Great Dane Inner Warmth Stew

The Great Dane is a Madison institution both for its delicious brews and its fantastic food. Although my tastes tend toward the carnivorous when I'm dining out, it's also a fantastic place to eat vegetarian if you're so inclined. I can't recall a dish of the herbivorous or omnivorous variety that I've been disappointed with. My home cooking trends toward the plant-centered, so I couldn't pass up trying out a recipe from a favorite restaurant when my CSA farm suggested it in one of the latest newsletters.

There's no ingredients in this dish that's unexpected, but they just couldn't make a better family of flavors. This stew is both boldly garlic-y and ginger-y, bought into silky harmony with squash and tomatoes by the rich and creamy peanut butter. Timid taste buds may want to stop there, but I can't resist heating with up with generous amounts of spicy peppers or hot sauce, cooled perfectly by tangy yogurt and fresh cilantro. This is great on its own, over rice, or scooped up by naan or pita, a wonderfully satisfying vegetarian main even for the meat-eating set. Accompanied by a starch, this recipe fills four bellies generously, but can easily be scaled up to feed a ravenous (holiday?) crowd.

Great Dane Inner Warmth Stew
adapted from Crossroads Community Farm
serves 4

¼ cup of olive oil
½ of a medium onion diced
4 tbsp minced garlic
4 tbsp minced ginger
1 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
16 ounce tomato juice or one 8-ounce can tomato sauce plus 8 ounces water
14.5 ounce can diced fire-roasted tomatoes
1-1 ½ pounds squash such as acorn or butternut, peeled and cubed into 2″ pieces
½ cup of peanut butter
Hot peppers, optional
½ bunch of cilantro chopped, plus more for serving
Yogurt, for serving (optional)
Hot sauce, for serving (optional)

1. Sauté onions, garlic, ginger, black pepper and squash in oil until they start to soften.

2. Add tomato juice, tomato strips and salt.Simmer until the squash is tender. Add peanut butterand hot peppers, if using. Mix well and simmer until a thick stew is formed.

3. Serve over steamed rice with additional cilantro, yogurt, and hot sauce, if desired.

Warm Green Bean, Tomato, and Chickpea Salad

My work schedule has been insane lately, leaving me much less time to cook that I'd like, so when I'm able to carve out the time, I really want to make it count. For me, making the most of that limited kitchen time means cranking out a big batch of something healthy, delicious, and versatile. This recipe fits that bill perfectly. Packed with tons of fresh vegetables and herbs, filling beans, and savory cheese, this salad is delicious with a slice of crusty bread, over rice or pasta, as a bed for a juicy salmon fillet or chicken breast, or all on its own. This recipe is very versatile depending on what's available - green beans could be swapped for asparagus, sugar snap peas, or even Brussels sprouts, white beans for the chickpeas, Parmesan for the feta, and almost any fresh herbs for the parsley. My garden might be in its death throes with winter's impending arrival, but there's still enough time to use the scrappy ends of my horticultural endeavors in a delicious meal like this one.

Warm Green Bean, Tomato, and Chickpea Salad
adapted from Martha Stewart
serves 4

1 1/2 pounds green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch length
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for the pan
Coarse salt and ground pepper
3 wide strips lemon zest, cut into thin matchsticks, plus 3 tablespoons lemon juice (from 1 large lemon)
1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved, or 3 medium tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch wedges
1/4 small red onion, sliced
1 can (15.5 ounces) chickpeas, rinsed and drained
2 1/2 ounces feta, crumbled (1/2 cup)
2/3 cup roughly chopped fresh parsley leaves

1. Preheat a large pan over medium heat, add a splash of olive oil, and season generously with salt and pepper. Cook beans, stirring occasionally until browned in spots and just shy of crisp-tender, about 6 to 8 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together lemon juice and oil and season with salt and pepper. Add tomatoes and onion to the pan and cooking continuing until the tomatoes collapse and onions start to soften, about 2 to 4 minutes. Stir in chickpeas and cook until mixture is warm, another minute or two.

3. Remove the pan from heat and toss with the dressing, feta, and parsley. Serve warm or at room temperature, either over cooked grains or with a slice of crusty bread or pita.

Simple Tomato Soup

It's hard to complain about my gardens producing too much, but it can to be challenging to make sure than none of what my moderately green thumb has cultivated goes to waste. But as is so often my move, when I've got a lot of something to use up, I turn to soup, which turns out to be the perfect move as the temperatures dipped sharply into fall this week.

This recipe is an ideal example of simple perfection. Don't get me wrong, I'm all about, fancy ingredients and techniques when they're called for, but sometimes all you need (or have time for) is the simplest of recipes. And fortunately for me, my tomatoes only needed that treatment. There's enough butter to be subtly rich, a touch of tomato paste up the umami factor, and herbs from the garden for a versatile freshness to make this a suitable side for almost anything.

If you do manage to have any of this left over, it freezes beautifully, saving a taste of late summer though the depths of winter. But in the crisp fall air, who can resist the siren song of grilled cheese and tomato soup? I know I can't, especially when I can toss a few slices of apple from a local orchard in with my ooey-goeey Wisconsin cheese.

Simple Tomato Soup
adapted from Food and Wine
makes 4 first course servings

3 tablespoons unsalted butter (or olive oil)
3/4 cup minced sweet onion, such as Vidalia
1 1/2 pounds tomatoes—peeled, seeded and chopped, with juices
1 teaspoon tomato paste
2 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth or stock
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs (basil, cilantro, parsley, etc.)

1. In a large saucepan, melt the butter. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juices, along with the tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add the broth  and season with salt and pepper. Simmer until the tomatoes are broken down, about 15 minutes. Add the fresh herbs and puree the soup until smooth.

Chickpea, Spinach, Feta, and Pepita Tacos

It looks like I'm falling into another Joe Yonan recipe theme - tacos! And why wouldn't I be? Tacos are undeniably fantastic. No matter your dietary restriction or preference, there's a taco out there for you, a peaceful culinary neutral zone where everyone from carnivores to gluten-free vegans can find something delicious to fill their belly.

My own taco preferences run quite the gamut as well. While you won't find me in the drive-through getting Doritos Locos tacos, I might be chowing down on anything from the quick-and-easy crunchy ground beef variety to handmade corn tortillas stuffed with long-cooked carnitas. This meal, however, lies somewhere in between. I took a shortcut and bought my tortillas, and though I didn't spend all day lovingly crafting my taco filling, I spent just enough time prepping and crafting this complex filling to still make it feel like a special treat.

The list of ingredients might seem a little long, but I promise this is just the right amount of complex. The basic combination of onions, beans, garlic, tomatoes, and greens form a healthy, filling, and delicious base, but it's the luxurious finishes - feta, avocado, and pepitas - that make these tacos so special. They're smoky, spicy, salty, fresh, and rich all at the same time, a wonderful variety of flavors and textures incorporated into each messy bite. You might end up with a few delicious juices dripping down your chin, but these tasty tacos are worth every bit of  inconvenience.

Chickpea, Spinach, Feta, and Pepita Tacos
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
serves 1

3 or 4 corn tortillas, preferably homemade
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon ground ancho chile
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 small shallot lobe, thinly sliced or 1/4 cup finely diced onion
1 small tomato, chopped (or substitute 1/2 cup canned crush tomatoes in their juices or even salsa)
1/3 cup cooked chickpeas, preferably homemade, drained and rinsed
1 ounce (about 1 cup) lightly packed spinach, chard, or baby kale leaves, stacked, rolled, and thinly sliced
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 avocado, peeled, seeded, and sliced cut into chunks
1 ounce queso fresco or feta cheese, crumbled
1 tablespoon roasted pumpkin seeds (pepitas; see note)
Hot sauce, such as Tabasco or Tapatio, for serving (optional)
Cilantro, for serving (optional)
1/2 lime, cut into wedges, for serving (optional)

1. Warm the tortillas and wrap them in aluminum foil to keep warm.

2. Pour the oil into a medium skillet over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the ground ancho, stir to combine, and cook until it sizzles and becomes very fragrant about 30 seconds. Add the garlic and shallot and cook until the vegetables start to soften and slightly brown, 4 to 6 minutes.

3. Stir in the tomato and chickpeas and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomato softens and starts to break down. Add the spinach and cook until the spinach wilts, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

4. Lay the tortillas out on a plate and divide the chickpea-spinach mixture among them. Top with the avocado and feta and sprinkle with the pumpkin seeds. Serve with your choice of hot sauce, cilantro, and lime wedges.

Note: To roast the pumpkin seeds, spread them in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake at 375 degrees F for 5 to 7 minutes, until the seeds are very fragrant. Immediately transfer to a plate to stop the cooking and allow the seeds to cook completely. Alternatively, toast them in a skillet over medium heat, tossing frequently.

Spinach Enchiladas

Rick Bayless will forever be my go-to source for Mexican recipes, but I'm starting to think Joe Yonan has some pretty good ideas too. Mexican food doesn't have to be thoroughly authentic to be deeply satisfying, and I definitely have a fondness for both the Americanized and authentic versions. Just as gratifying as your favorite greasy Mexican joint, but without a requirement to be dressed for public dining, this meal is the perfect way to indulge your craving with a hint of authenticity and without settling for the Taco Bell drive-through.

I'm a sucker for anything in a tortilla, from whole wheat roasted veggie wraps, to fish tacos in homemade corn tortillas, to greasy quesadillas and everything in between. This recipe is a great balance of flavor, health, and convenience, using a collection of pantry staples and fresh vegetables to get this gorgeous meal into the oven in less than half an hour. Yogurt makes the quickly cooked vegetables wonderfully creamy with low caloric impact, tucked happily into tender corn tortillas with savory tomato sauce. Dipping the tortillas into the sauce before stuffing and rolling is a simple step that makes all the different in unifying the ingredients, though coating everything in a gentle layer of cheese certainly doesn't hurt. I can't imagine a Mexican dish without cilantro, but if your genetic misfortune means it leaves a soapy taste in your mouth, feel free to leave it out. This meal is plenty hearty as is, but beans, mushrooms, or chicken certainly wouldn't be unwelcome additions to the spinach.

Spinach Enchiladas
adapted from Eat Your Vegetables by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 large shallot lobe, chopped, or 1/4 cup finely chopped white or yellow onion
1 clove garlic, minced or pressed
1/2 small to medium jalapeno, finely chopped (leave seeds and ribs for extra heat)
3 cups lightly packed baby spinach leaves, washed and dried (about 3 ounces)
2 tablespoons whole Greek-style yogurt, sour cream, or creme fraiche
2 (6-inch) corn tortillas
2/3 cup flavorful store-bought or homemade tomato sauce, thinned with 2 to 3 tablespoons of water
1/4 cup grated Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Pour the oil into a small skillet over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the shallot, garlic, and jalapeno and cook until soft but not browned. Add the spinach and stir-fry until it has just wilted, then scrape the mixture into a bowl and stir in the yogurt. Season with salt to taste.

3. Warm the tortillas to make them more pliable : either microwave them for a few seconds or heat them in a dry skillet over medium-high heat for about 10 seconds on each side, just enough to soften them. (If you have a gas stove, you can also put hem directly on the burner grate over the flame for a few seconds on each side.) Immediately wrap them in foil to keep them warm.

4. Pour the thinned-out tomato sauce into the skillet that you sauteed the shallow mixture in and bring it to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat to love so that the sauce is barely simmering. Use tongs to dip the tortillas into the sauce one at a time, leaving them in for a just a few seconds; lift them out, letting the excess sauce drip off, and transfer them to a plate.

5. Spread about a quarter of the sauce on the bottom of a small casserole or individual gratin dish. Lay the softened tortillas on a work surface. Place half the spinach mixture in the center of each one, then roll the tortillas to form enchiladas and arrange them seam side down on top of the layer of sauce in the casserol dish. Spoon the remaining sauce on top and sprinkle with the grated cheese.

6. Bake until the cheese has melted and the sauce is bubbling, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle the enchiladas with the cilantro and eat hot.

Dal Palak

Pretty much every Monday night it is both Meatless Monday and big batch cooking night at my house. Monday might not be the night most people use to be ambitious after work, but I like to use the first night of the week fill up the freezer and get some laundry done while dinner is bubbling away on the stove. Crossing off a long to-do list is my solution to the Monday doldrums, making what would be a drag of a day anyway move a lot more quickly and starting the week on a productive note.

For all the cuisines that make an appearance on my Monday night, I think Indian is the most common. All manner of vegetables and legumes, even many you wouldn't normally expect, take expertly to sweet, savory, and spicy Indian-inspired flavors. They're also ideal candidates for big batch Meatless Monday because they are often healthy, inexpensive, and freeze really well. This trifecta of qualities is what makes a recipe worth investing significant prep and cooking time, provided the outcome is still a delicious dish. And while neither I, or the author of the original, will claim this is the most authentic recipe, there's no denying that this fridge-clearing pile of veggies and melange of spices meet all those criteria perfectly.

For the dinner and lunch the day after, I ate this over brown rice with a dollop of yogurt and dash of hot sauce, but if I get some time to make naan, you can bet this will be one of the first companions it sees. Baked tofu, chicken, or even eggs would also perch perfectly atop this healthy plate if you're feeling especially ravenous.

Dal Palak
adapted from The Kitchn

makes about 8 cups

1 large onion, diced
2 packages (about 16 ounces) white button or baby bella mushrooms, roughly chopped
2 medium-sized red or white potatoes, cubed
1 inch fresh ginger, minced
6 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons coriander
1 Tablespoon garam masala
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 28-ounce can of diced tomatoes
10 ounce bunch of spinach or other hearty green (kale, chard, etc.) cleaned and cut into ribbons
1 cup lentils
3 cups of water or broth
1-2 Tablespoons salt
Chopped scallions, for topping (optional)
Plain yogurt or sour cream, for topping (optional)
Hot sauce, for topping (optional)

1. Heat one tablespoon of olive oil in a large dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat. Add the onions, the mushrooms, and one teaspoon of salt, and cook until the onions are translucent and the mushrooms show spots of golden brown. Add the potatoes and another teaspoon of salt, and cook until the edges are just starting to turn translucent.

2. Clear a space in the middle of the pan and add the ginger, garlic, spices, and one more teaspoon of salt. Cook until the garlic is fragrant (30 seconds), and then stir the spices into the mix. Add the diced tomatoes in their juices, the spinach, and the lentils. Stir to combine everything and then top with three cups of water or broth.

3. Turn the heat to high and bring the soup to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat and let the soup simmer for about 45 minutes until the lentils and potatoes are cooked through. Taste the soup to adjust the seasonings and salt. Stir in half of the chopped scallions, reserving the rest to use as garnish.

4. Serve dal along with rice, naan, or chapatis.

Fall Vegetable Soup with White Beans

While I can't say I'm enjoying these unseasonably cold temperatures, at least this enduring grip of winter means a prolonging of soup weather. I'm working hard to clear the freezer of all the soups and stews and other stick-to-your-bones fare, and these rescued meals are keeping me cozy and fed. The final portion of Stewed Cauliflower, Butternut Squash, and Tomatoes was part of my end-of-winter purge, appropriately transforming into this belly-filling bowl of soup.

The time invested prepping and slowly cooking those hearty vegetables is again clearly returned in this recipe with many elements of intense flavor come together quickly. The stewed vegetables bring a perfect balance of deep flavor and vinegary pop and the hearty helping of beans making it a satisfying meal. A sprinkling of croutons across the top start as a toasty, crispy bits, slowly disintegrating as they soak up the broth and meld into each thick, rich bite. A scant sprinkling of good Parmesan across the top creates a deep savoriness, gingerly bringing the perfect amount of umami to this vegetarian meal. (For the carnivores and hedonists out there, a bit of crumbled bacon would not be unwelcome as well.)

I've almost at the end of my rope when it comes to cold weather eating, but with such a meager time investment, I was absolutely delighted to chow down on this collection of diverse flavors - the perfect antidote to end-of-winter dinner fatigue.

Fall Vegetable Soup with White Beans
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 slice sourdough or rustic whole grain bread or roll, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

Kosher or sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

1 cup Stewed Cauliflower, Butternut Squash, and Tomatoes

3/4 cup chicken or vegetable stock or water, plus more if needed

1/2 cup cooked white beans, preferably homemade, drained and rinsed

Leaves from 3 or 4 sprigs thyme

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F.

2. Put the bread cubes on a small baking sheet, drizzle with the oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Arrange in a single layer and toast in the oven for 5 to 6 minutes, until very crisp and golden brown, watching closely to avoid burning them. Use tongs to turn over the bread cubes and toast for another 5 to 6 minutes to create evenly browned croutons. Remove from the oven.

3. Combine the stewed vegetables and stock in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook until hot, about 5 minutes.

4. Add the white beans and cook for a few minutes until heated through. Add more water if you want a thinner texture. Stir in the thyme. Taste and add salt and pepper, if desired.

5. Pour the soup into a bowl, add the croutons, sprinkle with the cheese, and eat.

Baked Egg in Fall Vegetables

I'm glad that eggs have mostly lost their dubious repuation, because I absolutely adore them. A runny egg can be relied upon to be the crowning jewel of a burger, rice bowl, or pasta dish, but here it is the golden soul of a rich pile of vegetables. All the prep and cooking time might have seemed a bit onerous when preparing a big batch of Stewed Cauliflower, Butternut Squash, and Tomatoes, but once you start to delve into its myriad applications, it becomes clear it was more than worth the effort.

If you enjoy shakshuka or eggs in purgatory, this recipe is also made for you. It steers away from the bold spice used in those recipes, instead punctuating the rich vegetables with a pickled pop of capers. That tender cocoon of vegetables perfectly encases the egg as it gently cooks, the two substances blending together at the edges while transforming into a warm and comforting meal. The Parmesan and herb-kissed bread crumbs are a nice finishing touch, the salty, toasty garnish providing a crispy contrast and last infusion of flavor. It is quite the filling breakfast with just a slice of toast for soaking up each and every last bit, but add a salad on the side and you've got a well-rounded brunch, lunch, or dinner as well.

Baked Egg in Fall Vegetables
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 teaspoon unsalted butter
2/3 cup Stewed Cauliflower, Butternut Squash, and Tomatoes, cold
1 egg
Kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoon dried whole wheat bread crumbs, preferably whole wheat panko
1/2 to 1 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (basil, parsley, etc.) or 1/2 teaspoon dried herbs
1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Coat the inside of a large (8-ounce) ramekin with the butter.

2. Add 1/3 cup of the vegetables to the ramekin and make a well in the center of the vegetables with a teaspoon. Carefully break the egg into the well, season with salt, and top with the remaining 1/3 cup stewed vegetables.

3. Mix the bread crumbs with the herbs and sprinkle evenly on top of the vegetables; sprinkle the cheese on top.

4. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the topping is browned and crisp, and when you use a spoon to gently lift some of the vegetables from the top to uncover the egg, you can see that the white is cooked through but the yolk is still runny.

5. Let cool for a few minutes, then eat with a spoon.

Quick Tomato, White Bean, Sweet Potato, and Kale Soup

When you live in Wisconsin, the first day of the year in the fifties is a major victory. We air out the house even when there's a heavy covering of snow on the ground, drive around with the windows rolled down, and a few brave souls will don shorts for the occasion. Unfortunately, that lasted but one fleeting day this week, but it has definitely given me a metaphorical taste for spring. I'm more than ready to begin to transition to my literal tastes to more spring-like fare, as the days where I'll be craving a massive, piping hot, bowl of soup are happily numbered.

But while I'm still looking out on a yard full of snow, I'm happy to keep indulging that craving. There are plenty of white bean and kale soup recipes available, but my riff on a New York Times recipe is the first I've seen with sweet potatoes, confirming my theory those orange-fleshed beauties are nearly always a great substitution. Creamy white beans and tender kale go just as well with that delicious tuber as its blander and less nutritious cousin, perfectly finished with a sprinkling of salty, nutty Parmesan cheese. Fresh off the stove, there's no doubt it's a wonderful meal, but flavors meld and deepen over a day or two in the fridge, and fare pretty well when you pluck a serving from the freezer days or weeks later.

Quick Tomato, White Bean, Sweet Potato, and Kale Soup

adapted from the New York Times

serves 4 to 6

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 large carrot, chopped
1 stick celery, chopped (optional)
Salt to taste
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 14-ounce can chopped tomatoes, with juice
6 cups water
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon oregano
1 medium sweet potato (about 6 to 8 ounces), scrubbed and diced
A bouquet garni made with a bay leaf, a couple of sprigs each parsley and thyme, and a Parmesan rind (optional – but it does add flavor; use what you have for this)
1/2 pound kale, stemmed, washed thoroughly, and chopped or cut in slivers (4 cups chopped)
1 can white beans, drained and rinsed
Freshly ground pepper
Lemon juice, to taste
Grated Parmesan for serving (optional)

1. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large, heavy soup pot and add the onion, carrot, and celery and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are tender, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the tomatoes and juice from the can, add another pinch of salt and cook, stirring often, for 5 to 10 minutes, until the tomatoes have cooked down slightly.

2. Add the water, tomato paste, oregano, sweet potato, and salt to taste. Bring to a boil, add the bouquet garni, cover and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, until the sweet potatoes are just about tender.

3. Add the kale and simmer another 10 minutes, until the kale and sweet potatoes are tender and the soup is fragrant. Taste, adjust salt, and add pepper and lemon juice to taste. Stir in the beans and heat through for 5 minutes. Serve, sprinkling some Parmesan over each bowl.

Stewed Cauliflower, Butternut Squash, and Tomatoes

Behold the latest in the Joe Yonan make-a-big-batch-and-freeze-the-leftovers recipes! Unlike with the sweet potato and black bean soups, I'm sharing the base recipe straight away. While those soup bases are delicious on their own, they were ultimately designed to be as a canvas for other ingredients. This glorious pot of veggies, however, is a composed dish all on its own. The textures progress from melted tomatoes to soft squash to tender cauliflower, painted with a diverse palate of vinegary capers, spicy red pepper flakes, and umami-packed fish sauce. Fish sauce may set off a few alarm bells for some people, but it only serves to make this dish savory, not fishy, deepening the flavor rather than changing it.

This is a delicious vegetarian main or side dish, both options which I personally enjoyed in short order. For dinner, I layered a hearty scoop over a plate of greens, topping with a grilled salmon fillet. At lunch the following day, I combined the veggies with more greens and quinoa for an equally satisfying vegetarian meal. In addition to a few Joe Yonan recipes in the hopper, I also see a future for these stewed veggies as a pasta sauce, topping for other grains like couscous, rice, and bulgur, and partner for grilled chicken. Perhaps they'll even make their way into a grilled cheese? I wouldn't be a good Wisconsin girl if I didn't find a way for these vegetables to make their acquaintance with the delicious dairy this state has to offer.

Stewed Cauliflower, Butternut Squash, and Tomatoes
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
makes 6 to 7 cups

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 plump cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 small (1 1/2-pound) butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 3 cups)
1 (1-pound) cauliflower, cored and cut into 1-inch florets
1/4 cup small capers, drained
Coarse sea salt or kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or more to taste
1 (28-ounce) can Italian plum tomatoes and their juice, preferably San Marzano, crushed by  hand
1 cup water
2 teaspoons Asian fish sauce, or more to taste (or vegan fish sauce or tamari or soy for a vegetarian/vegan version)

1. Pour the olive oil into a large saucepan set over medium-high heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, scatter in the sliced garlic and let it start sizzling. Stir in the onion slices and cook until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the squash and cauliflower pieces, capers, 1 teaspoon salt, and the red pepper flakes and use tongs to toss it all together.

2. Pour in the crushed tomatoes and their juices. Slosh the water into the can and add; stir well and cover. When the tomato juices are boiling, decrease the heat to medium-low or low so that the mixture is gently bubbling. Cook, covered, until the vegetables are tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Uncover, increase the heat to medium high, and continue coking until the stew is reduced and thickened to a good pasta-sauce consistency, about 5 minutes. Add the fish sauce, taste, and add more fish sauce and salt if desired.

3. Eat a cup or two as a vegetarian main course and refrigerate the leftovers in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks, or freeze it in cup-size portions for several months.

Cabbage With Tomatoes, Bulgur and Chickpeas

There's no denying it's a glorious today when you find the ideal recipe for a classic meal. Perfect lasagna, the creamiest mac and cheese, the best beef stew - these all bring me great joy. But, being a constant culinary adventurer, finding a novel (to me) ingredient and/or spice combination might be the best of all.

Although I'm a fan of cabbage, it isn't a vegetable I buy all that often. But if you're trying to be a locavore during a Wisconsin winter, eventually you'll have to pick up a head. Okonomiyaki, made with green or red cabbage, is one of my favorite ways to dine on this crunchy crucifer, but that preparation does not lend itself to freezing leftovers for ready-made meals. Hunting for cabbage recipes led me to a lot of the usual suspects (sauteed, stuffed, etc.), but my desire to get out of my whole wheat pasta/brown rice/quinoa pattern happily lead me to this recipe. Cabbage and tomatoes are not two veggies I automatically think to pair, but they blend beautifully in this gently-cooked pot of heartiness. Perfectly seasoned with balanced smokiness, sweetness, acidity, and freshness, the veggies, bulgur and beans eagerly soak up all the flavor, but their unique textures keep the meal from becoming a homogeneous experience.

Surprisingly filling, this meal can be a vegetarian or vegan main dish, or a great companion to grilled chicken or fish. I'm anticipating the days where the days are long, warm, and sunny and I'll be eating fresh and light, but until Mother Nature releases her icy hold, I'll happily chow down on this warm, comforting meal.

Cabbage With Tomatoes, Bulgur and Chickpeas
adapted from The New York Times
serves 4 to 6

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
Salt to taste
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 medium head green or red cabbage, finely shredded
1 14-ounce can chopped tomatoes with juice
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar, cider vinegar or sherry vinegar
1/4 cup chopped fresh dill
2 cups water
1 cup coarse bulgur
1 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large, heavy lidded skillet or Dutch oven. Add the onion, and cook, stirring often, until tender, about five minutes. Stir in a pinch of salt and the paprika. Cook, stirring, until the onion is thoroughly tender and infused with paprika, three to four minutes.

2. Add the cabbage, and cook, stirring, for three minutes or until it begins to wilt. Stir in the tomatoes, sugar and vinegar, and add salt to taste. Bring to a simmer, lower the heat, cover and simmer 15 minutes until the cabbage is thoroughly tender.

3. Stir in the dill and the water, and bring a to a boil. Add the bulgur and chickpeas. Stir to combine. When the water comes back to a boil, reduce the heat to low and cover. Simmer 10 minutes or until all of the water has been absorbed. Remove from the heat, taste and adjust seasonings, and serve hot or at room temperature.

Paneer and Pea Curry With Sweet Potato Hash

For a couple of weeks, I think I ate sweet potatoes every single day. I blame Joe Yonan and his many delicious variations on sweet potato soup for starting this obsession, but the success of Thai sweet potato curry certainly didn't slow it down. In a fine conclusion to that craze, this recipe combines sweet potatoes, curry, and Joe Yonan's recipe expertise, every bite of this as delightful as its culinary predecessors.

Before this recipe, I'd always served my curries with the traditional rice or naan, or even quinoa, but it had never crossed my mind to serve it over sweet potato hash. The hash, with its lovely crispy bits, is the perfect contrast to the tender vegetables and cheese, the sweet potato eagerly soaking up the the rich coconut milk and brilliant spices of the garam masala. I love recipes like this because they perfectly toe the line between fresh and hearty, hitting your taste buds with equal parts soul and stomach satisfying starch, light and bright vegetables, and savory cheese. (As a born and bred Wisconsinite, you're not likely to find me swapping out cheese in a recipe, but if you're vegan or can't find any paneer, extra-firm tofu will make a suitable substitute.) Until Mother Nature decides she's ready to let go of winter and full embrace spring, these cozy bowls are just the ticket to a happy, healthy lady with enough energy to shovel the driveway.

Paneer and Pea Curry With Sweet Potato Hash
adapted from The Washington Post
serves 4

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
5 cloves garlic, chopped
1 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and grated
Sea salt
8 ounces paneer (Indian fresh cheese) or drained extra-firm tofu, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3-inch piece ginger root, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons garam masala (or curry powder)
2 cups fresh or frozen/defrosted peas (about 9 ounces)
1 cup no-salt-added canned crushed or diced tomatoes, with their juices
1/4 cup low-fat coconut milk or cream
Yogurt, sour cream, or creme fraiche, for serving (optional)
Hot sauce, for serving (optional)

1. Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a large skillet over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, add half of the onion and half of the garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until tender. Increase the heat to medium-high and stir in the sweet potatoes. Sprinkle with salt to taste. Cook the sweet potatoes, stirring and scraping them from the pan occasionally, until they are browned in spots and tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat.

2. Sprinkle the paneer pieces with salt. Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a separate large skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the paneer and cook for a few minutes, until deeply browned on one side, then turn the cubes over to brown deeply on the second side.

3. Reduce the heat to medium. Pour in the remaining tablespoon of oil, then stir in the ginger, garam masala and remaining half of the garlic and onions. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are tender and the garam masala has bubbled and bloomed. Stir in the peas, the tomatoes and their juices and the coconut milk. Once the mixture starts bubbling around the edges, taste, and add salt as needed. Cook until the peas are tender and the flavors have melded, about 5 minutes.

4. Divide the sweet potato hash among individual plates. Spoon the paneer-pea curry on top and garnish with yogurt and hot sauce. Serve hot.

Black Bean Tortilla Soup with Shrimp and Corn

As promised, as soon as I was finished with my batch of sweet potato soup base, I immediately moved on to the black bean variety. The culinary memories of chorizo, chickpeas, and kale, orange and smoky pecans, and spinach, coconut, and almonds, reside fondly in my memory, but I was excited to move on to this new recipe. Although it was a transition out of my recent sweet potato obsession, this was just the kick my tastebuds had been craving.

Sweet potato soup was all silky comfort, but this bowl of creaminess comes with plenty of heat. Ancho chiles infuse the base with sweetness and spiciness, but neither the flavor or the heat of the chiles overpowers the soup. The base is delicious on its own, with a simple swirl of creme fraiche, or loaded up with all the fixings of good chili, but this elaborate concoction is even more suburb. The light shrimp, tomatoes, and corn are the perfect fresh addition to the hearty black beans, sour cream adds a subtle, luxurious touch with the crispy tortilla strips providing the perfect textural contrast. Toeing the line between hearty and light, this complete meal in a bowl is a beautiful transition between winter and spring.

Black Bean Tortilla Soup with Shrimp and Corn
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 to 1 1/2 cups Spicy Black Bean Soup Base (see below)
Up to 1/2 cup corn broth, water, or chicken, shrimp, or vegetable stock
Kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 jalapeno or serrano chile
1 or 2 corn tortillas, preferably homemade
Kernels from one ear fresh corn (about 3/4 cup), or 1/2 cup frozen corn
2 to 3 ounces very small shrimp or medium to large shrimp, cut into small pieces
8 small cherry tomatoes, quartered, or 2 plum tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch pieces or 1/2 cup diced tomatoes
1/2 lime
2 tablespoons sour cream, creme fraiche, or yogurt
1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the soup base. Whisk in enough broth, stock, or water to reach desired consistency. Cook for a few minutes to heat the soup through. Taste and add more salt, if desired. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot while you make the topping.

2. Pour half of the oil into a medium skillet over medium heat. Remove the stem from the from the jalapeno and scrap out the ribs and seeds, reserving the seeds. Finely chop the chile and add it to the skillet. Cut the tortilla in half and cut into slices. Add to the skillet and saute until the tortillas are crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer tortillas and chile to a serving bowl.

3. Add the remaining oil to the pan, then add the corn, shrimp, and tomatoes to the skillet. Season with salt and saute just until the shrimp are opaque and the corn turns bright yellow 1 to 4 minutes, depending o the size of the shrimp.

4. Transfer the corn mixture to the serving bowl and pour in the black bean soup base. Squeeze the lime half over the top, spoon on sour cream, sprinkle with crisped tortillas, chile, and cilantro, and eat.

Spicy Black Bean Soup Base
from Joe Yonan's Serve Yourself
makes 4 to 5 cups

2 dried ancho, guajillo, or New Mexico chiles, or more to taste
1/2 pound dried black beans (1 heaping cup)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 shallot loves or 1/2 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, plus more as needed

1. Tear, break, or use scissors to cut the anchos into small strips or pieces. Combine them with the bean in a large bowl and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Let soak for at least 6 hours or overnight.

2. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery shallots, garlic, cinnamon, and allspice. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook the vegetables slowly until they start to become tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the beans, chiles, their soaking liquid, and enough water to cover the beans by 1 inch. Increase the heat to high to bring the contents to a boil. Then decrease the heat to low so that the liquid is at a bare simmer.

4. Cover and gently cook until the beans are very tender, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the beans. Add the salt, cook for a few more minutes, then let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup, then taste and adjust the salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can puree it in a blender or food processor. If you are using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the soup.

6. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate up to 1 week, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags, pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Cheesy Greens and Rice Gratin

Having grown up in the upper Midwest, I've been around more than my fair share of casseroles. From time to time that dense and hearty fare is exactly what I'm craving, but for your average meal I'm not looking to eat something that will require a nap immediately after. But who can argue with the glorious collaboration of cheese, rice, and veggies? That's where my grown-up tastes turn to the infinitely customizable, eternally delicious, gratin.

Every kitchen should have at least one variety of grain, spice mix, sauce, nuts or seeds, greens, and cheese, so there's sure to be some iteration of this recipe in easy reach. Have leftover pasta sauce or salsa instead of tomatoes? Absolutely! Cooked quinoa or barley instead of rice? Go for it! Old Bay instead of Za'atar? Sharp cheddar or Parmesan instead of Gruyere? There's no shortage of tasty combinations so go nuts with whatever you have in the fridge and cabinets and find your favorite. My first tasting of this gratin brought together brown rice, salsa, kale, pepitas, and cheddar cheese for a Mexican/Southwestern slant on the recipe. Marinara, pine nuts, and Parmesan give this a nice Italian twist, and orzo and feta cheese could take it in a Greek direction, particularly if you tuck some olives in there as well.

Cheesy Greens and Rice Gratin
adapted from Eat Your Vegetables by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon Za'atar (or other favorite spice blend)
1/4 cup canned crushed tomatoes in their liquid, or 2 chopped plum tomatoes, or 1/4 to 1/2 cup prepared tomato sauce or salsa
3/4 cup cooked brown rice
2 tablespoons toasted pistachios or pine nuts
3/4 cup cooked hearty greens (spinach, kale, Swiss chard, etc.) or 2 cups chopped fresh leaves
1/4 cup shredded Taleggio or Gruyere, or other good melting cheese

1. Preheat the oven broiler, and adjust the rack to be several inches from the flame.

2. Pour the olive oil into a small cast-iron or other oven/broiler-proof skillet over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the garlic and cook until it starts to become tender. Sprinkle in the za'atar and cook for just a few seconds, letting the spices bubble and bloom. If using fresh greens, add them now. Stir in tomatoes or sauce and rice, taste, and as salt and pepper as needed. Cook for a few minutes to let the flavors combine, then turn off the heat. Stir in the nuts or seeds.

3. Pack the rice mixture down even with a spatula and top with cooked greens (if not using fresh), leaving a ring of rice exposed. Sprinkle with the cheese. Slide the skillet under the broiler and cook until the chees is melted, bubbly, and slightly browned, 3 or 4 minutes, then remove. Let cool slightly, but eat it hot.

Black Bean, Sweet Potato and Quinoa Chili

If I had one complaint about my wonderful winter CSA from Crossroads Community Farm, it would be that it leads me to eat way more potatoes than I ordinarily would. I can't bear the thought of wasting any of that delicious organic produce, so I cook up every one an but after I'm done, I find myself craving sweet potatoes, which had a much more modest presence in my CSA box. Even barring any nutritional considerations, I'll pick the sweet potato option over the regular potato option any day.

A hearty bowl of Black Bean, Quinoa, and Spinach Stew on New Year's Day definitely whetted my appetite for the black bean and quinoa pairing and I can't turn down the perfect combination of black beans and sweet potatoes. This chili is the perfect blending of those happy pairs, with all of the spicy, hearty goodness of the traditional bean and meat varieties, and the added nutrition and flavor of sweet potatoes and quinoa. Chili con carne it's not, but this vegetarian delight will fill your belly just as well, especially when served with a hearty piece of corn bread. To save some of this satisfying meal for a rainy (or should I say snowy?) day, portion and store any leftovers in the freezer.

Black Bean, Sweet Potato and Quinoa Chili
adapted from The Kitchn
serves 4-6

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, chopped
5 garlic cloves, chopped
1 1 /2 tablespoons chili powder
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 14.5-ounce can fire-roasted tomatoes
1 chipotle chile from canned chipotle chiles in adobo, minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 teaspoons kosher salt + more to taste
1 1 /2 cups sweet potatoes (2-3 small), cut into 1 /2-inch cubes
1 /4 cup quinoa, rinsed and drained
2 cups vegetable or chicken broth/stock or water
2 14.5-ounce cans low-sodium black beans, rinsed and drained
Sour cream or yogurt, to top (optional)
Shredded cheddar cheese, to top (optional)
Green onions, chopped, to top (optional)
Fresh cilantro, chopped, to top (optional)

1. Heat the oil in heavy large pot ov er medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and beginning to brown, 6-7 minutes. Add garlic, chili powder, and coriander and stir. Cook together for 1 minute.

2. Stir in the tomatoes with their juices, beans, chipotle pepper, oregano, sweet potatoes, quinoa, and broth and bring mixture to a boil. Place the pot's lid back on slightly ajar and allow to simmer on low heat until the beans are soft and the sweet potatoes and quinoa are just cooked through, adding more water or broth as necessary if the chili becomes too thick. Just before the quinoa and sweet potatoes are done, add beans and stir to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve hot with your choice of toppings.

Parsley Tabbouleh with Chickpeas

Have I convinced you to pick up some bulgur yet? If not, this recipe may provide some additional inspiration. Everyone who has been to a Mediterranean restaurant is surely familiar with tabbouleh, a light and fresh combination of bulgur and parsley that is a staple of the cuisine. Though a grain-heavy version may be encountered much more frequently these days, the traditional recipe is more of a parsley dish than a bulgur dish, bursting with copious amounts of fresh herbs. Tabbouleh typically appears as part of a meze, one of many tastes in a generous spread, but I've turned it into a light main dish with the addition of chickpeas and feta. Traditional ingredients still form the backbone of this salad, so you won't be missing any of the classic flavors with the transition from side to main dish. Fresh and light flavors dominate with generous amounts of fresh veggies and herbs, but the chewy bites of bulgur, salty tastes of feta, and hearty nibbles of chickpeas keep each bite interesting and varied.

I kept all the elements fairly classic, but using quinoa in lieu of the bulgur is great way to start experimenting with the traditional recipe. This is most obviously served in the summer when steamy temperatures demand light meals, but also a nice way to break out of the cold weather meat and potatoes rut it's all too easy to get stuck in.

Parsley Tabbouleh with Chickpeas

adapted from Eating Well

serves 4

2 cup water
1 cup bulgur
1/4 cup lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
2 cups finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, (about 2 bunches)
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
2 tomatoes, diced
1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
4 scallions, thinly sliced

1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
4 ounces crumbled feta (optional)

1. Combine water and bulgur in a small saucepan and cook according to package directions. If any water remains, drain bulgur in a fine-mesh sieve. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool for 15 minutes.

2. Combine lemon juice, oil, garlic, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Add parsley, mint, tomatoes, cucumber, scallions, and chickpeas to the bulgur. Add the dressing and feta, if using, and toss ingredients together. Serve at room temperature or chill for at least 1 hour to serve cold.

Indian-Spiced Eggplant & Cauliflower Stew

The more I experiment with my eggplant crop, the more I'm coming to appreciate what a versatile canvas it can be. Baba ganoush and eggplant Parmesan are two of the most iconic dishes for this gorgeous member of the nightshade family (ratatouille and moussaka being others), but I have to say I'm especially pleased with how it fares with the vibrant spices of Indian cuisine.

Curry powder and garam masala form the flavor backbone of this dish and their varieties myriad and varied, so choose ones that you really love for this recipe. Cauliflower and potato curry was the first one I ever prepared (and loved!), earning cauliflower an eternal welcome in any curry I make; it takes a turn as an expert companion to eggplant here. Onions, tomatoes, and chickpeas round out a typical cast of characters, all of those ingredients taking up classic Indian spices with great aplomb. The creamy swirl of yogurt or sour cream makes the tapestry of flavors especially vibrant, so barring veganism or lactose intolerance, I strongly encourage that finishing touch.

Though Indian food comes from a land that generally dare not dream of freezing temperatures, those flavors are just as delightful on chilly Wisconsin fall day as a searing one in Delhi. Flavorful bites call up images of warm and far away lands, while still linked to milder climes by familiar comforting spices of fall like cinnamon and cardamom.

Indian-Spiced Eggplant and Cauliflower Stew
adapted from Eating Well
serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons curry powder
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 large onion, sliced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1-pound eggplant, cut into 1-inch chunks
8 ounces small cauliflower florets
1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes
1 15-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup plain yogurt or sour cream, (optional)

Pita, rice, or naan, for serving (option)

1. Heat a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add curry powder, garam masala and mustard seeds and toast, stirring, until the spices begin to darken, about 1 minute. Transfer to a small bowl.

2. Add oil, onion, garlic, ginger and salt to the pot and cook, stirring, until softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in eggplant, cauliflower, tomatoes, chickpeas, water and the reserved spices. Bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Top each serving with a dollop of yogurt or sour cream, if desired, and serve with pita, rice, or naan, if desired.

Roasted Chile Relleno with Avocado-Chipotle Sauce

Whether in their fresh or dried (ancho) form, poblanos are my favorite pepper, and consequently I have a real weakness for chile rellenos. It's one of my favorite things to order when I'm out for Mexican food, and I'll happily chow down on both the Americanized and authentic versions. Despite a deep love for this dish, I don't have the ambition or time to bread and deep-fry chile rellenos at home. But a roasted version? That I can handle.

Restaurant chile rellenos are often just stuffed with wonderfully indulgent amounts of cheese, but I love the added veggie, beans, and grains in the homemade version that create a much more varied collection of flavors and textures. Though it lacks a deep-fried breading, the luxurious avocado sauce and toasty pepitas add their own unique richness and crunchiness that are still amply satisfying. A healthier and less labor-intensive version of the Pueblan classic, this dish is a more-than-fitting use of that state's namesake pepper to fulfill your spicy, cheesy cravings.

Roasted Chile Relleno with Avocado-Chipotle Sauce
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 large or 2 to 3 small to medium poblano peppers

For the Filling:
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon ground ancho chile
1 medium shallot lobe, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
4 or 5 Swiss chard leaves, stacked, rolled, and thinly sliced (or spinach or kale)
1 plum or other small tomato, cored, seeded, and chopped
¼ cup cooked black or pinto beans, preferably homemade, rinsed and drained
¼ cup cooked brown or white rice, farro, or quinoa
1 ounce Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese, cut into small chunks or grated
Kosher or sea salt

For the Sauce:
½ avocado, pitted
2 tablespoons low-fat yogurt or sour cream
¼ teaspoon adobo sauce (from a can of chipotle in adobo)
Juice of ½ lime
2 to 3 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon roasted shelled pumpkin seeds (pepitas)

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2. Blacken the skin of the poblano pepper by turning a gas burner to high and setting the poblano right on the grate, using tongs to turn it periodically until it is charred all over. (If you don’t have a gas stove, preheat your oven broiler and set the poblano on a pan about 4 to 5 inches from the broiler element or flame and broil for 5 to 6 minutes, turning periodically until it is charred all over.) Transfer the pepper to a stainless steel or glass bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let steam as it cools.

3. While the poblano is cooling, make the filling. Pour the olive oil into a medium skillet over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, sprinkle in the ground ancho chile and cook for about 30 seconds, until it foams and releases its aroma. Add the shallot and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables start to soften, 2 to 4 minutes. Stir in the Swiss chard and tomato and cook until the chard wilts and the tomato softens, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl. Stir in the black beans, rice, and cheese, and season with salt to taste. Let cool.

4. When the poblano is cool enough to handle, gently rub off the blackened skin, being careful not to tear the flesh open. Use a sharp paring knife to cut a slit on one side of the poblano, starting near the stem and cutting about halfway down the side. Carefully reach in and remove the seeds, trying not to enlarge the opening if possible. Use your hands to carefully stuff the filling into the poblano, getting it as full as possible. Carefully transfer the stuffed poblano to a baking sheet, cut side up. Don’t worry if the filling is exposed.

5. Roast the poblano for 15 to 20 minutes, until the filling is bubbling and the cheese is melted. Remove from oven and let cool slightly.

6. While the poblano is roasting, make the sauce. Scoop the avocado flesh into a small bowl and use a fork to thoroughly mash it. Whisk in the yogurt, adobo sauce, and lime juice, adding more water if you want the sauce to be thinner. Pour enough sauce onto a dinner plate to evenly coat the botom.

7. Transfer the poblano to the plate and spoon remaining sauce on top, sprinkle with the pumpkin seeds, and eat.

Note: To roast the pumpkin seeds, spread them in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake at 375°F for 5 to 7 minutes, until the seeds are very fragrant. Immediately transfer to a plate to stop the cooking and allow the seeds to cool completely.

Classic Beef Chili for Two

Chili is one of the reasons to get excited about fall. On my list of culinary goals, making that first batch of chili lies shortly after getting my hands on as many pumpkin-based treats as possible. And if the season's motivation wasn't enough, this recipe fit perfectly into the theme I chose for this year's football snacks - matching the snack (and beer, when possible) to the city/region of the Packer's opponent. In week two, the Packers played the Washington Redskins, with DC being home to the famous Ben's Chili Bowl. (Yes, I considered making chili to use in a half-smoke, put opted for a bowl of chili with some leftover Zucchini Corn Muffins instead.) Leftovers were also somewhat inauthentically repurposed Cincinnati Chili for the week 3 game, and the bit remaining in the freezer just may turn into Coney Dogs for the Lions game on October 6th (despite their origins, Coney Dogs have become a signature dish of Detroit).

I definitely won't argue that chili is a dish typically suited to big batches, but when you don't have a lot of people to feed and love to tweak and experiment like I do, a recipe for two is just perfect. It's often not straightforward to adapt a big batch recipe down to a modest meal, but when the source is America's Test Kitchen, there's no reason to worry that the scaled recipe is a pale comparison to the original. This recipe has the perfect level of spiciness, bold enough to excite the taste buds, but not so assertive that the smoky cumin, coriander, and garlic disappear. There's a nice balance between the meat, beans, and veggies - the chili is stick-to-your-ribs hearty without being a total gut-bomb, satisfying the heartiest of appetites without scaring away those who aren't total carnivores. Though ATK's specialty is precise and thorough perfection of recipes, I can already see myself trying some of my own versions - poblanos, black beans, and pork, perhaps? Green chilies, white beans, and chicken? Though perfection in its own right, like any good recipe, this one inspires further culinary creativity.

Classic Beef Chili
adapted from America's Test Kitchen Cooking for Two (2010)
serves 2

1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil
1 small white or yellow onion, minced
1/2 red or orange bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
3 garlic cloves, minced or pressed through a garlicpress
1 1/2 tablespoons chili powder (I love anco)
1 teaspoon ground cumin
3/4 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Salt
8 ounces 85 percent lean ground beef
3/4 cup cooked red kidney or pinto beans
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes
1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce

1. Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion, bell pepper, garlic, chili powder, cumin, coriander, pepper flakes, oregano, cayenne, and 1/4 teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables begin to soften and the spices are fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes.

2. Stir in the beef and cook, breaking up the meet with a wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 2 minutes.

3. Stir in the beans, diced tomatoes with their juice, and tomato sauce, and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes.

4. Uncover and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until the beef is tender and the chili is dark, rich, and slightly thickened, about 15 minutes longer. (If at any time the chili begins to stick to the bottom of the pot, stir in 1/4 cup water). season with salt to taste and serve.

Zucchini Rice Gratin

I've been slowly publishing the many zucchini recipes I tried this season because it seemed like it would never end. Much to my relief, my zucchini plant seems to finally be slowing down. After spending several hours Labor Day weekend I'm finally caught up and have a lot of recipes to share before the zucchini growing season is over entirely. In addition to my zucchini, I have a couple of heirloom tomatoes plants that are putting out a fine, though modest crop, and this recipe was the perfect meal to represent my garden's bounty.

The list of ingredients here is short, the flavor relying on the quality of the produce and the Parmesan cheese -that green can of Kraft and supermarket tomatoes just won't cut it here. It doesn't get more fresh and local than the backyard and while I could lay down some serious money for imported Parmigiano-Reggiano, I opt for Hook's Parmesan. It's surprising how just that modest amount of cheese, a couple of eggs, and some olive oil make this feel exceptionally rich, the rice adding just enough to make this as a light meal for four with a side salad and slice of crusty bread. It may have unofficially turned to fall with the passing of Labor Day, but I'm anxious to hold on to these tastes of summer just a little bit longer.

Zucchini Rice Gratin
adapted from Gourmet, March 2008
makes 4 to 6 (side dish) servings

1 cup prepared brown rice
1 1/2 pounds zucchini (about 3 medium), sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
4 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1/2 pound tomatoes, sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
1 medium onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 dried thyme
1/2 cup grated Parmesan or Parmigiano-Reggiano, divided

1. Preheat oven to 450°F with racks in upper and lower thirds.

2. Toss zucchini with 1 tablespoon oil and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a shallow baking pan. Toss tomatoes with 1/2 tablespoon oil and 1/4 teaspoon salt in another baking pan.

3. Roast zucchini in upper third of oven and tomatoes in lower third, turning vegetables once halfway through roasting, until tender and light golden, about 10 minutes for tomatoes; 20 minutes for zucchini. Leave oven on.

4. Meanwhile, cook onion and garlic with 1/2 teaspoon salt in 2 tablespoons oil in a large heavy skillet, covered, over low heat, stirring occasionally, until very tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

5. Stir together onion mixture, wild rice, eggs, thyme, 1/4 cup cheese, 1 tablespoon oil, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Spread half of rice mixture in a shallow 2-quart baking dish, then top with half of zucchini. Spread remaining rice mixture over zucchini, then top with remaining zucchini. Top with tomatoes and sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup cheese.

6. Bake in upper third of oven until set and golden brown, about 20 minutes.