Spicy Tomatillo Soup

With a number of record low high temperatures in Wisconsin this week, you would think my gardens would go on strike. But despite their distinctly summer soul, my tomatillo plants are still generously gifting me with a respectable amount of fruit. It won't be all that long until I start picking up my winter with all its glorious roots, so I certainly don't object to eating up these lighter veggies for a while yet. I'll admit my tastes are drifting towards fall, falling victim to the siren song of all things apple and pumpkin, but my taste buds don't object to that dichotomy.

Despite being located on opposite sides of my yard, my cucumbers also missed the memo about the fall slow down, so I was happy to use up some of those as well. All the veggies keep this soup nice and light with low calorie yogurt creaminess making it gently filling. (For vegans, avocado would make a nice substitution). It can be as spicy as you like, depending on whether you remove the ribs and seeds from the peppers, balanced by the roasty garlic and acidic lime. Add only a little water if you'd like this as as light main course, but it can certainly be stretched to many side dishes if you dilute it further. 

My favorite season might be well on its way, but it's too early to completely turn my back on the light and spicy tastes of summer just yet. Bring it on garden! I'm still ready for you.

Spicy Tomatillo Soup
adapted from Martha Stewart
makes 4 servings

2 pounds tomatillos, hulled and washed
6 garlic cloves
1 to 2 jalapeño or serrano chiles
2 cups diced cucumber
1/2 cup roughly chopped onion
1/2 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1 cup homemade or low-sodium canned vegetable or chicken stock, skimmed of fat
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 cup plain yogurt
Water, to thin (optional)

1. Heat broiler. Place tomatillos, garlic, and serrano chile in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, and roast until tomatillos are soft and browned in spots, about 5 minutes. Turn all items; continue cooking until other side is soft and browned, about 5 minutes more. Remove from heat; let cool slightly.

2. Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack; let cool completely. Peel garlic, seed peppers, if desired, and place in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Add tomatillos and any accumulated juices along with cucumber, onion, cilantro, stock, lime juice, and salt; blend until mixture is smooth. Add yogurt and desired amount of water; process until they are just combined.

3. Transfer to a large bowl or plastic storage container; cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 2 hours. Serve cool, at room temperature, or slightly warm.

Black Bean Soup with Seared Scallops or Shrimp and Green Salsa

The idea of concentrated soup base just isn't getting old, and as I suspected, this series of black bean soups is just as delicious as the sweet potato one. The sweet potato soups may have explored a more diverse spectrum of flavors, but this black bean soup base has lent itself exceptionally to Mexican-inspired dishes. It was first put to good use in a spicy tortilla variation, now topped generously with tender seafood and an exceptionally fresh salsa. The contrast between the the hearty soup and the fresh salsa is striking, and in the best possible way. Each bite of the black bean soup is thick and silky, punctuated perfectly by he crunchy electric green salsa. The heat from the ancho chiles in the base is subtle and smooth, but the salsa brings a bright and assertive heat of its own, tempered just enough by the creamy avocado. This filling bowl is certainly a meal on its own, but a handful of tortilla chips are an ideal final touch, perfect for crumbling over the top or scooping up generous bites.

Black Bean Soup with Seared Scallops or Shrimp and Green Salsa

adpated from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan

serves 1

1 to 1 1/2 cups Spicy Black Bean Soup Base (see below), defrosted if frozen

Up to 1/2 cup water or chicken or vegetable stock

1/2 to 1 serrano or jalapeno chile

1/4 barely ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 small tomatillo, husk removed, rinsed, and cut into 1/2-inch slices

1 very small shallot love, finely chopped

Finely grated zest of 1 lime

Juice of 1/2 lime

1 teaspon agave nectar or honey

3 large sea scallops (about 3 ounces), or 3 ounces large to extra-large shrimp

Kosher or sea salt

1 tablespoon peanut, vegetable, or canola oil

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the soup base, then whisk in enough water or stock to reach your desired consistency. Cook for a few minutes to heat the soup through, then decrease the heat to lovw, cover, and keep it hot while you make your topping.

2. Remove the stem from the serrano and scrape out the ribs and seeds, reserving the seeds. Finely chop half the serrano, then transfer it to a small bowl. Add the avocado, tomatillo, shallot, cilantr, lime zest and juice, and agave nectar; stir to combine. Taste, and if you want the salsa spicier, add some of the serrano seeds and/or the other half of the serrano, finely chopped. 

3. Remove the large side muscle from the scallops. Then, unless they're dry-packed scallops, rinse them and thoroughly pat dry. Season the scallops with salt on each side.

4. Pour the oil into a medium skillet over medium-high heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the scallops or shrimp, making sure they aren't touching each other. Sear until they have a 1/4-inch-deep golden crust, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn them over and sear on the other side for another minute or so. Scallops should still be slightly springy to the touch,and you should be able to tell on the sides that the middle is still slightly translucent. Transfer them to a plate.

5. Ladle the soup into a wide, shallow bowl, top the salsa and then the scallops, and eat.

Spicy Black Bean Soup Base
from Joe Yonan's Serve Yourself
makes 4 to 5 cups

2 dried ancho, guajillo, or New Mexico chiles, or more to taste
1/2 pound dried black beans (1 heaping cup)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 shallot loves or 1/2 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, plus more as needed

1. Tear, break, or use scissors to cut the anchos into small strips or pieces. Combine them with the bean in a large bowl and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Let soak for at least 6 hours or overnight.

2. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery shallots, garlic, cinnamon, and allspice. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook the vegetables slowly until they start to become tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the beans, chiles, their soaking liquid, and enough water to cover the beans by 1 inch. Increase the heat to high to bring the contents to a boil. Then decrease the heat to low so that the liquid is at a bare simmer.

4. Cover and gently cook until the beans are very tender, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the beans. Add the salt, cook for a few more minutes, then let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup, then taste and adjust the salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can puree it in a blender or food processor. If you are using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the soup.

6. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate up to 1 week, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags, pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Chicken Nachos Blanco with Tomatillo Salsa

While I am a fan of authentic Mexican cuisine, particularly Oaxacan, I also indulge in foods that many Mexicans wouldn't even recognize. Nachos are a prime example. Rick Bayless has provided me with an ample supply of genuine recipes that combine cheese, tortillas, and salsa, but sometimes a Friday night just calls for some homemade bar snacks.

My winter CSA starts on Wednesday, so I've been steadily working through all the spoils of my summer garden that I've preserved in my freezer in order to make room for the bounty of the new season. My tomatillo plants were more than generous this year and though I've turned all my tomatillo sauces into chilaquiles and smothered burritos, I decided to make a little more room by digging into my cache of tomatillo salsas. Because nachos already lack authenticity, anything goes in terms of toppings, but sometimes you can't beat a simple combination of salsa, cheese, and chips, especially when made better with homemade and high-quality ingredients. Using a cheese sauce ensures that the maximum amount of surface area is coated with dairy goodness, and the spicy tomatillo salsa is just the right accent to cut through the richness. Layering the ingredients packs every bite with salsa, cheese, and chicken, and giving the finished dish a quick toast in the oven melds every flavor together.

It may take a little longer than melting some salsa and Velveeta together, but it's exactly the reward you deserve after a long day. And don't forget to whip up a fresh margarita while the nachos are in the oven.

Chicken Nachos Blanco with Tomatillo Salsa
serves 1

1/2 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
1/2 tablespoon flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup milk
2 ounces shredded sharp cheddar cheese
2 ounces tortilla chips
1/2 cup shredded or chopped cooked chicken
1/2 cup tomatillo salsa

1. Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add onions and a pinch each of salt and pepper and saute until the onions are tender, just a couple of minutes. Add the flour, stir to form a paste, and cook until any foaming stops, the raw flour flavor is gone, but the roux is not brown, about 2 minutes. Add milk, bring to a gentle simmer, and cook over low to medium-low heat until the mixture is thick, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add cheese, stir until melted and keep warm.

2. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place half the chips on an oven-safe dish and top with half of the cheese sauce, chicken, and salsa. Repeat layers with remaining ingredients. Bake until all ingredients are warmed through and cheese sauce is beginning to bubble, about 5 to 10 minutes. Remove from oven and serve promptly.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce

Earlier this week I shared a recipe for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce, so it now it's time to share one that is a bit farther down the cooked scale. In the previous sauce the flavor profile featured the tartness, but in this sauce acidic notes are muted in favor of a deeper, earthier flavor. It doesn't go as far as Roasted Tomatillo Salsa, which is all about the roasted and smoky flavors, but nicely bridges those two extremes. Again we see chiles, cilantro, and onion making an appearance, garlic and stock fortifying the flavor even further. With that usual cast of characters, this is most certainly a pleasing preparation for any tomatillo lover, but the gentler acidic character will appeal to larger audience of non-tomatillo devotees.

Any of the suggestions I made for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce are just as appropriate for this variation, though I heartily endorse its use in the shredded pork chilaquiles pictured above. As I steadily make my way through my freezer cache in order to make room for my impending winter CSA, I am both delighting in the revisiting these summer flavors and sad to see them go. But when you love food and cooking as much as I do, each day has the potential for culinary adventure. Who knows? This concentrated summer flavor just may end up meeting up with hearty winter squash.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce
makes about 2 1/2 to 3 cups
adapted from Authentic Mexican by Rick Bayless

1 pound (11 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and washed OR two 13-ounce cans tomatillos, drained
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 3 chiles serranos or 2 chiles jalapenos), stemmed
5 or 6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1 large garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon lard or vegetable or canola oil
2 cups any low-sodium poultry, meat, or vegetable broth or stock (depending on how the sauce is to be used)
Salt, about 1/2 teaspoon (depending on the saltiness of the broth)

1. The tomatillos. Boil the fresh tomatillos and chiles in salt water to cover until tender, 10 to 15 minutes; drain. Simply drain the canned tomatillos.

2. The puree. Place the tomatillos and chiles (raw ones if using canned tomatillos) in a blender or food processor, along with the coriander, onion, and garlic; if using a blender, stir well. Process until smooth, but still retaining a little texture.

3. The sauce. Heat the lard or oil in a medium-large skillet set over medium-high. When hot enough to make a drop of the puree sizzle sharply, pour it in all at once and stir constantly for 4 or 5 minutes, until darker and thicker. Add the broth, let return to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and simmer until thick enough to coat a spoon, about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce

I finally cleaned out my gardens last week. My final harvest yielded a good amount of eggplant, some jalapenos, poblanos, and mini sweet bell peppers, a couple tomatoes, a surprise 2+ pound zucchini the size of my forearm, and even a few last tomatillos from plants that looked like they were in their death throes, yet were flowering at the same time. Apparently it's not just my mutant plants hanging on for dear life, as I saw a couple vendors still selling a few tomatillos, but I thought I should share a few last tomatillo recipes before all vestiges of this favorite fruit disappear.

If you know me or Mexican cooking, it should be no surprise that I went straight to Rick Bayless for recipes. I can't say enough about how much I love his cookbooks and recipes, so I expect nothing less than  perfection when I try his recipes. And you know what? I'm never disappointed. I've made seemingly countless tomatillo sauces at this point, mostly from his recipes, all with their own unique character. As the name would suggest, this sauce is fresh and vibrant, celebrating all the tart and citrusy notes of the tomatillo. Hot chiles, cilantro, and onion are familiar companions, this classic combination just as delicious with barely cooked tomatillos as deeply roasted ones.

There's no end to the ways this sauce can be used. A few suggestions include a dip for chips, topping for tacos, tostados, and eggs, or sauce for smothered burrito pictured above, though that is certain not an exhaustive list. If you like tomatillos, you're almost guaranteed to love this sauce, relishing in it's spicy, tart flavor brightens up any dish it is added to.

Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce

from Authentic Mexican 20th Anniversary Ed: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico by Rick Bayless

makes about 1 ½ cups

8 ounces (5 or 6 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and washed
OR one 13-ounce can tomatillos, drained
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 2 chiles serranos or 1 chile jalapeno), stemmed
5 or 6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
½ small onion, chopped
Salt, about ½ teaspoon

1. The tomatillos: Boil fresh tomatillos in salted water to cover until barely tender, 8 to 10 minutes; drain. Canned tomatillos only need to be drained.

2. The puree: Place the tomatillos in a blender or food processor. If you want a milder sauce, seed the chile(s), then chop into small bits and add to the tomatillos along with the coriander and chopped onion; if using a blender, stir well. Blend or process to a coarse puree.

3. Finishing the sauce: Scrape into a sauce dish, thin to medium-thick consistency with about ¼ cup water, then season with salt. Let stand for about ½ hour before serving, for the flavors to blend.

Traditional Variations

Chunky Tomatillo Sauce: Prepare the sauce as described, finely chopping the chile, onion and coriander, then adding them to the blended tomatillos. If the chopped onion is rinsed, the sauce will sour less quickly.

All-Raw Tomatillo Relish: Prepare the sauce with chopped raw tomatillos, adding ¼ cup water before blending. Taste for salt and stir in additional water, if needed.

Spicy Cold Tomatillo Soup

If there's one thing in my garden that's overproducing other than zucchini, it's tomatillos. Despite the name, tomatillos are a member of the nightshade family, related closely to ground cherries, not tomatoes. Even in the foodie culture of Madison, I'm surprised at the number of people who don't know this delicious fruit by name, though almost everyone is familiar with the wonderful flavor of salsa verde.

While addressing the zucchini crop can feel like a bit of a burden at times, I'll never complain about having too many tomatillos. From just a couple of plants I've gotten several pounds of fruit (and they're still producing), which I've turned into fresh salsa, multiple roasted salsas, and even jam. With my freezer and refrigerator well-stocked with these delicious tomatillo sauces, I needed to expand my culinary endeavors to use my garden bounty.

When I need to use up an abundance of ingredients, my first thought is always soup. This soup is a nice balance of decadence and lightness, the rich avocado and yogurt offset by fresh cucumber, onion, and cilantro, with roasted tomatillos beautifully bridging these extremes. I find that one unseeded serrano brings a nice level of heat, but for those less enthusiastic about spicy food I'd recommend removing the ribs and seeds and/or only using part of the pepper. This recipe makes enough for two main courses or four side dishes and can easily be scaled up, provided you have a large enough food processor or blender. A perfect cold soup for the waning warm days, this fresh and filling bowl of flavor satisfies with the flavors of summer, but teases the taste buds for the hearty cold weather soups and stews soon to come.

Spicy Cold Tomatillo Soup
adapted from Martha Stewart
makes about 1 quart

1 pound tomatillos, hulled and washed
3 garlic cloves
1 jalapeno or serrano chile, seeded and ribs removed for less heat
1 cup cucumber, peeled, seeded, and roughly chopped
1/4 cup roughly chopped onion
1/4 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon fresh lime (or lemon) juice
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1 small avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into small pieces
1/2 to 1 cup water

1. Heat broiler. Place tomatillos, garlic, and serrano chile in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, and roast until tomatillos are soft and browned in spots, about 5 minutes. Turn all items; continue cooking until other side is soft and browned, about 5 minutes more. Remove from heat; let cool slightly.

2. Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack; let cool completely. Peel garlic; place cloves in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Add tomatillos, serrano, and any accumulated juices along with cucumber, onion, cilantro, stock, lime juice, salt, yogurt, and avocado; blend until mixture is smooth. Add water, a few tablespoons at a time, blending after each addition, until soup reaches desired consistency. Taste and season with additional salt, if needed.

3. Transfer to a large bowl or plastic storage container; cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 2 hours before serving.

Tomatillo and Lime Jam

It's a shame that I didn't discover tomatillos until well into adulthood, because they've now become one of my favorite ingredients. I'm not sure if they were just an impulse buy at the farmers' market or I picked them up because of a Rick Bayless recipe that I wanted to try, but they now make regular appearances at my house when in season. It seems like I've made nearly every iteration of tomatillo salsa out there, so when I saw this recipe on Pati's Mexican Table on PBS one Saturday morning, I immediately put it on my culinary to-do list. Different than anything I've ever made with tomatillos before, this jam preserves the flavor of tomatillos for weeks in this sweet and spicy accent for myriad foods. I found the original recipe, which used 1 1/2 cups sugar, a bit too sweet for my taste, so I scaled back the sugar and added a spicy kick with a bit of jalapeno. This jam makes a wonderfully unexpected condiment for sandwiches, can be transformed into a delicious glaze for meats, or even just used for an adventurous piece of toast.

Tomatillo and Lime Jam
adapted from Pati's Mexican Table
makes about 1 1/4 cups

1 lb tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed and roughly chopped
1 to 1 1/2 cups sugar
1 cup water
4 tbsp fresh squeezed lime juice
Rind of a lime, whole or chopped 
Finely minced jalapeno or serrano pepper, to taste (optional)
A pinch of salt
 

1. Place all of the ingredients into a saucepan set over medium heat.  Let them come to a simmer and stir occasionally, letting them cook until it has thickened and achieved a soft and loose jam consistency, about 35 to 40 minutes. 

2. Don't wait until it has thickened too much, because it thickens considerably as it cools.  Once it has cooled down, pour it into a container, cover tightly and refrigerate.

Salmon in Luxurious Green Sesame Pipian

Oh, Rick Bayless, can you do no wrong? In addition to being consistently delicious, my favorite thing about recipes from Rick Bayless is how they make me rethink what Mexican food is, perpetually discovering new and delicious flavor combinations as well as making uncovering new ways to use favorite ingredients. I'll confess I'm no master seafood chef, but this has to be the most delicious dish I've ever made with salmon, with the added bonus of being really easy and quick to prepare. The combination of the creamy tahini and spicy tomatillo salsa is unexpectedly delicious, perfectly contrasted by the bright and fresh flavor from the cilantro and peas. The flavor of the salmon is strong enough not to disappear in this vibrantly-flavored dish, staying irresistably moist and succulent while simmering in the sauce. Served over a bed of brown rice or other grain, this is a complete, sneakily nutritious meal that could as easily be served at a dinner party as on a busy weeknight. Any fan of Mexican food or fish would be greatly remiss if they didn't give this at least give it once chance to grace their dinner table; if you are one of that legion, go forth and try a new recipe under the wise (cookbook) tutelage of the inimitable Rick Bayless.

Salmon in Luxurious Green Sesame Pipian

from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless
serves 4

2 cups store-bought or homemade tomatillo salsa
1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
1 cup chicken broth
3 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste)
Salt
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 heaping cup peas, fresh or frozen
Four 4- to 5-ounce (1 to 1 1/4 pounds total) skinless fish fillets (such as salmon, halibut, walleye, snapper or striped bass)-buy about 1 1/2 pounds if using fish steaks
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, for garnish
About 1/4 cup (loosely packed) chopped cilantro, for garnish

1. In a blender or food processor, process the salsa to a smooth purée.

2. Heat oil in a very large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high. When it is quite hot, add salsa all at once. Stir as salsa reduces to consistency of tomato paste, about 5 minutes.

3. Stir in broth and tahini. Return to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and let simmer 10 minutes. Taste and season with salt, usually about 1/2 teaspoon, and a little sugar. (The sugar will help balance the natural tartness of the salsa). 

4. While sauce is simmering, pour the peas into a microwaveable bowl, sprinkle on a tablespoon of the water, cover with plastic wrap and poke a couple of holes in the top. Microwave on high (100%) until the peas are hot and tender, anywhere from 1 minute from frozen peas to 4 or 5 minutes for fresh peas; discard water.

5. When the sauce has simmered for 10 minutes, nestle the fish fillets in it, completely submerging them. Continue simmering gently until the fish flakes when pressed firmly, usually 5 to 6 minutes for 1/2-inch-thick fillets. (Check it by lifting up a fillet on a metal spatula and pressing with your finger or the back of a spoon.)

6. Transfer a fish fillet to each dinner plate. Spoon a portion of the sauce over top. Strew with the peas, sesame seeds and cilantro, and you're ready for dinner.

Smoky Chipotle Salsa with Pan-Roasted Tomatillos

Since the season for tomatillos at the farmers' market is nearly at an end, I'll take the opportunity to share one last stellar salsa recipe, from the genius mind of the inimitable Rick Bayless. This is not a salsa for the faint of heart, packed with smokiness and lots of heat courtesy of the chipotles en adobo. Unless you really love spice, you can't dig into this in like fresh or roasted tomatillo salsa, but just a small amount adds a ton of flavor to tacos, enchiladas, fajitas, or quesadillas. It also blends beautifully with sour cream as a dip for tortilla chips, tempering the heat of the chipotles with creamy, rich sour cream. And if you're stuffed from allergies or your first cold of the season, make up a batch of this spicy salsa to clear your sinuses right up!

Smoky Chipotle Salsa with Pan-Roasted Tomatillos
from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless
makes about 1 1/4 cups

3 garlic cloves, peeled
4 medium (about 8 ounces total) tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and cut in half
2 canned chipotle chiles en adobo (or more, if you like really spicy salsa)
Salt

1. Set a large (10-inch) nonstick skillet over medium-high heat (if you don't have a nonstick skillet, lay in a piece of foil). Lay in the garlic and tomatillos (cut side down). When the tomatillos are well-browned, 3 or 4 minutes, turn everything over and brown the other side. (The tomatillos should be completely soft).

2. Scoop the garlic and tomatillos into a blender jar or food processor, along with the chiles and 1/4 cup water. Process to a coarse puree. Pour into a salsa dish and cool.

3. Thin with a little additional water if necessary to give the salsa an easily spoonable consistency. Taste and season with salt, usually a generous 1/2 teaspoon.

Salsa de Tomatillo en Molcajete

In my opinion, these are really the glory days of the farmers' market. Summer delicacies like sweet corn and watermelon are still plentiful, but a bumper crop of apples and pears have started to appear and the first winter squash are making their appearance. As the seasons change, my diet will move toward heartier fare, but I'm not quite ready to let go of tastes of summer just yet, and couldn't resist another salsa with one of my favorite, but fleeting, ingredients, tomatillos. This is a fairly typical roasted tomatillo salsa recipe, with the exception of one ingredient-extra-virgin olive oil. Just one tablespoon of olive oil makes the salsa smooth and rich, a perfect contrast to the spice from the serranos and acidic punch of the lime juice. It's a great salsa to transition from summer to fall, with its roasted and luxurious flavor bridging the light and bright quality of summer fare with the smoky, hearty flavors of fall. While irresistible piled high on a tortilla chip, this salsa also makes a fantastic sauce for enchiladas (or topping for any other Mexican-inspired dish) and accompaniment to collegiate or NFL football.


Salsa de Tomatillo en Molcajete*
from Saveur
makes about 1 cup

1 lb. tomatillos, husked and rinsed

4 serrano chiles, stemmed

3 cloves garlic, peeled

1 tsp. kosher salt

1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro

2 tbsp. minced white onion

2 1/2 tsp. fresh lime juice

1 tbsp. olive oil

(*A molcajete is a Mexican mortar and pestle, typically made from basalt, traditionally used to grind spices, make guacamoles and salsa, and could be used here, if desired)

1. Position an oven rack 4" from broiler; heat to high. Place tomatillos, chiles, and garlic on a foil-lined baking sheet and broil, turning often, until blackened in spots and cooked through, about 10 minutes for the garlic and chiles, and 15 minutes for the tomatillos; remove each ingredient as it finishes cooking.

2. Place roasted chiles, garlic, and salt in a food processor and puree until smooth; add tomatillos, cilantro, onion, and lime juice. Pulse until roughly chopped. Transfer to a bowl and stir in oil.

Creamy Shrimp and Rice Stuffed Peppers

Are you ready for some football? With the NFL season premiering tonight, it is prime season for consuming mass quantities of delicious snacks. Although I usually use Packer games as an excuse to indulge in junk food (and Wisconsin microbrews), sometimes it's nice to have something a bit healthier(though never at the price of flavor) and these stuffed peppers fit the bill. They're creamy, cheesy, and satisfying, but filled with seafood, whole grains, and vegetables, and easy to prepare in large quantities if you're having friends and family over for the game. And what's more appropriate than something smothered in cheese with the game if you're a Packer fan (like me)? Serve these alongside some chips and salsa for a game day snack you can indulge in without feeling guilty. Already have big plans for some deep-fried deliciousness with the game? Make up a batch of these with a side of veggies for a quick and tasty dinner another night.

Creamy Shrimp and Rice Stuffed Peppers
serves 4

4 small bell peppers or large poblano peppers
1/2 cup sour cream
1/2 cup roasted tomatillo (or other) salsa
1 cup cooked brown rice
8 ounces cooked salad shrimp, thawed, rinsed, and patted dry
1/2 cup chopped scallions
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup shredded Monterey Jack or mozzarella cheese

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Cover a baking sheet with aluminum foil and spray with cooking spray. Place peppers, cut side down, on prepared baking sheet and spray top side lightly with cooking spray. Roast peppers, rotating baking sheet halfway through, until peppers are tender but not falling apart, about 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, mix sour cream and salsa together in a large bowl. Add rice, shrimp, scallions, and cilantro and stir well to combine. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.

3. Divide rice mixture evenly among the four pepper halves, top with shredded cheese, return to the oven, and cook until cheese is melted and just starting to brown, about 4 to 6 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve hot.

Roasted Tomatillo Salsa

One of my coworkers and I have somewhat of an obsession with tomatillos. Probably like most people who enjoy tomatillos, we both mainly use them for salsa, but I've been searching for new recipes with a lot more fervor lately. But as great as it is to get creative, it's always good to start with the basics, and where better to start for Mexican recipes than the incomparable Rick Bayless.

Contrary to what their name may lead you to believe, tomatillos are members of the nightshade family and closely related to gooseberries, not tomatoes. Tomatillos are a staple in Mexican cuisine and used in many of the same applications as tomatoes, both raw and roasted. While raw tomatillos are bright and fresh, roasted tomatillos are smoky and smooth with just an acidic bite. Both forms are delicious and you can't beat the ease of fresh tomatillo salsa (blend tomatillos, garlic, and hot chiles in a food processor, add chopped onion, cilantro, and salt to taste), most of the time I think it's worth it to roast the ingredients. You'll definitely get hungry and impatient as the aroma of the roasting tomatillos, garlic, and peppers wafts through the house, but it'll all be worth it when you can load up some tortilla chips and dig in. (For what it's worth, my favorite tortilla chips are Frontera brand, Rick Bayless' company). The roasted salsa also holds up longer in the fridge than the fresh version if you have enough self-control not to eat an entire batch in a day or two. And if you're generous enough not to want to keep it all for yourself, take this simple but scrumptious salsa to your Labor Day cookout or football game and please your friends and family with this likely unfamiliar ingredient.

Roasted Tomatillo Salsa
from Rick Bayless
makes about 1 cup

8 ounces (3 to 4 medium) tomatillos, husked and rinsed
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (1 or 2 serranos or 1 jalapeños), stemmed
2 large garlic cloves, peeled
6 sprigs of fresh cilantro (thick bottom stems cut off), roughly chopped
1/2 small white onion, finely chopped
Salt

1. Roast the tomatillos, chile(s) and garlic on a rimmed baking sheet 4 inches below a very hot broiler, until blotchy black and softening (they’ll be turning from lime green to olive), about 5 minutes.  Flip them over and roast the other side.  Cool, then transfer everything to a blender, including all the delicious juice the tomatillos have exuded during roasting. Add the cilantro and 1/4 cup water, then blend to a coarse puree. Scoop into a serving dish. Rinse the onion under cold water, then shake to remove excess moisture.  Stir into the salsa and season with salt, usually 1/2 teaspoon.