Spicy Tomatillo Soup

With a number of record low high temperatures in Wisconsin this week, you would think my gardens would go on strike. But despite their distinctly summer soul, my tomatillo plants are still generously gifting me with a respectable amount of fruit. It won't be all that long until I start picking up my winter with all its glorious roots, so I certainly don't object to eating up these lighter veggies for a while yet. I'll admit my tastes are drifting towards fall, falling victim to the siren song of all things apple and pumpkin, but my taste buds don't object to that dichotomy.

Despite being located on opposite sides of my yard, my cucumbers also missed the memo about the fall slow down, so I was happy to use up some of those as well. All the veggies keep this soup nice and light with low calorie yogurt creaminess making it gently filling. (For vegans, avocado would make a nice substitution). It can be as spicy as you like, depending on whether you remove the ribs and seeds from the peppers, balanced by the roasty garlic and acidic lime. Add only a little water if you'd like this as as light main course, but it can certainly be stretched to many side dishes if you dilute it further. 

My favorite season might be well on its way, but it's too early to completely turn my back on the light and spicy tastes of summer just yet. Bring it on garden! I'm still ready for you.

Spicy Tomatillo Soup
adapted from Martha Stewart
makes 4 servings

2 pounds tomatillos, hulled and washed
6 garlic cloves
1 to 2 jalapeño or serrano chiles
2 cups diced cucumber
1/2 cup roughly chopped onion
1/2 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1 cup homemade or low-sodium canned vegetable or chicken stock, skimmed of fat
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 cup plain yogurt
Water, to thin (optional)

1. Heat broiler. Place tomatillos, garlic, and serrano chile in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, and roast until tomatillos are soft and browned in spots, about 5 minutes. Turn all items; continue cooking until other side is soft and browned, about 5 minutes more. Remove from heat; let cool slightly.

2. Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack; let cool completely. Peel garlic, seed peppers, if desired, and place in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Add tomatillos and any accumulated juices along with cucumber, onion, cilantro, stock, lime juice, and salt; blend until mixture is smooth. Add yogurt and desired amount of water; process until they are just combined.

3. Transfer to a large bowl or plastic storage container; cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 2 hours. Serve cool, at room temperature, or slightly warm.

Black Bean Soup with Seared Scallops or Shrimp and Green Salsa

The idea of concentrated soup base just isn't getting old, and as I suspected, this series of black bean soups is just as delicious as the sweet potato one. The sweet potato soups may have explored a more diverse spectrum of flavors, but this black bean soup base has lent itself exceptionally to Mexican-inspired dishes. It was first put to good use in a spicy tortilla variation, now topped generously with tender seafood and an exceptionally fresh salsa. The contrast between the the hearty soup and the fresh salsa is striking, and in the best possible way. Each bite of the black bean soup is thick and silky, punctuated perfectly by he crunchy electric green salsa. The heat from the ancho chiles in the base is subtle and smooth, but the salsa brings a bright and assertive heat of its own, tempered just enough by the creamy avocado. This filling bowl is certainly a meal on its own, but a handful of tortilla chips are an ideal final touch, perfect for crumbling over the top or scooping up generous bites.

Black Bean Soup with Seared Scallops or Shrimp and Green Salsa

adpated from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan

serves 1

1 to 1 1/2 cups Spicy Black Bean Soup Base (see below), defrosted if frozen

Up to 1/2 cup water or chicken or vegetable stock

1/2 to 1 serrano or jalapeno chile

1/4 barely ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 small tomatillo, husk removed, rinsed, and cut into 1/2-inch slices

1 very small shallot love, finely chopped

Finely grated zest of 1 lime

Juice of 1/2 lime

1 teaspon agave nectar or honey

3 large sea scallops (about 3 ounces), or 3 ounces large to extra-large shrimp

Kosher or sea salt

1 tablespoon peanut, vegetable, or canola oil

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the soup base, then whisk in enough water or stock to reach your desired consistency. Cook for a few minutes to heat the soup through, then decrease the heat to lovw, cover, and keep it hot while you make your topping.

2. Remove the stem from the serrano and scrape out the ribs and seeds, reserving the seeds. Finely chop half the serrano, then transfer it to a small bowl. Add the avocado, tomatillo, shallot, cilantr, lime zest and juice, and agave nectar; stir to combine. Taste, and if you want the salsa spicier, add some of the serrano seeds and/or the other half of the serrano, finely chopped. 

3. Remove the large side muscle from the scallops. Then, unless they're dry-packed scallops, rinse them and thoroughly pat dry. Season the scallops with salt on each side.

4. Pour the oil into a medium skillet over medium-high heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the scallops or shrimp, making sure they aren't touching each other. Sear until they have a 1/4-inch-deep golden crust, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn them over and sear on the other side for another minute or so. Scallops should still be slightly springy to the touch,and you should be able to tell on the sides that the middle is still slightly translucent. Transfer them to a plate.

5. Ladle the soup into a wide, shallow bowl, top the salsa and then the scallops, and eat.

Spicy Black Bean Soup Base
from Joe Yonan's Serve Yourself
makes 4 to 5 cups

2 dried ancho, guajillo, or New Mexico chiles, or more to taste
1/2 pound dried black beans (1 heaping cup)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 shallot loves or 1/2 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, plus more as needed

1. Tear, break, or use scissors to cut the anchos into small strips or pieces. Combine them with the bean in a large bowl and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Let soak for at least 6 hours or overnight.

2. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery shallots, garlic, cinnamon, and allspice. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook the vegetables slowly until they start to become tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the beans, chiles, their soaking liquid, and enough water to cover the beans by 1 inch. Increase the heat to high to bring the contents to a boil. Then decrease the heat to low so that the liquid is at a bare simmer.

4. Cover and gently cook until the beans are very tender, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the beans. Add the salt, cook for a few more minutes, then let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup, then taste and adjust the salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can puree it in a blender or food processor. If you are using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the soup.

6. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate up to 1 week, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags, pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce

Earlier this week I shared a recipe for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce, so it now it's time to share one that is a bit farther down the cooked scale. In the previous sauce the flavor profile featured the tartness, but in this sauce acidic notes are muted in favor of a deeper, earthier flavor. It doesn't go as far as Roasted Tomatillo Salsa, which is all about the roasted and smoky flavors, but nicely bridges those two extremes. Again we see chiles, cilantro, and onion making an appearance, garlic and stock fortifying the flavor even further. With that usual cast of characters, this is most certainly a pleasing preparation for any tomatillo lover, but the gentler acidic character will appeal to larger audience of non-tomatillo devotees.

Any of the suggestions I made for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce are just as appropriate for this variation, though I heartily endorse its use in the shredded pork chilaquiles pictured above. As I steadily make my way through my freezer cache in order to make room for my impending winter CSA, I am both delighting in the revisiting these summer flavors and sad to see them go. But when you love food and cooking as much as I do, each day has the potential for culinary adventure. Who knows? This concentrated summer flavor just may end up meeting up with hearty winter squash.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce
makes about 2 1/2 to 3 cups
adapted from Authentic Mexican by Rick Bayless

1 pound (11 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and washed OR two 13-ounce cans tomatillos, drained
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 3 chiles serranos or 2 chiles jalapenos), stemmed
5 or 6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1 large garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon lard or vegetable or canola oil
2 cups any low-sodium poultry, meat, or vegetable broth or stock (depending on how the sauce is to be used)
Salt, about 1/2 teaspoon (depending on the saltiness of the broth)

1. The tomatillos. Boil the fresh tomatillos and chiles in salt water to cover until tender, 10 to 15 minutes; drain. Simply drain the canned tomatillos.

2. The puree. Place the tomatillos and chiles (raw ones if using canned tomatillos) in a blender or food processor, along with the coriander, onion, and garlic; if using a blender, stir well. Process until smooth, but still retaining a little texture.

3. The sauce. Heat the lard or oil in a medium-large skillet set over medium-high. When hot enough to make a drop of the puree sizzle sharply, pour it in all at once and stir constantly for 4 or 5 minutes, until darker and thicker. Add the broth, let return to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and simmer until thick enough to coat a spoon, about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce

I finally cleaned out my gardens last week. My final harvest yielded a good amount of eggplant, some jalapenos, poblanos, and mini sweet bell peppers, a couple tomatoes, a surprise 2+ pound zucchini the size of my forearm, and even a few last tomatillos from plants that looked like they were in their death throes, yet were flowering at the same time. Apparently it's not just my mutant plants hanging on for dear life, as I saw a couple vendors still selling a few tomatillos, but I thought I should share a few last tomatillo recipes before all vestiges of this favorite fruit disappear.

If you know me or Mexican cooking, it should be no surprise that I went straight to Rick Bayless for recipes. I can't say enough about how much I love his cookbooks and recipes, so I expect nothing less than  perfection when I try his recipes. And you know what? I'm never disappointed. I've made seemingly countless tomatillo sauces at this point, mostly from his recipes, all with their own unique character. As the name would suggest, this sauce is fresh and vibrant, celebrating all the tart and citrusy notes of the tomatillo. Hot chiles, cilantro, and onion are familiar companions, this classic combination just as delicious with barely cooked tomatillos as deeply roasted ones.

There's no end to the ways this sauce can be used. A few suggestions include a dip for chips, topping for tacos, tostados, and eggs, or sauce for smothered burrito pictured above, though that is certain not an exhaustive list. If you like tomatillos, you're almost guaranteed to love this sauce, relishing in it's spicy, tart flavor brightens up any dish it is added to.

Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce

from Authentic Mexican 20th Anniversary Ed: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico by Rick Bayless

makes about 1 ½ cups

8 ounces (5 or 6 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and washed
OR one 13-ounce can tomatillos, drained
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 2 chiles serranos or 1 chile jalapeno), stemmed
5 or 6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
½ small onion, chopped
Salt, about ½ teaspoon

1. The tomatillos: Boil fresh tomatillos in salted water to cover until barely tender, 8 to 10 minutes; drain. Canned tomatillos only need to be drained.

2. The puree: Place the tomatillos in a blender or food processor. If you want a milder sauce, seed the chile(s), then chop into small bits and add to the tomatillos along with the coriander and chopped onion; if using a blender, stir well. Blend or process to a coarse puree.

3. Finishing the sauce: Scrape into a sauce dish, thin to medium-thick consistency with about ¼ cup water, then season with salt. Let stand for about ½ hour before serving, for the flavors to blend.

Traditional Variations

Chunky Tomatillo Sauce: Prepare the sauce as described, finely chopping the chile, onion and coriander, then adding them to the blended tomatillos. If the chopped onion is rinsed, the sauce will sour less quickly.

All-Raw Tomatillo Relish: Prepare the sauce with chopped raw tomatillos, adding ¼ cup water before blending. Taste for salt and stir in additional water, if needed.

Spicy Avocado-Cucumber Soup

It would figure that the temperatures would become reasonable again when I have my first cold soup to share. I made this at the height of our latest heatwave and it was a godsend to only spend a couple minutes at the stove for an incredibly flavorful dinner, a situation I know we'll encounter many more times as the dog days of summer approach. No-cook meals are an obvious way to beat the heat, but spicy bites are also a great choice for steamy weather, this soup a delicious melding of those two approaches.

Thai curry paste (red or green) is one of my favorite shortcuts to a quick and tasty meal, and one of my few complaints about the original recipe is it doesn't use that workhorse ingredient to full effect. Thai green curry paste is most predominately flavored by fresh lemongrass, tangy galangal (Thai ginger), and spicy green chilies and these bold flavors blend seamlessly with the creamy coconut milk, bright lime, and extra chilies. Cucumber is great base for this flavor melange, providing a light and clean canvas to feature this host of bold tastes. Avocado, with all its delightful creaminess and richness, is what makes this soup a substantial first course or satisfying light meal when accompanied a salad and bread. If you want to eschew any sort of cooking you can skip the toasted coconut garnish, but I think the brief encounter with heat is well worth it. Toasty, crunchy coconut is the perfect contrast to the spicy, creamy base, this easy dramatic accent bringing it all together in a feast for the eyes and stomach.

Spicy Avocado-Cucumber Soup

adapted from Food and Wine

serves 5

1 medium (approx. 12-ounce cucumber)
1 teaspoon Thai green curry paste, or more (to taste)
1 teaspoon sugar or honey
1 teaspoon finely grated lime zest
1 serrano, jalapeno, or Thai chile, seeded and chopped
3/4 cup unsweetened coconut milk
1.5 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Salt
1/4 cup unsweetened coconut flakes, for garnish
Cilantro sprigs, for garnish

1. In a food processor, puree the cucumbers until smooth. Add the avocados, curry paste, sugar, lime zest and chile. Process until blended. Add 3 1/2 cups of water, the coconut milk and lime juice and process until smooth. Transfer the soup to a large bowl and season with salt. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, 15 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a skillet, toast the coconut over low heat, stirring a few times, until lightly browned and crisp, 3 minutes. Let cool.

3. Ladle the soup into small bowls or cups, garnish with the toasted coconut flakes and cilantro sprigs and serve.