Cauliflower Fried Rice with Shrimp

Unless I'm medically required, you'll never catch me signing up for a restrictive diet. I'm not dropping gluten or becoming a vegan, and you'll certainly never catch me going paleo. But just because I don't buy in fully to one of those lifestyles, it doesn't mean I can't glean a few good ideas. The recent popularity of the gluten and paleo diets has led people to find a lot of creative alternatives for bread and grains, one of them being cauliflower. Although I'm not about to stop chowing down on (whole) grains, I am definitely for adding more vegetables to my diet, so I decided to give cauliflower rice a shot.

Fried rice is one of my go-to dinners when I'm short on time, have a lot of odds and ends in the fridge that need to be used up, or both, and I figured incorporating this new prep into a tried-and-true favorite was a good place to start. Other than using cauliflower, this a classic fried rice recipe, full of all the flavors you hope to find in your Chinese take-out and the perfect vehicle to test drive this new substitution. And you know what? This turned out just as wonderful as the original. Grated cauliflower has a strikingly similar texture to cooked rice and soaks up flavors just as eagerly, with the added benefit of picking up an even more delicious brown crust. It may not replace the original version, but this certainly hasn't seen its last appearance at my dinner table.

Cauliflower Fried Rice with Shrimp
adapted from The Kitchn
serves 2

1/2 head cauliflower

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil, plus more for finishing
2 eggs, beaten

8 ounces shrimp, peeled (and deveined, if desired)
1/2 cup diced or shredded carrots
1/2 cup frozen peas
4 scallions, sliced into thin rounds
2 to 3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 to 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1/2-inch freshly grated ginger

2-3 cloves minced garlic 

Sriracha or other hot suace

1. Cut cauliflower into quarters. Grate cauliflower using grater or food processor until coarse.

2. Place a skillet over medium heat and add a teaspoon of oil. Scramble the eggs, breaking them into small curds. When the eggs are just barely cooked, scrape them into a clean dish and set them aside.

3.  Add another teaspoon of oil to the pan, add the shrimp, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until shrimp is opaque and cooked through, 2 to 4 minutes, depending on the size of the shrimp.

4. Add another teaspoon of oil to the pan and stir in the grated cauliflower. Make sure all the grains of cauliflower are coated with a little oil, then spread the rice into a thin layer across the bottom of the pan. Let it cook for a few minutes, then gather it together and spread it out thin again. Continue until the rice is toasted and beginning to brown.

5. Add two tablespoons of soy sauce, one tablespoon of rice wine vinegar, and ginger and garlic and stir. Add the peas and carrots, cooking until they are tender and warmed through. Stir in the eggs, shrimp, and scallions.

6. Taste and add more soy sauce and rice wine vinegar if needed. Finish with hot sauce and sesame oil, to taste

Butternut Squash and Pea Curry

I'm a little hesitant to make any recipe with the word winter in name right now, but just because I've grown tired of winter weather doesn't mean I've lost love for everything bearing that moniker. Be it November or March, the sweet creaminess of butternut squash is a perfect mate for curry, and I won't deny myself one of my favorite veggies just because of its seasonal name. A squash by any other name would taste as sweet...

Mark Bittman specializes in bringing good food, in terms of flavor and nutrition, to the masses. I've been lucky enough to see him speak, and his palpable passion for sustainable, healthy, flavorful food combined with pragmatism is what I think has made his approach resonate with so many people. This recipe is a prime example of that enthusiastic, yet practical approach, tons of flavor and nutrition packed into an inexpensive meal that is prepared quickly and freezes well. There's no special twist or magic to this recipe, just a classic combination of ingredients with an undeniable affinity for each other, that I've made even more flexible. The hearty base squash or sweet potato base eagerly soaks up aromatic curry spices and rich coconut milk, happily punctuated with verdant peas or beans for a well-rounded collection of vegetal flavors.

Even in its simplest form, this is a flavorful vegan dinner, but I encourage you to dress it up to your heart's content. Plain yogurt, hot sauce, and fresh cilantro are my finishes of choice, but particularly ravenous diners may also want to include grilled chicken or tofu. Whether mixed into a bowl of rice, or messily scooped with naan or pita, you'll leave this meal feeling healthy and satisfied.

Butternut Squash and Pea Curry

adapted from How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman

serves 4

2 tablespoons olive or canola oil
1 onion, chopped
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

2 to 4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
1 1/2 pounds butternut or other winter squash, peeled and roughly chopped (or sweet potatoes, or a combination)

1/2 to 1 cup fresh or frozen peas (or green beans)
1 to 1 1/2 cups coconut milk, stock or water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Red pepper flakes, to taste (optional)
Rice, naan, or pita, for serving (optional)
Chopped fresh cilantro leaves, for serving (optional)

Sour cream or yogurt, for serving (optional)
Hot sauce, for serving (optional)

1. Put the oil in a pot or deep skillet with a tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the curry, ginger, and garlic and cook until the onion just starts to brown, about 2 minutes.

2. Add the squash and coconut milk and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes to taste. Bring to a boil, cover, and turn the heat down to low. Cook, stirring periodically, until the squash is just tender, about 20 minutes, checking periodically to make sure there is adequate liquid; if the squash is done and there is still a lot of liquid, remove the lid and turn the heat to medium-high until it’s thicker than stew. Add frozen peas and cook until warmed through. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve hot or warm over rice or naan with choice of garnishes.

Paneer and Pea Curry With Sweet Potato Hash

For a couple of weeks, I think I ate sweet potatoes every single day. I blame Joe Yonan and his many delicious variations on sweet potato soup for starting this obsession, but the success of Thai sweet potato curry certainly didn't slow it down. In a fine conclusion to that craze, this recipe combines sweet potatoes, curry, and Joe Yonan's recipe expertise, every bite of this as delightful as its culinary predecessors.

Before this recipe, I'd always served my curries with the traditional rice or naan, or even quinoa, but it had never crossed my mind to serve it over sweet potato hash. The hash, with its lovely crispy bits, is the perfect contrast to the tender vegetables and cheese, the sweet potato eagerly soaking up the the rich coconut milk and brilliant spices of the garam masala. I love recipes like this because they perfectly toe the line between fresh and hearty, hitting your taste buds with equal parts soul and stomach satisfying starch, light and bright vegetables, and savory cheese. (As a born and bred Wisconsinite, you're not likely to find me swapping out cheese in a recipe, but if you're vegan or can't find any paneer, extra-firm tofu will make a suitable substitute.) Until Mother Nature decides she's ready to let go of winter and full embrace spring, these cozy bowls are just the ticket to a happy, healthy lady with enough energy to shovel the driveway.

Paneer and Pea Curry With Sweet Potato Hash
adapted from The Washington Post
serves 4

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
5 cloves garlic, chopped
1 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and grated
Sea salt
8 ounces paneer (Indian fresh cheese) or drained extra-firm tofu, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3-inch piece ginger root, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons garam masala (or curry powder)
2 cups fresh or frozen/defrosted peas (about 9 ounces)
1 cup no-salt-added canned crushed or diced tomatoes, with their juices
1/4 cup low-fat coconut milk or cream
Yogurt, sour cream, or creme fraiche, for serving (optional)
Hot sauce, for serving (optional)

1. Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a large skillet over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, add half of the onion and half of the garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until tender. Increase the heat to medium-high and stir in the sweet potatoes. Sprinkle with salt to taste. Cook the sweet potatoes, stirring and scraping them from the pan occasionally, until they are browned in spots and tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat.

2. Sprinkle the paneer pieces with salt. Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a separate large skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the paneer and cook for a few minutes, until deeply browned on one side, then turn the cubes over to brown deeply on the second side.

3. Reduce the heat to medium. Pour in the remaining tablespoon of oil, then stir in the ginger, garam masala and remaining half of the garlic and onions. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are tender and the garam masala has bubbled and bloomed. Stir in the peas, the tomatoes and their juices and the coconut milk. Once the mixture starts bubbling around the edges, taste, and add salt as needed. Cook until the peas are tender and the flavors have melded, about 5 minutes.

4. Divide the sweet potato hash among individual plates. Spoon the paneer-pea curry on top and garnish with yogurt and hot sauce. Serve hot.

Spinach and Pea Soup

Lately I've really been embracing the idea of warm weather soups. Gazpacho is probably the most obvious summer choice, but I've been more interested in cooked soups before the weather is too oppressive. In the dog days of summer I'm sure to revisit the gazpacho issue, but for now I'm loving these vegetable-packed soups that can be served cold, room temperature or warm. Each bowl is a concentrated expression of the fresh flavor of the season and a great way to pack a lot of nutrition into a small package. The short list of ingredients might make this recipe seem too simple, but the bounty of the farmers' market packs each bite with terroir and sunshine. Lemon juice adds an often neglected acidic element that brightens the entire soup and brings out nuanced flavor that would otherwise just be blended into general green goodness. This verdant soup becomes a complete meal with a side salad and piece of crusty bread or sandwich; I really loved it with the guacamole toast shown above. Like so many of the recipes I make, leftovers can happily be frozen for a taste of this agricultural moment at the ready anytime.

Spinach and Pea Soup
adapted from Martha Stewart
serves 4 (as a side)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, minced
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 3/4 cups homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken or vegetable stock or water
1 pound fresh English peas, shelled (about 1 cup)
8 ounces spinach (curly or flat leaf), tough stems discarded (about 6 cups packed leaves)
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1. Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper. Cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Add stock, and bring to a boil.

2. Add peas, and return to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until peas are tender and bright green, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in spinach. Cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until spinach has wilted, 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Remove pot from heat and puree pea mixture using an immersion blender. Stir in 1 teaspoon lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Skillet Tuna Noodle Casserole

I make sure to eat seafood at least once a week. Sometimes it's high end sushi, most often it's salmon, but sometimes it's just canned tuna. Luckily for me, affordable canned (or rather pouched) tuna was perfectly suited for my latest craving - tuna noodle casserole. Cookbooks and websites abound with recipes for tuna casserole, but I couldn't easily find one that suited my needs when I was dining solo. Since I crave variety and can't keep up with recipes I have bookmarked, I'm always trying to find and develop and recipes to feed only one or two. Recipes often don't scale down easily for just a couple of diners, but it was easily to build this basic tuna noodle casserole recipe from the ground up. I started with a simple bechamel sauce, using it to blend together whole wheat pasta, peas, and tuna, a healthier riff on the traditional condensed soup and egg noodle version. Whole wheat bread crumbs and nutty Parmesan add a lovely layer of crunch and flavor on top and just the right amount of texture to this creamy dish. It's basic and satisfying, but the bechamel could easily be punched up with whatever herbs and spices you have on hand. Whether you're craving a homemade bowl of comfort now to combat this winter that just won't end or wait until spring peas make their first appearance, this cozy meal is sure to please.

Skillet Tuna Noodle Casserole
serves 1 hungry person or 2 light appetites

2 ounces whole wheat fusili or other small pasta
1/2 cup frozen peas
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon flour
1 cup low-fat milk
One 2.6-ounce pouch tuna
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper (optional)
1 tablespoon whole wheat bread crumbs
1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Bring a medium pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook pasta to just shy of al dente, about 9 minutes, adding peas during last minute of cook time. Drain, reserving ~1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.

2. Meanwhile, melt butter in a small oven-proof pan. When butter is melted, add flour and stir well to combine. Cook, stirring constantly, until the roux is light brown, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add milk, stirring constantly, and bring mixture to a simmer. Simmer until mixture is thickened, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add pasta, peas, and tuna, stir to combine, and season to taste with salt and pepper and red pepper flakes (if using).

3. Combine bread crumbs and Parmesan in a small bowl. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the pasta Place the pan in the oven and cook until mixture is bubbly and bread crumbs are toasted, about 5 to 10 minutes. Serve promptly.

Indian-Spiced Cauliflower and Peas with Whole Wheat Pasta

Although it's a bit of fad, I really like Meatless Mondays. Like reusable bags and all manner of going green, this trend is one I hope to see continue. Chances are I've indulged a bit too much over the weekend and on Monday I need to get back to good habits with whole grains and plenty of vegetables. It's not to say that I don't enjoy dishes like that any other day of the week, but it is psychologically important to me to get the week off on the right foot. Chances also are that on Mondays I don't have a ton of motivation or time, and that's where easy, healthy pasta dishes become indispensable. This recipe became part of my menu during my last cauliflower kick before my CSA destined me to a winter of squash and root vegetables. I love all manner of ethnic food, but I find the spices used in Indian cooking particularly complementary to cauliflower, evidenced by the fact it shows up so often in that cuisine. Cauliflower isn't quite a blank canvas, but it does readily soak up all the fragrant spices that Indian cuisine has to offer. The heartiness of the cauliflower is balanced by fresh peas and acidic tomatoes, which blend nicely on a bed of nutty whole wheat pasta. Bursting with flavors of warmer climes, but satisfying enough for a cool fall day, this meal is an ideal transition between the seasons.

Indian-Spiced Cauliflower and Peas with Whole Wheat Pasta

adapted from Food and Wine

serves 4

2 tablespoons cooking oil
1 onion, cut into thin slices
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 1/4 teaspoons ground cumin
1 1/4 teaspoons ground coriander
1/2 head cauliflower, cut into small florets (about 4 cups)
1/2 cup water
1 1/2 cups canned crushed tomatoes (one 16-ounce can)
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup frozen petit peas
1/3 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 pound small whole wheat pasta (penne, rotini, fusili, orecchiette, etc.)

1. In a large frying pan, heat the oil over moderately low heat. Add the onion and cook until starting to soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic, cumin, and coriander and cook until fragrant, 2 minutes longer.

2. Add the cauliflower to the onion mixture; stir to coat. Add the water, bring to a simmer, cover, and steam for 3 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and salt. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Add the peas and cilantro and cook until the cauliflower is tender and the peas are hot, about 2 minutes longer.

3. In a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook the orecchiette until just done, about 15 minutes. Drain and toss with the sauce.

Brussels Sprouts and Carrot Ragout

Brussels sprouts get a bad rap, and undeservedly so. Because my parents had only been forced to eat them in the tasteless, overdone way of the 1950s, I was never subjected to them as a child. As an adult, I discovered Brussels sprouts through a winter CSA, and I've since come to really look forward to beginning of their season each year. I typically roast them, with a different Susie Middleton recipe being my absolute favorite way to prepare them. Susie Middleton undoubtedly knows her way around veggies, so when these popped up for the first time this year, I wasted no time trying out this Brussels sprouts recipe from her new cookbook. Sweet carrots and beautifully caramelized onions turn out to be the perfect companion these slightly bitter mini-cabbages, punctuated by a hint of pungent Dijon and a suite of acidic accents. I had this as a main dish over brown rice with a sprinkling of hazelnuts over the top, but it would be splendid as a side dish without. The butter and olive oil make this much more luxurious that you'd typically expect a vegetable dish to be and substantial enough to be satisfying. This recipe is a fitting transition from summer to fall eating, and a great way to introduce (or re-introduce) yourself to an unjustifiably maligned vegetable.

Brussels Sprouts and Carrot Ragout
adapted from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 2 or 3, or 4 with rice

3 tablespoons orange juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon Balsamic vinegar
3 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter (with 1 1/2 tablespoons cut into 6 pieces and kept chilled in the refrigerator)
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
12 ounces Brussels Sprouts, trimmed and quartered
Kosher salt
3/4 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1 1/2-inch-long and 3/8- to 1/2-inch wide sticks
1/2 pound cipollini onions, peeled and cut through the stem end into 3/4-inch wide wedges (imagine slicing a pizza)
1 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
3/4 cup frozen peas, thawed
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh tarragon
Sliced fresh chives for garnish (optional)
Short-grain brown rice for serving (optional)
1/2 cup coarsely chopped toasted hazelnuts for garnish (optional)

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the orange juice, mustard, lemon zest, and vinegar. In a large Dutch oven or other deep, wide pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-low heat. When the butter has melted, add the Brussels sprouts and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until the sprouts are all browned and tender but still somewhat firm, 10 to 14 minutes. (They will continue to cook a bit off the heat). If they are browning too fast, reduce the heat a bit. Be sure to replace the lid after stirring; it retains moisture for steaming the veggies. Transfer the sprouts to a plate and take the pan off the heat for a moment.

2. Return the pan to medium-low heat and add 1 tablespoon of the butter, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the carrots, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook, stirring frequently but gently, until the carrots are tender but not mushy (you can test with a paring knife) and nicely browned, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer the carrots to the plate with the Brussels sprouts. You will have some browning on the bottom of the pan.

3. Reduce the heat to low and add 1 tablespoons of the oil, the onions, and a big pinch of salt to the pan. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are browned and tender, 6 to 8 minutes. (They will have lost their stiffness and opacity and a few will be falling apart). Uncover, add the garlic, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Return the carrots and Brussels sprouts to the pan and add the peas and orange juice mixture. Stir well, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, and continue to cook just until the vegetables have absorbed almost all the liquid. (This will happen quickly.) Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cold butter, a few pieces at a time, just until melted and creamy. Stir in the chopped tarragon.

4. Serve immediately, garnished with the chives (if using) or serve it over the brown rice, garnished with hazelnuts (if you like).

New Potato Salad with Fresh Peas, Lime, and Yogurt

When I made Potato Salad with Green Beans and Salsa Verde on the 4th of July, after we finished eating, my husband asked if I'd considered making a creamy potato salad before I chose that recipe. He's much more of a traditionalist that I am (some might say a bit unadventurous), and although he'll general choose simple foods when ordering at a restaurant, he'll indulge me when I serve less-than-traditional meals, often making unexpectedly delicious discoveries. This recipe is a great example of how to toe the line between between traditional and adventurous and healthy and indulgent. The dressing has all the wonderful creaminess of a traditional potato salad, lightened up with Greek yogurt or sour cream whose tanginess magnifies the freshness of the peas, mint, and scallions. Like in Potato Salad with Green Beans and Salsa Verde, I love potato salad that also has vegetables, not only because it makes it healthier, but because it condenses the starch and vegetables side dishes into one. If your dining companions aren't quite ready for lime and/or mint in their potato salad, feel free to substitute lemon juice or vinegar and parsley or chives or whatever acid and herbs strike your fancy. Whether you're looking to lighten up cook-out fare or simply branch out a bit from tradition, this dish definitely deserves a place at your summer table.

New Potato Salad with Fresh Peas, Lime, and Yogurt
adapted from Fast, Fresh, and Green by Susie Middleton
serves 4

1 lb baby Yukon Gold potatoes or new potatoes
2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more if needed
1 lb fresh peas in the pod, shelled, yielding 1 cup peas (frozen are okay too)
1/3 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup thick Greek-style yogurt (whole or 2%) or sour cream
1 teaspoon loosely packed finely grated lime zest (from about 1 lime)
1/2 teaspoon fresh lime juice
1/4 cup sliced scallions
3 tbsp thinly sliced fresh mint leaves
Freshly ground black pepper

1. Put the potatoes and 2 teaspoons of the salt in a large saucepan and cover with plenty of water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until almost tender, about 10 minutes. Add the peas and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more. Drain the potatoes and peas carefully in a colander and rinse them gently with cool water for a few minutes. Spread the potatoes and peas out on a small rimmed sheet pan and refrigerate for 20 minutes to cool.

2. Meanwhile, whisk the mayonnaise, yogurt or sour cream, lime zest, and lime juice in a medium mixing bowl. Add the cooled potatoes and peas, the scallions, 2 tablespoons of the mint, the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and several grinds of black pepper. Mix gently but thoroughly with a silicone spatula. Taste and add a little more salt, if desired. Garnish with the remaining 1 tablespoon mint.

Pea and Parsley Pesto with Linguine

This is definitely a meal that feels like spring. Although the recent temperatures may be fooling us into thinking summer has already arrived, the calendar tells us that we've just barely passed the vernal equinox and I certainly don't want to skip over the quintessential flavors of spring. Although it's still a bit too early for farmer's market peas and parsley (though I have seen the first broccoli!), this dish is full of fresh flavor and definitely honors the spirit of spring dining. Pesto purists may balk at the idea of using anything other than pine nuts and basil, but my open mind and palate was more than delighted by the balanced combination of peas, parsley, and walnuts with de rigueur Parmesan and olive oil. You'll only use about half of the pesto in this recipe, so I recommend portioning the pesto into ice cube trays and freezing for a delicious sauce at your fingertips any time. If you're serving carnivores that simply can't enjoy a meal without meal, grilled chicken breast would be a great addition to this recipe, but it is completely satifying as is. Fresh, salty, nutty, and savory, this pasta is sure to please anytime from busy workday to romantic date night.

Pea and Parsley Pesto with Linguine
adapted from Everyday Food
serves 4

2 cups frozen peas (from a 10-ounce bag)
1 cup packed fresh parsley leaves
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted
2/3 cup grated Parmesan, plus more for serving
3 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and ground pepper
12 ounces whole wheat linguine or spaghetti

1. Cook 1 cup peas according to package instructions. In a food processor, combine cooked peas, parsley, walnuts, Parmesan, garlic, and 1 tablespoon water. Pulse until a paste forms. With machine running, slowly add oil, processing until blended; season with salt and pepper.

2. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook pasta according to package instructions, adding 1 cup peas 30 seconds before end of cooking. Reserve 1 cup pasta water; drain pasta and peas. Return pasta and peas to pot; toss with 3/4 cup pesto (reserve remainder for another use), adding enough pasta water to create a sauce that coats pasta. Serve pasta with more Parmesan.

Salmon in Luxurious Green Sesame Pipian

Oh, Rick Bayless, can you do no wrong? In addition to being consistently delicious, my favorite thing about recipes from Rick Bayless is how they make me rethink what Mexican food is, perpetually discovering new and delicious flavor combinations as well as making uncovering new ways to use favorite ingredients. I'll confess I'm no master seafood chef, but this has to be the most delicious dish I've ever made with salmon, with the added bonus of being really easy and quick to prepare. The combination of the creamy tahini and spicy tomatillo salsa is unexpectedly delicious, perfectly contrasted by the bright and fresh flavor from the cilantro and peas. The flavor of the salmon is strong enough not to disappear in this vibrantly-flavored dish, staying irresistably moist and succulent while simmering in the sauce. Served over a bed of brown rice or other grain, this is a complete, sneakily nutritious meal that could as easily be served at a dinner party as on a busy weeknight. Any fan of Mexican food or fish would be greatly remiss if they didn't give this at least give it once chance to grace their dinner table; if you are one of that legion, go forth and try a new recipe under the wise (cookbook) tutelage of the inimitable Rick Bayless.

Salmon in Luxurious Green Sesame Pipian

from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless
serves 4

2 cups store-bought or homemade tomatillo salsa
1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
1 cup chicken broth
3 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste)
Salt
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 heaping cup peas, fresh or frozen
Four 4- to 5-ounce (1 to 1 1/4 pounds total) skinless fish fillets (such as salmon, halibut, walleye, snapper or striped bass)-buy about 1 1/2 pounds if using fish steaks
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, for garnish
About 1/4 cup (loosely packed) chopped cilantro, for garnish

1. In a blender or food processor, process the salsa to a smooth purée.

2. Heat oil in a very large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high. When it is quite hot, add salsa all at once. Stir as salsa reduces to consistency of tomato paste, about 5 minutes.

3. Stir in broth and tahini. Return to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and let simmer 10 minutes. Taste and season with salt, usually about 1/2 teaspoon, and a little sugar. (The sugar will help balance the natural tartness of the salsa). 

4. While sauce is simmering, pour the peas into a microwaveable bowl, sprinkle on a tablespoon of the water, cover with plastic wrap and poke a couple of holes in the top. Microwave on high (100%) until the peas are hot and tender, anywhere from 1 minute from frozen peas to 4 or 5 minutes for fresh peas; discard water.

5. When the sauce has simmered for 10 minutes, nestle the fish fillets in it, completely submerging them. Continue simmering gently until the fish flakes when pressed firmly, usually 5 to 6 minutes for 1/2-inch-thick fillets. (Check it by lifting up a fillet on a metal spatula and pressing with your finger or the back of a spoon.)

6. Transfer a fish fillet to each dinner plate. Spoon a portion of the sauce over top. Strew with the peas, sesame seeds and cilantro, and you're ready for dinner.

Sugar Snap Peas and Pasta

Sugar snap peas are one of the vegetables I most look forward to coming into season and they are abundant at the farmer's market now, much to my delight. I'll eat them pretty much any way they are prepared (as long as they aren't overcooked), but this is the first time I've made a pasta dish where the sauce is also composed of peas, as opposed to being tossed in whole. The rich olive oil and salty, savory cheese are balanced perfectly by the fresh flavor of the peas, achieving a flavor profile similar to that of pesto. Because this is a simple sauce, the quality of each of the ingredients is of the utmost importance, so use good olive oil and cheese for the best results. You can either pass the sauce through a chinois or fine mesh strainer to achieve a smooth consistency, but you can also skip that step for a sauce with a more rustic texture, my personal preference. If you're a fan of Meatless Mondays, give this fresh summer pasta dish a try tomorrow for dinner and you won't regret it.

Sugar Snap Peas and Pasta
adapted from Gourmet, via Epicurious
serves 4

1 lb sugar snap peas, trimmed and strings discarded

12 oz. whole wheat penne

1 medium garlic clove, minced and mashed to a paste with 1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 oz finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/2 cup) plus additional for serving

1. Cook sugar snaps in an 8-quart pot of boiling salted water 2 minutes, then transfer 1 cup sugar snaps to a colander and rinse under cold water to stop cooking. Transfer cooled sugar snaps to a cutting board. Cook sugar snaps remaining in pot until tender, about 2 1/2 minutes more, then transfer with a slotted spoon to a bowl. Measure out and save 1 cup cooking water, reserving remaining water in pot.

2. Return cooking water in pot to a boil and cook pasta until al dente, then drain in colander. While pasta is cooking, cut 1 cup sugar snaps (on cutting board) crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces. Purée half of sugar snaps from bowl, half of garlic paste, 2 tablespoons oil, 1/4 cup cheese, and 1/4 cup saved cooking water in a blender (use caution when blending hot liquids), then force purée with a rubber spatula through a medium-mesh sieve into a large bowl, if desired (I actually like a rustic, chunky texture). Purée another batch in same manner, forcing through sieve into bowl, and add cut sugar snaps.

3. Toss hot pasta with sugar snap sauce and, if necessary, enough of remaining 1/2 cup saved cooking water to thin sauce to desired consistency, then season pasta with salt and pepper.

Asparagus Soup

I'm pretty confident that we really have left winter behind in southern Wisconsin, but there's still a place for warm, hearty fare like soup, although of a lighter spring variety. Asparagus and peas are some of the ingredients that most embody spring to me, and this soup is a wonderful sweet, silky marriage of these two ingredients. Teetering on the edge of winter and spring, this soup strikes a wonderful balance between the comforting and warming qualities and the fresh and bright flavors of spring. As with any good soup, it clings happily to a piece of crusty bread and rewarms beautifully for lunch the following day. In fact, the aroma proved so enticing that every single coworker who walked past my desk while I was eating lunch commented on the tantalizing smell. Keep this recipe in mind as your local outdoor farmer's market opens for the season and you want to unite the brilliant flavors of spring in a simple, satisfying meal.

Asparagus Soup
from Carla Hall via Food and Wine
serves 6

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 1/2 pounds asparagus, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 quart low-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup tarragon leaves, plus more for garnish
1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley leaves
3/4 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup frozen baby peas, thawed
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Finely grated lemon zest, for garnish

1. In a large pot, melt the butter. Add the onion, cover and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 6 minutes. Add the asparagus and cook for 1 minute. Add the broth and simmer until the asparagus is tender, about 10 minutes.

2. Add the 1/4 cup of tarragon and the parsley. Working in batches, puree the soup in a blender. Return the soup to the pot, add the cream and peas; rewarm. Season with salt and white pepper and garnish with tarragon and zest.

Curried Quinoa with Chickpeas

I've had the original version of this recipe bookmarked since I bought the Moosewood Restaurant New Classics cookbook several months ago because I love quinoa and am always looking for new ways to prepare it. This dish was originally intended as a side, but I turned it into a main course by adding a can of chickpeas, which pair superbly with the mix of spices in this recipe. Although most grains should be washed before cooking, this is particularly important with quinoa, as the outside of the grain is naturally coating with saponins, which are bitter and soapy-tasting and make the quinoa unpalatable. I had parsley on hand already instead of cilantro so I used that, although I cilantro would pair much better with this Indian-inspired dish. The spices in this dish are quite mild and a great way to introduce this palate of spices to those who are not familiar with them; if you like bolder flavors, increase the amount of each spice, particularly the cayenne (or fresh chile), if using. I served this alongside the profoundly simply, yet spectacularly delicious, Dijon-Roasted Cauliflower for a quick, healthy, vegetarian/vegan dinner.

Curried Quinoa with Chickpeas
adapted from Moosewood Restaurant New Classics
serves 3 to 4 as a main course or 6 to 8 as a side dish

1 cup quinoa
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup diced onions
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger root
1/2 fresh green chile, minced, or 1/8 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 3/4 cups water
1/2 cup fresh or frozen green peas
1 15-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed and drained

1. Place the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer and rinse it with cold water. Drain well.

2. In a heavy saucepan, warm the oil and saute the onions on medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes. Add the ginger, chile or cayenne, and the quinoa and cook for a minute, stirring constantly. Stir in the turmeric, coriander, cinnamon, and salt and cook for another minute, stirring.

3. Add the water and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for 15 minutes. Stir in the peas and chickpeas, cover, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the peas are tender, the chickpeas are heated through, and the water has been absorbed.

4. Before serving, fluff with a fork and add the cilantro, if you wish.

Peas with Lemon, Mint, and Scallions

I bookmarked this recipe (and I do mean in an actual book) much earlier in the summer, and I thought my chance to make it with fresh peas from the farmer's market had passed. Luckily for me, one last stand was selling sugar snap peas and I spent a part of my Saturday morning shelling two pounds of peas to get the eight ounces for this recipe, with a little left over to sprinkle over some fresh green salads. They weren't the best sugar snap peas I've had this summer, but when swirled in a rich pool of butter and heavy cream, who can complain? This dish manages to be fresh and rich at the same time, with simple, classic flavors. Although not my favorite Fast, Fresh, and Green recipe by any means, it is a good recipe that will appeal to a wide range of palates.

Peas with Lemon, Mint, and Scallions
from Fast, Fresh, and Green by Susie Middleton
serves 3

Kosher salt
8 oz. shelled green peas (about 2 cups) or frozen peas (about 1.5 cups)
2 T. unsalted butter
4 large scallions (white and light green parts), thinly sliced
1/4 c. heavy cream
2 t. finely chopped fresh mint
1/2 t. packed finely grated lemon zest
Freshly ground black pepper

1. If using fresh peas: Fill a large saucepan half full with water and 2 teaspoons salt and bring to a boil. Drop the peas into the boiling water and cook until just tender (taste one or two), 2 minutes for smaller peas, 3 minutes for larger, older peas. Begin timing immediately, don't wait for the water to return to a boil. Use a mesh strainer to transfer the peas to a dish towel or a few layers of paper towels to drain. Discard teh water the peas were boiled in, but reserve the pot.

If using frozen peas: Put the peas in a colander and run cold water over them for a few minutes until they're mostly thawed. Spread them out on a few layers of dish towel to drain.

2. Melt the butter in the reserved saucepan over low heat. Add the scallions and saute until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the heavy cream, half of the mint, then lemon zest, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook until it thickens slightly and a wooden spoon lives a wide path when scraped across the bottom of the pan, about 1 minute. Add the peas and stir until they're heated through and well coated with the sauce, 1 minute more. Remove the pan from the heat, taste for salt and pepper, and serve immediately, garnished with the remaining mint.

Orzo with Peas and Bacon

A combination of being gone last weekend and a really busy week has left me with little time to cook for dinner (and less fresh vegetables than I'd like since I didn't go to the farmer's market last weekend). I threw this flavorful dish together quickly using ingredients I already had on hand and wanted to use up. It's delicious warm, but also pretty good cold the next day if you don't have access to a microwave to heat up your lunch.

Orzo with Peas and Bacon

serves 4

4 slices bacon, cut into small pieces (preferably smoked)
8 oz. whole wheat orzo
1/2 c. chopped white onion
1 c. shelled green peas fresh or frozen, thawed (I had some left I'd frozen from the farmer's market)
Freshly ground salt and pepper
1/4 c. shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1. Heat a skillet over medium heat and add bacon pieces. Once the bacon has started to render some fat, add the chopped onion and cook until bacon is crisp and onion is browned and tender.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted to water to a boil. Add orzo and cook until just shy of al dente, around 7 minutes. Drain, reserving 2 T. of the pasta water, and set aside.

3. Add peas to bacon and onions, cook 1 minute. Add orzo and pasta water and toss mixture well to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Top with Parmiggiano-Reggiano cheese.

Quinoa and Vegetable Stir-Fry

Quinoa is a fantastic and tragically underutilized grain. It cooks quickly, has a richer flavor that rice or couscous, and is a complete protein. Sti-fries and fried rice are great ways to use lots of vegetables, so why not quinoa? It is important to wash quinoa thoroughly before cooking it because the outside is coated in saponins, soap-like substances that will definitely come in the dish through if quinoa isn't washed.

Quinoa and Vegetable Stir-Fry
adapted from Epicurious, who got it from Self

3/4 c. quinoa, rinsed
1/2 teaspoon salt, divided
1 T. sesame oil
1 small carrot, thinly sliced
1 medium orange or red bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
1 T. thinly sliced ginger
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3 c. snow peas, trimmed
1/4 t. freshly ground black pepper
1 egg, beaten
2 scallions, chopped white/light green and dark green parts divided
1/2 c. cilantro
1 T. soy sauce

1. Place quinoa in a small saucepan with 3/4 cup water and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Cover and cook, undisturbed, until quinoa absorbs water, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat, fluff with a fork and leave uncovered.

2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Cook carrot, stirring occasionally, until it softens, about 1 minute. Add bell pepper, ginger, and garlic; cook, stirring frequently, about 2 minutes. Add peas and white/light green scallion pieces, sprinkle with remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, 1 minute. Remove vegetables and return skillet to heat; add quinoa, along with egg. Cook, stirring constantly, until egg is evenly distributed, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add vegetables, dark green scallion pieces, cilantro and soy sauce; cook 1 minute more. Divide stir-fry among 4 bowls; serve warm.

Spicy Chickpea Samosas

One of the reasons I love Cooking Light magazine is that their light food has fewer calories, but still has plenty of flavor. I'm not going to eat healthy food if it doesn't taste good (lucky for me I think most fruits and vegetables are tasty) and it's great to find yet another satisfying vegetarian dish to add my repertoire. These samosas make an excellent main dish with a vegetable on the side, but would also make a nice appetizer for a small party. Although I measured approximately 2 T. of filling into each samosa, I ended up with 16 samosas instead of 12. The next time I make these I will probably try to get more filling into each one if making it as a main dish for just a few people, but probably not if making them as appetizers for a group. I'd highly recommend using fresh shelled peas if you can find them, which were available at the farmer's market this week.


Spicy Chickpea Samosas with Raita
from Cooking Light, July 2010

makes 12 samosas

Samosas:
1.5 T. canola oil
1/2 c. finely chopped carrot
1/2 c. thinly sliced green onions
2 T. minced peeled fresh ginger
1 T. minced garlic
1 T. tomato paste
1.5 t. toasted cumin seeds
1 t. brown mustard seeds
3/4 t. kosher salt
1/4 t. ground red pepper
1/4 t. freshly ground black pepper
1 c. frozen green peas, thawed (I used fresh shelled peas from the farmer's market)
1 T. water
1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas (garbanzo beans), rinsed and drained
1/2 c. chopped fresh cilantro
24 (14x9-inch) sheets frozen phyllo dough, thawed
Cooking spray
2 T. butter, melted

Raita:
3/4 c. plain nonfat Greek yogurt
3/4 c. chopped seeded peeled cucumber
2 T. thinly sliced green onions
2 T. chopped fresh cilantro
2 t. fresh lemon juice
1/4 t. kosher salt
1/4 t. ground cumin
1/8 t. freshly ground black pepper

1. To make samosas, heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add carrot; cook 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Add 1/2 c. onions, ginger, and garlic; cook 1 minute stirring constantly. Add tomato paste and next 5 ingredients (through black pepper); cook 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add peas, water, and chickpeas; cook 1 minute. Remove from heat; stir in cilantro and juice. Cool.

2. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

3. Place 1 phyllo sheet on a large work surface (cover remaining dough to keep from drying); coat with cooking spray. Place another phyllo sheet on coated phyllo; coat with cooking spray. Fold layered sheet in half lengthwise. Spoon 2 tablespoons filling onto bottom end of rectangle, leaving a 1-inch border. Fold bottom corner over mixture, forming a triangle.; keep folding back and forth into a triangle to end of phyllo strip. Tuck edges under; place seam side down on a baking sheet coated with cooking spray. Brush with melted butter. Repeat procedure with 22 remaining phyllo sheets, cooking spray, filling, and butter. Bake at 400 degrees F for 10 minutes or until crisp and golden.

  
4. To make raita, combine yogurt and remaining ingredients. Serve with samosas.

Sugar Snap Peas with Walnuts and Feta

This is so simple it almost isn't a recipe, but I wanted to share the latest way I came up with to enjoy the delicious snap peas at the farmer's market. I have a hard time even keeping the peas around long enough to make something with them since they're so delicious raw.

Sugar Snap Peas with Walnuts and Feta

makes 4 to 6 side-dish servings

1 T. roasted walnut oil
1 t. rice vinegar1 lb. sugar snap peas, trimmed
1/2 c. walnuts, roughly chopped
1/2 c. crumbled feta cheese

1. In a small bowl combine oil and vinegar and whisk to emulsify. Season to taste with salt and pepper if desired. Set aside.

2. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add peas and cook for 2 minutes until peas are bright green and crisp tender. Drain.

3. Add cheese, walnuts, and vinaigrette to warm peas and toss well to combine. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

Shrimp Fried Rice with Sugar Snap Peas

This recipe might more accurately called Shrimp Fried Rice with what-I-bought-at-the-farmer's-market-that-I-thought-would-be-good-in-fried-rice. Fried rice and stir-fry are excellent ways to use large quantities of vegetables, and staples in my diet when the farmer's market is in full swing during the summer. Contrary to what might be served in Americanized Chinese food restaurants, fried rice can be a easy and healthy dish full of vegetables and whole grains. Most fried rice recipes use peas, but not whole pea pods-I love the crunch that the whole pea pods add to the dish, and prefer them to shelled peas in almost every situation.

Shrimp Fried Rice with Sugar Snap Peas

2 eggs, beaten
1 t. + 2 T. soy sauce
1 t. + 1T. sesame oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 t. finely minced ginger
8 oz. sugar snap peas, trimmed
8 oz. sliced fresh mushrooms (I used cremini; white would also work well)
3 c. cooked brown rice
2 medium carrots, shredded
4 oz. peeled and deveined shrimp
1/2 c. thinly sliced green onion

1. In a small bowl combine eggs and the 1 t. soy sauce.

2. Preheat wok over medium heat. Pour sesame oil into wok. Add the egg mixture, garlic, and ginger, stirring gently to scramble. Once cooked, removed from heat and cut up any large pieces; set aside.

3. Put wok back on heat and preheat over medium-high heat. Add 1 T. sesame oil. Add mushrooms and sugar snap peas; stir-fry 2 to 3 minutes or until mushrooms are just starting to color and vegetables are crisp-tender.

4. Add cooked rice, carrot, and shrimp. Sprinkle mixture with 2 T. soy sauce. Cook and stir for 4 to 6 minutes or until shrimp is cooked and vegetables and rice are heated through. Add cooked egg mixture and green onion; cook and stir for about 1 minute or until mixture is heated through.

Fettuccine with Peas, Asparagus, and Pancetta

Although pancetta is delicious, I substituted prosciutto, as I already had it around. (I aused spaghetti instead of fettuccine or penne for the same reason.) Although it's not exactly the same as pancetta (bacon is often substituted for pancetta in recipes), I think the prosciutto complements the local asparagus, green onions, and herbs very nicely. The cream and cheese made this pasta rich without being too heavy. The next time I make this I think I'll substitute pea pods for the shelled peas. I served this pasta with watercress salad with a lemon juice and olive oil vinaigrette.

Fettuccine with Peas, Asparagus, and Pancetta
from Bon Appetit, May 2010

12 ounces fettuccine or penne

3 ounces pancetta or bacon, chopped 

1 1/4 pounds asparagus, trimmed, cut on diagonal into 1-inch pieces 

2 cups shelled fresh green peas, blanched 1 minute in boiling water, drained, or frozen peas (do not thaw) 

1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced, white and pale green parts separated from dark green parts 

2 garlic cloves, pressed 

1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving 

1/3 cup heavy whipping cream 

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 

1 tablespoon finely grated lemon peel 

1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley, divided 

1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh basil, divided

1. Cook pasta in pot of boiling salted water until just tender but still firm to bite. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup pasta cooking liquid. Return pasta to pot.

2. Meanwhile, cook pancetta in large nonstick skillet over medium heat until crisp. Using slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to paper towels to drain. Pour off all but 1 teaspoon drippings from skillet. Add asparagus to drippings in skillet; sauté 3 minutes. Add peas, white and pale green parts of green onions, and garlic; sauté until vegetables are just tender, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat.

3. Add vegetable mixture, 1/4 cup pasta cooking liquid, dark green parts of green onions, 1/2 cup Parmesan, cream, olive oil, lemon juice, lemon peel, half of parsley, and half of basil to pasta. Toss, adding more cooking liquid by tablespoonfuls if needed. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Transfer to large bowl. Sprinkle pancetta, remaining parsley, and basil over. Serve, passing additional Parmesan cheese.