Great Dane Inner Warmth Stew

The Great Dane is a Madison institution both for its delicious brews and its fantastic food. Although my tastes tend toward the carnivorous when I'm dining out, it's also a fantastic place to eat vegetarian if you're so inclined. I can't recall a dish of the herbivorous or omnivorous variety that I've been disappointed with. My home cooking trends toward the plant-centered, so I couldn't pass up trying out a recipe from a favorite restaurant when my CSA farm suggested it in one of the latest newsletters.

There's no ingredients in this dish that's unexpected, but they just couldn't make a better family of flavors. This stew is both boldly garlic-y and ginger-y, bought into silky harmony with squash and tomatoes by the rich and creamy peanut butter. Timid taste buds may want to stop there, but I can't resist heating with up with generous amounts of spicy peppers or hot sauce, cooled perfectly by tangy yogurt and fresh cilantro. This is great on its own, over rice, or scooped up by naan or pita, a wonderfully satisfying vegetarian main even for the meat-eating set. Accompanied by a starch, this recipe fills four bellies generously, but can easily be scaled up to feed a ravenous (holiday?) crowd.

Great Dane Inner Warmth Stew
adapted from Crossroads Community Farm
serves 4

¼ cup of olive oil
½ of a medium onion diced
4 tbsp minced garlic
4 tbsp minced ginger
1 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
16 ounce tomato juice or one 8-ounce can tomato sauce plus 8 ounces water
14.5 ounce can diced fire-roasted tomatoes
1-1 ½ pounds squash such as acorn or butternut, peeled and cubed into 2″ pieces
½ cup of peanut butter
Hot peppers, optional
½ bunch of cilantro chopped, plus more for serving
Yogurt, for serving (optional)
Hot sauce, for serving (optional)

1. Sauté onions, garlic, ginger, black pepper and squash in oil until they start to soften.

2. Add tomato juice, tomato strips and salt.Simmer until the squash is tender. Add peanut butterand hot peppers, if using. Mix well and simmer until a thick stew is formed.

3. Serve over steamed rice with additional cilantro, yogurt, and hot sauce, if desired.

Spicy Tomatillo Soup

With a number of record low high temperatures in Wisconsin this week, you would think my gardens would go on strike. But despite their distinctly summer soul, my tomatillo plants are still generously gifting me with a respectable amount of fruit. It won't be all that long until I start picking up my winter with all its glorious roots, so I certainly don't object to eating up these lighter veggies for a while yet. I'll admit my tastes are drifting towards fall, falling victim to the siren song of all things apple and pumpkin, but my taste buds don't object to that dichotomy.

Despite being located on opposite sides of my yard, my cucumbers also missed the memo about the fall slow down, so I was happy to use up some of those as well. All the veggies keep this soup nice and light with low calorie yogurt creaminess making it gently filling. (For vegans, avocado would make a nice substitution). It can be as spicy as you like, depending on whether you remove the ribs and seeds from the peppers, balanced by the roasty garlic and acidic lime. Add only a little water if you'd like this as as light main course, but it can certainly be stretched to many side dishes if you dilute it further. 

My favorite season might be well on its way, but it's too early to completely turn my back on the light and spicy tastes of summer just yet. Bring it on garden! I'm still ready for you.

Spicy Tomatillo Soup
adapted from Martha Stewart
makes 4 servings

2 pounds tomatillos, hulled and washed
6 garlic cloves
1 to 2 jalapeño or serrano chiles
2 cups diced cucumber
1/2 cup roughly chopped onion
1/2 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1 cup homemade or low-sodium canned vegetable or chicken stock, skimmed of fat
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 cup plain yogurt
Water, to thin (optional)

1. Heat broiler. Place tomatillos, garlic, and serrano chile in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, and roast until tomatillos are soft and browned in spots, about 5 minutes. Turn all items; continue cooking until other side is soft and browned, about 5 minutes more. Remove from heat; let cool slightly.

2. Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack; let cool completely. Peel garlic, seed peppers, if desired, and place in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Add tomatillos and any accumulated juices along with cucumber, onion, cilantro, stock, lime juice, and salt; blend until mixture is smooth. Add yogurt and desired amount of water; process until they are just combined.

3. Transfer to a large bowl or plastic storage container; cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 2 hours. Serve cool, at room temperature, or slightly warm.

Spinach Enchiladas

Rick Bayless will forever be my go-to source for Mexican recipes, but I'm starting to think Joe Yonan has some pretty good ideas too. Mexican food doesn't have to be thoroughly authentic to be deeply satisfying, and I definitely have a fondness for both the Americanized and authentic versions. Just as gratifying as your favorite greasy Mexican joint, but without a requirement to be dressed for public dining, this meal is the perfect way to indulge your craving with a hint of authenticity and without settling for the Taco Bell drive-through.

I'm a sucker for anything in a tortilla, from whole wheat roasted veggie wraps, to fish tacos in homemade corn tortillas, to greasy quesadillas and everything in between. This recipe is a great balance of flavor, health, and convenience, using a collection of pantry staples and fresh vegetables to get this gorgeous meal into the oven in less than half an hour. Yogurt makes the quickly cooked vegetables wonderfully creamy with low caloric impact, tucked happily into tender corn tortillas with savory tomato sauce. Dipping the tortillas into the sauce before stuffing and rolling is a simple step that makes all the different in unifying the ingredients, though coating everything in a gentle layer of cheese certainly doesn't hurt. I can't imagine a Mexican dish without cilantro, but if your genetic misfortune means it leaves a soapy taste in your mouth, feel free to leave it out. This meal is plenty hearty as is, but beans, mushrooms, or chicken certainly wouldn't be unwelcome additions to the spinach.

Spinach Enchiladas
adapted from Eat Your Vegetables by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 large shallot lobe, chopped, or 1/4 cup finely chopped white or yellow onion
1 clove garlic, minced or pressed
1/2 small to medium jalapeno, finely chopped (leave seeds and ribs for extra heat)
3 cups lightly packed baby spinach leaves, washed and dried (about 3 ounces)
2 tablespoons whole Greek-style yogurt, sour cream, or creme fraiche
2 (6-inch) corn tortillas
2/3 cup flavorful store-bought or homemade tomato sauce, thinned with 2 to 3 tablespoons of water
1/4 cup grated Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Pour the oil into a small skillet over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the shallot, garlic, and jalapeno and cook until soft but not browned. Add the spinach and stir-fry until it has just wilted, then scrape the mixture into a bowl and stir in the yogurt. Season with salt to taste.

3. Warm the tortillas to make them more pliable : either microwave them for a few seconds or heat them in a dry skillet over medium-high heat for about 10 seconds on each side, just enough to soften them. (If you have a gas stove, you can also put hem directly on the burner grate over the flame for a few seconds on each side.) Immediately wrap them in foil to keep them warm.

4. Pour the thinned-out tomato sauce into the skillet that you sauteed the shallow mixture in and bring it to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat to love so that the sauce is barely simmering. Use tongs to dip the tortillas into the sauce one at a time, leaving them in for a just a few seconds; lift them out, letting the excess sauce drip off, and transfer them to a plate.

5. Spread about a quarter of the sauce on the bottom of a small casserole or individual gratin dish. Lay the softened tortillas on a work surface. Place half the spinach mixture in the center of each one, then roll the tortillas to form enchiladas and arrange them seam side down on top of the layer of sauce in the casserol dish. Spoon the remaining sauce on top and sprinkle with the grated cheese.

6. Bake until the cheese has melted and the sauce is bubbling, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle the enchiladas with the cilantro and eat hot.

Mahi Mahi with Kiwi-Avocado Salsa and Coconut Rice

I just can't stop being impressed with Joe Yonan's Serve Yourself. Though I have the culinary ambition to cook for a full house most nights, I'm typically just preparing a meal for one or two, and Yonan's books keep my dinner table consistently interesting. Whether you're a single cook or a parent trying to eat healthy in a land of tater tots and chicken fingers, you still deserve to sit down to a proper dinner and Joe Yonan is just the man to help you do it.

Mahi mahi and other white fish are, at least in my opinion, serve more as a canvas than the main subject of interest. But with a gorgeous salsa like the one featured here, ordinary fish becomes irresistible. The avocado is rich and creamy, kiwi tart, cilantro fresh and herby, and jalapeno spicy, a melange of flavors hitting all your taste buds in wonderful balance. Using coconut water to prepare the fish and rice creates a base deserving of those vibrant flavors, both elements happily cooking away unattended while you quickly toss the salsa together. Toasted coconut is the perfect finishing touch, adding a lovely crunch and extra bit of toasty flavor.

Mahi Mahi with Kiwi-Avocado Salsa and Coconut Rice

adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan

serves 1

1 (6-ounce) mahi mahi fillet (or substitute halibut)
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup coconut water
1/3 cup jasmine or other long-grain white rice*
1 kiwi, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes
½ ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into ½-inch cubes
1 scallion, white and green parts, cut into ¼-inch slices or 2 T. finely minced red onion
½ fresh jalapeno chile, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (optional)
Juice of 1 lime
Leaves from 3 or 4 sprigs cilantro, chopped, plus additional for garnish
½ teaspoon honey or agave, or more to taste (optional)
1 tablespoon toasted coconut
Sriracha or other hot sauce (optional)

*Substituting brown rice will required additional coconut water and cooking time.

1. Pat dry the mahi mahi with a paper towel and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

2. In a small skillet or saucepan fitted with a lid, combine the coconut water, rice, and ¼ teaspoon of salt over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat until the liquid is barely bubbling. Place the mahi mahi fillet on top of the rice, cover, and cook for about 15 minutes, or until all the coconut water is absorbed. Turn off the heat and let the rice and fish stand, covered, for another 5 minutes.

3. While the rice and fish are cooking, make the salsa. In a small bowl, stir together the kiwi, avocado, scallion, jalapeno, lime juice, and cilantro. Taste and add a touch of salt if necessary and a drizzle of honey if it’s too tart.

4. Transfer the rice and fish to a plate, top with the salsa, garnish with toasted coconut, cilantro, and hot sauce, if desired, and eat.

Crunchy Vietnamese Cabbage Salad

Though too-often ignored, cabbage is a very versatile vegetable. You can slowly braise it until it's meltingly tender, stir-fry it to crisp-tender, or serve it raw and crunchy. The first part of my gigantic head of cabbage was dedicated to warm and comforting caramelized deliciousness, but my second foray is of a cool and refreshing variety. Cabbage slaws and salads themselves have almost the range of cabbage cookery in general, from rich and creamy to fresh and crisp, and my recipe being of the latter variety.

The bulk of the salad is composed of a typical cast of characters - cabbage, carrots, scallions, and cilantro - but the dressing is what truly makes it wonderful. A perfect balance of salty, sweet, savory, and spicy, it makes all of the fresh ingredients pop, accented by bits of rich and crunchy bits of peanuts in every bite. To complete the meal I topped with chicken for dinner and edamame for lunch, but I can see this happily coexisting with pork, shrimp, or tofu as well. With diest moving towards heartier cold-weather fare, this is a nice change of pace that doesn't leave you starving for additional sustenance or flavor.

Crunchy Vietnamese Cabbage Salad
adapted from the New York Times
serves 4

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons dark brown sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons Asian fish sauce

Zest and juice of 1 lime

1 jalapeño, mince, seeds and ribs removed to desired level of heat

2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed through a garlic press

4 tablespoons peanut or canola oil

6 cups shredded cabbage

1 large carrot, grated
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions

1/2 cup coarsely chopped roasted, salted peanuts, plus more to serve

1/4 cup chopped cilantro, plus more to serve

1. To make vinaigrette, whisk together soy sauce, brown sugar, fish sauce, lime zest and juice, jalapeño and garlic. Whisk in 3 tablespoons oil. 

2. In a large bowl, toss together tofu, cabbage, carrot, scallions, half of the peanuts, cilantro and vinaigrette. Garnish with the remaining peanuts and additional cilantro.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce

Earlier this week I shared a recipe for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce, so it now it's time to share one that is a bit farther down the cooked scale. In the previous sauce the flavor profile featured the tartness, but in this sauce acidic notes are muted in favor of a deeper, earthier flavor. It doesn't go as far as Roasted Tomatillo Salsa, which is all about the roasted and smoky flavors, but nicely bridges those two extremes. Again we see chiles, cilantro, and onion making an appearance, garlic and stock fortifying the flavor even further. With that usual cast of characters, this is most certainly a pleasing preparation for any tomatillo lover, but the gentler acidic character will appeal to larger audience of non-tomatillo devotees.

Any of the suggestions I made for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce are just as appropriate for this variation, though I heartily endorse its use in the shredded pork chilaquiles pictured above. As I steadily make my way through my freezer cache in order to make room for my impending winter CSA, I am both delighting in the revisiting these summer flavors and sad to see them go. But when you love food and cooking as much as I do, each day has the potential for culinary adventure. Who knows? This concentrated summer flavor just may end up meeting up with hearty winter squash.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce
makes about 2 1/2 to 3 cups
adapted from Authentic Mexican by Rick Bayless

1 pound (11 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and washed OR two 13-ounce cans tomatillos, drained
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 3 chiles serranos or 2 chiles jalapenos), stemmed
5 or 6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1 large garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon lard or vegetable or canola oil
2 cups any low-sodium poultry, meat, or vegetable broth or stock (depending on how the sauce is to be used)
Salt, about 1/2 teaspoon (depending on the saltiness of the broth)

1. The tomatillos. Boil the fresh tomatillos and chiles in salt water to cover until tender, 10 to 15 minutes; drain. Simply drain the canned tomatillos.

2. The puree. Place the tomatillos and chiles (raw ones if using canned tomatillos) in a blender or food processor, along with the coriander, onion, and garlic; if using a blender, stir well. Process until smooth, but still retaining a little texture.

3. The sauce. Heat the lard or oil in a medium-large skillet set over medium-high. When hot enough to make a drop of the puree sizzle sharply, pour it in all at once and stir constantly for 4 or 5 minutes, until darker and thicker. Add the broth, let return to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and simmer until thick enough to coat a spoon, about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce

I finally cleaned out my gardens last week. My final harvest yielded a good amount of eggplant, some jalapenos, poblanos, and mini sweet bell peppers, a couple tomatoes, a surprise 2+ pound zucchini the size of my forearm, and even a few last tomatillos from plants that looked like they were in their death throes, yet were flowering at the same time. Apparently it's not just my mutant plants hanging on for dear life, as I saw a couple vendors still selling a few tomatillos, but I thought I should share a few last tomatillo recipes before all vestiges of this favorite fruit disappear.

If you know me or Mexican cooking, it should be no surprise that I went straight to Rick Bayless for recipes. I can't say enough about how much I love his cookbooks and recipes, so I expect nothing less than  perfection when I try his recipes. And you know what? I'm never disappointed. I've made seemingly countless tomatillo sauces at this point, mostly from his recipes, all with their own unique character. As the name would suggest, this sauce is fresh and vibrant, celebrating all the tart and citrusy notes of the tomatillo. Hot chiles, cilantro, and onion are familiar companions, this classic combination just as delicious with barely cooked tomatillos as deeply roasted ones.

There's no end to the ways this sauce can be used. A few suggestions include a dip for chips, topping for tacos, tostados, and eggs, or sauce for smothered burrito pictured above, though that is certain not an exhaustive list. If you like tomatillos, you're almost guaranteed to love this sauce, relishing in it's spicy, tart flavor brightens up any dish it is added to.

Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce

from Authentic Mexican 20th Anniversary Ed: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico by Rick Bayless

makes about 1 ½ cups

8 ounces (5 or 6 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and washed
OR one 13-ounce can tomatillos, drained
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 2 chiles serranos or 1 chile jalapeno), stemmed
5 or 6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
½ small onion, chopped
Salt, about ½ teaspoon

1. The tomatillos: Boil fresh tomatillos in salted water to cover until barely tender, 8 to 10 minutes; drain. Canned tomatillos only need to be drained.

2. The puree: Place the tomatillos in a blender or food processor. If you want a milder sauce, seed the chile(s), then chop into small bits and add to the tomatillos along with the coriander and chopped onion; if using a blender, stir well. Blend or process to a coarse puree.

3. Finishing the sauce: Scrape into a sauce dish, thin to medium-thick consistency with about ¼ cup water, then season with salt. Let stand for about ½ hour before serving, for the flavors to blend.

Traditional Variations

Chunky Tomatillo Sauce: Prepare the sauce as described, finely chopping the chile, onion and coriander, then adding them to the blended tomatillos. If the chopped onion is rinsed, the sauce will sour less quickly.

All-Raw Tomatillo Relish: Prepare the sauce with chopped raw tomatillos, adding ¼ cup water before blending. Taste for salt and stir in additional water, if needed.

Spicy Eggplant and Green Bean Curry

Just a few feet over from my over-producing zucchini plant are a couple of noble eggplants putting out a decent crop of their own. Eggplant is a vegetable I enjoy, though not something I've cooked with very much, and certainly not something I'd ever grown myself. Luckily for me, growing and cooking eggplant has turned out to be quite simple and delicious. As is my wont, I started with the basics, roasted eggplant which also transformed into baba ganoush, to get acquainted with my homegrown eggplant. After those basic preparations, I wanted to go with something intensely flavorful, this curry fitting the bill splendidly. I was helped along this path because I already had a jar of green curry paste in the fridge, but I don't for a second regret pairing those aromatic herbs and chilies with earthy eggplant. Additional garlic and ginger intensify those flavors, cilantro and mint add amplify the herbaceousness, and coconut milk provides the perfect creamy conduit for blending it all together. This makes for a complete Thai-inspired meal with a protein and some coconut rice, or you can go my completely untraditional route and use pieces of pita to scoop it up, topping with pieces of stir-fried tofu.

Spicy Eggplant and Green Bean Curry
adapted from Bon Appétit

serves 4

5 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil, divided
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tablespoon chopped peeled fresh ginger
1 14- to 16-ounce eggplant, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
8 ounces green beans, trimmed, cut into 2-inch pieces
1 tablespoon grated lime peel
1 to 3 teaspoons Thai green curry paste, to taste
1 cup canned unsweetened coconut milk
3 green onions, chopped
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

1. Heat 4 tablespoons oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add garlic and ginger; stir 30 seconds. Add eggplant and green beans. Cook until almost tender, stirring often, about 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer vegetables to bowl.

2. Add 1 tablespoon oil, lime peel, and curry paste to same skillet; stir 15 seconds. Add coconut milk; bring to boil, whisking until smooth. Return vegetables to skillet; toss until sauce thickens enough to coat vegetables, about 3 minutes. Season with salt. Mix in onions, cilantro, and mint.

Spicy Cold Tomatillo Soup

If there's one thing in my garden that's overproducing other than zucchini, it's tomatillos. Despite the name, tomatillos are a member of the nightshade family, related closely to ground cherries, not tomatoes. Even in the foodie culture of Madison, I'm surprised at the number of people who don't know this delicious fruit by name, though almost everyone is familiar with the wonderful flavor of salsa verde.

While addressing the zucchini crop can feel like a bit of a burden at times, I'll never complain about having too many tomatillos. From just a couple of plants I've gotten several pounds of fruit (and they're still producing), which I've turned into fresh salsa, multiple roasted salsas, and even jam. With my freezer and refrigerator well-stocked with these delicious tomatillo sauces, I needed to expand my culinary endeavors to use my garden bounty.

When I need to use up an abundance of ingredients, my first thought is always soup. This soup is a nice balance of decadence and lightness, the rich avocado and yogurt offset by fresh cucumber, onion, and cilantro, with roasted tomatillos beautifully bridging these extremes. I find that one unseeded serrano brings a nice level of heat, but for those less enthusiastic about spicy food I'd recommend removing the ribs and seeds and/or only using part of the pepper. This recipe makes enough for two main courses or four side dishes and can easily be scaled up, provided you have a large enough food processor or blender. A perfect cold soup for the waning warm days, this fresh and filling bowl of flavor satisfies with the flavors of summer, but teases the taste buds for the hearty cold weather soups and stews soon to come.

Spicy Cold Tomatillo Soup
adapted from Martha Stewart
makes about 1 quart

1 pound tomatillos, hulled and washed
3 garlic cloves
1 jalapeno or serrano chile, seeded and ribs removed for less heat
1 cup cucumber, peeled, seeded, and roughly chopped
1/4 cup roughly chopped onion
1/4 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon fresh lime (or lemon) juice
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1 small avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into small pieces
1/2 to 1 cup water

1. Heat broiler. Place tomatillos, garlic, and serrano chile in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, and roast until tomatillos are soft and browned in spots, about 5 minutes. Turn all items; continue cooking until other side is soft and browned, about 5 minutes more. Remove from heat; let cool slightly.

2. Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack; let cool completely. Peel garlic; place cloves in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Add tomatillos, serrano, and any accumulated juices along with cucumber, onion, cilantro, stock, lime juice, salt, yogurt, and avocado; blend until mixture is smooth. Add water, a few tablespoons at a time, blending after each addition, until soup reaches desired consistency. Taste and season with additional salt, if needed.

3. Transfer to a large bowl or plastic storage container; cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 2 hours before serving.

Spicy Coconut Shrimp Sandwich

Shrimp was one of the first foods I recognized as a special occasion treat. Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas - they all meant starting with shrimp cocktail at my house. I was never all that excited about going out for Friday fish fry as a kid (sacrilegious, I know), but I was always eager to chow down on a plate of batter fried shrimp. As an adult, I eat shrimp on a fairly regular basis, with a much expanded repertoire of recipes, but it still always feels special to me. Yet despite it's fancy reputation, at least in my mind, it's one of the quickest and easiest proteins to prepare and is a godsend for anyone in a hurry or on a diet. I made this sandwich on a Friday night when I had plenty of time and no intentions of eating light, using that quick-cooking, lean protein to soak up a brilliant collection of flavors. The marinade begins with creamy, mildly sweet coconut milk, which is then fortified with pungent garlic, brightened with lime, and spiced up with jalapeno, with a final fresh herby note from the cilantro. Because the spice in the marinade isn't quite enough for me (though it may be for many), I added an additional nuanced layer of heat with Sriracha mayo. Cucumber and lettuce finish the sandwich with a cool and crunchy element along with a hint of astrigency from the red onion. All of these elements come together to create a sandwich that would be right at home next to a fruity umbrella drink in an exotic beach cabana, but I think it feels just perfect in my Wisconsin backyard with a cold beer.

Spicy Coconut Shrimp Sandwich
serves 1

1/3 cup coconut milk
1 tablespoon minced jalapeno (include seeds and ribs for more heat)
1/2 tablespoon minced garlic
1/2 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro
1/2 tablespoon fresh lime juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces raw large or jumbo shrimp, deshelled and deveined
Olive or canola oil
Individual French roll, demi baguette, or sub roll, split
1 tablespoon light or regular mayo
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon Sriracha sauce (or to taste)
Lettuce, thinly sliced cucumber and red onion, and cilantro, for serving

1. In a medium bowl, combine coconut milk, jalapeno, garlic, cilantro, lime juice, salt, and pepper, and stir well to combine. Add shrimp, toss to coat, and set aside for at least 30 minutes. In a small bowl, combine mayo and Sriracha sauce and stir to combine.

2. Preheat broiler (or grill) and brush each side of the roll with olive oil. Toast under the broiler until golden brown and crunchy, 2 to 4 minutes. Let come to room temperature, place lettuce leaves on bottom half, and spread top half with spicy mayo.

3. Meanwhile, preheat a pan (or grill) over medium heat and add a drizzle of oil. When oil is hot, add shrimp and cook, turning once, until shrimp are just cooked through, about 2 to 3 minutes per side.

4. Place shrimp on top of bottom half of roll, top with cucumber, red onion, cilantro, and top half of roll. Serve promptly.

Cold Veggie Noodle Salad with Creamy Peanut Sauce

Although this recipe is extremely portable, I made it when I actually had time to prepare myself a lunch right before eating it. With a little time off from work over the 4th of July holiday, I took the time to treat myself. Part of that indulgence was grilling some ribs and ordering pizza, but I also took the time to make myself healthy and delicious lunches that felt like treats in themselves and loaded my body with enough nutrients to withstand the caloric onslaught to come. I love Asian-inspired noodle bowls partly for the wonderful palate of flavors they draw from but also because you can throw in almost any veggie, a particular asset when the farmers' market is overflowing. I used bell peppers, scallions, cucumbers, and carrots, eagerly gathering up little bits of a host of vegetables in my fridge, but I was most happy with my use of broccoli stems. They occasionally get made into slaws, but that delicious part of the plant all too often goes to waste when they merely need to have their tough outer peel removed. This garden bounty is accompanied by simple peanut sauce that strikes a masterful balance of richness, acidity, and spiciness, generously flavoring the fresh vegetables and nutty whole wheat noodles without burying them. Whether it's a leisurely day at home or you need to pack a meal-on-the-go, this meal will satisfy your needs in delicious and nutritious fashion.

Cold Veggie Noodle Salad with Creamy Peanut Sauce
adapted from The Kitchn
serves 1 to 2

3 ounces whole wheat linguine or Chinese wheat noodles, rice noodles, or udon noodles
2 tablespoons creamy peanut butter
1/2 tablespoon soy sauce
1/2 tablespoon rice vinegar
3/4 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste (optional)

4 ounces mixed vegetables, cut into matchsticks (carrots, bell peppers, scallions, cucumbers, broccoli stems, etc.)
2 tablespoons roughly chopped roasted salted peanuts, divided
Cilantro leaves, lime wedges, and Sriracha, for garnish

1. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook until al dente according to package directions. Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking broth before straining. Run the noodles under cold water and shake to remove excess liquid before returning them to the empty pot.

2. In another bowl, combine the peanut butter, soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, and 1 tablespoonshot cooking broth and whisk vigorously until mixed. (It will be quite thick.) Toss the peanut sauce with the noodles until coated. Stir in additional hot cooking broth — a few splashes at a time — until the dish is smooth and creamy. (You will probably not need all of the reserved broth.) Taste and season with red pepper, additional soy sauce, and rice vinegar if desired.

3. Fold in 2/3 of the veggies and half of the peanuts. Transfer noodles to serving dish and garnish with remaining veggies and peanuts. Garnish with cilantro leaves, lime wedges, and Sriracha, if desired. This can be served warm, cold, or at room temperature.

Shortcut Spicy Shrimp Bahn Mi

Last week I shared a new delicious veggie burger recipe, but this week it's time to get back to my "fancy" sandwich creations. It's not a stick-to-your-ribs, cheesy carnivore's delight like my last new sandwich, but a perfect fresh and crunchy hot weather meal. As the name indicates, I'm not claiming this is an authentic recipe, but the combination of spicy and pickled flavor definitely has the spirit of the bahn mi. I've always been a lover of cucumber pickles, but it wasn't until a few years ago that I began a love affair with quick pickles and expanded my repertoire to a much wider range of vegetables, like those used here. I've included a link to an easy quick pickle recipe that invites experimentation (I recommend adding chiles and ginger to start), but even the carrots and red peppers hanging out in jars of Vlasic Farmer's Garden pickles will add the delicious vinegariness this sandwich requires. The sour pickles contrasts perfectly with the spicy Sriracha mayo, boldy topping the succulent shrimp without making them disappear. No bahn mi would be complete without a sprinkling of fresh cilantro, joined by an extra layer of crisp flavor contributed by sliced cucumber. While this sandwich might not take you straight to Vietnam, it is an ideal meal for kicking back and relaxing in the sun on a warm summer day.

Shortcut Spicy Shrimp Bahn Mi
serves 1 to 2

1 demi-baguette or ciabatta roll
Olive or canola oil, or melted butter
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon Sriracha
4 ounces raw large shrimp, shelled and deveined
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 ounce pickled vegetables (carrots, radish, Daikon, cucumbers etc.)
1 ounce thinly sliced fresh cucumber


1. Preheat broiler. Coat the bread with a thin layer of the oil/butter and toast under the broiler until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, mix the mayo and Sriracha together in a small bowl. When the bread is toasted, spread spicy mayo evenly on top half of bread.

3. Preheat a pan over medium heat and add a drizzle of oil. When oil is hot, add shrimp to pan and season with salt and pepper. Cook, flipping once, until shrimp are cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes total.

4. Place shrimp on top of bottom half of roll and top with pickled veggies, cucumber and cilantro and serve.

Shrimp and Feta Omelette with Cilantro

For reasons I can't explain, I got the idea of making a shrimp omelette stuck in my head. There was definitely a time where I would have scoffed at the idea of a seafood omelette, but shrimp omelettes have a proud place in Asian and American cuisine. My recipe doesn't fall under exactly under either of them, but instead uses a complementary set of flavors from all over the map. Old Bay and seafood are a natural combination, that magical blend of spices just as delightful with shrimp as with the traditional crab. Cheese and seafood are often a dicey combination, but salty feta is light enough that it doesn't overpower the shrimp. Cilantro adds just the right fresh and herbaceous note, though if you're one of those people who thinks cilantro tastes soapy, parsley or basil would be suitable substitutes. Although it is an omelette, I consider this a light dinner rather than a breakfast as the only seafood I can easily see myself having at breakfast is smoked salmon. Eggs are one of my favorite options for a quick supper, easily accommodating almost any ingredient or flavor and making it from pan to plate in just a few minutes. I like my omelettes with a little color, as you can see above, but feel free to keep yours golden yellow. Not quite breakfast for dinner, but uniquely satisfying, this is a perfect meal for any busy weeknight.

Shrimp and Feta Omelette with Cilantro
serves 1

Canola or olive oil cooking spray
2 ounces raw shrimp, cut into bite-size pieces
2 large eggs
1/4 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning
2 tablespoons/0.5 ounce crumbled feta cheese
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Preheat an omelette pan over medium heat and spray with cooking spray. Add shrimp and cook, stirring occasionally until shrimp are translucent, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from pan and set aside.

2. Whisk the eggs and Old Bay together in a medium bowl. Spray pan with cooking spray and add eggs to pan, agitating the pan gently. Tilt pan and lift edges of omelette to allow the runny eggs to cook. When the eggs begin to firm and are almost cooked, add shrimp, cheese, and cilantro, distributing evenly over the middle third of the omelet.  Use a fork or spatula to fold each side of the omelette over the center filling, tilting the pan to help roll up the omelette. Cook 10 to 30 seconds longer, depending on how brown you like your omelette. Slide onto a plate and serve promptly.

Spicy Stewed Potatoes and Spinach with Coconut Milk

Indian food is one of the cuisines I came to much later in life. I now live in a culinary utopia, but I grew up in an area where most of the people were only aware of Indian "culture" through Apu on The Simpsons. I was lucky to have parents who valued other cultures and taught me as much as they could about the worlds beyond my tiny hometown, but that still didn't change the fact that there wasn't anywhere to go out for curry and naan. Now that I'm cooking for myself, I find that Indian culinary tradition is one I go back to frequently, especially when I'm making vegetarian meals. This recipe combines hearty potatoes and gently cooked spinach with spicy chiles, fresh cilantro,and creamy coconut milk to create a filling dish that satisfies all of your taste buds. It is rather gentle with the traditional spices, using turmeric instead of the full suite of curry spices, and a nice way to gradually introduce novices to the lovely flavors of Indian cuisine. More adventurous palates or those better acquainted with Indian food may want to substitute the turmeric with curry powder, whose myriad ingredients are just as eagerly soaked up by the potatoes and spinach. Chicken, fish, or tofu would feel most at home next to this on your dinner plate, but it could be served over rice or quinoa for a hearty, starchy dinner.

Spicy Stewed Potatoes and Spinach with Coconut Milk

adapted from Eating Well

serves 4

1 pound Yukon Gold or red potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
2 dried red chiles, such as Thai, cayenne, chile de arbol, or guajillo, stemmed
1 cup boiling water
1/2 cup firmly packed fresh cilantro
4 large cloves garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon salt, divided
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon canola oil
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric (or curry powder, to taste)
1/2 cup light coconut milk
8 ounces baby spinach

1. Place potatoes in a medium bowl; cover with cold water to prevent browning. Place chiles in a small heatproof bowl and pour the boiling water over them. Set aside until they are reconstituted, about 15 minutes. Reserving the chile-soaking water, coarsely chop the chiles (do not seed).

2. Pile cilantro, garlic, 3/4 teaspoon salt and the chopped chiles in a mortar. Pound the ingredients to a pulpy mass with the pestle, using a spatula to contain the mixture in the center for a concentrated pounding. (Alternatively, mince the ingredients in a food processor.)

3. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the spice paste and cook, stirring, until the garlic is honey-brown and the chiles are pungent, 1 to 2 minutes. (Make sure to use adequate ventilation.) Drain the potatoes and add along with turmeric; cook, stirring to coat the potatoes with the yellow spice, about 30 seconds. Pour in the reserved chile-soaking water and scrape the pan to loosen any browned bits; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a gentle simmer, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are fork-tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

4. When the potatoes are tender, pile the spinach leaves over them, add remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, cover and cook until the spinach is wilted, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the coconut milk mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve promptly.

Thai Tofu or Chicken Salad

These below average temperatures are really getting on my nerves. All I can think about are flip flops, shorts, planting gardens, and all the other wonderful things that come with spring, especially the culinary ones. Despite all of that, the sunshine creeping into the evening is giving me hope that soon the snow will be gone and I'll be awash with spring vegetables. This salad is made with local spinach, available all year long, and carrots, a fall/winter vegetable, but the Thai flavors in this salad make it feel quite spring-like in my opinion. Too often both salad and tofu get a bad rap, but neither needs to be boring or leave you hungry, and this recipe is proof of that. A delicate sprinkling of feta and peanuts add the perfect level of saltiness to accent the fresh and crunchy carrots and spinach and the tofu or chicken make it a filling and complete meal. This same collection of ingredients could also be adapted into a stir-fry or noodle bowl for something even more hearty, but this should satisfy most appetites with just a crusty piece of bread or roll on the side.

Thai Tofu or Chicken Salad
serves 1

2 cups spinach, salad greens, or baby lettuce (about 2 ounces), washed, dried and chopped
1/4 cup grated carrot (about 1 ounce)
2 tablespoons thinly sliced green onion
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
3 ounces cooked chicken or baked tofu
2 tablespoons chopped roasted peanuts
2 tablespoons crumbled feta (about 1/2 ounce)
Salad dressing, for serving

1. Combine spinach, carrot, green onion, and cilantro in a bowl or on a large plate and toss to combine. Top with chicken/tofu, peanuts, and feta cheese. Drizzle dressing of choice over top, and enjoy!

Asian Salmon-and-Rice Soup

For better or worse, I don't really think about soup when it comes to getting in my weekly serving of seafood. I've never really liked clam chowder, although I did enjoy a delicious touristy helping in a sourdough bread bowl at Boudin on Fisherman's Wharf, and the similarly creamy oyster stew never struck my fancy. However, one of the finest meals I've had in my life has to be the legendary cioppino at Tadich Grill in San Francisco, so I'm not against the concept entirely. Although this soup comes nowhere close to recreating the culinary glory of that meal, it too has a wonderfully flavorful broth and is satisfying without being heavy, but it won't take hours to prepare or an ocean's worth of seafood. The flavors here are all classically Asian and equally as wonderful in a soup as they would be in a stir-fry, a balanced combination of freshness, saltiness, and savoriness. An quick Asian-inspired slaw perfectly rounds out this easy meal for a delicious twist on the classic soup-and-salad lunch.

Asian Salmon-and-Rice Soup

adapted from Food and Wine

serves 4

1 cup brown rice
1 pounds salmon fillet, skin removed, fish cut into 8 pieces
2 tablespoons tamari or soy sauce
1 tablespoon toasted Asian sesame oil
10 cilantro stems, chopped, plus 1 cup cilantro leaves for garnish
1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups canned low-sodium chicken broth or homemade stock
4 cups water
3 scallions including green tops, chopped
Rice vinegar, to taste (optional)

1. Cook rice according to package directions and set aside.

2. Coat the salmon with the soy sauce and sesame oil.

3. In a large pot, combine the cooked rice, the cilantro stems, the ginger, salt, broth, and water. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes.

4. Add the salmon to the pot. Simmer, covered, until the salmon is just done, about 5 minutes. Remove the cilantro stems. Add rice vinegar to taste, one splash as a time, if desired, and serve the soup garnished with the cilantro leaves and scallions.

Fish Tacos with Quick Asian Cabbage Slaw

I can't tell you how many times I heard my dad say "Variety is the spice of life" and like so many of his ideologies, it has really formed who I became as an adult. When William Cowper wrote "Variety's the very spice of life/That gives it all its flavour", he wasn't talking about food, but that philosophy certainly applies to cooking. All this preamble is all a flowery way of saying that when I had red cabbage and corn tortillas to use up (and tacos on the brain), I wanted to do it in as diverse ways as possible. Despite a number of common ingredients (cabbage, cilantro, corn tortillas), these tacos couldn't be more different. I started on a heartier note with chicken, barbecue, and smoky cheddar, but also found a different success with these light, crunchy, spicy fish tacos. Although fish tacos usually use some kind of white fish, I found that the salmon I already had on hand worked beautifully in this quickly thrown together dinner. The light and crunchy slaw cuts through the fattiness of the salmon so the taco doesn't end up feeling heavy (and you get a lot more omega-3s to boot!). Easy enough to be thrown together at the last minute, but delicious enough to deserve a little special effort, these simple tacos are a great example of how to eat well on the cheap.

Fish Tacos with Quick Asian Cabbage Slaw
serves 2

1 tablespoon canola oil
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/2 tablespoon honey
4 ounces finely shredded cabbage (red, green, or napa)
1 medium carrot, shredded (about 2 ounces)
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Two 4- to 5-ounce fish filets (tilapia, whitefish, mahi mahi, or even salmon)
Cooking spray
4 small corn tortillas
Sriracha or other hot sauce, for serving

1. In a medium bowl, combine oil, vinegar, and honey and whisk well to combine. Add cabbage, carrots, and cilantro, toss well to coat, and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

2. Preheat a pan to medium heat and spray with cooking spray. Season fish fillets with salt and pepper and add to pan. Cooking to desired level of doneness, about 3 to 4 minutes per side, depending on the thickness and type of fish. Set cooked fish aside to rest briefly, then break into bite size pieces.

3. Warm corn tortillas in the oven or microwave. Add cabbage slaw to each tortilla, leaving excess liquid in the dish, and top with fish and a squirt of hot sauce.

Chicken Tacos with Smoky BBQ Cabbage Slaw

The fact that I hate to waste is often a source of inspiration. I won't hold back on picking up particular ingredients, but I certainly won't let odds and ends go unused. This recipe, for example, came from a desire
to use up the corn tortillas left over from Black Bean Enchiladas with Spicy Squash Sauce and a seemingly endless head of red cabbage still remaining from my CSA. But despite it's humble origins, this dish doesn't disappoint in terms of flavor even though it only requires a small time investment. High-quality prepared barbecue sauce is the real shortcut here, taking an ordinary collection of vegetables from raw and plain to tender and flavorful in short order. A zesty sauce is best, complemented particularly well by the smoky cheddar, fresh cilantro and cooling sour cream. I made this as a quick meal for two, but it could easily be scaled up for a taco bar at a larger gathering, perhaps served alongside the fish taco recipe with cabbage slaw I created out of the same motivation (and will share soon). A great example of making lemonade out of leftover lemons, these tacos are delicious enough to earn an intentional spot on my menu in the future.

Chicken Tacos with Smoky BBQ Cabbage Slaw
serves 2

One 6- to 8-ounce boneless, skinless chicken breast
Cooking spray or canola oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces finely shredded red cabbage
1/2 medium onion, sliced (about 2 ounces)
1/4 cup fresh corn or frozen corn, thawed
2 tablespoons barbecue sauce, diluted with 2 tablespoons water
4 small corn tortillas
Chopped fresh cilantro, for serving
Shredded smoked cheddar cheese (or other cheddar or Jack cheese), for serving
Sour cream, for serving

1. Preheat a pan to medium heat and spray with cooking spray or drizzle with canola oil. Season chicken with salt and pepper and add to pan. Cook until breast reaches 170 degrees F. Remove chicken from pan and allow to rest for a few minutes, then cut or shred into bite-size pieces.

2. Add additional oil to the hot pan, if needed, and add onions. Cook, stirring frequently, until onions are browned and just softened, about 5 minutes. Add cabbage, raise heat to medium-high and cook, stirring frequently, until cabbage is softened but still somewhat crisp, about  3 to 5 more minutes. Add corn, stirring constantly until corn is heated through. Add 3 tablespoons of the diluted barbecue sauce, and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until all the vegetables are coated most of the liquid has been absorbed. Remove pan from heat, add remaining tablespoons of diluted barbecue sauce, and stir to combine everything thoroughly.

3. Warm corn tortillas in the oven or microwave. Add cabbage slaw to each tortilla and top with chicken, cheese, cilantro and sour cream. Serve promptly.

Thai Chicken Nachos

Normally when I go on a culinary tangent I like to mete out my recipes in any one particular theme slowly, but since we've only got a few weeks of football snacking left, I thought I should get my nacho recipes out in short order. Last time I shared nachos of the Italian persuasion, but this time I borrowed from a totally different culinary tradition for something lighter and spicier, Thai Chicken Nachos. Where Italian Nachos were rich and deeply savory, these nachos are light and spicy, two different but equally satisfying ways to satisfy your nacho craving. A generous amount of scallions, cilantro, and jalapeno make these nachos fresh and give a nod to the traditional recipe. Feta cheese maintains the requisite cheesy goodness in light and salty fashion, and the chicken and peanuts make them substantial and savory. If you're looking to spice up your football snacks or simply indulge without doing too much damage, this is the recipe for you.

Thai Chicken Nachos
serves 1 to 2

Cooking spray or canola or olive oil
4 ounces boneless skinless chicken breast, cut into small pieces
2 ounces tortilla chips
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, divided
1 fresh or pickled red or green jalapeno, thinly sliced
2 ounces crumbled feta cheese
2 tablespoons prepared peanut sauce, diluted with 1 to 2 tablespoons water
Finely chopped roasted peanuts, for garnish (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Meanwhile, preheat a skillet over medium heat and spray with cooking spray. Add chicken and cook until meat is no longer pink and at least 170 degrees F.

2. Place tortilla chips on an oven-safe platter in an even layer. Top chips with scallions, cooked chicken, half the cilantro, jalapeno, and feta cheese. Drizzle diluted peanut sauce over the top.

3. Place platter in the oven and bake until nachos are warmed through and cheese is slightly melted (feta does not melt like mozzarella, etc.). Top with the remaining cilantro and peanuts, if using, and serve immediately.

Moroccan Stuffed Squash

Thanks to my winter CSA, I've eaten seemingly countless different kinds stuffed squash, but I have to say this is my favorite. I've gotten a lot of recipes from tried and true sources, made up recipes on the spot with whatever I happened to have around, but The Sprouted Kitchen is my latest cookbook obsession because of perfect recipes like this one. The first stroke of genius is cooking the quinoa in coconut milk, something I'm ashamed I never thought to do myself. It makes the quinoa unbelievably creamy and the crunch of the pistachios and pop of the pomegranate seeds have the perfect textural contrast. These same elements also contrast each other beautifully in flavor - subtly rich coconut milk quinoa is the perfect canvas for tart pomegranate seeds, rich pistachios, salty feta cheese and fresh herbs. I happen to think that combination of nuts, fruits, cheese, and herbs is paragon of flavor, but feel free to swap out any of these elements for others than strike your fancy. By far the most interesting collection of ingredients I've ever had the pleasure of stuffing into a squash, this dish is sure to appear on my dinner table until my bounty of squash is depleted.

Moroccan Stuffed Squash

adapted from The Sprouted Kitchen

serves 4

2 medium acorn squash
3 tablespoons coconut oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup quinoa
1 (13.5-ounce) can light coconut milk
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1/4 teaspoon each ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon each ground cumin
1/4 cup thinly sliced preserved lemon peel or 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
1/2 cup pomegranate seeds
1/2 cup feta cheese, plus more for garnish

1/2 cup chopped toasted pistachios (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and scoop out seeds. Rub 1 tablespoon of the coconut oil on the cut sides of the squash halves and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the squash, cut side down, on a baking sheet and pierce the skin a few times with a fork. Roast 20 minutes. Flip them over and continue cooking until you can easily poke a knife through the flesh at its thickest part, another 10 to 20 minutes depending on its size. Remove from the oven and let cool.

2. While the squash are cooking, rinse the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer. Bring the coconut milk to a gentle boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, with a pinch of salt and pepper. Add the quinoa; turn the heat down to a simmer and cover. Cook until liquid is absorbed, 15-18 minutes; then turn off the heat and let the quinoa steam in the saucepan for 5 minutes.

3. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons coconut oil, the paprika, coriander and cumin to the quinoa and toss to combine. Add the preserved lemon peel, mint, cilantro, orange juice, pomegranate seeds and feta and toss together. Taste and add salt and pepper, if necessary

4. Divide mixture between the squash halves. Garnish with a sprinkle of feta and the pistachios. Serve immediately.