallions, reserving the rest to use as garnish.

4. Serve dal along with rice, naan, or chapatis.

Butternut Squash and Pea Curry

I'm a little hesitant to make any recipe with the word winter in name right now, but just because I've grown tired of winter weather doesn't mean I've lost love for everything bearing that moniker. Be it November or March, the sweet creaminess of butternut squash is a perfect mate for curry, and I won't deny myself one of my favorite veggies just because of its seasonal name. A squash by any other name would taste as sweet...

Mark Bittman specializes in bringing good food, in terms of flavor and nutrition, to the masses. I've been lucky enough to see him speak, and his palpable passion for sustainable, healthy, flavorful food combined with pragmatism is what I think has made his approach resonate with so many people. This recipe is a prime example of that enthusiastic, yet practical approach, tons of flavor and nutrition packed into an inexpensive meal that is prepared quickly and freezes well. There's no special twist or magic to this recipe, just a classic combination of ingredients with an undeniable affinity for each other, that I've made even more flexible. The hearty base squash or sweet potato base eagerly soaks up aromatic curry spices and rich coconut milk, happily punctuated with verdant peas or beans for a well-rounded collection of vegetal flavors.

Even in its simplest form, this is a flavorful vegan dinner, but I encourage you to dress it up to your heart's content. Plain yogurt, hot sauce, and fresh cilantro are my finishes of choice, but particularly ravenous diners may also want to include grilled chicken or tofu. Whether mixed into a bowl of rice, or messily scooped with naan or pita, you'll leave this meal feeling healthy and satisfied.

Butternut Squash and Pea Curry

adapted from How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman

serves 4

2 tablespoons olive or canola oil
1 onion, chopped
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

2 to 4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
1 1/2 pounds butternut or other winter squash, peeled and roughly chopped (or sweet potatoes, or a combination)

1/2 to 1 cup fresh or frozen peas (or green beans)
1 to 1 1/2 cups coconut milk, stock or water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Red pepper flakes, to taste (optional)
Rice, naan, or pita, for serving (optional)
Chopped fresh cilantro leaves, for serving (optional)

Sour cream or yogurt, for serving (optional)
Hot sauce, for serving (optional)

1. Put the oil in a pot or deep skillet with a tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the curry, ginger, and garlic and cook until the onion just starts to brown, about 2 minutes.

2. Add the squash and coconut milk and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes to taste. Bring to a boil, cover, and turn the heat down to low. Cook, stirring periodically, until the squash is just tender, about 20 minutes, checking periodically to make sure there is adequate liquid; if the squash is done and there is still a lot of liquid, remove the lid and turn the heat to medium-high until it’s thicker than stew. Add frozen peas and cook until warmed through. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve hot or warm over rice or naan with choice of garnishes.

Ribollita

It's a well-established fact that once I've acquired a beloved new cookbook, I can rarely restrain myself from getting a little obsessed. After pouring through each and every page, bookmarking as I go, how can I restrain myself? In continuing the Mollie Katzen recipe theme started earlier this week, I have another ready to go.

Ribollita is one of most delicious culinary creations of Tuscany, and like so many beloved dishes, originated as peasant fare. Literally meaning "reboiled", this dish began as a repurposing of the previous day's minestrone or vegetable soup, fortified with leftover bread. I'm fortunate enough to be deliberately preparing this meal rather than cobbling it together from leftovers, but I have no less appreciation of this affordable collection of humble vegetables melded into a hearty stew.

This meal is a labor of love and leisure, the kind of weekend project to let to lazily simmer on a Sunday afternoon while you mill about the house or relax with a good book. It might be tempting to short cut the process with some canned cannellinis, but much of flavor comes from the herb-infused beans and bean broth used later to cook the vegetables, so look to a different recipe for a quick ribollita. This can be streamlined a bit into a weeknight meal by preparing the beans the night before you'd like to serve the soup, making sure to reserve some of the bean broth as well. Each bite is herby and earthy and delicious down to the core in the vegan rendition, but the savory Parmesan takes it one more scrumptious step that my Dairyland origins wouldn't let me dream of omitting. Finally, a slice of rustic bread is absolutely imperative for staying honest to the peasant origins and more importantly, mopping up every last bit of beans, veggies, and broth.

Ribollita
adapted from The Heart of the Plate by Mollie Katzen
serves 6

For the beans:
1 cup dried cannellini beans, soaked for at least 4 hours (preferably overnight)
3 large garlic cloves, peeled and halved
3 fresh sage leaves
1 3-inch spring fresh rosemary
Several sprigs fresh thyme
1 medium Parmsan rind (up to 4 ounces; optional)

1. Drain the soaked beans and place them in a large pot along with enough fresh water to cover by at least 2 inches (3 inches is even better). Add the garlic and herbs and bring to a boil.

2. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook, partially covered, for 1 1/2 hours, or until the beans are as soft as they can get while still keeping their shape. (Make sure they are truly soft. No undercooked beans!) If you like, you can add the Parmesan ring about 45 minutes into the simmering.

3. Remove from the heat and drain in a strainer set over a large heatproof bowl, saving the cooking water. (Fish out the herbs and Parmesan rind, if using; it's okay to leave in the garlic.)

For the stew:
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups chopped onion (1 large)
2 celery stalks, diced
1 large carrot, cut into half circles about 1/8-inch thick or into bite-sized chunks
3/4 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
2 tablespoons minced or crushed garlic
1/2 pound green cabbage, cut into bite-size pieces (2 heaping cups)
1 large or 2 small bunches lacinato kale (1/2 pound total), stemmed and chopped fairly small (4 packed cups) or spinach or other hearty greens
Black pepper
About 6 slices artisan bread (day-old is fine), sch as ciabatta or Pugliese, toasted
Grated aged Parmesan, Pecorino, or Asiago (optional)

1. Place a soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat for about a minute, then add 2 tablespoons of the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently for 5 minutes, or until the onion begins to soften. Stir in the celery, carrot, 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, and 1 tablespoon of the garlic and cook for another 5 minutes, stirring often.

2. Stir in the cabbage, kale, and remaining 1 tablespoon garlic, sprinkling them with another 1/2 teaspoon salt as you go. The pot will be crowded at first, but the vegetables will cook down. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until all the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Add small amounts of the bean cooking water (1/2 cup at a time) if needed to prevent sticking, but otherwise try to force-cook the vegetables in their own moisture, adding as little water as possible.

3. When the vegetables are done to your liking, add the beans, stirring them in gently so they don't break. Add a little more bean-cooking water, if you wish. Cover again and cook for just a few more minutes. Taste to adjust the salt and add a good amount of black pepper.

4. Serve hot, drizzled with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, and topped with the toasted bread. If you want to enjoy a cheese-crusted experience, spoon the stew into ovenproof ceramic bowls (as you would with French onion soup), top with the bread sliced, sprinkle some cheese over the bread, and broil briefly.

Quick Tomato, White Bean, Sweet Potato, and Kale Soup

When you live in Wisconsin, the first day of the year in the fifties is a major victory. We air out the house even when there's a heavy covering of snow on the ground, drive around with the windows rolled down, and a few brave souls will don shorts for the occasion. Unfortunately, that lasted but one fleeting day this week, but it has definitely given me a metaphorical taste for spring. I'm more than ready to begin to transition to my literal tastes to more spring-like fare, as the days where I'll be craving a massive, piping hot, bowl of soup are happily numbered.

But while I'm still looking out on a yard full of snow, I'm happy to keep indulging that craving. There are plenty of white bean and kale soup recipes available, but my riff on a New York Times recipe is the first I've seen with sweet potatoes, confirming my theory those orange-fleshed beauties are nearly always a great substitution. Creamy white beans and tender kale go just as well with that delicious tuber as its blander and less nutritious cousin, perfectly finished with a sprinkling of salty, nutty Parmesan cheese. Fresh off the stove, there's no doubt it's a wonderful meal, but flavors meld and deepen over a day or two in the fridge, and fare pretty well when you pluck a serving from the freezer days or weeks later.

Quick Tomato, White Bean, Sweet Potato, and Kale Soup

adapted from the New York Times

serves 4 to 6

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 large carrot, chopped
1 stick celery, chopped (optional)
Salt to taste
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 14-ounce can chopped tomatoes, with juice
6 cups water
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon oregano
1 medium sweet potato (about 6 to 8 ounces), scrubbed and diced
A bouquet garni made with a bay leaf, a couple of sprigs each parsley and thyme, and a Parmesan rind (optional – but it does add flavor; use what you have for this)
1/2 pound kale, stemmed, washed thoroughly, and chopped or cut in slivers (4 cups chopped)
1 can white beans, drained and rinsed
Freshly ground pepper
Lemon juice, to taste
Grated Parmesan for serving (optional)

1. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large, heavy soup pot and add the onion, carrot, and celery and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are tender, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the tomatoes and juice from the can, add another pinch of salt and cook, stirring often, for 5 to 10 minutes, until the tomatoes have cooked down slightly.

2. Add the water, tomato paste, oregano, sweet potato, and salt to taste. Bring to a boil, add the bouquet garni, cover and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, until the sweet potatoes are just about tender.

3. Add the kale and simmer another 10 minutes, until the kale and sweet potatoes are tender and the soup is fragrant. Taste, adjust salt, and add pepper and lemon juice to taste. Stir in the beans and heat through for 5 minutes. Serve, sprinkling some Parmesan over each bowl.

Stewed Cauliflower, Butternut Squash, and Tomatoes

Behold the latest in the Joe Yonan make-a-big-batch-and-freeze-the-leftovers recipes! Unlike with the sweet potato and black bean soups, I'm sharing the base recipe straight away. While those soup bases are delicious on their own, they were ultimately designed to be as a canvas for other ingredients. This glorious pot of veggies, however, is a composed dish all on its own. The textures progress from melted tomatoes to soft squash to tender cauliflower, painted with a diverse palate of vinegary capers, spicy red pepper flakes, and umami-packed fish sauce. Fish sauce may set off a few alarm bells for some people, but it only serves to make this dish savory, not fishy, deepening the flavor rather than changing it.

This is a delicious vegetarian main or side dish, both options which I personally enjoyed in short order. For dinner, I layered a hearty scoop over a plate of greens, topping with a grilled salmon fillet. At lunch the following day, I combined the veggies with more greens and quinoa for an equally satisfying vegetarian meal. In addition to a few Joe Yonan recipes in the hopper, I also see a future for these stewed veggies as a pasta sauce, topping for other grains like couscous, rice, and bulgur, and partner for grilled chicken. Perhaps they'll even make their way into a grilled cheese? I wouldn't be a good Wisconsin girl if I didn't find a way for these vegetables to make their acquaintance with the delicious dairy this state has to offer.

Stewed Cauliflower, Butternut Squash, and Tomatoes
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
makes 6 to 7 cups

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 plump cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 small (1 1/2-pound) butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 3 cups)
1 (1-pound) cauliflower, cored and cut into 1-inch florets
1/4 cup small capers, drained
Coarse sea salt or kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or more to taste
1 (28-ounce) can Italian plum tomatoes and their juice, preferably San Marzano, crushed by  hand
1 cup water
2 teaspoons Asian fish sauce, or more to taste (or vegan fish sauce or tamari or soy for a vegetarian/vegan version)

1. Pour the olive oil into a large saucepan set over medium-high heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, scatter in the sliced garlic and let it start sizzling. Stir in the onion slices and cook until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the squash and cauliflower pieces, capers, 1 teaspoon salt, and the red pepper flakes and use tongs to toss it all together.

2. Pour in the crushed tomatoes and their juices. Slosh the water into the can and add; stir well and cover. When the tomato juices are boiling, decrease the heat to medium-low or low so that the mixture is gently bubbling. Cook, covered, until the vegetables are tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Uncover, increase the heat to medium high, and continue coking until the stew is reduced and thickened to a good pasta-sauce consistency, about 5 minutes. Add the fish sauce, taste, and add more fish sauce and salt if desired.

3. Eat a cup or two as a vegetarian main course and refrigerate the leftovers in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks, or freeze it in cup-size portions for several months.

Cabbage With Tomatoes, Bulgur and Chickpeas

There's no denying it's a glorious today when you find the ideal recipe for a classic meal. Perfect lasagna, the creamiest mac and cheese, the best beef stew - these all bring me great joy. But, being a constant culinary adventurer, finding a novel (to me) ingredient and/or spice combination might be the best of all.

Although I'm a fan of cabbage, it isn't a vegetable I buy all that often. But if you're trying to be a locavore during a Wisconsin winter, eventually you'll have to pick up a head. Okonomiyaki, made with green or red cabbage, is one of my favorite ways to dine on this crunchy crucifer, but that preparation does not lend itself to freezing leftovers for ready-made meals. Hunting for cabbage recipes led me to a lot of the usual suspects (sauteed, stuffed, etc.), but my desire to get out of my whole wheat pasta/brown rice/quinoa pattern happily lead me to this recipe. Cabbage and tomatoes are not two veggies I automatically think to pair, but they blend beautifully in this gently-cooked pot of heartiness. Perfectly seasoned with balanced smokiness, sweetness, acidity, and freshness, the veggies, bulgur and beans eagerly soak up all the flavor, but their unique textures keep the meal from becoming a homogeneous experience.

Surprisingly filling, this meal can be a vegetarian or vegan main dish, or a great companion to grilled chicken or fish. I'm anticipating the days where the days are long, warm, and sunny and I'll be eating fresh and light, but until Mother Nature releases her icy hold, I'll happily chow down on this warm, comforting meal.

Cabbage With Tomatoes, Bulgur and Chickpeas
adapted from The New York Times
serves 4 to 6

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
Salt to taste
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 medium head green or red cabbage, finely shredded
1 14-ounce can chopped tomatoes with juice
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar, cider vinegar or sherry vinegar
1/4 cup chopped fresh dill
2 cups water
1 cup coarse bulgur
1 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large, heavy lidded skillet or Dutch oven. Add the onion, and cook, stirring often, until tender, about five minutes. Stir in a pinch of salt and the paprika. Cook, stirring, until the onion is thoroughly tender and infused with paprika, three to four minutes.

2. Add the cabbage, and cook, stirring, for three minutes or until it begins to wilt. Stir in the tomatoes, sugar and vinegar, and add salt to taste. Bring to a simmer, lower the heat, cover and simmer 15 minutes until the cabbage is thoroughly tender.

3. Stir in the dill and the water, and bring a to a boil. Add the bulgur and chickpeas. Stir to combine. When the water comes back to a boil, reduce the heat to low and cover. Simmer 10 minutes or until all of the water has been absorbed. Remove from the heat, taste and adjust seasonings, and serve hot or at room temperature.

Black Bean Soup with Toasted Coconut and Pepitas

It seems I've finally come to the end of my concentrated soup base experiment. There's been sweet potato soups and black bean soups galore, concluding with my personal spin on Joe Yonan's black bean soup base. I'll admit that I plagarized from myself a bit, again using rich and crunchy toasted coconut that worked so well with the sweet potato variety, this time swapping out the almonds for a smattering of pumpkin seeds. The creamy, spicy base really pops in contrast to the rich and toasty coconut and pepitas, the flavors and textures contrasting and complementing simultaneously. Although I didn't have any in the fridge to add this time, spinach or other hearty greens would be a nice nutritional boost, as with sweet potato soup. If you can't imagine eating a bowl of soup crusty bread, a roll, or crackers for dunking, I recommend a hearty handful of tortilla chips to get you through this bowl.

Now that I've made my way through all of Joe Yonan's recipes with concentrated soup base, I'm on to tackle his pasta sauce-based recipes, which extend far beyond dressing up some penne. While I'll look back fondly on this last culinary adventure, I'm excited to move on to the next one.

Black Bean Soup with Toasted Coconut and Pumpkin Seeds
serves 1

1 to 1 1/2 cups Spicy Black Bean Soup Base (see below)
Up to 1/2 cup water, or chicken, shrimp, or vegetable stock
Kosher or sea salt

1 tablespoon raw pepitas (pumpkin seeds)

1 tablespoon unsweetened flaked coconut

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the soup base. Whisk in enough stockor water to reach desired consistency. Cook for a few minutes to heat the soup through. Taste and add more salt, if desired. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot while you make the topping.

2. Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pepitas and coconut and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are fragrant and lightly browned, about 4 to 5 minutes.

3. Pour the soup into a serving bowl, top with the pepitas and coconut, and serve warm.
Spicy Black Bean Soup Base
from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
makes 4 to 5 cups

2 dried ancho, guajillo, or New Mexico chiles, or more to taste
1/2 pound dried black beans (1 heaping cup)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 shallot loves or 1/2 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, plus more as needed

1. Tear, break, or use scissors to cut the anchos into small strips or pieces. Combine them with the bean in a large bowl and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Let soak for at least 6 hours or overnight.

2. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery shallots, garlic, cinnamon, and allspice. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook the vegetables slowly until they start to become tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the beans, chiles, their soaking liquid, and enough water to cover the beans by 1 inch. Increase the heat to high to bring the contents to a boil. Then decrease the heat to low so that the liquid is at a bare simmer.

4. Cover and gently cook until the beans are very tender, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the beans. Add the salt, cook for a few more minutes, then let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup, then taste and adjust the salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can puree it in a blender or food processor. If you are using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the soup.

6. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate up to 1 week, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags, pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Curried Coconut Carrot Soup

I've been on a both a curry and coconut kick lately (what a perfect pair!), leaving my freezer still bursting with the fruits of my labor. I tend to cycle through culinary phases, moving on once I've saturated my taste buds. Luckily for me, curry is a such a broad category that I've managed to keep my interest piqued while exploring a variety of curry dishes. Perhaps it's because I enjoy the convenience of this delicious spice blend or because I'm trying to forget I love the frozen north, but it seems scarcely a day has gone by recently without a curry-laced meal hitting my plate.

And it's for good reason, because as this experiment continues to prove, curry is a root vegetable's best friend. Curry spices are warm and inviting, but vibrant and interesting, elevating what could be a plain and heavy dish into an exciting meal. There's no great revelation in this recipe, but the infusion of coconut from the cooking oil and coconut milk adds a subtle extra touch that makes this a little more special than your average curried coconut soup (and there are a lot of recipes out there). Coconut on top of coconut is extra rich and luxurious and allows the soup to stand up to plenty of heat if you like to load it up with hot sauce, as I do (I highly recommend Chipotle Tabasco here). Full-fat coconut milk is a balanced choice, but you can opt for the light variety if you must save calories, or even coconut cream for an over-the-top version.

Curried Coconut Carrot Soup

adapted from The Kitchn
serves 6 to 8

2 tablespoons coconut oil
1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped
6 cups carrots, scrubbed and roughly chopped
1 quart cups vegetable or chicken stock
One 15-ounce can full-fat coconut milk
1 1/2 tablespoons freshly chopped ginger root
1 tablespoon curry powder
1/2 teaspoon chili flakes
Salt and pepper to taste
Yogurt, for garnish (optional)
Cilantro, for garnish (optional)
Hot sauce, for garnish (optional)

1. Heat the coconut oil in a large soup pot and add the onions. Sweat the onions on medium heat for about 7 minutes. Add the carrots and cook for another 5 minutes. Pour in the stock and coconut milk. Add the ginger, curry powder and chili flakes. Put a lid on the pot and cook until the carrots are softened, about 10 or 15 minutes.

2. When carrots are soft, carefully blend the soup in batches in a blender (use a towel to hold the lid down firmly) or use an immersion hand blender and puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper and garnish with yogurt, cilantro, and hot sauce, if desired.

Paneer and Pea Curry With Sweet Potato Hash

For a couple of weeks, I think I ate sweet potatoes every single day. I blame Joe Yonan and his many delicious variations on sweet potato soup for starting this obsession, but the success of Thai sweet potato curry certainly didn't slow it down. In a fine conclusion to that craze, this recipe combines sweet potatoes, curry, and Joe Yonan's recipe expertise, every bite of this as delightful as its culinary predecessors.

Before this recipe, I'd always served my curries with the traditional rice or naan, or even quinoa, but it had never crossed my mind to serve it over sweet potato hash. The hash, with its lovely crispy bits, is the perfect contrast to the tender vegetables and cheese, the sweet potato eagerly soaking up the the rich coconut milk and brilliant spices of the garam masala. I love recipes like this because they perfectly toe the line between fresh and hearty, hitting your taste buds with equal parts soul and stomach satisfying starch, light and bright vegetables, and savory cheese. (As a born and bred Wisconsinite, you're not likely to find me swapping out cheese in a recipe, but if you're vegan or can't find any paneer, extra-firm tofu will make a suitable substitute.) Until Mother Nature decides she's ready to let go of winter and full embrace spring, these cozy bowls are just the ticket to a happy, healthy lady with enough energy to shovel the driveway.

Paneer and Pea Curry With Sweet Potato Hash
adapted from The Washington Post
serves 4

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
5 cloves garlic, chopped
1 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and grated
Sea salt
8 ounces paneer (Indian fresh cheese) or drained extra-firm tofu, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3-inch piece ginger root, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons garam masala (or curry powder)
2 cups fresh or frozen/defrosted peas (about 9 ounces)
1 cup no-salt-added canned crushed or diced tomatoes, with their juices
1/4 cup low-fat coconut milk or cream
Yogurt, sour cream, or creme fraiche, for serving (optional)
Hot sauce, for serving (optional)

1. Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a large skillet over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, add half of the onion and half of the garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until tender. Increase the heat to medium-high and stir in the sweet potatoes. Sprinkle with salt to taste. Cook the sweet potatoes, stirring and scraping them from the pan occasionally, until they are browned in spots and tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat.

2. Sprinkle the paneer pieces with salt. Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a separate large skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the paneer and cook for a few minutes, until deeply browned on one side, then turn the cubes over to brown deeply on the second side.

3. Reduce the heat to medium. Pour in the remaining tablespoon of oil, then stir in the ginger, garam masala and remaining half of the garlic and onions. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are tender and the garam masala has bubbled and bloomed. Stir in the peas, the tomatoes and their juices and the coconut milk. Once the mixture starts bubbling around the edges, taste, and add salt as needed. Cook until the peas are tender and the flavors have melded, about 5 minutes.

4. Divide the sweet potato hash among individual plates. Spoon the paneer-pea curry on top and garnish with yogurt and hot sauce. Serve hot.

Thai-Flavored Green Curry with Sweet Potatoes and Green Beans

When it comes to shortcut ingredients, curry is king. Curry powders and pastes are frugal and efficient ways to create a vibrantly flavored dish with a minimal list of ingredients and time to spare. I've been on an epic sweet potato kick lately, so it wasn't much of a leap to merge the two ideas together in this quick weeknight meal. It's virtually guaranteed that there's curry powder in my cabinet, and even though there's pretty good odds of curry paste (red or green) hanging out my fridge, I'll confess that I don't reach for it quite as often. That tiny jar gets easily lost among the ample library of condiments, but it's always a pleasant surprise to rediscover it.

For me, Indian curries are generally cozy, hearty, comforting meals and Thai curries are light and lively bites that really perk up the palate. During the depths of winter, I need both of these kind of meals. When I want to curl up under a cozy blanket and watch a movie, give me warm and inviting Indian curry. When it's time to refuel and wake up after a long day, I'll happily devour a plate of the Thai variety, which takes less than 30 minutes to make it to the dinner table. Bright lemongrass, rich coconut milk, and spicy ginger and chilies are the perfect antidote to icy winter weather, with extras freezing well for a healthy meal at the ready any time. This vegetarian dish is wonderful simply served over brown rice with a drizzle of hot sauce, but is also a nice complement for salmon, chicken, or pork for carnivores or heartier appetites.

Thai-Flavored Green Curry with Sweet Potatoes and Green Beans

adapted from Bon Appetit

serves 4

1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil
1 medium onion, quartered, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons green Thai curry paste
1 cup canned unsweetened coconut milk
1 large sweet potato, scrubbed, quartered, cut into 1/2” chunks
3 cups trimmed green beans, cut in 2” pieces or one 10-ounce bag frozen green beans
Kosher salt
Thai basil or cilantro, for serving (optional)

Sriracha or other hot sauce, for serving (optional)
Brown rice or naan, for serving (optional)

1. Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion; cook, stirring often, until onion begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Add curry paste; stir for 1 minute. Whisk in coconut milk and 1 cup water. Add sweet potato and cook, uncovered, until sauce thickens to a creamy consistency, about 10 minutes. Stir in green beans, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Season with salt. Turn off heat and garnish with cilantro and/or hot sauce, if using, into the curry. Serve over rice.

Curried Lentil Soup

I'm lazy when it comes to beans, even though they're a staple of my diet. Yes, I could buy an entire pound of dried beans for just a couple dollars, but that requires planning to soak them overnight and setting aside few hours to cook, portion, and freeze a big batch when I'm usually just looking to throw a handful on a salad or in a wrap. I end up biting the bullet and spending the same for a can that I could for an entire pound, all the while thinking it is the less economical and healthy option. But with lentils there's no planning ahead required, as these dried legumes transform from crunchy discs to tender flavor sponges in less than half an hour, the perfect choice for a quick and hearty vegetarian dinner.

Lentils may get a bit of bad wrap for being bland hippie food, but they are an eager canvas for all manner of different flavors like the wonderful sweet and savory spice blend of curry powder. Chickpea puree makes the soup thick and rich with the yogurt adding the perfect creamy, acidic accent. A sprinkling of scallions is just the fresh touch  this soup needs, and, at least for me, it's not quite finished without a little bit of het (I especially like chipotle Tabasco sauce here). Add a salad and piece of naan or pita for a complete dinner or serve over brown rice or quinoa for an even heartier bowl of comfort.

Curried Lentil Soup

adapted from Bon Appetit

serves 4

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, chopped, divided
2 tablespoons (or more) curry powder
1 cup French green lentils
4 1/4 cups (or more) water, divided
1 15- to 16-ounce can chickpeas (garbanzo beans), drained, rinsed
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter
2 green onions, thinly sliced, for serving (optional)
Yogurt, sour cream, or creme fraiche, for serving (optional)

1 lemon, cut into 6 wedges, for serving (optional)

1. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onion and carrot; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook until onion is translucent, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes. Add half of chopped garlic; stir until vegetables are soft but not brown, about 4 minutes longer. Add 2 tablespoons curry powder; stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add lentils and 4 cups water. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Increase heat and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium; simmer until lentils are tender, about 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, puree chickpeas, lemon juice, 1/4 cup water, remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and remaining garlic in processor.

3. Add chickpea puree and butter to lentil soup. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and additional curry powder, if desired. Add water by 1/4 cupfuls to thin to desired consistency. DO AHEAD: soup can be made up to 1 day ahead. Cool, cover, and refrigerate. Rewarm before continuing.

4. Divide soup among bowls. Garnish with thinly sliced green onions and yogurt and a squeeze of fresh lemon, if desired.

Sweet Potato, Spinach, and Coconut Soup with Toasted Coconut and Almonds

Joe Yonan showed me how great sweet potato soup can be with greens and toasted nuts. And now I'm here to tell you it's great with both. I know I can't stop raving about it, but this will be the last you hear from me on this sweet potato soup, since I've enjoyed the basic version, two of Yonan's riffs, and now my own custom creation.

One of the greatest lessons I've relearned from this series of soups is to go beyond infusing the base with flavor and top it with something special as well. The rich and silky foundation, swirled with tender greens, would be delicious on its own, but it's the toasty crunch on top that makes the soup really extraordinary. My culinary obsessions ebb and flow, and because I'm currently occupied with incorporating all manner of coconut products into as many meals as possible, I'm quite pleased with the layered coconut flavor and texture this recipe achieves.

I've enthusiastically enjoyed each of the sweet potato soup variations, but I can't wait to move on Yonan's other concentrated soup base recipe - spicy black bean. After all those sweet and silky bites, I think I'm ready for a little heat.

Sweet Potato, Spinach, and Coconut Soup with Toasted Coconut and Almonds
makes 1 serving

1 cup Sweet Potato Soup Base, defrosted if frozen (see recipe below)
1/4 cup coconut milk (or coconut cream, for an even richer soup)
1/4 cup water or vegetable stock, or additional coconut milk, plus more as needed

2 ounces baby spinach or kale
Kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoons sliced almonds

1 tablespoon unsweetened coconut flakes

1. Pour the soup base into a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the orange juice and water, adding more water if you want a thinner consistency. Cook until the soup is bubbling hot, 3 to 4 minutes. Add spinach and cook until it is wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Taste and add salt if needed. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot.

2. Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the almonds and coconut and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are fragrant and lightly browned, about 4 to 5 minutes.

3. Pour the soup into a serving bowl, top with the almonds and coconut, and serve warm.

Sweet Potato Soup Base
from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
makes about 4 cups

2 (10- to 12-ounce) sweet potatoes
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 celery stalk, thinly sliced
1 small leek, white and pale greens, thinly sliced
2 sprigs thyme
Kosher or sea salt
Pinch of curry powder
2 cups light chicken or vegetable stock, warmed

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.

2. Use a fork or sharp knife to prick the sweet potatoes in several places. Place on a piece of aluminum foil
and bake until the sweet potatoes are tender and can be easily squeezed, 60 to 75 minutes.
(Alternatively, to speed up the process, microwave the pricked sweet potatoes on High for 1 minute,
then carefully transfer to the oven on a piece of foil. Bake until the potatoes are tender, 30 to 45
minutes.)

3. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the carrots,
celery, leek, thyme, and a pinch of salt. Stir to combine well, then decrease the heat to low, cover the
pot, and allow the vegetables to sweat in their own juices until very soft, 10 to 15 minutes. (Take care
not to allow the vegetables to burn.)

4. Scrape into the saucepan the soft flesh from the roasted sweet potatoes, add the curry powder, and stir
to combine, mashing the sweet potato flesh with a spoon. The mixture will be chunky. Stir in the stock
and combine well. Bring the mixture to a boil, then decrease the heat so the mixture gently simmers, and
cook, covered but with the lid slightly ajar, for about 15 minutes to let the flavors meld. Allow the mixture
to cool slightly, then remove and discard the thyme.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup base, which will be very thick. (Alternatively, you
can puree it in a blender or food processor. If using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the
lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the
soup.) Taste and add salt if needed.

6. Let the soup base cool to room temperature. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate
for up to 2 weeks, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags,
pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.