Turnip, Leek, Potato, and Spinach Soup

Despite, or perhaps because of, it's simplicity, leek and potato soup is one of my favorites. Through some beautiful culinary alchemy, potatoes, leeks, butter, salt, and water turn in something magical that needs no further enhancement. But that certainly doesn't mean there isn't room for experimentation! This riff on classic pays homage to the classic Potage Parmentier without hiding the extra zing from the turnips or hint of earthy greens. It's surprisingly filling for such a light dish, able to become a meal with just a salad or a heartier one as a companion to your favorite sandwich. Tossing in some beans, cooked grains, or a poached egg (or any combination of the three) is my favorite way to fortify this recipe, and create a delicious, healthy meal out of the orphan ingredients in my fridge. The extra soup freezes beautifully, and there will still be plenty to save even after you dig in heartily.

Turnip, Leek, Potato, and Spinach Soup
adapted from the New York Times
makes 8 servings

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 large leeks, white and light green part only, halved lengthwise, cleaned and sliced or chopped
Salt to taste
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 pounds turnips, peeled and diced
1 large russet potato (about 3/4 pound), peeled and diced
2 quarts water, chicken stock, or vegetable stock
8 ounces baby spinach or kale, chopped
A bouquet garni made with a bay leaf and a couple of sprigs each thyme and parsley
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh tarragon and/or chives for garnish

1. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy soup pot over medium heat and add the onion, leeks and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 30 seconds to a minute. Add the turnips, potatoes, water or stock, salt to taste, and the bouquet garni. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer 45 minutes, or until the vegetables are very tender and the soup is fragrant.  During the last few minutes of cooking, add the spinach by handfuls, cooking until the just wilt down. Remove and discard the bouquet garni.

2. Blend the soup in batches in a blender (cover the top with a towel and hold it down to avoid hot splashes), or through a food mill fitted with the fine blade. The soup should be very smooth. Strain if desired. Return to the pot. Stir and taste. Adjust salt, add freshly ground pepper, and heat through. Serve in small bowls or espresso cups, garnished with chopped fresh tarragon and/or chives.

Spicy Tomatillo Soup

With a number of record low high temperatures in Wisconsin this week, you would think my gardens would go on strike. But despite their distinctly summer soul, my tomatillo plants are still generously gifting me with a respectable amount of fruit. It won't be all that long until I start picking up my winter with all its glorious roots, so I certainly don't object to eating up these lighter veggies for a while yet. I'll admit my tastes are drifting towards fall, falling victim to the siren song of all things apple and pumpkin, but my taste buds don't object to that dichotomy.

Despite being located on opposite sides of my yard, my cucumbers also missed the memo about the fall slow down, so I was happy to use up some of those as well. All the veggies keep this soup nice and light with low calorie yogurt creaminess making it gently filling. (For vegans, avocado would make a nice substitution). It can be as spicy as you like, depending on whether you remove the ribs and seeds from the peppers, balanced by the roasty garlic and acidic lime. Add only a little water if you'd like this as as light main course, but it can certainly be stretched to many side dishes if you dilute it further. 

My favorite season might be well on its way, but it's too early to completely turn my back on the light and spicy tastes of summer just yet. Bring it on garden! I'm still ready for you.

Spicy Tomatillo Soup
adapted from Martha Stewart
makes 4 servings

2 pounds tomatillos, hulled and washed
6 garlic cloves
1 to 2 jalapeño or serrano chiles
2 cups diced cucumber
1/2 cup roughly chopped onion
1/2 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1 cup homemade or low-sodium canned vegetable or chicken stock, skimmed of fat
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 cup plain yogurt
Water, to thin (optional)

1. Heat broiler. Place tomatillos, garlic, and serrano chile in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, and roast until tomatillos are soft and browned in spots, about 5 minutes. Turn all items; continue cooking until other side is soft and browned, about 5 minutes more. Remove from heat; let cool slightly.

2. Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack; let cool completely. Peel garlic, seed peppers, if desired, and place in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Add tomatillos and any accumulated juices along with cucumber, onion, cilantro, stock, lime juice, and salt; blend until mixture is smooth. Add yogurt and desired amount of water; process until they are just combined.

3. Transfer to a large bowl or plastic storage container; cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 2 hours. Serve cool, at room temperature, or slightly warm.

Simple Tomato Soup

It's hard to complain about my gardens producing too much, but it can to be challenging to make sure than none of what my moderately green thumb has cultivated goes to waste. But as is so often my move, when I've got a lot of something to use up, I turn to soup, which turns out to be the perfect move as the temperatures dipped sharply into fall this week.

This recipe is an ideal example of simple perfection. Don't get me wrong, I'm all about, fancy ingredients and techniques when they're called for, but sometimes all you need (or have time for) is the simplest of recipes. And fortunately for me, my tomatoes only needed that treatment. There's enough butter to be subtly rich, a touch of tomato paste up the umami factor, and herbs from the garden for a versatile freshness to make this a suitable side for almost anything.

If you do manage to have any of this left over, it freezes beautifully, saving a taste of late summer though the depths of winter. But in the crisp fall air, who can resist the siren song of grilled cheese and tomato soup? I know I can't, especially when I can toss a few slices of apple from a local orchard in with my ooey-goeey Wisconsin cheese.

Simple Tomato Soup
adapted from Food and Wine
makes 4 first course servings

3 tablespoons unsalted butter (or olive oil)
3/4 cup minced sweet onion, such as Vidalia
1 1/2 pounds tomatoes—peeled, seeded and chopped, with juices
1 teaspoon tomato paste
2 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth or stock
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs (basil, cilantro, parsley, etc.)

1. In a large saucepan, melt the butter. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juices, along with the tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add the broth  and season with salt and pepper. Simmer until the tomatoes are broken down, about 15 minutes. Add the fresh herbs and puree the soup until smooth.

Chilled Cucumber Avocado Dill Soup

While zucchini is the cucurbit that most often gets recognized for its bounty, the real all-star in my garden this summer is the humble cucumber. I've used them generously in sandwiches and salads, as a happy vehicle for dips, and even in beverages, but there's only so many a girl can eat before they turn from fresh and crunchy to sad and soft. I'm not growing pickling cucumbers, so the most obvious bulk preserving method is out, but fortunately there's not much that can't be turned into soup. The eight pounds of cucumbers required for this recipe might have seemed ridiculous to me at one time, but this year that wasn't even enough to temporarily exhaust my ever-renewing supply.

As you'd expect from something primarily composed of cucumbers, this is a delicate and refreshing soup, especially when generously flecked with fresh dill, also from my garden. It gets hints of sweetness and acidity from the honey and vinegar, and sparing touch of avocado makes it luxuriously creamy without adding any heaviness. Enriching with avocado instead of cream means this freezes well, so whether you need to grab quick lunches for the next few weeks or want to taste summer once the snow begins to fly, this soup has you covered.

Chilled Cucumber Avocado Dill Soup
adapted from Cooking Light
makes 6 servings

11 large cucumbers (about 8 pounds), divided $
1/4 cup honey, divided
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
1 ripe avocado, peeled and seeded
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
1/2 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
Dill sprigs (optional)
Hot sauce, such as Tapatio or Sriracha (optional)

1. Cut 5 cucumbers into 3-inch chunks. Place half of cucumber chunks and 2 tablespoons honey in a blender or food processor; process until smooth. Pour pureed cucumber mixture through a cheesecloth-lined sieve into a bowl. Repeat procedure with the remaining chunks. Cover and chill at least 8 hours.

2. Peel, seed (optional), and thinly slice remaining 6 cucumbers; place slices in a bowl. Add vinegar and remaining 2 tablespoons honey; toss well to coat. Cover and chill 8 hours or overnight.

3. Working with pureed cucumber mixture in sieve, press mixture lightly with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula to squeeze out juice; discard solids.

4. Place half of marinated cucumber slices, avocado, and 1 3/4 cups cucumber juice in a blender or food processor; process until smooth. Pour cucumber mixture into a bowl. Repeat procedure with remaining cucumber slices and 1 3/4 cups cucumber juice; reserve any remaining juice for another use. Stir in chopped dill, salt, and pepper, seasoning to taste. Divide soup between 6 bowls and garnish with dill sprigs and hot sauce, if desired

Fall Vegetable Soup with White Beans

While I can't say I'm enjoying these unseasonably cold temperatures, at least this enduring grip of winter means a prolonging of soup weather. I'm working hard to clear the freezer of all the soups and stews and other stick-to-your-bones fare, and these rescued meals are keeping me cozy and fed. The final portion of Stewed Cauliflower, Butternut Squash, and Tomatoes was part of my end-of-winter purge, appropriately transforming into this belly-filling bowl of soup.

The time invested prepping and slowly cooking those hearty vegetables is again clearly returned in this recipe with many elements of intense flavor come together quickly. The stewed vegetables bring a perfect balance of deep flavor and vinegary pop and the hearty helping of beans making it a satisfying meal. A sprinkling of croutons across the top start as a toasty, crispy bits, slowly disintegrating as they soak up the broth and meld into each thick, rich bite. A scant sprinkling of good Parmesan across the top creates a deep savoriness, gingerly bringing the perfect amount of umami to this vegetarian meal. (For the carnivores and hedonists out there, a bit of crumbled bacon would not be unwelcome as well.)

I've almost at the end of my rope when it comes to cold weather eating, but with such a meager time investment, I was absolutely delighted to chow down on this collection of diverse flavors - the perfect antidote to end-of-winter dinner fatigue.

Fall Vegetable Soup with White Beans
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 slice sourdough or rustic whole grain bread or roll, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

Kosher or sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

1 cup Stewed Cauliflower, Butternut Squash, and Tomatoes

3/4 cup chicken or vegetable stock or water, plus more if needed

1/2 cup cooked white beans, preferably homemade, drained and rinsed

Leaves from 3 or 4 sprigs thyme

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F.

2. Put the bread cubes on a small baking sheet, drizzle with the oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Arrange in a single layer and toast in the oven for 5 to 6 minutes, until very crisp and golden brown, watching closely to avoid burning them. Use tongs to turn over the bread cubes and toast for another 5 to 6 minutes to create evenly browned croutons. Remove from the oven.

3. Combine the stewed vegetables and stock in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook until hot, about 5 minutes.

4. Add the white beans and cook for a few minutes until heated through. Add more water if you want a thinner texture. Stir in the thyme. Taste and add salt and pepper, if desired.

5. Pour the soup into a bowl, add the croutons, sprinkle with the cheese, and eat.

Ribollita

It's a well-established fact that once I've acquired a beloved new cookbook, I can rarely restrain myself from getting a little obsessed. After pouring through each and every page, bookmarking as I go, how can I restrain myself? In continuing the Mollie Katzen recipe theme started earlier this week, I have another ready to go.

Ribollita is one of most delicious culinary creations of Tuscany, and like so many beloved dishes, originated as peasant fare. Literally meaning "reboiled", this dish began as a repurposing of the previous day's minestrone or vegetable soup, fortified with leftover bread. I'm fortunate enough to be deliberately preparing this meal rather than cobbling it together from leftovers, but I have no less appreciation of this affordable collection of humble vegetables melded into a hearty stew.

This meal is a labor of love and leisure, the kind of weekend project to let to lazily simmer on a Sunday afternoon while you mill about the house or relax with a good book. It might be tempting to short cut the process with some canned cannellinis, but much of flavor comes from the herb-infused beans and bean broth used later to cook the vegetables, so look to a different recipe for a quick ribollita. This can be streamlined a bit into a weeknight meal by preparing the beans the night before you'd like to serve the soup, making sure to reserve some of the bean broth as well. Each bite is herby and earthy and delicious down to the core in the vegan rendition, but the savory Parmesan takes it one more scrumptious step that my Dairyland origins wouldn't let me dream of omitting. Finally, a slice of rustic bread is absolutely imperative for staying honest to the peasant origins and more importantly, mopping up every last bit of beans, veggies, and broth.

Ribollita
adapted from The Heart of the Plate by Mollie Katzen
serves 6

For the beans:
1 cup dried cannellini beans, soaked for at least 4 hours (preferably overnight)
3 large garlic cloves, peeled and halved
3 fresh sage leaves
1 3-inch spring fresh rosemary
Several sprigs fresh thyme
1 medium Parmsan rind (up to 4 ounces; optional)

1. Drain the soaked beans and place them in a large pot along with enough fresh water to cover by at least 2 inches (3 inches is even better). Add the garlic and herbs and bring to a boil.

2. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook, partially covered, for 1 1/2 hours, or until the beans are as soft as they can get while still keeping their shape. (Make sure they are truly soft. No undercooked beans!) If you like, you can add the Parmesan ring about 45 minutes into the simmering.

3. Remove from the heat and drain in a strainer set over a large heatproof bowl, saving the cooking water. (Fish out the herbs and Parmesan rind, if using; it's okay to leave in the garlic.)

For the stew:
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups chopped onion (1 large)
2 celery stalks, diced
1 large carrot, cut into half circles about 1/8-inch thick or into bite-sized chunks
3/4 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
2 tablespoons minced or crushed garlic
1/2 pound green cabbage, cut into bite-size pieces (2 heaping cups)
1 large or 2 small bunches lacinato kale (1/2 pound total), stemmed and chopped fairly small (4 packed cups) or spinach or other hearty greens
Black pepper
About 6 slices artisan bread (day-old is fine), sch as ciabatta or Pugliese, toasted
Grated aged Parmesan, Pecorino, or Asiago (optional)

1. Place a soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat for about a minute, then add 2 tablespoons of the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently for 5 minutes, or until the onion begins to soften. Stir in the celery, carrot, 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, and 1 tablespoon of the garlic and cook for another 5 minutes, stirring often.

2. Stir in the cabbage, kale, and remaining 1 tablespoon garlic, sprinkling them with another 1/2 teaspoon salt as you go. The pot will be crowded at first, but the vegetables will cook down. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until all the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Add small amounts of the bean cooking water (1/2 cup at a time) if needed to prevent sticking, but otherwise try to force-cook the vegetables in their own moisture, adding as little water as possible.

3. When the vegetables are done to your liking, add the beans, stirring them in gently so they don't break. Add a little more bean-cooking water, if you wish. Cover again and cook for just a few more minutes. Taste to adjust the salt and add a good amount of black pepper.

4. Serve hot, drizzled with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, and topped with the toasted bread. If you want to enjoy a cheese-crusted experience, spoon the stew into ovenproof ceramic bowls (as you would with French onion soup), top with the bread sliced, sprinkle some cheese over the bread, and broil briefly.

Hearty Greens and Grains Soup with Yogurt

I am never without some sort of fresh greens in my fridge. I long ago abandoned lettuce for spinach or arugula in my salads and sandwiches, usually toss a handful in my smoothies, and it seems like I scarcely scrambled an egg or make an omelet without tossing in some hearty greens. As much as I love all those things, sometimes winter calls for something a little more warm and comforting, and that's when I start sneaking mass amounts of greens into my soups.

The internet abounds with reliable websites full of delicious recipes, but sometimes there's nothing better than flipping through a brand new cookbook, bookmarking recipes along the way. With all of those free resources I've become a lot more selective about what books I'll actually purchase, but when I saw Mollie Katzen's newest book on clearance (at TJ Maxx, of all places), I didn't hesitate for a second. I've long been a fan of the books of Moosewood Collective, and the ones I own are the source of several of my most-treasured recipes (e.g. Black Bean and Sweet Potato Hash). Mollie Katzen's recipes are the kind that make carnivores love vegetables and vegetarians celebrate their choice, ranging from the elegantly simple to elaborate afternoon-worthy projects. This recipe is the former, a simple combination of whole grains and hearty greens, simply seasoned, and enriched just enough with olive oil and yogurt. Be sure to add the yogurt gently at the end after it has cooled a bit, so it doesn't separate or curdle.

I made this with Earthbound Farms Power Deep Greens Blend and brown rice, but there's plenty of room for experimentation with other combinations of greens and grains. This soup is shockingly filling for the low calorie count and short list of healthy ingredients, so feel free fill up a giant bowl without any guilt.

Hearty Greens and Grains Soup with Yogurt
adapted from The Heart of the Plate by Mollie Katzen
makes 5 or 6 servings (as a side) or 2 to 3 as a main course

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups minced onion (1 large)
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
3/4 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
1 tablespoon minced or crushed garlic
1/2 pound (or more) fresh spinach or other hearty greens, washed, stemmed, and coarsely chopped
3 cups water or vegetable stock or low-sodium store-bought broth
1 cup cooked brown rice (or other whole grain like quinoa, barley, etc.)
1 cup plain yogurt, at room temperature
Fresh lemon juice, or to taste
Black pepper

1. Place a soup or Dutch oven over medium heat for about a minute, then add the olive oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the onion, cumin, turmeric, and 1/4 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring, for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the onion becomes soft. Add the garlic and another 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, reduce the heat to low, and continue to cook for another 5 minutes or so. Toss in the spinach plus the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Stir, then cover and cook over medium-low heat for 5 minutes longer.

2. Add the water or stock, bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook over the lowest possible heat for 10 minutes.

3. Turn off the heat, let cool slightly, and stir in the rice and yogurt. Add lemon juice, a splash a time, to taste. Taste again to adjust the salt and add black pepper to your liking. It's now ready to serve.

Quick Tomato, White Bean, Sweet Potato, and Kale Soup

When you live in Wisconsin, the first day of the year in the fifties is a major victory. We air out the house even when there's a heavy covering of snow on the ground, drive around with the windows rolled down, and a few brave souls will don shorts for the occasion. Unfortunately, that lasted but one fleeting day this week, but it has definitely given me a metaphorical taste for spring. I'm more than ready to begin to transition to my literal tastes to more spring-like fare, as the days where I'll be craving a massive, piping hot, bowl of soup are happily numbered.

But while I'm still looking out on a yard full of snow, I'm happy to keep indulging that craving. There are plenty of white bean and kale soup recipes available, but my riff on a New York Times recipe is the first I've seen with sweet potatoes, confirming my theory those orange-fleshed beauties are nearly always a great substitution. Creamy white beans and tender kale go just as well with that delicious tuber as its blander and less nutritious cousin, perfectly finished with a sprinkling of salty, nutty Parmesan cheese. Fresh off the stove, there's no doubt it's a wonderful meal, but flavors meld and deepen over a day or two in the fridge, and fare pretty well when you pluck a serving from the freezer days or weeks later.

Quick Tomato, White Bean, Sweet Potato, and Kale Soup

adapted from the New York Times

serves 4 to 6

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 large carrot, chopped
1 stick celery, chopped (optional)
Salt to taste
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 14-ounce can chopped tomatoes, with juice
6 cups water
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon oregano
1 medium sweet potato (about 6 to 8 ounces), scrubbed and diced
A bouquet garni made with a bay leaf, a couple of sprigs each parsley and thyme, and a Parmesan rind (optional – but it does add flavor; use what you have for this)
1/2 pound kale, stemmed, washed thoroughly, and chopped or cut in slivers (4 cups chopped)
1 can white beans, drained and rinsed
Freshly ground pepper
Lemon juice, to taste
Grated Parmesan for serving (optional)

1. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large, heavy soup pot and add the onion, carrot, and celery and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are tender, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the tomatoes and juice from the can, add another pinch of salt and cook, stirring often, for 5 to 10 minutes, until the tomatoes have cooked down slightly.

2. Add the water, tomato paste, oregano, sweet potato, and salt to taste. Bring to a boil, add the bouquet garni, cover and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, until the sweet potatoes are just about tender.

3. Add the kale and simmer another 10 minutes, until the kale and sweet potatoes are tender and the soup is fragrant. Taste, adjust salt, and add pepper and lemon juice to taste. Stir in the beans and heat through for 5 minutes. Serve, sprinkling some Parmesan over each bowl.

Black Bean Soup with Toasted Coconut and Pepitas

It seems I've finally come to the end of my concentrated soup base experiment. There's been sweet potato soups and black bean soups galore, concluding with my personal spin on Joe Yonan's black bean soup base. I'll admit that I plagarized from myself a bit, again using rich and crunchy toasted coconut that worked so well with the sweet potato variety, this time swapping out the almonds for a smattering of pumpkin seeds. The creamy, spicy base really pops in contrast to the rich and toasty coconut and pepitas, the flavors and textures contrasting and complementing simultaneously. Although I didn't have any in the fridge to add this time, spinach or other hearty greens would be a nice nutritional boost, as with sweet potato soup. If you can't imagine eating a bowl of soup crusty bread, a roll, or crackers for dunking, I recommend a hearty handful of tortilla chips to get you through this bowl.

Now that I've made my way through all of Joe Yonan's recipes with concentrated soup base, I'm on to tackle his pasta sauce-based recipes, which extend far beyond dressing up some penne. While I'll look back fondly on this last culinary adventure, I'm excited to move on to the next one.

Black Bean Soup with Toasted Coconut and Pumpkin Seeds
serves 1

1 to 1 1/2 cups Spicy Black Bean Soup Base (see below)
Up to 1/2 cup water, or chicken, shrimp, or vegetable stock
Kosher or sea salt

1 tablespoon raw pepitas (pumpkin seeds)

1 tablespoon unsweetened flaked coconut

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the soup base. Whisk in enough stockor water to reach desired consistency. Cook for a few minutes to heat the soup through. Taste and add more salt, if desired. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot while you make the topping.

2. Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pepitas and coconut and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are fragrant and lightly browned, about 4 to 5 minutes.

3. Pour the soup into a serving bowl, top with the pepitas and coconut, and serve warm.
Spicy Black Bean Soup Base
from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
makes 4 to 5 cups

2 dried ancho, guajillo, or New Mexico chiles, or more to taste
1/2 pound dried black beans (1 heaping cup)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 shallot loves or 1/2 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, plus more as needed

1. Tear, break, or use scissors to cut the anchos into small strips or pieces. Combine them with the bean in a large bowl and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Let soak for at least 6 hours or overnight.

2. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery shallots, garlic, cinnamon, and allspice. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook the vegetables slowly until they start to become tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the beans, chiles, their soaking liquid, and enough water to cover the beans by 1 inch. Increase the heat to high to bring the contents to a boil. Then decrease the heat to low so that the liquid is at a bare simmer.

4. Cover and gently cook until the beans are very tender, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the beans. Add the salt, cook for a few more minutes, then let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup, then taste and adjust the salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can puree it in a blender or food processor. If you are using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the soup.

6. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate up to 1 week, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags, pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Curried Coconut Carrot Soup

I've been on a both a curry and coconut kick lately (what a perfect pair!), leaving my freezer still bursting with the fruits of my labor. I tend to cycle through culinary phases, moving on once I've saturated my taste buds. Luckily for me, curry is a such a broad category that I've managed to keep my interest piqued while exploring a variety of curry dishes. Perhaps it's because I enjoy the convenience of this delicious spice blend or because I'm trying to forget I love the frozen north, but it seems scarcely a day has gone by recently without a curry-laced meal hitting my plate.

And it's for good reason, because as this experiment continues to prove, curry is a root vegetable's best friend. Curry spices are warm and inviting, but vibrant and interesting, elevating what could be a plain and heavy dish into an exciting meal. There's no great revelation in this recipe, but the infusion of coconut from the cooking oil and coconut milk adds a subtle extra touch that makes this a little more special than your average curried coconut soup (and there are a lot of recipes out there). Coconut on top of coconut is extra rich and luxurious and allows the soup to stand up to plenty of heat if you like to load it up with hot sauce, as I do (I highly recommend Chipotle Tabasco here). Full-fat coconut milk is a balanced choice, but you can opt for the light variety if you must save calories, or even coconut cream for an over-the-top version.

Curried Coconut Carrot Soup

adapted from The Kitchn
serves 6 to 8

2 tablespoons coconut oil
1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped
6 cups carrots, scrubbed and roughly chopped
1 quart cups vegetable or chicken stock
One 15-ounce can full-fat coconut milk
1 1/2 tablespoons freshly chopped ginger root
1 tablespoon curry powder
1/2 teaspoon chili flakes
Salt and pepper to taste
Yogurt, for garnish (optional)
Cilantro, for garnish (optional)
Hot sauce, for garnish (optional)

1. Heat the coconut oil in a large soup pot and add the onions. Sweat the onions on medium heat for about 7 minutes. Add the carrots and cook for another 5 minutes. Pour in the stock and coconut milk. Add the ginger, curry powder and chili flakes. Put a lid on the pot and cook until the carrots are softened, about 10 or 15 minutes.

2. When carrots are soft, carefully blend the soup in batches in a blender (use a towel to hold the lid down firmly) or use an immersion hand blender and puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper and garnish with yogurt, cilantro, and hot sauce, if desired.

Black Bean Soup with Seared Scallops or Shrimp and Green Salsa

The idea of concentrated soup base just isn't getting old, and as I suspected, this series of black bean soups is just as delicious as the sweet potato one. The sweet potato soups may have explored a more diverse spectrum of flavors, but this black bean soup base has lent itself exceptionally to Mexican-inspired dishes. It was first put to good use in a spicy tortilla variation, now topped generously with tender seafood and an exceptionally fresh salsa. The contrast between the the hearty soup and the fresh salsa is striking, and in the best possible way. Each bite of the black bean soup is thick and silky, punctuated perfectly by he crunchy electric green salsa. The heat from the ancho chiles in the base is subtle and smooth, but the salsa brings a bright and assertive heat of its own, tempered just enough by the creamy avocado. This filling bowl is certainly a meal on its own, but a handful of tortilla chips are an ideal final touch, perfect for crumbling over the top or scooping up generous bites.

Black Bean Soup with Seared Scallops or Shrimp and Green Salsa

adpated from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan

serves 1

1 to 1 1/2 cups Spicy Black Bean Soup Base (see below), defrosted if frozen

Up to 1/2 cup water or chicken or vegetable stock

1/2 to 1 serrano or jalapeno chile

1/4 barely ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 small tomatillo, husk removed, rinsed, and cut into 1/2-inch slices

1 very small shallot love, finely chopped

Finely grated zest of 1 lime

Juice of 1/2 lime

1 teaspon agave nectar or honey

3 large sea scallops (about 3 ounces), or 3 ounces large to extra-large shrimp

Kosher or sea salt

1 tablespoon peanut, vegetable, or canola oil

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the soup base, then whisk in enough water or stock to reach your desired consistency. Cook for a few minutes to heat the soup through, then decrease the heat to lovw, cover, and keep it hot while you make your topping.

2. Remove the stem from the serrano and scrape out the ribs and seeds, reserving the seeds. Finely chop half the serrano, then transfer it to a small bowl. Add the avocado, tomatillo, shallot, cilantr, lime zest and juice, and agave nectar; stir to combine. Taste, and if you want the salsa spicier, add some of the serrano seeds and/or the other half of the serrano, finely chopped. 

3. Remove the large side muscle from the scallops. Then, unless they're dry-packed scallops, rinse them and thoroughly pat dry. Season the scallops with salt on each side.

4. Pour the oil into a medium skillet over medium-high heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the scallops or shrimp, making sure they aren't touching each other. Sear until they have a 1/4-inch-deep golden crust, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn them over and sear on the other side for another minute or so. Scallops should still be slightly springy to the touch,and you should be able to tell on the sides that the middle is still slightly translucent. Transfer them to a plate.

5. Ladle the soup into a wide, shallow bowl, top the salsa and then the scallops, and eat.

Spicy Black Bean Soup Base
from Joe Yonan's Serve Yourself
makes 4 to 5 cups

2 dried ancho, guajillo, or New Mexico chiles, or more to taste
1/2 pound dried black beans (1 heaping cup)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 shallot loves or 1/2 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, plus more as needed

1. Tear, break, or use scissors to cut the anchos into small strips or pieces. Combine them with the bean in a large bowl and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Let soak for at least 6 hours or overnight.

2. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery shallots, garlic, cinnamon, and allspice. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook the vegetables slowly until they start to become tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the beans, chiles, their soaking liquid, and enough water to cover the beans by 1 inch. Increase the heat to high to bring the contents to a boil. Then decrease the heat to low so that the liquid is at a bare simmer.

4. Cover and gently cook until the beans are very tender, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the beans. Add the salt, cook for a few more minutes, then let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup, then taste and adjust the salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can puree it in a blender or food processor. If you are using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the soup.

6. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate up to 1 week, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags, pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Black Bean Tortilla Soup with Shrimp and Corn

As promised, as soon as I was finished with my batch of sweet potato soup base, I immediately moved on to the black bean variety. The culinary memories of chorizo, chickpeas, and kale, orange and smoky pecans, and spinach, coconut, and almonds, reside fondly in my memory, but I was excited to move on to this new recipe. Although it was a transition out of my recent sweet potato obsession, this was just the kick my tastebuds had been craving.

Sweet potato soup was all silky comfort, but this bowl of creaminess comes with plenty of heat. Ancho chiles infuse the base with sweetness and spiciness, but neither the flavor or the heat of the chiles overpowers the soup. The base is delicious on its own, with a simple swirl of creme fraiche, or loaded up with all the fixings of good chili, but this elaborate concoction is even more suburb. The light shrimp, tomatoes, and corn are the perfect fresh addition to the hearty black beans, sour cream adds a subtle, luxurious touch with the crispy tortilla strips providing the perfect textural contrast. Toeing the line between hearty and light, this complete meal in a bowl is a beautiful transition between winter and spring.

Black Bean Tortilla Soup with Shrimp and Corn
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 to 1 1/2 cups Spicy Black Bean Soup Base (see below)
Up to 1/2 cup corn broth, water, or chicken, shrimp, or vegetable stock
Kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 jalapeno or serrano chile
1 or 2 corn tortillas, preferably homemade
Kernels from one ear fresh corn (about 3/4 cup), or 1/2 cup frozen corn
2 to 3 ounces very small shrimp or medium to large shrimp, cut into small pieces
8 small cherry tomatoes, quartered, or 2 plum tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch pieces or 1/2 cup diced tomatoes
1/2 lime
2 tablespoons sour cream, creme fraiche, or yogurt
1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the soup base. Whisk in enough broth, stock, or water to reach desired consistency. Cook for a few minutes to heat the soup through. Taste and add more salt, if desired. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot while you make the topping.

2. Pour half of the oil into a medium skillet over medium heat. Remove the stem from the from the jalapeno and scrap out the ribs and seeds, reserving the seeds. Finely chop the chile and add it to the skillet. Cut the tortilla in half and cut into slices. Add to the skillet and saute until the tortillas are crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer tortillas and chile to a serving bowl.

3. Add the remaining oil to the pan, then add the corn, shrimp, and tomatoes to the skillet. Season with salt and saute just until the shrimp are opaque and the corn turns bright yellow 1 to 4 minutes, depending o the size of the shrimp.

4. Transfer the corn mixture to the serving bowl and pour in the black bean soup base. Squeeze the lime half over the top, spoon on sour cream, sprinkle with crisped tortillas, chile, and cilantro, and eat.

Spicy Black Bean Soup Base
from Joe Yonan's Serve Yourself
makes 4 to 5 cups

2 dried ancho, guajillo, or New Mexico chiles, or more to taste
1/2 pound dried black beans (1 heaping cup)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 shallot loves or 1/2 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, plus more as needed

1. Tear, break, or use scissors to cut the anchos into small strips or pieces. Combine them with the bean in a large bowl and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Let soak for at least 6 hours or overnight.

2. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery shallots, garlic, cinnamon, and allspice. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook the vegetables slowly until they start to become tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the beans, chiles, their soaking liquid, and enough water to cover the beans by 1 inch. Increase the heat to high to bring the contents to a boil. Then decrease the heat to low so that the liquid is at a bare simmer.

4. Cover and gently cook until the beans are very tender, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the beans. Add the salt, cook for a few more minutes, then let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup, then taste and adjust the salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can puree it in a blender or food processor. If you are using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the soup.

6. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate up to 1 week, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags, pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Curried Lentil Soup

I'm lazy when it comes to beans, even though they're a staple of my diet. Yes, I could buy an entire pound of dried beans for just a couple dollars, but that requires planning to soak them overnight and setting aside few hours to cook, portion, and freeze a big batch when I'm usually just looking to throw a handful on a salad or in a wrap. I end up biting the bullet and spending the same for a can that I could for an entire pound, all the while thinking it is the less economical and healthy option. But with lentils there's no planning ahead required, as these dried legumes transform from crunchy discs to tender flavor sponges in less than half an hour, the perfect choice for a quick and hearty vegetarian dinner.

Lentils may get a bit of bad wrap for being bland hippie food, but they are an eager canvas for all manner of different flavors like the wonderful sweet and savory spice blend of curry powder. Chickpea puree makes the soup thick and rich with the yogurt adding the perfect creamy, acidic accent. A sprinkling of scallions is just the fresh touch  this soup needs, and, at least for me, it's not quite finished without a little bit of het (I especially like chipotle Tabasco sauce here). Add a salad and piece of naan or pita for a complete dinner or serve over brown rice or quinoa for an even heartier bowl of comfort.

Curried Lentil Soup

adapted from Bon Appetit

serves 4

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, chopped, divided
2 tablespoons (or more) curry powder
1 cup French green lentils
4 1/4 cups (or more) water, divided
1 15- to 16-ounce can chickpeas (garbanzo beans), drained, rinsed
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter
2 green onions, thinly sliced, for serving (optional)
Yogurt, sour cream, or creme fraiche, for serving (optional)

1 lemon, cut into 6 wedges, for serving (optional)

1. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onion and carrot; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook until onion is translucent, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes. Add half of chopped garlic; stir until vegetables are soft but not brown, about 4 minutes longer. Add 2 tablespoons curry powder; stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add lentils and 4 cups water. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Increase heat and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium; simmer until lentils are tender, about 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, puree chickpeas, lemon juice, 1/4 cup water, remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and remaining garlic in processor.

3. Add chickpea puree and butter to lentil soup. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and additional curry powder, if desired. Add water by 1/4 cupfuls to thin to desired consistency. DO AHEAD: soup can be made up to 1 day ahead. Cool, cover, and refrigerate. Rewarm before continuing.

4. Divide soup among bowls. Garnish with thinly sliced green onions and yogurt and a squeeze of fresh lemon, if desired.

Sweet Potato, Spinach, and Coconut Soup with Toasted Coconut and Almonds

Joe Yonan showed me how great sweet potato soup can be with greens and toasted nuts. And now I'm here to tell you it's great with both. I know I can't stop raving about it, but this will be the last you hear from me on this sweet potato soup, since I've enjoyed the basic version, two of Yonan's riffs, and now my own custom creation.

One of the greatest lessons I've relearned from this series of soups is to go beyond infusing the base with flavor and top it with something special as well. The rich and silky foundation, swirled with tender greens, would be delicious on its own, but it's the toasty crunch on top that makes the soup really extraordinary. My culinary obsessions ebb and flow, and because I'm currently occupied with incorporating all manner of coconut products into as many meals as possible, I'm quite pleased with the layered coconut flavor and texture this recipe achieves.

I've enthusiastically enjoyed each of the sweet potato soup variations, but I can't wait to move on Yonan's other concentrated soup base recipe - spicy black bean. After all those sweet and silky bites, I think I'm ready for a little heat.

Sweet Potato, Spinach, and Coconut Soup with Toasted Coconut and Almonds
makes 1 serving

1 cup Sweet Potato Soup Base, defrosted if frozen (see recipe below)
1/4 cup coconut milk (or coconut cream, for an even richer soup)
1/4 cup water or vegetable stock, or additional coconut milk, plus more as needed

2 ounces baby spinach or kale
Kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoons sliced almonds

1 tablespoon unsweetened coconut flakes

1. Pour the soup base into a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the orange juice and water, adding more water if you want a thinner consistency. Cook until the soup is bubbling hot, 3 to 4 minutes. Add spinach and cook until it is wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Taste and add salt if needed. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot.

2. Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the almonds and coconut and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are fragrant and lightly browned, about 4 to 5 minutes.

3. Pour the soup into a serving bowl, top with the almonds and coconut, and serve warm.

Sweet Potato Soup Base
from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
makes about 4 cups

2 (10- to 12-ounce) sweet potatoes
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 celery stalk, thinly sliced
1 small leek, white and pale greens, thinly sliced
2 sprigs thyme
Kosher or sea salt
Pinch of curry powder
2 cups light chicken or vegetable stock, warmed

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.

2. Use a fork or sharp knife to prick the sweet potatoes in several places. Place on a piece of aluminum foil
and bake until the sweet potatoes are tender and can be easily squeezed, 60 to 75 minutes.
(Alternatively, to speed up the process, microwave the pricked sweet potatoes on High for 1 minute,
then carefully transfer to the oven on a piece of foil. Bake until the potatoes are tender, 30 to 45
minutes.)

3. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the carrots,
celery, leek, thyme, and a pinch of salt. Stir to combine well, then decrease the heat to low, cover the
pot, and allow the vegetables to sweat in their own juices until very soft, 10 to 15 minutes. (Take care
not to allow the vegetables to burn.)

4. Scrape into the saucepan the soft flesh from the roasted sweet potatoes, add the curry powder, and stir
to combine, mashing the sweet potato flesh with a spoon. The mixture will be chunky. Stir in the stock
and combine well. Bring the mixture to a boil, then decrease the heat so the mixture gently simmers, and
cook, covered but with the lid slightly ajar, for about 15 minutes to let the flavors meld. Allow the mixture
to cool slightly, then remove and discard the thyme.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup base, which will be very thick. (Alternatively, you
can puree it in a blender or food processor. If using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the
lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the
soup.) Taste and add salt if needed.

6. Let the soup base cool to room temperature. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate
for up to 2 weeks, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags,
pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Sweet Potato and Orange Soup with Smoky Pecans

I may sound like a broken record, but I just can't say enough good things about Joe Yonan's cookbooks. His easy and delicious recipes make each meal something to look forward to, even when my dining companions are just the characters in a novel I'm reading. Making a concentrated soup base to switch up with each meal is an absolutely genius way to both plan ahead and decide on the fly what have for dinner, and as I predicted, my second foray into that territory was just as wonderful as the first.

The sweet potato soup base, as its name would imply, has an inherent sweetness, but thinning it with orange juice adds an extra nuanced layer balanced with enough acidity to keep it from becoming cloying. Creme fraiche and the spiced oil add richness, along with their respective tanginess and smokiness, with a final accent of toasted pecans to contrast the sumptuously silky soup. Each ingredient is a delightful touch even solo, but together they achieve a sublime, delicious balance.

After enjoying the soup base and two variations, I'm definitely ready to but my personal touch on the final portion in my freezer. And after that's gone, it's on to spicy black bean soup base!

Sweet Potato and Orange Soup with Smoky Pecans
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
makes 1 serving

1 cup Sweet Potato Soup Base, defrosted if frozen (see recipe below)
1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1/4 cup water or vegetable stock, plus more as needed
Kosher or sea salt
2 tablespoons pecan halves
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon pimenton (smoked Spanish paprika) or ground chipotle chile
2 tablespoons creme fraiche, sour cream, or yogurt, whisked until smooth
Finely grated zest of 1 orange

1. Pour the soup base into a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the orange juice and water, adding more water if you want a thinner consistency. Cook until the soup is bubbling hot, 3 to 4 minutes. Taste and add salt if needed. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot.

2. Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pecans and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are fragrant and start to darken, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour in the oil, stir in the pimenton, and cook for another 30 seconds to dissolve the spice. Use a heatproof spatula to scrape the spiced oil and pecans into a small bowl.

3. Pour the soup into a serving bowl, dollop the crème fraîche in the middle, and top with the pecans and spiced oil. Sprinkle the orange zest on top, and eat.

Sweet Potato Soup Base
from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
makes about 4 cups

2 (10- to 12-ounce) sweet potatoes
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 celery stalk, thinly sliced
1 small leek, white and pale greens, thinly sliced
2 sprigs thyme
Kosher or sea salt
Pinch of curry powder
2 cups light chicken or vegetable stock, warmed

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.

2. Use a fork or sharp knife to prick the sweet potatoes in several places. Place on a piece of aluminum foil
and bake until the sweet potatoes are tender and can be easily squeezed, 60 to 75 minutes.
(Alternatively, to speed up the process, microwave the pricked sweet potatoes on High for 1 minute,
then carefully transfer to the oven on a piece of foil. Bake until the potatoes are tender, 30 to 45
minutes.)

3. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the carrots,
celery, leek, thyme, and a pinch of salt. Stir to combine well, then decrease the heat to low, cover the
pot, and allow the vegetables to sweat in their own juices until very soft, 10 to 15 minutes. (Take care
not to allow the vegetables to burn.)

4. Scrape into the saucepan the soft flesh from the roasted sweet potatoes, add the curry powder, and stir
to combine, mashing the sweet potato flesh with a spoon. The mixture will be chunky. Stir in the stock
and combine well. Bring the mixture to a boil, then decrease the heat so the mixture gently simmers, and
cook, covered but with the lid slightly ajar, for about 15 minutes to let the flavors meld. Allow the mixture
to cool slightly, then remove and discard the thyme.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup base, which will be very thick. (Alternatively, you
can puree it in a blender or food processor. If using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the
lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the
soup.) Taste and add salt if needed.

6. Let the soup base cool to room temperature. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate
for up to 2 weeks, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags,
pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Sweet Potato Soup with Chorizo, Chickpeas, and Kale

One of the most genius things I've gleaned from my time pouring through Joe Yonan's cookbooks recently is the idea of making a concentrated soup base. Invest a little extra time one day, and you'll have a freezer full of flavorful foundation for diluting and dressing up at dinner time. This sweet potato soup base, while delicious all on its own, becomes something truly spectacular with a topping of savory chorizo, crispy chickpeas, and earthy kale. Rendering the fat from the chorizo quickly infuses the chickpeas and kale with flavor, creating the perfect crispy, spicy topping for the sweet and silky soup. This soup deftly balances indulgent and healthy elements, but if you absolutely have to cut back or are a vegetarian, you can crisp up the chickpeas and kale in olive oil instead.

With one more sweet potato soup left in Yonan's book for me to try, I hardly wait to break the next portion out of the freezer - if it's half as successful as this variation, I'm guaranteed to savor every bite. Now to decide what personal touch I'm going to put on the final serving...

Sweet Potato Soup with Chorizo, Chickpeas, and Kale
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 cup Sweet Potato Soup Base, defrosted if frozen (see below)
½ to ¾ cup water or vegetable stock
1 (3- or 4-ounce) link fresh Mexican chorizo
1/3 cup cooked chickpeas, preferably homemade, rinsed and drained
4 or 5 leaves kale, stripped from the stem and torn into bite-size pieces

1. Pour the soup base into a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in ½ cup of the water and cook until the soup is bubbling hot, 3 to 4 minutes. Add more water if you want the soup thinner. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot.

2. Heat a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Slice through the chorizo casing and squeeze the sausage into the skillet (or cut into small pieces). Cook, breaking it up with a spoon, until the chorizo’s fat starts to melt, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the chickpeas and cook until the chorizo and chickpeas brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the kale and stir-fry until the kale wilts slightly, brightens in color, and gets a few crunchy edges, 2 to 5 minutes.

3. Pour the soup base into a soup bowl, top with the chorizo mixture, and eat.

Sweet Potato Soup Base
from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
makes about 4 cups

2 (10- to 12-ounce) sweet potatoes
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 celery stalk, thinly sliced
1 small leek, white and pale greens, thinly sliced
2 sprigs thyme
Kosher or sea salt
Pinch of curry powder
2 cups light chicken or vegetable stock, warmed

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.

2. Use a fork or sharp knife to prick the sweet potatoes in several places. Place on a piece of aluminum foil
and bake until the sweet potatoes are tender and can be easily squeezed, 60 to 75 minutes.
(Alternatively, to speed up the process, microwave the pricked sweet potatoes on High for 1 minute,
then carefully transfer to the oven on a piece of foil. Bake until the potatoes are tender, 30 to 45
minutes.)

3. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the carrots,
celery, leek, thyme, and a pinch of salt. Stir to combine well, then decrease the heat to low, cover the
pot, and allow the vegetables to sweat in their own juices until very soft, 10 to 15 minutes. (Take care
not to allow the vegetables to burn.)

4. Scrape into the saucepan the soft flesh from the roasted sweet potatoes, add the curry powder, and stir
to combine, mashing the sweet potato flesh with a spoon. The mixture will be chunky. Stir in the stock
and combine well. Bring the mixture to a boil, then decrease the heat so the mixture gently simmers, and
cook, covered but with the lid slightly ajar, for about 15 minutes to let the flavors meld. Allow the mixture
to cool slightly, then remove and discard the thyme.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup base, which will be very thick. (Alternatively, you
can puree it in a blender or food processor. If using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the
lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the
soup.) Taste and add salt if needed.

6. Let the soup base cool to room temperature. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate
for up to 2 weeks, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags,
pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Black Bean, Sweet Potato and Quinoa Chili

If I had one complaint about my wonderful winter CSA from Crossroads Community Farm, it would be that it leads me to eat way more potatoes than I ordinarily would. I can't bear the thought of wasting any of that delicious organic produce, so I cook up every one an but after I'm done, I find myself craving sweet potatoes, which had a much more modest presence in my CSA box. Even barring any nutritional considerations, I'll pick the sweet potato option over the regular potato option any day.

A hearty bowl of Black Bean, Quinoa, and Spinach Stew on New Year's Day definitely whetted my appetite for the black bean and quinoa pairing and I can't turn down the perfect combination of black beans and sweet potatoes. This chili is the perfect blending of those happy pairs, with all of the spicy, hearty goodness of the traditional bean and meat varieties, and the added nutrition and flavor of sweet potatoes and quinoa. Chili con carne it's not, but this vegetarian delight will fill your belly just as well, especially when served with a hearty piece of corn bread. To save some of this satisfying meal for a rainy (or should I say snowy?) day, portion and store any leftovers in the freezer.

Black Bean, Sweet Potato and Quinoa Chili
adapted from The Kitchn
serves 4-6

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, chopped
5 garlic cloves, chopped
1 1 /2 tablespoons chili powder
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 14.5-ounce can fire-roasted tomatoes
1 chipotle chile from canned chipotle chiles in adobo, minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 teaspoons kosher salt + more to taste
1 1 /2 cups sweet potatoes (2-3 small), cut into 1 /2-inch cubes
1 /4 cup quinoa, rinsed and drained
2 cups vegetable or chicken broth/stock or water
2 14.5-ounce cans low-sodium black beans, rinsed and drained
Sour cream or yogurt, to top (optional)
Shredded cheddar cheese, to top (optional)
Green onions, chopped, to top (optional)
Fresh cilantro, chopped, to top (optional)

1. Heat the oil in heavy large pot ov er medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and beginning to brown, 6-7 minutes. Add garlic, chili powder, and coriander and stir. Cook together for 1 minute.

2. Stir in the tomatoes with their juices, beans, chipotle pepper, oregano, sweet potatoes, quinoa, and broth and bring mixture to a boil. Place the pot's lid back on slightly ajar and allow to simmer on low heat until the beans are soft and the sweet potatoes and quinoa are just cooked through, adding more water or broth as necessary if the chili becomes too thick. Just before the quinoa and sweet potatoes are done, add beans and stir to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve hot with your choice of toppings.

Leek and Potato Soup with Winter Greens

Even at its most basic, potato leek soup is thing of beauty. Some sort of alchemy occurs when those two elements come together with just a little fat, salt, and water and the result is positively addictive. But that doesn't mean it's not worth tinkering with. This version is a slightly elevated version of  the basic, starting with an intensely flavored, silky homemade stock. Making stock from scratch certainly lengthens the time from fridge to table, but there's plenty of time for all the other prep work while it slowly simmers on the stove. The addition of fresh spinach or other winter greens ups the nutrition factor and lightens the body, with the final finishing touches of bright lemon juice and fresh dill uniting all the elements. A classic with a little hint of something extra, this soup is simple, soul-warming, from-scratch cookery at its finest. And that's exactly what you need when winter rears its ugly head.

Leek and Potato Soup with Winter Greens
adapted from Moosewood Restaurant New Classics
serves 6 to 8

10 cups water
3 leeks, sliced down the center and well-rinsed
1 1/2 cups peeled and coarsely chopped carrots
4 cups coarsely chopped potatoes
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups baby spinach, kale, or Swiss chard
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill (or 2 teaspoon dried)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Add water to a large soup pot. Cut the dark green tops off the leeks, rinse well to remove any hidden sand, and stir them into the pot. Add the carrots, about half of the potatoes, the thyme, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer the stock for about 45 minutes.

2. While the stock simmers, remove the root ends from the leeks, peel of the outermost later, and chop the white and most tender green parts.

3. In a large sup pot, saute the leeks in olive oil until tender, about 10 to 15 minutes. Strain the stock and add it to the fennel and leeks. Add the rest of the potatoes and simmer until soft, about 15 minutes. Stir in the spinach, dill, lemon juice, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

4. Puree the soup in batches in a blender or with an immersion blender until smooth and silky. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve.

Pureed Beet Soup

I celebrated the way most Americans do this past weekend - by stuffing myself to the gills. Vegetables were certainly part of the feasting, but a far higher percentage of my diet was dedicated to meat and starches than usual, so a veggie-packed week is definitely in order the balance things back out. Beets are the last vegetable remaining in any great quantity in my fridge before my next CSA delivery on Wednesday, and a hearty beet soup is the perfect remedy to both of those problems.

Beets are a somewhat polarizing vegetable, and one I only came to appreciate in adulthood. While there can certainly be a soil-like nuance, when cooked properly they are a wonderful balance of earthy and sweet. This soup is beautifully simple, the classic pureed soup formula exploiting both of those elements, with the oft-forgotten final addition of acid that is so important to letting all the flavors bloom. Vegans or those really looking to cut back can omit the sour cream, but that final touch is what really enriches this soup and makes it hearty enough for a light winter meal.

Pureed Beet Soup
adapted from Martha Stewart
serves 4 to 6




2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, coarsely chopped
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 pounds beets, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 can (14 1/2 ounces) reduced-sodium vegetable or chicken broth
1 to 3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice or red wine vinegar
Sour cream, for serving (optional)

1. In a large Dutch oven or pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion. Season with salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 to 7 minutes.

2. Add beets, broth, and enough water (4 to 5 cups) to cover. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium, and simmer until beets are tender, about 20 minutes.

3. Using a blender or an immersion blender, puree broth and vegetables until smooth. If using a blender, work in batches and fill only halfway, allowing heat to escape: Remove cap from hole in lid, cover lid firmly with a dish towel, and blend. Transfer to a clean pot as you work. Adjust soup's consistency with a little water if necessary. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Stir in sour cream, if desired, and serve.

Cabbage, Potato and Leek Soup

Potato and leek soup is way more delicious than it deserves to be. Even at its most basic, the simple combination of leeks, potatoes, salt, and water, is amazingly delicious. But that being said, there's no reason not to experiment with the basic recipe, particularly when it uses up even more of my CSA vegetables.

I tend to go for a mixture of chunky and smooth in my potato-leek soup, but with cabbage playing an important role, the immersion blender stayed in the drawer. The leeks melt into the broth and the potatoes just begin to fall apart, blending with tangles of tender cabbage in each bite. Salt and pepper would be enough to season this dynamic combination, but the hint of herbaceous thyme and savory Parmesan really bring it all together. Thyme can be a polarizing ingredient, so use a light hand and swap it out for another herb if it's not to your liking. Hearty greens like spinach, kale, or chard, could be substituted for the cabbage, if necessary, but should be added at the end of the cooking process.

There have been a few schizophrenic weather turns, but these darker days and cool temperatures leave no doubt than winter's on its way. Even if I miss most of the daylight hours at work and have to bundle up each time I step outside, hearty bowls like this one are one the best reasons to embrace the season. Soup's on!

Cabbage, Potato and Leek Soup

adapted from the New York Times

serves 4

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 medium leeks, white and light green parts, thinly sliced
8 cups shredded cabbage

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 medium russet, Yukon Gold, or red potatoes, peeled and diced

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock or water

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Grated Parmesan or Parmigiano-Reggiano, to serve (optional)

1. Melt the butter in a large pot over medium-high heat, add the leeks and cook until soft and golden around the edges, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the cabbage and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until cabbage begins to caramelize, about 10 minutes.

2. Stir in potatoes, stock, 4 cups water, salt and thyme. Bring soup to a simmer and cook, partly covered, until potatoes begin to fall apart, 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the size of the potatoes. Add more water, as needed, to reach the desired consistency. Season with additional salt and black pepper and serve, topped with cheese.