Spinach Enchiladas

Rick Bayless will forever be my go-to source for Mexican recipes, but I'm starting to think Joe Yonan has some pretty good ideas too. Mexican food doesn't have to be thoroughly authentic to be deeply satisfying, and I definitely have a fondness for both the Americanized and authentic versions. Just as gratifying as your favorite greasy Mexican joint, but without a requirement to be dressed for public dining, this meal is the perfect way to indulge your craving with a hint of authenticity and without settling for the Taco Bell drive-through.

I'm a sucker for anything in a tortilla, from whole wheat roasted veggie wraps, to fish tacos in homemade corn tortillas, to greasy quesadillas and everything in between. This recipe is a great balance of flavor, health, and convenience, using a collection of pantry staples and fresh vegetables to get this gorgeous meal into the oven in less than half an hour. Yogurt makes the quickly cooked vegetables wonderfully creamy with low caloric impact, tucked happily into tender corn tortillas with savory tomato sauce. Dipping the tortillas into the sauce before stuffing and rolling is a simple step that makes all the different in unifying the ingredients, though coating everything in a gentle layer of cheese certainly doesn't hurt. I can't imagine a Mexican dish without cilantro, but if your genetic misfortune means it leaves a soapy taste in your mouth, feel free to leave it out. This meal is plenty hearty as is, but beans, mushrooms, or chicken certainly wouldn't be unwelcome additions to the spinach.

Spinach Enchiladas
adapted from Eat Your Vegetables by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 large shallot lobe, chopped, or 1/4 cup finely chopped white or yellow onion
1 clove garlic, minced or pressed
1/2 small to medium jalapeno, finely chopped (leave seeds and ribs for extra heat)
3 cups lightly packed baby spinach leaves, washed and dried (about 3 ounces)
2 tablespoons whole Greek-style yogurt, sour cream, or creme fraiche
2 (6-inch) corn tortillas
2/3 cup flavorful store-bought or homemade tomato sauce, thinned with 2 to 3 tablespoons of water
1/4 cup grated Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Pour the oil into a small skillet over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the shallot, garlic, and jalapeno and cook until soft but not browned. Add the spinach and stir-fry until it has just wilted, then scrape the mixture into a bowl and stir in the yogurt. Season with salt to taste.

3. Warm the tortillas to make them more pliable : either microwave them for a few seconds or heat them in a dry skillet over medium-high heat for about 10 seconds on each side, just enough to soften them. (If you have a gas stove, you can also put hem directly on the burner grate over the flame for a few seconds on each side.) Immediately wrap them in foil to keep them warm.

4. Pour the thinned-out tomato sauce into the skillet that you sauteed the shallow mixture in and bring it to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat to love so that the sauce is barely simmering. Use tongs to dip the tortillas into the sauce one at a time, leaving them in for a just a few seconds; lift them out, letting the excess sauce drip off, and transfer them to a plate.

5. Spread about a quarter of the sauce on the bottom of a small casserole or individual gratin dish. Lay the softened tortillas on a work surface. Place half the spinach mixture in the center of each one, then roll the tortillas to form enchiladas and arrange them seam side down on top of the layer of sauce in the casserol dish. Spoon the remaining sauce on top and sprinkle with the grated cheese.

6. Bake until the cheese has melted and the sauce is bubbling, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle the enchiladas with the cilantro and eat hot.

Black Bean Tortilla Soup with Shrimp and Corn

As promised, as soon as I was finished with my batch of sweet potato soup base, I immediately moved on to the black bean variety. The culinary memories of chorizo, chickpeas, and kale, orange and smoky pecans, and spinach, coconut, and almonds, reside fondly in my memory, but I was excited to move on to this new recipe. Although it was a transition out of my recent sweet potato obsession, this was just the kick my tastebuds had been craving.

Sweet potato soup was all silky comfort, but this bowl of creaminess comes with plenty of heat. Ancho chiles infuse the base with sweetness and spiciness, but neither the flavor or the heat of the chiles overpowers the soup. The base is delicious on its own, with a simple swirl of creme fraiche, or loaded up with all the fixings of good chili, but this elaborate concoction is even more suburb. The light shrimp, tomatoes, and corn are the perfect fresh addition to the hearty black beans, sour cream adds a subtle, luxurious touch with the crispy tortilla strips providing the perfect textural contrast. Toeing the line between hearty and light, this complete meal in a bowl is a beautiful transition between winter and spring.

Black Bean Tortilla Soup with Shrimp and Corn
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 to 1 1/2 cups Spicy Black Bean Soup Base (see below)
Up to 1/2 cup corn broth, water, or chicken, shrimp, or vegetable stock
Kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 jalapeno or serrano chile
1 or 2 corn tortillas, preferably homemade
Kernels from one ear fresh corn (about 3/4 cup), or 1/2 cup frozen corn
2 to 3 ounces very small shrimp or medium to large shrimp, cut into small pieces
8 small cherry tomatoes, quartered, or 2 plum tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch pieces or 1/2 cup diced tomatoes
1/2 lime
2 tablespoons sour cream, creme fraiche, or yogurt
1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the soup base. Whisk in enough broth, stock, or water to reach desired consistency. Cook for a few minutes to heat the soup through. Taste and add more salt, if desired. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot while you make the topping.

2. Pour half of the oil into a medium skillet over medium heat. Remove the stem from the from the jalapeno and scrap out the ribs and seeds, reserving the seeds. Finely chop the chile and add it to the skillet. Cut the tortilla in half and cut into slices. Add to the skillet and saute until the tortillas are crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer tortillas and chile to a serving bowl.

3. Add the remaining oil to the pan, then add the corn, shrimp, and tomatoes to the skillet. Season with salt and saute just until the shrimp are opaque and the corn turns bright yellow 1 to 4 minutes, depending o the size of the shrimp.

4. Transfer the corn mixture to the serving bowl and pour in the black bean soup base. Squeeze the lime half over the top, spoon on sour cream, sprinkle with crisped tortillas, chile, and cilantro, and eat.

Spicy Black Bean Soup Base
from Joe Yonan's Serve Yourself
makes 4 to 5 cups

2 dried ancho, guajillo, or New Mexico chiles, or more to taste
1/2 pound dried black beans (1 heaping cup)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 shallot loves or 1/2 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, plus more as needed

1. Tear, break, or use scissors to cut the anchos into small strips or pieces. Combine them with the bean in a large bowl and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Let soak for at least 6 hours or overnight.

2. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery shallots, garlic, cinnamon, and allspice. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook the vegetables slowly until they start to become tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the beans, chiles, their soaking liquid, and enough water to cover the beans by 1 inch. Increase the heat to high to bring the contents to a boil. Then decrease the heat to low so that the liquid is at a bare simmer.

4. Cover and gently cook until the beans are very tender, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the beans. Add the salt, cook for a few more minutes, then let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup, then taste and adjust the salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can puree it in a blender or food processor. If you are using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the soup.

6. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate up to 1 week, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags, pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Pesto Chickpea Melt

Remember how I mentioned how I can get obsessed with riffing on one kind of recipe? When it comes to mashed chickpea melts, I'm still at it. Chickpeas are an excellent canvas for all manner of flavors and I've been equally pleased with the way they've played with Indian, barbecue, and now Italian flavors. Last time I was all about barbecue sauce and sharp cheddar cheese and this time I'm all about the pesto and provolone. I spend many an hour working in the kitchen over labor-intensive recipes, but sometimes it's just the punched up quick and easy recipes that really put a bright spot in my (busy) day. When it comes quick recipes like those, prepared shortcut ingredients are your best friend. I'm made both my own barbecue sauces and pestos in the past, but when there isn't time to get Fannie Farmer in the kitchen, a great bottle off the shelf is more than acceptable. The success of this recipe really comes from a happy partnership of sauce and cheese so spending a little extra for some high-quality sauce and cheese is well worth it. Somewhere between comfort food and virtuous grilled cheese, this melt is the perfect way to add a little something special to an ordinary meal.

Pesto Chickpea Melt
serves 1

1/2 cup cooked chickpeas, coarsely mashed
2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion
1 tablespoon mayo

1 tablespoon pesto
Whole grain tortilla, bread, or pita
1 ounce thinly sliced or shredded mozzarella and/or provolone (optional)

1. Mix chickpeas, onion, mayo, and pesto together in small bowl. Spread mixture evenly in center of tortilla, cover with cheese, and roll up tortilla.

2. Preheat a pan over medium heat. Add wrap, seam side down, and cook, flipping once, until filling is warm and cheese is melted, about 4 to 5 minutes per side. Remove from pan, slice in half, and serve promptly.

Black Bean Enchiladas with Spicy Squash Sauce

Of all the things I've made in an effort to use up ridiculous amount of squash puree in my freezer, this has to be my favorite. Sadly, it's not because of the inherent squashiness of the dish, but the way in which it brings all the other ingredients together so perfectly. Squash puree is a fantastic shortcut to a lush sauce, able to blend with all manner of ingredients without dominating the flavor. Though this may not be the kind of authentic fare that will show up in a Rick Bayless cookbook, there's no denying that the silky and subtly sweet squash is an ideal foil for spicy jalapenos and chili powder. Add a hearty black bean filling and a savory frosting of cheese and you've got a crowd-pleasing meal as suitable to Meatless Monday as it is to a celebratory feast. Even better, this meal freezes wonderfully, so make up a double batch to be ready to feed the masses any time.

Black Bean Enchiladas with Spicy Squash Sauce
adapted from Martha Stewart
serves 4

One 15-ounce can seasoned black beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup fresh corn or frozen corn, thawed
6 scallions, thinly sliced
Coarse salt and ground pepper
1 1/2 cups butternut or other winter squash puree
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1 jalapeno chile, quartered (remove ribs and seeds for less heat, if desired)
1 teaspoon chili powder
8 corn tortillas (6-inch)
1 cup grated sharp or smoked cheddar cheese (4 ounces)

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a medium bowl, combine beans, corn, and scallions. Season generously with salt and pepper; set aside.

2. In a blender, puree squash, garlic, jalapeno, chili powder, 1 1/2 cups water, 1 teaspoons salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper until smooth (hold top firmly as blender will be quite full). Taste sauce and season to taste with additional salt and pepper. Pour 1 cup of sauce in the bottom of an 9x13-inch baking dish.

3. Lay tortillas on work surface; mound black bean mixture on half of each tortilla, dividing evenly. Roll up tortillas; place, seam side down, in baking dish.

4. Pour remaining sauce on top; sprinkle with cheese. Place dish on a baking sheet; bake until cheese is golden and sauce is bubbling, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes before serving.

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Spicy Steak and Corn Soft Tacos

After I made salmon tacos, a half-empty package of tortillas lingering in the fridge demanded to meet their taco destiny as well. And with a lonely steak hanging out in the freezer, the solution was obvious-steak tacos. It would have been simplest just to slice some onions and peppers and make fajitas, but I was looking for something a little special while still quick and easy, both requirements satisfied by this taco. The sweet corn and slightly caramelized onions and peppers are accented by smoky cumin and fresh cilantro, with as much heat as you'd like from the chili powder and jalapenos. These tacos can be  indulgent and filling or healthy and light, depending on much sour cream and cheese you load on top, and can make for either a cozy meal for two or easily and affordably scaled up to feed a crowd. As delicious as this meal was made on the stove, it's sure to be even better in summer with fresh corn and peppers from the farmer's market, charring beautifully on the grill next to a gorgeous steak. Not a carnivore? Try out this brilliant flavor profile with black beans or tofu for a satisfying vegetarian meal.

Spicy Steak and Corn Soft Tacos
from Bon Appetit
serves 2

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium red onion, sliced
1 red bell pepper, sliced
1/2 pound round, flank or skirt steak, cut into 1/4-inch-thick, long narrow strips
3/4 cup frozen whole kernel corn, cooked according to package directions, drained
1 jalapeño chili, minced with seeds
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

Corn or flour tortillas
Grated cheddar cheese
Chopped fresh tomatoes (or salsa)
Sour cream

1. Heat oil in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and bell pepper and sauté until tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer to plate. Add steak to skillet and stir until no longer pink, about 1 minute. Return onion and pepper to skillet. Add corn, jalapeño, cumin and chili powder and stir until heated through. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Remove from heat and mix in cilantro. Transfer steak mixture to heated bowl and keep warm.

2. Cook tortillas over gas flame or electric burner until they just begin to color. Transfer to napkin-lined basket.

3. Serve tortillas, steak mixture, cheese, tomatoes and sour cream separately, so diners can assemble tacos at the table.

Grilled Salmon Soft Tacos

It's hard to believe there was a time in my life when I didn't like fish. As a kid, the only seafood I would eat was shrimp, tuna salad, and my dad's homemade cornmeal-breaded fish sticks. Now my freezer is well-stocked with fish fillets, I eat fish at least once a week for dinner, and have an insatiable appetite for sushi. A lot of fish fillets find their way onto my dinner table, but after picking up a package of corn tortillas, I couldn't get fish tacos out of my head. Fish tacos are traditionally made with white fish, so I had to do a little digging to find a salmon taco recipe (to use up the fish I already had) that seemed worth the effort, which this recipe definitely was. Smoky ancho chile powder coats the luscious salmon, turning into an intensely flavorful crust on the grill and playing beautifully against the fresh and crunchy cabbage slaw and cool, creamy cilantro crema. Since ancho chile powder isn't spicy, this is a great recipe for those who don't like a lot of heat (my husband); throw on a few pickled jalapenos to punch it up if you're a capsaicin addict like me. These light and fresh tacos invoked a small taste of summer, taking me away from the frigid winter winds of February into the sunny days of July. Although a complete meal on their own, I added a side of refried beans to satisfy my ravenous appetite, washing it all down with a cold beer while trying to forget about the snow.

Grilled Salmon Soft Tacos
adapted from Eating Well
serves 4

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon ancho or New Mexico chile powder
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
4 4-ounce wild salmon fillets, about 1-inch thick, skin on
8 6-inch corn or flour tortillas, warmed
Cabbage Slaw, for serving (recipe follows)
Homemade or store-bought salsa, for serving
Cilantro Crema, for serving (recipe follows)

1. Preheat grill to medium-high.

2. Combine oil, chile powder, lime juice, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Rub the spice mixture liberally over salmon. Grill the salmon, skin-side down, until it is just cooked through, about 8 minutes. Cut each fillet lengthwise into 2 pieces and remove the skin.

3. To serve, place 2 tortillas on each plate. Evenly divide the fish, Cabbage Slaw, and Cilantro Crema among the tortillas and top with salsa.

Cilantro Crema

1/2 cup reduced-fat sour cream
3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon minced scallion greens
1 teaspoon seeded and minced serrano chile
1/8 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper, to taste

1. Combine sour cream, cilantro, scallion greens, chile, salt and pepper in a small bowl until smooth.


Cabbage Slaw
2 cups finely shredded green cabbage
1/2 cup thinly sliced red bell pepper
1/3 cup thinly sliced red onion
2 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper


1. Toss cabbage, bell pepper, onion, vinegar and oil in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper; toss again to combine.

Shiitake, Spinach, and Sun-Dried Tomato Quesadillas

You can tell spring is truly here when the variety of produce available at the farmer's market starts to expand from root vegetables and winter spinach and I giddily anticipate being able to prepare most of my meals from farmer's market and CSA produce. This past week I bought some fantastic shiitake mushrooms and Snug Haven spinach from the farmer's market in anticipation of combining them, but with no specific plan. A quick survey of my fridge revealed some tortillas and sun-dried tomatoes that I wanted to use up and an ever-present large selection of Wisconsin cheeses and my thoughts immediately turned to quesadillas (and I use that term loosely). Quesadillas, like pizza and paninis, are a great way to get creative and use up the odds and ends of ingredients leftover from other recipes and range from very healthy to completely indulgent. Earthy mushrooms, fresh spinach, and intensely flavored sun-dried tomatoes all come together under a not-too-heavy blanket of cheese for a delicious appetizer or entree alongside a cup of soup or side salad. Although not quite as delicious as fresh off the grill, these quesadillas hold up pretty well for lunch the following day and are a satisfying change from peanut butter and jelly or cold cuts and cheese.

Shiitake, Spinach, and Sun-Dried Tomato Quesadillas
serves 4

2 tablespoons olive oil from olive oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, or regular (extra-virgin) olive oil
8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
8 ounces spinach, rinsed and chopped
1/4 cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes, packed in olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 six- to eight-inch whole-grain tortillas
1 cup shredded provolone cheese

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil from olive oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes over medium-high heat. (If you do not have enough oil supplement some or all with extra-virgin olive oil). Add the sliced mushrooms and saute, stirring frequently, until browned and tender, but not mushy, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add spinach, stir to combine and cook until spinach is wilted and tender, but not slimy, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in sun-dried tomatoes, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

2. Meanwhile, heat a panini or sandwich press according to manufacturer's instructions until hot. (Alternatively, heat a well-seasoned ridged grill pan over moderate heat.)

3. Divide the mushroom mixture between the four tortillas, spreading the mushroom mixture evenly on one half of each tortilla. Top each with 1/4 cup shredded provolone and fold each tortilla in half.

4. Once preheated, spray panini press with olive or canola oil cooking spray. Put quesadillas on press, then pull down top and cook until quesadillas are browned and crisp, cheese is melted, and filling is hot, 3 to 6 minutes. (If using grill pan, put a heavy pan on top of quesadillas and cook, flipping once.) Remove from heat, slice into 2 or 4 wedges and serve warm.

Whole Wheat Tortillas

About a month ago, I tried making my own flour tortillas for the first time and was very happy with the results. After I find a white bread recipe that I like my next move is usually to start substituting whole wheat flour to make the recipe more healthy. I only swapped out 3/4 cup of the all-purpose flour but I'll probably try substituting more in future as well as adding a small amount of flax seeds for omega-3s.
 

Whole Wheat Tortillas
adapted from Rick Bayless' Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico
makes 12 tortillas

2 c. all-purpose flour, plus a little extra for rolling the tortillas

3/4 c. whole wheat flour
5 T. lard or vegetable shortening, or a mixture of the two
3/4 t. salt
about 3/4 c. very warm tap water

1. Make the dough.  Combine the two flours in a large mixing bowl, whisk to combine. Add the fat to the flour mixture and work the fat in with your fingers until completely incorporated. Dissolve the salt in the water, pour about 2/3 cup of it over the dry ingredients and immediately work it in with a fork; the dough will be in large clumps rather than a homogeneous mass. If all the dry ingredients haven't been dampened, add the rest of the liquid (plus a little more, if necessary). Scoop the dough onto your work surface and knead until smooth. It should be medium-stiff consistency -- definitely not firm, but not quite as soft as most bread dough either.

2. Rest the dough. Divide the dough into 12 portions and roll each into a ball. Set them on a plate, cover with plastic wrap and let rest at least 30 minutes (to make the dough less springy, easier to roll).

3. Roll and griddle-bake the tortillas. Heat an ungreased griddle or heavy skillet over medium to medium-high heat.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out a portion of the dough into an even 7-inch circle: Flatten a ball of dough, flour it, then roll forward and back across it; rotate a sixth of a turn and roll forward and back again; continue rotating and rolling until you reach a 7-inch circle, lightly flouring the tortilla and work surface from time to time.

Lay the tortilla on the hot griddle (you should hear a faint sizzle and see an almost immediate bubbling across the surface). After 30 to 45 seconds, when there are browned splotches underneath, flip it over. Bake 30 to 45 seconds more, until the other side is browned; don't overbake the tortilla or it will become crisp. Remove and wrap in a cloth napkin placed in a tortilla warmer. Roll and griddle-bake the remaining tortillas in the same manner and stacking them one on top of the other.

Corn Tortillas

As promised in my Flour Tortillas post, I made corn tortillas the next time we had tacos (this time they were chorizo and onion). Corn tortillas are either made from fresh masa, if you're lucky enough to have a tortilleria nearby, or masa harina, which is what I used. The only kind I found was Maseca, which I found at multiple grocery stores in the Mexican food section.

Like the flour tortillas, the homemade version is better than store-bought, but in this case the difference was much more dramatic. These actually taste like corn, instead of the tasteless corn-colored cardboard found in grocery stores (although there are more authentic brands that are decent). But these are more difficult to make than flour tortillas if you roll them out by hand like I did, since I don't have a tortilla press which every recipe recommends. Corn flour does not contain gluten as wheat flour does (gluten gives the dough structure), so the dough is much more likely to crack or tear as you roll it out, which is why recipes says to use a tortilla press. Although it was more work than the flour tortillas, I think it was worth it.

When reconstituting the masa harina to make the dough, I found it necessary to add more water than initially specified in the recipe (no surprise in this dry winter weather). You want your dough to be softer than Play-Doh, similar to a soft cookie dough, but not sticky. This dough dries out easily and it may be necessary to add water from time to time.


Corn Tortillas
from Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico by Rick Bayless

yield 15 tortillas

1 pound fresh masa for tortillas, store-bought or homemade OR
1 3/4 c. masa harina mixed with 1 c. plus 2 T. hot tap water

1. The dough. If using masa harina, mix it with the hot water, then knead until smooth, adding more water or more masa harina to achieve a very soft (but not sticky) consistency; cover with plastic and let rest 30 minutes. When you're ready to bake the tortillas, readjust the consistency of the fresh or reconstituted masa, then divide into 15 balls and cover with plastic.

2. Heating the griddle. Heat a large, ungreased, heave griddle or 2 heavy skillets: one end of the griddle (or one skillet) over medium-low, the other end (or other skillet) over medium to medium-high.

3. Pressing. Cut 2 squares of heavy plastic to fit the plates of your tortilla press. With the press open, place a square of plastic over the bottom plate, set a ball of dough in the center, cover with the second square of plastic, and gently flatten the dough between. Close the top plate and press down gently but firmly with the handle. Open, turn the tortilla 180 degrees, close and gently press again, to an even 1/16-inch thickness.

4. Unmolding. Open the press and peel off the top sheet of plastic. Flip the tortilla onto one hand, dough-side down, then, starting at one corner, gently peel off the remaining sheet of plastic.

5. Griddle-baking. Lay the tortilla onto the cooler end of the griddle (or cooler skillet). In about 20 seconds, when the tortilla loosens itself from the griddle (but the edges have not yet dried or curled), flip it over onto the hotter end of the griddle (or onto the hotter skillet). When lightly browned in spots underneath, 20 to 30 seconds more, flip a second time, back onto the side that was originally down. If the fire is properly hot, the tortilla will balloon up like pita bread. When lightly browned, another 20 to 30 seconds, remove from the griddle (it will completely deflate) and wrap in a towel. Press, unmold and bake the remaining balls of masa, placing each hot tortilla on top of the last and keeping the stack well wrapped.

6. Resting. Let the wrapped stack of tortillas rest for about 15 minutes to finish their cooking, soften, and become pliable.

Enjoy!

Flour Tortillas

Mexican food is probably my favorite kind of ethnic food, be it the Americanized version or the authentic, made-by-a-grandmother kind. The Mexican dish that most people probably eat is tacos, which I adore and is definitely one of my comfort foods. When I decided to put tacos on the menu tonight, I thought I should try making my own tortillas for the first time. I've watched enough episodes of Mexico: One Plate at a Time with Rick Bayless that I was anxious to try out making fresh tortillas. At first I went right to my primary cookbook, The Joy of Cooking, out of habit, but if I'm going to get authentic Mexican recipes, Rick Bayless is one of the best sources out there as he spent 6 years living in Mexico to research his first cookbook of authentic Mexican cuisine. He's also probably my favorite chef, although I can't help but be delighted to watch any episode of Julia and Jacques Cooking At Home or anything with Julia Child or Jacques Pepin.

I liked the fresh tortillas much better than store-bought, although the taste isn't drastically different. The texture is better and to me they just tasted less processed. I bet they'd be more flavorful if I'd used lard instead of vegetable shortening, but that isn't something I keep around.

This time my tacos were ground beef with onions and green peppers, topped with salsa, sour cream, cheese, and lettuce, thought if I'd thought of it earlier I would have thawed my chorizo instead, which is far better than ground beef in my opinion. Next time we have tacos, enchiladas or quesadillas I'm going to try making corn tortillas instead.

Flour Tortillas
from Rick Bayless' Authentic Mexican Cookbook

makes 12 tortillas

3/4 lb. (2.75 c.) all-purpose flour, plus a little extra for rolling the tortillas
5 T. lard or vegetable shortening, or a mixture of the two
3/4 t. salt
about 3/4 c. very warm tap water

1. Make the dough. Combine the flour and fat in a large mixing bowl, working in the fat with your fingers, until completely incorporated. Dissolve the salt in the water, pour about 2/3 cup of it over the dry ingredients and immediately work it in with a fork; the dough will be in large clumps rather than a homogeneous mass. If all the dry ingredients haven't been dampened, add the rest of the liquid (plus a little more, if necessary). Scoop the dough onto your work surface and knead until smooth. It should be medium-stiff consistency -- definitely not firm, but not quite as soft as most bread dough either.

2. Rest the dough. Divide the dough into 12 portions and roll each into a ball. Set them on a plate, cover with plastic wrap and let rest at least 30 minutes (to make the dough less springy, easier to roll).

3. Roll and griddle-bake the tortillas. Heat an ungreased griddle or heavy skillet over medium to medium-high heat.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out a portion of the dough into an even 7-inch circle: Flatten a ball of dough, flour it, then roll forward and back across it; rotate a sixth of a turn and roll forward and back again; continue rotating and rolling until you reach a 7-inch circle, lightly flouring the tortilla and work surface from time to time.

Lay the tortilla on the hot griddle (you should hear a faint sizzle and see an almost immediate bubbling across the surface). After 30 to 45 seconds, when there are browned splotches underneath, flip it over. Bake 30 to 45 seconds more, until the other side is browned; don't overbake the tortilla or it will become crisp. Remove and wrap in a cloth napkin placed in a tortilla warmer. Roll and griddle-bake the remaining tortillas in the same manner and stacking them one on top of the other.