Great Dane Inner Warmth Stew

The Great Dane is a Madison institution both for its delicious brews and its fantastic food. Although my tastes tend toward the carnivorous when I'm dining out, it's also a fantastic place to eat vegetarian if you're so inclined. I can't recall a dish of the herbivorous or omnivorous variety that I've been disappointed with. My home cooking trends toward the plant-centered, so I couldn't pass up trying out a recipe from a favorite restaurant when my CSA farm suggested it in one of the latest newsletters.

There's no ingredients in this dish that's unexpected, but they just couldn't make a better family of flavors. This stew is both boldly garlic-y and ginger-y, bought into silky harmony with squash and tomatoes by the rich and creamy peanut butter. Timid taste buds may want to stop there, but I can't resist heating with up with generous amounts of spicy peppers or hot sauce, cooled perfectly by tangy yogurt and fresh cilantro. This is great on its own, over rice, or scooped up by naan or pita, a wonderfully satisfying vegetarian main even for the meat-eating set. Accompanied by a starch, this recipe fills four bellies generously, but can easily be scaled up to feed a ravenous (holiday?) crowd.

Great Dane Inner Warmth Stew
adapted from Crossroads Community Farm
serves 4

¼ cup of olive oil
½ of a medium onion diced
4 tbsp minced garlic
4 tbsp minced ginger
1 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
16 ounce tomato juice or one 8-ounce can tomato sauce plus 8 ounces water
14.5 ounce can diced fire-roasted tomatoes
1-1 ½ pounds squash such as acorn or butternut, peeled and cubed into 2″ pieces
½ cup of peanut butter
Hot peppers, optional
½ bunch of cilantro chopped, plus more for serving
Yogurt, for serving (optional)
Hot sauce, for serving (optional)

1. Sauté onions, garlic, ginger, black pepper and squash in oil until they start to soften.

2. Add tomato juice, tomato strips and salt.Simmer until the squash is tender. Add peanut butterand hot peppers, if using. Mix well and simmer until a thick stew is formed.

3. Serve over steamed rice with additional cilantro, yogurt, and hot sauce, if desired.

Spicy Tomatillo Soup

With a number of record low high temperatures in Wisconsin this week, you would think my gardens would go on strike. But despite their distinctly summer soul, my tomatillo plants are still generously gifting me with a respectable amount of fruit. It won't be all that long until I start picking up my winter with all its glorious roots, so I certainly don't object to eating up these lighter veggies for a while yet. I'll admit my tastes are drifting towards fall, falling victim to the siren song of all things apple and pumpkin, but my taste buds don't object to that dichotomy.

Despite being located on opposite sides of my yard, my cucumbers also missed the memo about the fall slow down, so I was happy to use up some of those as well. All the veggies keep this soup nice and light with low calorie yogurt creaminess making it gently filling. (For vegans, avocado would make a nice substitution). It can be as spicy as you like, depending on whether you remove the ribs and seeds from the peppers, balanced by the roasty garlic and acidic lime. Add only a little water if you'd like this as as light main course, but it can certainly be stretched to many side dishes if you dilute it further. 

My favorite season might be well on its way, but it's too early to completely turn my back on the light and spicy tastes of summer just yet. Bring it on garden! I'm still ready for you.

Spicy Tomatillo Soup
adapted from Martha Stewart
makes 4 servings

2 pounds tomatillos, hulled and washed
6 garlic cloves
1 to 2 jalapeño or serrano chiles
2 cups diced cucumber
1/2 cup roughly chopped onion
1/2 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1 cup homemade or low-sodium canned vegetable or chicken stock, skimmed of fat
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 cup plain yogurt
Water, to thin (optional)

1. Heat broiler. Place tomatillos, garlic, and serrano chile in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, and roast until tomatillos are soft and browned in spots, about 5 minutes. Turn all items; continue cooking until other side is soft and browned, about 5 minutes more. Remove from heat; let cool slightly.

2. Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack; let cool completely. Peel garlic, seed peppers, if desired, and place in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Add tomatillos and any accumulated juices along with cucumber, onion, cilantro, stock, lime juice, and salt; blend until mixture is smooth. Add yogurt and desired amount of water; process until they are just combined.

3. Transfer to a large bowl or plastic storage container; cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 2 hours. Serve cool, at room temperature, or slightly warm.

Tacos with Mushrooms, Kale, and Chile-Caramelized Onions

Remember that new taco obsession I predicted? It has most definitely come to pass, yet another recipe theme from Joe Yonan I can't resist exploring. There's a long list of foods that become a tasty meal when wrapped up in tortilla with some cheese and hot sauce, but all the subtle additions that make these tacos much more than mushrooms, greens, and cheese.

They may share some spices and salty cheese with their predecessors, but these tacos are a different and delicious beast. The onions are infused with a familiar spicy smokiness, but the sprinkling of sugar amps up the caramelization and fuses all the flavors quickly. Mushrooms, while not terribly interesting on their own, are the perfect flavor sponges for vibrant spices used here, while also picking up a brown crust of their own along the way. The greens add a nice bit of nutrition, color, and freshness, completed nicely by the salty cheese and final dash of heat over the top.

Out of corn tortillas or not in the mood for tacos? This hearty, spicy, and earthy concoction could also be served over rice or other grains, happily wrapped up in a burrito, or topped with some runny eggs. No matter what you decide to do with this vegetarian taco filling, it won't leave your taste buds or belly disappointed.

Tacos with Mushrooms, Kale, and Chile-Caramelized Onions
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon ground ancho, chipotle, or other chile

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 small red onion, thinly sliced (about 1 1/2 cups)

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

3 or 4 corn tortillas, preferably homemade

6 ounces oyster, cremini, hen of the woods, or other meaty mushrooms, cut into large pieces
1/2 cup frozen or 1 to 2 cups fresh baby kale or spinach

1 ounce queso fresco, soft goat cheese, or feta cheese, crumbled

Salsa or hot sauce of choice, for serving

1. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it shimmers, sprinkle in the ground ancho, cumin and cinnamon and cook until the spices sizzle and are very fragrant, about 30 seconds. Toss in the onion slices, stirring to break them apart. Cook until the onion starts to soften, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic, salt, and sugar. Decrease the heat to low and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft, about 10 minutes.

2. While the onions are cooking, warm the tortillas and wrap them in aluminum foil to keep warm.

3. Increase the heat under the skillet to medium-high, add the mushrooms, toss to combine, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms exude their juices and are just shy of tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add greens and cook, stirring frequently, until greens are warmed through and mushrooms are tender, another couple minutes. Remove from the heat.

4. Lay the tortillas out on a plate. Divide the mushroom-onion mixture among the tortillas. Top each with a few crumbles of the goat cheese, a bit of greens, and a drizzle of salsa, and eat.

Dal Palak

Pretty much every Monday night it is both Meatless Monday and big batch cooking night at my house. Monday might not be the night most people use to be ambitious after work, but I like to use the first night of the week fill up the freezer and get some laundry done while dinner is bubbling away on the stove. Crossing off a long to-do list is my solution to the Monday doldrums, making what would be a drag of a day anyway move a lot more quickly and starting the week on a productive note.

For all the cuisines that make an appearance on my Monday night, I think Indian is the most common. All manner of vegetables and legumes, even many you wouldn't normally expect, take expertly to sweet, savory, and spicy Indian-inspired flavors. They're also ideal candidates for big batch Meatless Monday because they are often healthy, inexpensive, and freeze really well. This trifecta of qualities is what makes a recipe worth investing significant prep and cooking time, provided the outcome is still a delicious dish. And while neither I, or the author of the original, will claim this is the most authentic recipe, there's no denying that this fridge-clearing pile of veggies and melange of spices meet all those criteria perfectly.

For the dinner and lunch the day after, I ate this over brown rice with a dollop of yogurt and dash of hot sauce, but if I get some time to make naan, you can bet this will be one of the first companions it sees. Baked tofu, chicken, or even eggs would also perch perfectly atop this healthy plate if you're feeling especially ravenous.

Dal Palak
adapted from The Kitchn

makes about 8 cups

1 large onion, diced
2 packages (about 16 ounces) white button or baby bella mushrooms, roughly chopped
2 medium-sized red or white potatoes, cubed
1 inch fresh ginger, minced
6 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons coriander
1 Tablespoon garam masala
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 28-ounce can of diced tomatoes
10 ounce bunch of spinach or other hearty green (kale, chard, etc.) cleaned and cut into ribbons
1 cup lentils
3 cups of water or broth
1-2 Tablespoons salt
Chopped scallions, for topping (optional)
Plain yogurt or sour cream, for topping (optional)
Hot sauce, for topping (optional)

1. Heat one tablespoon of olive oil in a large dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat. Add the onions, the mushrooms, and one teaspoon of salt, and cook until the onions are translucent and the mushrooms show spots of golden brown. Add the potatoes and another teaspoon of salt, and cook until the edges are just starting to turn translucent.

2. Clear a space in the middle of the pan and add the ginger, garlic, spices, and one more teaspoon of salt. Cook until the garlic is fragrant (30 seconds), and then stir the spices into the mix. Add the diced tomatoes in their juices, the spinach, and the lentils. Stir to combine everything and then top with three cups of water or broth.

3. Turn the heat to high and bring the soup to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat and let the soup simmer for about 45 minutes until the lentils and potatoes are cooked through. Taste the soup to adjust the seasonings and salt. Stir in half of the chopped scallions, reserving the rest to use as garnish.

4. Serve dal along with rice, naan, or chapatis.

Butternut Squash and Pea Curry

I'm a little hesitant to make any recipe with the word winter in name right now, but just because I've grown tired of winter weather doesn't mean I've lost love for everything bearing that moniker. Be it November or March, the sweet creaminess of butternut squash is a perfect mate for curry, and I won't deny myself one of my favorite veggies just because of its seasonal name. A squash by any other name would taste as sweet...

Mark Bittman specializes in bringing good food, in terms of flavor and nutrition, to the masses. I've been lucky enough to see him speak, and his palpable passion for sustainable, healthy, flavorful food combined with pragmatism is what I think has made his approach resonate with so many people. This recipe is a prime example of that enthusiastic, yet practical approach, tons of flavor and nutrition packed into an inexpensive meal that is prepared quickly and freezes well. There's no special twist or magic to this recipe, just a classic combination of ingredients with an undeniable affinity for each other, that I've made even more flexible. The hearty base squash or sweet potato base eagerly soaks up aromatic curry spices and rich coconut milk, happily punctuated with verdant peas or beans for a well-rounded collection of vegetal flavors.

Even in its simplest form, this is a flavorful vegan dinner, but I encourage you to dress it up to your heart's content. Plain yogurt, hot sauce, and fresh cilantro are my finishes of choice, but particularly ravenous diners may also want to include grilled chicken or tofu. Whether mixed into a bowl of rice, or messily scooped with naan or pita, you'll leave this meal feeling healthy and satisfied.

Butternut Squash and Pea Curry

adapted from How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman

serves 4

2 tablespoons olive or canola oil
1 onion, chopped
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

2 to 4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
1 1/2 pounds butternut or other winter squash, peeled and roughly chopped (or sweet potatoes, or a combination)

1/2 to 1 cup fresh or frozen peas (or green beans)
1 to 1 1/2 cups coconut milk, stock or water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Red pepper flakes, to taste (optional)
Rice, naan, or pita, for serving (optional)
Chopped fresh cilantro leaves, for serving (optional)

Sour cream or yogurt, for serving (optional)
Hot sauce, for serving (optional)

1. Put the oil in a pot or deep skillet with a tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the curry, ginger, and garlic and cook until the onion just starts to brown, about 2 minutes.

2. Add the squash and coconut milk and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes to taste. Bring to a boil, cover, and turn the heat down to low. Cook, stirring periodically, until the squash is just tender, about 20 minutes, checking periodically to make sure there is adequate liquid; if the squash is done and there is still a lot of liquid, remove the lid and turn the heat to medium-high until it’s thicker than stew. Add frozen peas and cook until warmed through. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve hot or warm over rice or naan with choice of garnishes.

Ribollita

It's a well-established fact that once I've acquired a beloved new cookbook, I can rarely restrain myself from getting a little obsessed. After pouring through each and every page, bookmarking as I go, how can I restrain myself? In continuing the Mollie Katzen recipe theme started earlier this week, I have another ready to go.

Ribollita is one of most delicious culinary creations of Tuscany, and like so many beloved dishes, originated as peasant fare. Literally meaning "reboiled", this dish began as a repurposing of the previous day's minestrone or vegetable soup, fortified with leftover bread. I'm fortunate enough to be deliberately preparing this meal rather than cobbling it together from leftovers, but I have no less appreciation of this affordable collection of humble vegetables melded into a hearty stew.

This meal is a labor of love and leisure, the kind of weekend project to let to lazily simmer on a Sunday afternoon while you mill about the house or relax with a good book. It might be tempting to short cut the process with some canned cannellinis, but much of flavor comes from the herb-infused beans and bean broth used later to cook the vegetables, so look to a different recipe for a quick ribollita. This can be streamlined a bit into a weeknight meal by preparing the beans the night before you'd like to serve the soup, making sure to reserve some of the bean broth as well. Each bite is herby and earthy and delicious down to the core in the vegan rendition, but the savory Parmesan takes it one more scrumptious step that my Dairyland origins wouldn't let me dream of omitting. Finally, a slice of rustic bread is absolutely imperative for staying honest to the peasant origins and more importantly, mopping up every last bit of beans, veggies, and broth.

Ribollita
adapted from The Heart of the Plate by Mollie Katzen
serves 6

For the beans:
1 cup dried cannellini beans, soaked for at least 4 hours (preferably overnight)
3 large garlic cloves, peeled and halved
3 fresh sage leaves
1 3-inch spring fresh rosemary
Several sprigs fresh thyme
1 medium Parmsan rind (up to 4 ounces; optional)

1. Drain the soaked beans and place them in a large pot along with enough fresh water to cover by at least 2 inches (3 inches is even better). Add the garlic and herbs and bring to a boil.

2. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook, partially covered, for 1 1/2 hours, or until the beans are as soft as they can get while still keeping their shape. (Make sure they are truly soft. No undercooked beans!) If you like, you can add the Parmesan ring about 45 minutes into the simmering.

3. Remove from the heat and drain in a strainer set over a large heatproof bowl, saving the cooking water. (Fish out the herbs and Parmesan rind, if using; it's okay to leave in the garlic.)

For the stew:
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups chopped onion (1 large)
2 celery stalks, diced
1 large carrot, cut into half circles about 1/8-inch thick or into bite-sized chunks
3/4 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
2 tablespoons minced or crushed garlic
1/2 pound green cabbage, cut into bite-size pieces (2 heaping cups)
1 large or 2 small bunches lacinato kale (1/2 pound total), stemmed and chopped fairly small (4 packed cups) or spinach or other hearty greens
Black pepper
About 6 slices artisan bread (day-old is fine), sch as ciabatta or Pugliese, toasted
Grated aged Parmesan, Pecorino, or Asiago (optional)

1. Place a soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat for about a minute, then add 2 tablespoons of the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently for 5 minutes, or until the onion begins to soften. Stir in the celery, carrot, 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, and 1 tablespoon of the garlic and cook for another 5 minutes, stirring often.

2. Stir in the cabbage, kale, and remaining 1 tablespoon garlic, sprinkling them with another 1/2 teaspoon salt as you go. The pot will be crowded at first, but the vegetables will cook down. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until all the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Add small amounts of the bean cooking water (1/2 cup at a time) if needed to prevent sticking, but otherwise try to force-cook the vegetables in their own moisture, adding as little water as possible.

3. When the vegetables are done to your liking, add the beans, stirring them in gently so they don't break. Add a little more bean-cooking water, if you wish. Cover again and cook for just a few more minutes. Taste to adjust the salt and add a good amount of black pepper.

4. Serve hot, drizzled with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, and topped with the toasted bread. If you want to enjoy a cheese-crusted experience, spoon the stew into ovenproof ceramic bowls (as you would with French onion soup), top with the bread sliced, sprinkle some cheese over the bread, and broil briefly.

Cabbage With Tomatoes, Bulgur and Chickpeas

There's no denying it's a glorious today when you find the ideal recipe for a classic meal. Perfect lasagna, the creamiest mac and cheese, the best beef stew - these all bring me great joy. But, being a constant culinary adventurer, finding a novel (to me) ingredient and/or spice combination might be the best of all.

Although I'm a fan of cabbage, it isn't a vegetable I buy all that often. But if you're trying to be a locavore during a Wisconsin winter, eventually you'll have to pick up a head. Okonomiyaki, made with green or red cabbage, is one of my favorite ways to dine on this crunchy crucifer, but that preparation does not lend itself to freezing leftovers for ready-made meals. Hunting for cabbage recipes led me to a lot of the usual suspects (sauteed, stuffed, etc.), but my desire to get out of my whole wheat pasta/brown rice/quinoa pattern happily lead me to this recipe. Cabbage and tomatoes are not two veggies I automatically think to pair, but they blend beautifully in this gently-cooked pot of heartiness. Perfectly seasoned with balanced smokiness, sweetness, acidity, and freshness, the veggies, bulgur and beans eagerly soak up all the flavor, but their unique textures keep the meal from becoming a homogeneous experience.

Surprisingly filling, this meal can be a vegetarian or vegan main dish, or a great companion to grilled chicken or fish. I'm anticipating the days where the days are long, warm, and sunny and I'll be eating fresh and light, but until Mother Nature releases her icy hold, I'll happily chow down on this warm, comforting meal.

Cabbage With Tomatoes, Bulgur and Chickpeas
adapted from The New York Times
serves 4 to 6

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
Salt to taste
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 medium head green or red cabbage, finely shredded
1 14-ounce can chopped tomatoes with juice
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar, cider vinegar or sherry vinegar
1/4 cup chopped fresh dill
2 cups water
1 cup coarse bulgur
1 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large, heavy lidded skillet or Dutch oven. Add the onion, and cook, stirring often, until tender, about five minutes. Stir in a pinch of salt and the paprika. Cook, stirring, until the onion is thoroughly tender and infused with paprika, three to four minutes.

2. Add the cabbage, and cook, stirring, for three minutes or until it begins to wilt. Stir in the tomatoes, sugar and vinegar, and add salt to taste. Bring to a simmer, lower the heat, cover and simmer 15 minutes until the cabbage is thoroughly tender.

3. Stir in the dill and the water, and bring a to a boil. Add the bulgur and chickpeas. Stir to combine. When the water comes back to a boil, reduce the heat to low and cover. Simmer 10 minutes or until all of the water has been absorbed. Remove from the heat, taste and adjust seasonings, and serve hot or at room temperature.

Black Bean Soup with Toasted Coconut and Pepitas

It seems I've finally come to the end of my concentrated soup base experiment. There's been sweet potato soups and black bean soups galore, concluding with my personal spin on Joe Yonan's black bean soup base. I'll admit that I plagarized from myself a bit, again using rich and crunchy toasted coconut that worked so well with the sweet potato variety, this time swapping out the almonds for a smattering of pumpkin seeds. The creamy, spicy base really pops in contrast to the rich and toasty coconut and pepitas, the flavors and textures contrasting and complementing simultaneously. Although I didn't have any in the fridge to add this time, spinach or other hearty greens would be a nice nutritional boost, as with sweet potato soup. If you can't imagine eating a bowl of soup crusty bread, a roll, or crackers for dunking, I recommend a hearty handful of tortilla chips to get you through this bowl.

Now that I've made my way through all of Joe Yonan's recipes with concentrated soup base, I'm on to tackle his pasta sauce-based recipes, which extend far beyond dressing up some penne. While I'll look back fondly on this last culinary adventure, I'm excited to move on to the next one.

Black Bean Soup with Toasted Coconut and Pumpkin Seeds
serves 1

1 to 1 1/2 cups Spicy Black Bean Soup Base (see below)
Up to 1/2 cup water, or chicken, shrimp, or vegetable stock
Kosher or sea salt

1 tablespoon raw pepitas (pumpkin seeds)

1 tablespoon unsweetened flaked coconut

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the soup base. Whisk in enough stockor water to reach desired consistency. Cook for a few minutes to heat the soup through. Taste and add more salt, if desired. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot while you make the topping.

2. Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pepitas and coconut and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are fragrant and lightly browned, about 4 to 5 minutes.

3. Pour the soup into a serving bowl, top with the pepitas and coconut, and serve warm.
Spicy Black Bean Soup Base
from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
makes 4 to 5 cups

2 dried ancho, guajillo, or New Mexico chiles, or more to taste
1/2 pound dried black beans (1 heaping cup)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 shallot loves or 1/2 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, plus more as needed

1. Tear, break, or use scissors to cut the anchos into small strips or pieces. Combine them with the bean in a large bowl and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Let soak for at least 6 hours or overnight.

2. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery shallots, garlic, cinnamon, and allspice. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook the vegetables slowly until they start to become tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the beans, chiles, their soaking liquid, and enough water to cover the beans by 1 inch. Increase the heat to high to bring the contents to a boil. Then decrease the heat to low so that the liquid is at a bare simmer.

4. Cover and gently cook until the beans are very tender, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the beans. Add the salt, cook for a few more minutes, then let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup, then taste and adjust the salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can puree it in a blender or food processor. If you are using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the soup.

6. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate up to 1 week, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags, pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Black Bean Tortilla Soup with Shrimp and Corn

As promised, as soon as I was finished with my batch of sweet potato soup base, I immediately moved on to the black bean variety. The culinary memories of chorizo, chickpeas, and kale, orange and smoky pecans, and spinach, coconut, and almonds, reside fondly in my memory, but I was excited to move on to this new recipe. Although it was a transition out of my recent sweet potato obsession, this was just the kick my tastebuds had been craving.

Sweet potato soup was all silky comfort, but this bowl of creaminess comes with plenty of heat. Ancho chiles infuse the base with sweetness and spiciness, but neither the flavor or the heat of the chiles overpowers the soup. The base is delicious on its own, with a simple swirl of creme fraiche, or loaded up with all the fixings of good chili, but this elaborate concoction is even more suburb. The light shrimp, tomatoes, and corn are the perfect fresh addition to the hearty black beans, sour cream adds a subtle, luxurious touch with the crispy tortilla strips providing the perfect textural contrast. Toeing the line between hearty and light, this complete meal in a bowl is a beautiful transition between winter and spring.

Black Bean Tortilla Soup with Shrimp and Corn
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 to 1 1/2 cups Spicy Black Bean Soup Base (see below)
Up to 1/2 cup corn broth, water, or chicken, shrimp, or vegetable stock
Kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 jalapeno or serrano chile
1 or 2 corn tortillas, preferably homemade
Kernels from one ear fresh corn (about 3/4 cup), or 1/2 cup frozen corn
2 to 3 ounces very small shrimp or medium to large shrimp, cut into small pieces
8 small cherry tomatoes, quartered, or 2 plum tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch pieces or 1/2 cup diced tomatoes
1/2 lime
2 tablespoons sour cream, creme fraiche, or yogurt
1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the soup base. Whisk in enough broth, stock, or water to reach desired consistency. Cook for a few minutes to heat the soup through. Taste and add more salt, if desired. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot while you make the topping.

2. Pour half of the oil into a medium skillet over medium heat. Remove the stem from the from the jalapeno and scrap out the ribs and seeds, reserving the seeds. Finely chop the chile and add it to the skillet. Cut the tortilla in half and cut into slices. Add to the skillet and saute until the tortillas are crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer tortillas and chile to a serving bowl.

3. Add the remaining oil to the pan, then add the corn, shrimp, and tomatoes to the skillet. Season with salt and saute just until the shrimp are opaque and the corn turns bright yellow 1 to 4 minutes, depending o the size of the shrimp.

4. Transfer the corn mixture to the serving bowl and pour in the black bean soup base. Squeeze the lime half over the top, spoon on sour cream, sprinkle with crisped tortillas, chile, and cilantro, and eat.

Spicy Black Bean Soup Base
from Joe Yonan's Serve Yourself
makes 4 to 5 cups

2 dried ancho, guajillo, or New Mexico chiles, or more to taste
1/2 pound dried black beans (1 heaping cup)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 shallot loves or 1/2 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, plus more as needed

1. Tear, break, or use scissors to cut the anchos into small strips or pieces. Combine them with the bean in a large bowl and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Let soak for at least 6 hours or overnight.

2. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery shallots, garlic, cinnamon, and allspice. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook the vegetables slowly until they start to become tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the beans, chiles, their soaking liquid, and enough water to cover the beans by 1 inch. Increase the heat to high to bring the contents to a boil. Then decrease the heat to low so that the liquid is at a bare simmer.

4. Cover and gently cook until the beans are very tender, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the beans. Add the salt, cook for a few more minutes, then let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup, then taste and adjust the salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can puree it in a blender or food processor. If you are using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the soup.

6. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate up to 1 week, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags, pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Red Flannel Hash

When it comes to quick dinners, eggs are nonpareil in my book. Father Winter reared his ugly head and after spending an hour or two shoveling after work, I needed a hearty dinner and I needed it fast. Red flannel hash often appears around St. Patrick's Day, but this ruby-hued beauty of a dish is a lovely meal all winter long.

My CSA provides an embarrassment of riches in the root vegetable department, along with some healthy (okay, disturbingly large) heads of cabbage, so this recipe is practically a love letter to the ingredients already in my fridge. The relative amounts of each ingredient aren't all that important, so assemble the ingredients in whatever ratio makes you happiest or helps you clean out of the fridge. After all, this began as a humble, hearty peasant breakfast, so there's no need to be to fussy with adhering to the recipe perfectly. 

Without too long of a cook time, the beets become sweet and caramelized, happily mingling with the starchy potatoes and crisp-tender cabbage. If you like your veggies with a little more texture, or simply can't wait to chow down, cook the eggs and serve promptly, but if you want this to stew the veggies down to a meltingly tender crimson mash before adding the eggs, it's equally delicious that way. The runny egg yolk glazes each bite with richness, but the traditional corned beef or some sausage or bacon certainly wouldn't be unwelcome for an even heartier meal.

Although it won't be red flannel hash without the beets, this template is still primed for experimentation with other root veggies, the celeriac and rutabaga in my fridge already clamoring for a starring role in the sequel. 

Red Flannel Hash

adapted from The Kitchn

serves 4 to 6

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 white or yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon salt
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
3-4 red or Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed and diced small (or shredded)
3 beets, peeled and diced small (or shredded)
1/2 head red cabbage, cored and thinly sliced
4-6 large eggs

1. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and 1/2 teaspoon of salt, and cook until the onions become soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic, herbs, and 1/2 teaspoon of black pepper. Stir until the garlic becomes fragrant, about 30 seconds.

2. Add the potatoes, beets, and another 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Stir everything together, cover the pan, and turn the heat down to medium. Cook for 10-12 minutes, stirring every few minutes, until the beets are tender. Don't worry if the potatoes start to fall apart a little - they are meant to! As you stir, be sure to scrape the bottom of the pan every so often to work in the browned bits from the pan.

3. When the beets are tender, stir in the cabbage. Cover and cook for another 3-5 minutes, until the cabbage is wilted. Give the mash a taste and add more salt and pepper if desired.

4. At this point, you can serve the mash right away or you can turn down the heat and let it simmer for as long as a half an hour. You can also take the mash off the heat completely and re-heat it when you're ready to serve.

5. Five minutes before you're ready to serve, crack the eggs around the circumference of the pan. Cover the pan and let the eggs poach for 5 minutes for runny yolks or 7 minutes for firm yolks. Scoop onto plates and serve.

Pureed Beet Soup

I celebrated the way most Americans do this past weekend - by stuffing myself to the gills. Vegetables were certainly part of the feasting, but a far higher percentage of my diet was dedicated to meat and starches than usual, so a veggie-packed week is definitely in order the balance things back out. Beets are the last vegetable remaining in any great quantity in my fridge before my next CSA delivery on Wednesday, and a hearty beet soup is the perfect remedy to both of those problems.

Beets are a somewhat polarizing vegetable, and one I only came to appreciate in adulthood. While there can certainly be a soil-like nuance, when cooked properly they are a wonderful balance of earthy and sweet. This soup is beautifully simple, the classic pureed soup formula exploiting both of those elements, with the oft-forgotten final addition of acid that is so important to letting all the flavors bloom. Vegans or those really looking to cut back can omit the sour cream, but that final touch is what really enriches this soup and makes it hearty enough for a light winter meal.

Pureed Beet Soup
adapted from Martha Stewart
serves 4 to 6




2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, coarsely chopped
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 pounds beets, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 can (14 1/2 ounces) reduced-sodium vegetable or chicken broth
1 to 3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice or red wine vinegar
Sour cream, for serving (optional)

1. In a large Dutch oven or pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion. Season with salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 to 7 minutes.

2. Add beets, broth, and enough water (4 to 5 cups) to cover. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium, and simmer until beets are tender, about 20 minutes.

3. Using a blender or an immersion blender, puree broth and vegetables until smooth. If using a blender, work in batches and fill only halfway, allowing heat to escape: Remove cap from hole in lid, cover lid firmly with a dish towel, and blend. Transfer to a clean pot as you work. Adjust soup's consistency with a little water if necessary. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Stir in sour cream, if desired, and serve.

Puréed Zucchini Soup With Curry

It is way too late in the year to have a zucchini recipe to share, but alas, the two-pound monster zucchini I found while cleaning up my gardens for the year thought otherwise. A two-pound zucchini is a formidable culinary undertaking, and the quickest way to put it all to good use was a hearty pot of soup. It starts with a classic base and subtle additions of curry and rice give it a special touch. Curry is added with a light hand so the soup does not have an assertive Indian flavor, but instead a subtle hint of warming spices in the background of each bite. Zucchini makes a surprisingly smooth soup on its own, but the addition of rice gives it additional body and silkiness.

This soup was originally intended to be a spring dish, but I don't think it would be a stretch to use this same recipe with a hearty winter squash as well. With my first CSA pick up just over a week away, I may be back to try out that hypothesis very soon.

Puréed Zucchini Soup With Curry
adapted from the New York Times
makes 4 to 6 servings

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 small white or yellow onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 pounds zucchini, diced (about 7 cups diced)
2 teaspoons curry powder
6 cups chicken stock, vegetable stock or water
1/4 cup brown basmati rice
Salt to taste
Freshly ground pepper (I like a lot of it in this soup)
Pinch of cayenne
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large, heavy soup pot and add the onion. Cook, stirring, until it is tender, about 5 minutes. Add a generous pinch of salt, the garlic and the zucchini and stir for about a minute, until the garlic smells fragrant. Add the curry powder, stir together, and add the stock or water, the rice and salt to taste. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer 30 minutes. Taste and adjust salt.

2. Purée the soup with an immersion blender or a food mill or in batches in a blender, taking care to remove the lid or take out the center insert and to cover with a towel to avoid hot splashes. Return to the pot, heat through, add pepper and cayenne to taste and stir in the lemon juice.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce

Earlier this week I shared a recipe for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce, so it now it's time to share one that is a bit farther down the cooked scale. In the previous sauce the flavor profile featured the tartness, but in this sauce acidic notes are muted in favor of a deeper, earthier flavor. It doesn't go as far as Roasted Tomatillo Salsa, which is all about the roasted and smoky flavors, but nicely bridges those two extremes. Again we see chiles, cilantro, and onion making an appearance, garlic and stock fortifying the flavor even further. With that usual cast of characters, this is most certainly a pleasing preparation for any tomatillo lover, but the gentler acidic character will appeal to larger audience of non-tomatillo devotees.

Any of the suggestions I made for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce are just as appropriate for this variation, though I heartily endorse its use in the shredded pork chilaquiles pictured above. As I steadily make my way through my freezer cache in order to make room for my impending winter CSA, I am both delighting in the revisiting these summer flavors and sad to see them go. But when you love food and cooking as much as I do, each day has the potential for culinary adventure. Who knows? This concentrated summer flavor just may end up meeting up with hearty winter squash.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce
makes about 2 1/2 to 3 cups
adapted from Authentic Mexican by Rick Bayless

1 pound (11 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and washed OR two 13-ounce cans tomatillos, drained
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 3 chiles serranos or 2 chiles jalapenos), stemmed
5 or 6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1 large garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon lard or vegetable or canola oil
2 cups any low-sodium poultry, meat, or vegetable broth or stock (depending on how the sauce is to be used)
Salt, about 1/2 teaspoon (depending on the saltiness of the broth)

1. The tomatillos. Boil the fresh tomatillos and chiles in salt water to cover until tender, 10 to 15 minutes; drain. Simply drain the canned tomatillos.

2. The puree. Place the tomatillos and chiles (raw ones if using canned tomatillos) in a blender or food processor, along with the coriander, onion, and garlic; if using a blender, stir well. Process until smooth, but still retaining a little texture.

3. The sauce. Heat the lard or oil in a medium-large skillet set over medium-high. When hot enough to make a drop of the puree sizzle sharply, pour it in all at once and stir constantly for 4 or 5 minutes, until darker and thicker. Add the broth, let return to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and simmer until thick enough to coat a spoon, about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce

I finally cleaned out my gardens last week. My final harvest yielded a good amount of eggplant, some jalapenos, poblanos, and mini sweet bell peppers, a couple tomatoes, a surprise 2+ pound zucchini the size of my forearm, and even a few last tomatillos from plants that looked like they were in their death throes, yet were flowering at the same time. Apparently it's not just my mutant plants hanging on for dear life, as I saw a couple vendors still selling a few tomatillos, but I thought I should share a few last tomatillo recipes before all vestiges of this favorite fruit disappear.

If you know me or Mexican cooking, it should be no surprise that I went straight to Rick Bayless for recipes. I can't say enough about how much I love his cookbooks and recipes, so I expect nothing less than  perfection when I try his recipes. And you know what? I'm never disappointed. I've made seemingly countless tomatillo sauces at this point, mostly from his recipes, all with their own unique character. As the name would suggest, this sauce is fresh and vibrant, celebrating all the tart and citrusy notes of the tomatillo. Hot chiles, cilantro, and onion are familiar companions, this classic combination just as delicious with barely cooked tomatillos as deeply roasted ones.

There's no end to the ways this sauce can be used. A few suggestions include a dip for chips, topping for tacos, tostados, and eggs, or sauce for smothered burrito pictured above, though that is certain not an exhaustive list. If you like tomatillos, you're almost guaranteed to love this sauce, relishing in it's spicy, tart flavor brightens up any dish it is added to.

Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce

from Authentic Mexican 20th Anniversary Ed: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico by Rick Bayless

makes about 1 ½ cups

8 ounces (5 or 6 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and washed
OR one 13-ounce can tomatillos, drained
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 2 chiles serranos or 1 chile jalapeno), stemmed
5 or 6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
½ small onion, chopped
Salt, about ½ teaspoon

1. The tomatillos: Boil fresh tomatillos in salted water to cover until barely tender, 8 to 10 minutes; drain. Canned tomatillos only need to be drained.

2. The puree: Place the tomatillos in a blender or food processor. If you want a milder sauce, seed the chile(s), then chop into small bits and add to the tomatillos along with the coriander and chopped onion; if using a blender, stir well. Blend or process to a coarse puree.

3. Finishing the sauce: Scrape into a sauce dish, thin to medium-thick consistency with about ¼ cup water, then season with salt. Let stand for about ½ hour before serving, for the flavors to blend.

Traditional Variations

Chunky Tomatillo Sauce: Prepare the sauce as described, finely chopping the chile, onion and coriander, then adding them to the blended tomatillos. If the chopped onion is rinsed, the sauce will sour less quickly.

All-Raw Tomatillo Relish: Prepare the sauce with chopped raw tomatillos, adding ¼ cup water before blending. Taste for salt and stir in additional water, if needed.

Indian-Spiced Eggplant & Cauliflower Stew

The more I experiment with my eggplant crop, the more I'm coming to appreciate what a versatile canvas it can be. Baba ganoush and eggplant Parmesan are two of the most iconic dishes for this gorgeous member of the nightshade family (ratatouille and moussaka being others), but I have to say I'm especially pleased with how it fares with the vibrant spices of Indian cuisine.

Curry powder and garam masala form the flavor backbone of this dish and their varieties myriad and varied, so choose ones that you really love for this recipe. Cauliflower and potato curry was the first one I ever prepared (and loved!), earning cauliflower an eternal welcome in any curry I make; it takes a turn as an expert companion to eggplant here. Onions, tomatoes, and chickpeas round out a typical cast of characters, all of those ingredients taking up classic Indian spices with great aplomb. The creamy swirl of yogurt or sour cream makes the tapestry of flavors especially vibrant, so barring veganism or lactose intolerance, I strongly encourage that finishing touch.

Though Indian food comes from a land that generally dare not dream of freezing temperatures, those flavors are just as delightful on chilly Wisconsin fall day as a searing one in Delhi. Flavorful bites call up images of warm and far away lands, while still linked to milder climes by familiar comforting spices of fall like cinnamon and cardamom.

Indian-Spiced Eggplant and Cauliflower Stew
adapted from Eating Well
serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons curry powder
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 large onion, sliced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1-pound eggplant, cut into 1-inch chunks
8 ounces small cauliflower florets
1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes
1 15-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup plain yogurt or sour cream, (optional)

Pita, rice, or naan, for serving (option)

1. Heat a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add curry powder, garam masala and mustard seeds and toast, stirring, until the spices begin to darken, about 1 minute. Transfer to a small bowl.

2. Add oil, onion, garlic, ginger and salt to the pot and cook, stirring, until softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in eggplant, cauliflower, tomatoes, chickpeas, water and the reserved spices. Bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Top each serving with a dollop of yogurt or sour cream, if desired, and serve with pita, rice, or naan, if desired.

Roasted Eggplant and Chickpea Soup

Someone failed to tell my eggplants that it's fall, because they just keep producing. Temperatures slipped dangerously close to freezing last night, but as long as Jack Frost stays away, I'm going to let them keeping on growing. I'm glad this bumper crop arrived after my zucchini had waned, because turning eggplant into Thai curry, baba ganoush, and eggplant Parmesan has certainly kept me busy already. My winter CSA starts in just a couple of weeks and I'm confident I'll have put it all to good use by then.

The obvious place to turn to use up a lot of any one vegetable is soup, and though the list of ingredients is brief, this certainly isn't short on taste.There's a bit of chopping and peeling (if desired) involved to get your vegetables ready for primetime, but the ingredients mostly roast unattended, developing a deep flavor with minimal effort required. Chickpeas roast alongside the eggplant, onions, and garlic, picking up a nutty flavor and crunchy texture that is the perfect contrast to the silky, earthy eggplant. A dollop of yogurt or sour cream adds a rich, creamy, tangy accent, but isn't necessary if you're vegetarian or vegan.

This soup may be made with the last of my summer crop, but it most certainly has the soul of fall, each bite packed with the hearty texture and flavor necessary to fortify against the impending colder months.

Roasted Eggplant and Chickpea Soup
adapted from Martha Stewart
serves 4

2 medium eggplants (about 1 1/2 pounds total), peeled, if desired, and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 small yellow or white onion, diced medium
2 garlic cloves, unpeeled
6 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and ground pepper
1 can (15.5 ounces) chickpeas, rinsed, drained, and patted dry
4 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth or water
Fresh oregano (optional)
Plain yogurt or sour cream (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a large bowl, toss together eggplant, onion, garlic, and 4 teaspoons of the olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer in a roasting pan or rimmed baking sheet, leaving a wide strip of empty space at one end. In bowl, toss chickpeas with remaining 2 teaspoons olive oil. Transfer to empty space on sheet. Roast until eggplant is golden and cooked through and chickpeas are slightly crunchy, about 35 minutes.

2. Set chickpeas aside. Peel garlic and add to a medium pot, along with eggplant, onion, and broth. Bring mixture to a simmer over medium-high. With a potato masher or back of a wooden spoon, mash some eggplant until soup is thick and chunky, or puree to desired consistency with an immersion blender. Stir in chickpeas and season to taste with salt and pepper. To serve, top with fresh oregano and plain yogurt, if desired.

Pan-Seared Salmon with Braised Lentils and Swiss Chard

Because I have an adventurous palate, my constant quest for new foods and flavors can sometimes lead me to forget about out old favorites. For whatever reason, lentils are one of those foods for me. I don't think I've met a lentil dish I didn't like, but I don't find myself plucking them out of the pantry on a regular basis. And there's no good reason for not making them more often. They cook much faster than your average dried legume without requiring any pre-soaking, making them the perfect bean for a quick weeknight meal.

The list of ingredients is startlingly short for the flavor the finished dish turns out, just a few gentle touches of herb and acid required to perfectly unite the earthy lentils, rich salmon, and subtly bitter Swiss chard in a flavorful broth. I found this combination to be absolutely delectable, but I already have notions of trying spinach and kale once I've finally picked my Swiss chard plants clean. This is satisfying enough on its own, but if you're feeling a bit more voracious, a side of quinoa or rice really rounds out the meal nicely. Quick enough for an average Thursday, but special enough for date night, this dinner is sure to impress whether or not there's time to linger over each scrumptious bite.

Pan-Seared Salmon with Braised Lentils and Swiss Chard
adapted from America's Test Kitchen Cooking for Two 2010
serves 2

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 bunch Swiss chard (about 6 ounces), stems and leaves separated, stems chopped and leaves cut into 1-inch pieces
1/4 cup minced onion
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or pinch dried
2 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
1/2 cup brown lentils (about 3 ounces), picked over and rinsed
1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Salt and pepper
2 (6-ounce) skinless center-cut salmon fillets, about 1 1/2 inches thick
1 teaspoon vegetable or canola oil
Lemon wedges, for serving

1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a 10-inch non-stick skillet over medium heat. Add the chard stems and onion and cook until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

2. Stir in 1 3/4 cups of the broth, lentils, and lemon juice. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the lentils are tender, about 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, transfer to a bowl, and cover to keep warm.

3. Pat the salmon fillets dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Wipe out the skillet with a wad of paper towels, add the toil, and return to medium-high heat until just smoking. Carefully lay the salmon in the skillet, skinned-side up, and cook until well-browned on the first side, about 5 minutes. Flip the fish and continue to cook until the sides are opaque and the thickest part registers 125 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, 3 to 5 minutes longer. Transfer the fish to a plate, tent loosely with foil, and let rest while finishing the lentils.

4. Wipe out the skillet with a wad of paper towels and return to medium-high heat Ad the lentils and remaining 1/4 cup broth and cook until hot, about 1 minute. Stir int he chard leaves and remaining 1 tablespoon butter and cook, stirring constantly, until the chard is wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve the salmon and lentils with lemon wedges.

Fresh Herb and Zucchini Frittata

I was sure my zucchini plant was done producing. The voluminous leaves were coated with a unhealthy glaze of white and the vine was collapsing under the weight of the cold fall weather. But when I went to visit my eggplant and pepper plants and see what they had to harvest, I found that my zucchini plant had gifted me with two healthy size squash, with at least four babies on the vine. Because I'd had a nice break from this prolific plant, their appearance filled me with delight instead of the hesitance it might have just a few weeks ago. My diverse culinary with zucchini is more than amply documented in previous posts, but when I tried to think of a way to use up this late season crop I realize there was a glaring omission in my zucchini recipe roster - frittatas! 

It feels like I've put every possible vegetable into a frittata, and I've rarely been disappointed. Other than vegans, who doesn't love a frittata? You can make them as healthy or indulgent as you like, fill them with almost any ingredient, serve for any meal, and they take just minutes to make. This frittata blends tender zucchini and onion seamlessly into the rich egg and cheese base, with garden-fresh herbs permeating each delicious bite. I quite love this particular combination, in part because I grew many of the components myself, it still stands that its simplicity the reason for its success. This particular combination may not perfectly fit your garden's bounty as it did mine, but it's still a wonderful template for to filling your belly with whatever odds and ends you have lingering in the fridge.

Fresh Herb and Zucchini Frittata
adapted from Eating Well

serves 2

4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 cup diced zucchini, (1 small)
1/2 cup chopped onion
1/4 cup slivered fresh mint
1/4 cup slivered fresh basil
1/4 teaspoon salt, divided
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
4 large eggs
2 ounces shredded fresh mozzarella or crumbled goat or feta cheese

1. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add zucchini and onion; cook, stirring often, for 1 minute. Cover and reduce heat to medium-low; cook, stirring occasionally, until the zucchini is tender, but not mushy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add mint, basil, 1/8 teaspoon salt and a grinding of pepper; increase heat to medium-high and cook, stirring, until the moisture has evaporated, 30 to 60 seconds.

2. Whisk eggs, the remaining 1/8 teaspoon salt and a grinding of pepper in a large bowl until blended. Add the zucchini mixture and cheese; stir to combine. Preheat the broiler.

3. Wipe out the pan and brush it with the remaining 2 teaspoons oil; place over medium-low heat. Add the frittata mixture and cook, without stirring, until the bottom is light golden, 2 to 4 minutes. As it cooks, lift the edges and tilt the pan so uncooked egg will flow to the edges.

4. Place the pan under the broiler and broil until the frittata is set and the top is golden, 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 minutes. Loosen the edges and slide onto a plate. Cut into wedges and serve.

Zucchini Rice Gratin

I've been slowly publishing the many zucchini recipes I tried this season because it seemed like it would never end. Much to my relief, my zucchini plant seems to finally be slowing down. After spending several hours Labor Day weekend I'm finally caught up and have a lot of recipes to share before the zucchini growing season is over entirely. In addition to my zucchini, I have a couple of heirloom tomatoes plants that are putting out a fine, though modest crop, and this recipe was the perfect meal to represent my garden's bounty.

The list of ingredients here is short, the flavor relying on the quality of the produce and the Parmesan cheese -that green can of Kraft and supermarket tomatoes just won't cut it here. It doesn't get more fresh and local than the backyard and while I could lay down some serious money for imported Parmigiano-Reggiano, I opt for Hook's Parmesan. It's surprising how just that modest amount of cheese, a couple of eggs, and some olive oil make this feel exceptionally rich, the rice adding just enough to make this as a light meal for four with a side salad and slice of crusty bread. It may have unofficially turned to fall with the passing of Labor Day, but I'm anxious to hold on to these tastes of summer just a little bit longer.

Zucchini Rice Gratin
adapted from Gourmet, March 2008
makes 4 to 6 (side dish) servings

1 cup prepared brown rice
1 1/2 pounds zucchini (about 3 medium), sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
4 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1/2 pound tomatoes, sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
1 medium onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 dried thyme
1/2 cup grated Parmesan or Parmigiano-Reggiano, divided

1. Preheat oven to 450°F with racks in upper and lower thirds.

2. Toss zucchini with 1 tablespoon oil and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a shallow baking pan. Toss tomatoes with 1/2 tablespoon oil and 1/4 teaspoon salt in another baking pan.

3. Roast zucchini in upper third of oven and tomatoes in lower third, turning vegetables once halfway through roasting, until tender and light golden, about 10 minutes for tomatoes; 20 minutes for zucchini. Leave oven on.

4. Meanwhile, cook onion and garlic with 1/2 teaspoon salt in 2 tablespoons oil in a large heavy skillet, covered, over low heat, stirring occasionally, until very tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

5. Stir together onion mixture, wild rice, eggs, thyme, 1/4 cup cheese, 1 tablespoon oil, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Spread half of rice mixture in a shallow 2-quart baking dish, then top with half of zucchini. Spread remaining rice mixture over zucchini, then top with remaining zucchini. Top with tomatoes and sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup cheese.

6. Bake in upper third of oven until set and golden brown, about 20 minutes.

Spicy Cold Tomatillo Soup

If there's one thing in my garden that's overproducing other than zucchini, it's tomatillos. Despite the name, tomatillos are a member of the nightshade family, related closely to ground cherries, not tomatoes. Even in the foodie culture of Madison, I'm surprised at the number of people who don't know this delicious fruit by name, though almost everyone is familiar with the wonderful flavor of salsa verde.

While addressing the zucchini crop can feel like a bit of a burden at times, I'll never complain about having too many tomatillos. From just a couple of plants I've gotten several pounds of fruit (and they're still producing), which I've turned into fresh salsa, multiple roasted salsas, and even jam. With my freezer and refrigerator well-stocked with these delicious tomatillo sauces, I needed to expand my culinary endeavors to use my garden bounty.

When I need to use up an abundance of ingredients, my first thought is always soup. This soup is a nice balance of decadence and lightness, the rich avocado and yogurt offset by fresh cucumber, onion, and cilantro, with roasted tomatillos beautifully bridging these extremes. I find that one unseeded serrano brings a nice level of heat, but for those less enthusiastic about spicy food I'd recommend removing the ribs and seeds and/or only using part of the pepper. This recipe makes enough for two main courses or four side dishes and can easily be scaled up, provided you have a large enough food processor or blender. A perfect cold soup for the waning warm days, this fresh and filling bowl of flavor satisfies with the flavors of summer, but teases the taste buds for the hearty cold weather soups and stews soon to come.

Spicy Cold Tomatillo Soup
adapted from Martha Stewart
makes about 1 quart

1 pound tomatillos, hulled and washed
3 garlic cloves
1 jalapeno or serrano chile, seeded and ribs removed for less heat
1 cup cucumber, peeled, seeded, and roughly chopped
1/4 cup roughly chopped onion
1/4 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon fresh lime (or lemon) juice
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1 small avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into small pieces
1/2 to 1 cup water

1. Heat broiler. Place tomatillos, garlic, and serrano chile in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, and roast until tomatillos are soft and browned in spots, about 5 minutes. Turn all items; continue cooking until other side is soft and browned, about 5 minutes more. Remove from heat; let cool slightly.

2. Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack; let cool completely. Peel garlic; place cloves in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Add tomatillos, serrano, and any accumulated juices along with cucumber, onion, cilantro, stock, lime juice, salt, yogurt, and avocado; blend until mixture is smooth. Add water, a few tablespoons at a time, blending after each addition, until soup reaches desired consistency. Taste and season with additional salt, if needed.

3. Transfer to a large bowl or plastic storage container; cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 2 hours before serving.