Curried Coconut Carrot Soup

I've been on a both a curry and coconut kick lately (what a perfect pair!), leaving my freezer still bursting with the fruits of my labor. I tend to cycle through culinary phases, moving on once I've saturated my taste buds. Luckily for me, curry is a such a broad category that I've managed to keep my interest piqued while exploring a variety of curry dishes. Perhaps it's because I enjoy the convenience of this delicious spice blend or because I'm trying to forget I love the frozen north, but it seems scarcely a day has gone by recently without a curry-laced meal hitting my plate.

And it's for good reason, because as this experiment continues to prove, curry is a root vegetable's best friend. Curry spices are warm and inviting, but vibrant and interesting, elevating what could be a plain and heavy dish into an exciting meal. There's no great revelation in this recipe, but the infusion of coconut from the cooking oil and coconut milk adds a subtle extra touch that makes this a little more special than your average curried coconut soup (and there are a lot of recipes out there). Coconut on top of coconut is extra rich and luxurious and allows the soup to stand up to plenty of heat if you like to load it up with hot sauce, as I do (I highly recommend Chipotle Tabasco here). Full-fat coconut milk is a balanced choice, but you can opt for the light variety if you must save calories, or even coconut cream for an over-the-top version.

Curried Coconut Carrot Soup

adapted from The Kitchn
serves 6 to 8

2 tablespoons coconut oil
1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped
6 cups carrots, scrubbed and roughly chopped
1 quart cups vegetable or chicken stock
One 15-ounce can full-fat coconut milk
1 1/2 tablespoons freshly chopped ginger root
1 tablespoon curry powder
1/2 teaspoon chili flakes
Salt and pepper to taste
Yogurt, for garnish (optional)
Cilantro, for garnish (optional)
Hot sauce, for garnish (optional)

1. Heat the coconut oil in a large soup pot and add the onions. Sweat the onions on medium heat for about 7 minutes. Add the carrots and cook for another 5 minutes. Pour in the stock and coconut milk. Add the ginger, curry powder and chili flakes. Put a lid on the pot and cook until the carrots are softened, about 10 or 15 minutes.

2. When carrots are soft, carefully blend the soup in batches in a blender (use a towel to hold the lid down firmly) or use an immersion hand blender and puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper and garnish with yogurt, cilantro, and hot sauce, if desired.

Black Bean Soup with Seared Scallops or Shrimp and Green Salsa

The idea of concentrated soup base just isn't getting old, and as I suspected, this series of black bean soups is just as delicious as the sweet potato one. The sweet potato soups may have explored a more diverse spectrum of flavors, but this black bean soup base has lent itself exceptionally to Mexican-inspired dishes. It was first put to good use in a spicy tortilla variation, now topped generously with tender seafood and an exceptionally fresh salsa. The contrast between the the hearty soup and the fresh salsa is striking, and in the best possible way. Each bite of the black bean soup is thick and silky, punctuated perfectly by he crunchy electric green salsa. The heat from the ancho chiles in the base is subtle and smooth, but the salsa brings a bright and assertive heat of its own, tempered just enough by the creamy avocado. This filling bowl is certainly a meal on its own, but a handful of tortilla chips are an ideal final touch, perfect for crumbling over the top or scooping up generous bites.

Black Bean Soup with Seared Scallops or Shrimp and Green Salsa

adpated from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan

serves 1

1 to 1 1/2 cups Spicy Black Bean Soup Base (see below), defrosted if frozen

Up to 1/2 cup water or chicken or vegetable stock

1/2 to 1 serrano or jalapeno chile

1/4 barely ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 small tomatillo, husk removed, rinsed, and cut into 1/2-inch slices

1 very small shallot love, finely chopped

Finely grated zest of 1 lime

Juice of 1/2 lime

1 teaspon agave nectar or honey

3 large sea scallops (about 3 ounces), or 3 ounces large to extra-large shrimp

Kosher or sea salt

1 tablespoon peanut, vegetable, or canola oil

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the soup base, then whisk in enough water or stock to reach your desired consistency. Cook for a few minutes to heat the soup through, then decrease the heat to lovw, cover, and keep it hot while you make your topping.

2. Remove the stem from the serrano and scrape out the ribs and seeds, reserving the seeds. Finely chop half the serrano, then transfer it to a small bowl. Add the avocado, tomatillo, shallot, cilantr, lime zest and juice, and agave nectar; stir to combine. Taste, and if you want the salsa spicier, add some of the serrano seeds and/or the other half of the serrano, finely chopped. 

3. Remove the large side muscle from the scallops. Then, unless they're dry-packed scallops, rinse them and thoroughly pat dry. Season the scallops with salt on each side.

4. Pour the oil into a medium skillet over medium-high heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the scallops or shrimp, making sure they aren't touching each other. Sear until they have a 1/4-inch-deep golden crust, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn them over and sear on the other side for another minute or so. Scallops should still be slightly springy to the touch,and you should be able to tell on the sides that the middle is still slightly translucent. Transfer them to a plate.

5. Ladle the soup into a wide, shallow bowl, top the salsa and then the scallops, and eat.

Spicy Black Bean Soup Base
from Joe Yonan's Serve Yourself
makes 4 to 5 cups

2 dried ancho, guajillo, or New Mexico chiles, or more to taste
1/2 pound dried black beans (1 heaping cup)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 shallot loves or 1/2 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, plus more as needed

1. Tear, break, or use scissors to cut the anchos into small strips or pieces. Combine them with the bean in a large bowl and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Let soak for at least 6 hours or overnight.

2. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery shallots, garlic, cinnamon, and allspice. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook the vegetables slowly until they start to become tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the beans, chiles, their soaking liquid, and enough water to cover the beans by 1 inch. Increase the heat to high to bring the contents to a boil. Then decrease the heat to low so that the liquid is at a bare simmer.

4. Cover and gently cook until the beans are very tender, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the beans. Add the salt, cook for a few more minutes, then let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup, then taste and adjust the salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can puree it in a blender or food processor. If you are using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the soup.

6. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate up to 1 week, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags, pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Paneer and Pea Curry With Sweet Potato Hash

For a couple of weeks, I think I ate sweet potatoes every single day. I blame Joe Yonan and his many delicious variations on sweet potato soup for starting this obsession, but the success of Thai sweet potato curry certainly didn't slow it down. In a fine conclusion to that craze, this recipe combines sweet potatoes, curry, and Joe Yonan's recipe expertise, every bite of this as delightful as its culinary predecessors.

Before this recipe, I'd always served my curries with the traditional rice or naan, or even quinoa, but it had never crossed my mind to serve it over sweet potato hash. The hash, with its lovely crispy bits, is the perfect contrast to the tender vegetables and cheese, the sweet potato eagerly soaking up the the rich coconut milk and brilliant spices of the garam masala. I love recipes like this because they perfectly toe the line between fresh and hearty, hitting your taste buds with equal parts soul and stomach satisfying starch, light and bright vegetables, and savory cheese. (As a born and bred Wisconsinite, you're not likely to find me swapping out cheese in a recipe, but if you're vegan or can't find any paneer, extra-firm tofu will make a suitable substitute.) Until Mother Nature decides she's ready to let go of winter and full embrace spring, these cozy bowls are just the ticket to a happy, healthy lady with enough energy to shovel the driveway.

Paneer and Pea Curry With Sweet Potato Hash
adapted from The Washington Post
serves 4

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
5 cloves garlic, chopped
1 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and grated
Sea salt
8 ounces paneer (Indian fresh cheese) or drained extra-firm tofu, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3-inch piece ginger root, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons garam masala (or curry powder)
2 cups fresh or frozen/defrosted peas (about 9 ounces)
1 cup no-salt-added canned crushed or diced tomatoes, with their juices
1/4 cup low-fat coconut milk or cream
Yogurt, sour cream, or creme fraiche, for serving (optional)
Hot sauce, for serving (optional)

1. Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a large skillet over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, add half of the onion and half of the garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until tender. Increase the heat to medium-high and stir in the sweet potatoes. Sprinkle with salt to taste. Cook the sweet potatoes, stirring and scraping them from the pan occasionally, until they are browned in spots and tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat.

2. Sprinkle the paneer pieces with salt. Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a separate large skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the paneer and cook for a few minutes, until deeply browned on one side, then turn the cubes over to brown deeply on the second side.

3. Reduce the heat to medium. Pour in the remaining tablespoon of oil, then stir in the ginger, garam masala and remaining half of the garlic and onions. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are tender and the garam masala has bubbled and bloomed. Stir in the peas, the tomatoes and their juices and the coconut milk. Once the mixture starts bubbling around the edges, taste, and add salt as needed. Cook until the peas are tender and the flavors have melded, about 5 minutes.

4. Divide the sweet potato hash among individual plates. Spoon the paneer-pea curry on top and garnish with yogurt and hot sauce. Serve hot.

Black Bean Tortilla Soup with Shrimp and Corn

As promised, as soon as I was finished with my batch of sweet potato soup base, I immediately moved on to the black bean variety. The culinary memories of chorizo, chickpeas, and kale, orange and smoky pecans, and spinach, coconut, and almonds, reside fondly in my memory, but I was excited to move on to this new recipe. Although it was a transition out of my recent sweet potato obsession, this was just the kick my tastebuds had been craving.

Sweet potato soup was all silky comfort, but this bowl of creaminess comes with plenty of heat. Ancho chiles infuse the base with sweetness and spiciness, but neither the flavor or the heat of the chiles overpowers the soup. The base is delicious on its own, with a simple swirl of creme fraiche, or loaded up with all the fixings of good chili, but this elaborate concoction is even more suburb. The light shrimp, tomatoes, and corn are the perfect fresh addition to the hearty black beans, sour cream adds a subtle, luxurious touch with the crispy tortilla strips providing the perfect textural contrast. Toeing the line between hearty and light, this complete meal in a bowl is a beautiful transition between winter and spring.

Black Bean Tortilla Soup with Shrimp and Corn
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 to 1 1/2 cups Spicy Black Bean Soup Base (see below)
Up to 1/2 cup corn broth, water, or chicken, shrimp, or vegetable stock
Kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 jalapeno or serrano chile
1 or 2 corn tortillas, preferably homemade
Kernels from one ear fresh corn (about 3/4 cup), or 1/2 cup frozen corn
2 to 3 ounces very small shrimp or medium to large shrimp, cut into small pieces
8 small cherry tomatoes, quartered, or 2 plum tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch pieces or 1/2 cup diced tomatoes
1/2 lime
2 tablespoons sour cream, creme fraiche, or yogurt
1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the soup base. Whisk in enough broth, stock, or water to reach desired consistency. Cook for a few minutes to heat the soup through. Taste and add more salt, if desired. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot while you make the topping.

2. Pour half of the oil into a medium skillet over medium heat. Remove the stem from the from the jalapeno and scrap out the ribs and seeds, reserving the seeds. Finely chop the chile and add it to the skillet. Cut the tortilla in half and cut into slices. Add to the skillet and saute until the tortillas are crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer tortillas and chile to a serving bowl.

3. Add the remaining oil to the pan, then add the corn, shrimp, and tomatoes to the skillet. Season with salt and saute just until the shrimp are opaque and the corn turns bright yellow 1 to 4 minutes, depending o the size of the shrimp.

4. Transfer the corn mixture to the serving bowl and pour in the black bean soup base. Squeeze the lime half over the top, spoon on sour cream, sprinkle with crisped tortillas, chile, and cilantro, and eat.

Spicy Black Bean Soup Base
from Joe Yonan's Serve Yourself
makes 4 to 5 cups

2 dried ancho, guajillo, or New Mexico chiles, or more to taste
1/2 pound dried black beans (1 heaping cup)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 shallot loves or 1/2 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, plus more as needed

1. Tear, break, or use scissors to cut the anchos into small strips or pieces. Combine them with the bean in a large bowl and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Let soak for at least 6 hours or overnight.

2. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery shallots, garlic, cinnamon, and allspice. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook the vegetables slowly until they start to become tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the beans, chiles, their soaking liquid, and enough water to cover the beans by 1 inch. Increase the heat to high to bring the contents to a boil. Then decrease the heat to low so that the liquid is at a bare simmer.

4. Cover and gently cook until the beans are very tender, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the beans. Add the salt, cook for a few more minutes, then let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup, then taste and adjust the salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can puree it in a blender or food processor. If you are using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the soup.

6. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate up to 1 week, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags, pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Thai-Flavored Green Curry with Sweet Potatoes and Green Beans

When it comes to shortcut ingredients, curry is king. Curry powders and pastes are frugal and efficient ways to create a vibrantly flavored dish with a minimal list of ingredients and time to spare. I've been on an epic sweet potato kick lately, so it wasn't much of a leap to merge the two ideas together in this quick weeknight meal. It's virtually guaranteed that there's curry powder in my cabinet, and even though there's pretty good odds of curry paste (red or green) hanging out my fridge, I'll confess that I don't reach for it quite as often. That tiny jar gets easily lost among the ample library of condiments, but it's always a pleasant surprise to rediscover it.

For me, Indian curries are generally cozy, hearty, comforting meals and Thai curries are light and lively bites that really perk up the palate. During the depths of winter, I need both of these kind of meals. When I want to curl up under a cozy blanket and watch a movie, give me warm and inviting Indian curry. When it's time to refuel and wake up after a long day, I'll happily devour a plate of the Thai variety, which takes less than 30 minutes to make it to the dinner table. Bright lemongrass, rich coconut milk, and spicy ginger and chilies are the perfect antidote to icy winter weather, with extras freezing well for a healthy meal at the ready any time. This vegetarian dish is wonderful simply served over brown rice with a drizzle of hot sauce, but is also a nice complement for salmon, chicken, or pork for carnivores or heartier appetites.

Thai-Flavored Green Curry with Sweet Potatoes and Green Beans

adapted from Bon Appetit

serves 4

1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil
1 medium onion, quartered, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons green Thai curry paste
1 cup canned unsweetened coconut milk
1 large sweet potato, scrubbed, quartered, cut into 1/2” chunks
3 cups trimmed green beans, cut in 2” pieces or one 10-ounce bag frozen green beans
Kosher salt
Thai basil or cilantro, for serving (optional)

Sriracha or other hot sauce, for serving (optional)
Brown rice or naan, for serving (optional)

1. Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion; cook, stirring often, until onion begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Add curry paste; stir for 1 minute. Whisk in coconut milk and 1 cup water. Add sweet potato and cook, uncovered, until sauce thickens to a creamy consistency, about 10 minutes. Stir in green beans, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Season with salt. Turn off heat and garnish with cilantro and/or hot sauce, if using, into the curry. Serve over rice.

Curried Lentil Soup

I'm lazy when it comes to beans, even though they're a staple of my diet. Yes, I could buy an entire pound of dried beans for just a couple dollars, but that requires planning to soak them overnight and setting aside few hours to cook, portion, and freeze a big batch when I'm usually just looking to throw a handful on a salad or in a wrap. I end up biting the bullet and spending the same for a can that I could for an entire pound, all the while thinking it is the less economical and healthy option. But with lentils there's no planning ahead required, as these dried legumes transform from crunchy discs to tender flavor sponges in less than half an hour, the perfect choice for a quick and hearty vegetarian dinner.

Lentils may get a bit of bad wrap for being bland hippie food, but they are an eager canvas for all manner of different flavors like the wonderful sweet and savory spice blend of curry powder. Chickpea puree makes the soup thick and rich with the yogurt adding the perfect creamy, acidic accent. A sprinkling of scallions is just the fresh touch  this soup needs, and, at least for me, it's not quite finished without a little bit of het (I especially like chipotle Tabasco sauce here). Add a salad and piece of naan or pita for a complete dinner or serve over brown rice or quinoa for an even heartier bowl of comfort.

Curried Lentil Soup

adapted from Bon Appetit

serves 4

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, chopped, divided
2 tablespoons (or more) curry powder
1 cup French green lentils
4 1/4 cups (or more) water, divided
1 15- to 16-ounce can chickpeas (garbanzo beans), drained, rinsed
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter
2 green onions, thinly sliced, for serving (optional)
Yogurt, sour cream, or creme fraiche, for serving (optional)

1 lemon, cut into 6 wedges, for serving (optional)

1. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onion and carrot; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook until onion is translucent, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes. Add half of chopped garlic; stir until vegetables are soft but not brown, about 4 minutes longer. Add 2 tablespoons curry powder; stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add lentils and 4 cups water. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Increase heat and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium; simmer until lentils are tender, about 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, puree chickpeas, lemon juice, 1/4 cup water, remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and remaining garlic in processor.

3. Add chickpea puree and butter to lentil soup. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and additional curry powder, if desired. Add water by 1/4 cupfuls to thin to desired consistency. DO AHEAD: soup can be made up to 1 day ahead. Cool, cover, and refrigerate. Rewarm before continuing.

4. Divide soup among bowls. Garnish with thinly sliced green onions and yogurt and a squeeze of fresh lemon, if desired.

Sweet Potato, Spinach, and Coconut Soup with Toasted Coconut and Almonds

Joe Yonan showed me how great sweet potato soup can be with greens and toasted nuts. And now I'm here to tell you it's great with both. I know I can't stop raving about it, but this will be the last you hear from me on this sweet potato soup, since I've enjoyed the basic version, two of Yonan's riffs, and now my own custom creation.

One of the greatest lessons I've relearned from this series of soups is to go beyond infusing the base with flavor and top it with something special as well. The rich and silky foundation, swirled with tender greens, would be delicious on its own, but it's the toasty crunch on top that makes the soup really extraordinary. My culinary obsessions ebb and flow, and because I'm currently occupied with incorporating all manner of coconut products into as many meals as possible, I'm quite pleased with the layered coconut flavor and texture this recipe achieves.

I've enthusiastically enjoyed each of the sweet potato soup variations, but I can't wait to move on Yonan's other concentrated soup base recipe - spicy black bean. After all those sweet and silky bites, I think I'm ready for a little heat.

Sweet Potato, Spinach, and Coconut Soup with Toasted Coconut and Almonds
makes 1 serving

1 cup Sweet Potato Soup Base, defrosted if frozen (see recipe below)
1/4 cup coconut milk (or coconut cream, for an even richer soup)
1/4 cup water or vegetable stock, or additional coconut milk, plus more as needed

2 ounces baby spinach or kale
Kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoons sliced almonds

1 tablespoon unsweetened coconut flakes

1. Pour the soup base into a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the orange juice and water, adding more water if you want a thinner consistency. Cook until the soup is bubbling hot, 3 to 4 minutes. Add spinach and cook until it is wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Taste and add salt if needed. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot.

2. Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the almonds and coconut and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are fragrant and lightly browned, about 4 to 5 minutes.

3. Pour the soup into a serving bowl, top with the almonds and coconut, and serve warm.

Sweet Potato Soup Base
from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
makes about 4 cups

2 (10- to 12-ounce) sweet potatoes
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 celery stalk, thinly sliced
1 small leek, white and pale greens, thinly sliced
2 sprigs thyme
Kosher or sea salt
Pinch of curry powder
2 cups light chicken or vegetable stock, warmed

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.

2. Use a fork or sharp knife to prick the sweet potatoes in several places. Place on a piece of aluminum foil
and bake until the sweet potatoes are tender and can be easily squeezed, 60 to 75 minutes.
(Alternatively, to speed up the process, microwave the pricked sweet potatoes on High for 1 minute,
then carefully transfer to the oven on a piece of foil. Bake until the potatoes are tender, 30 to 45
minutes.)

3. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the carrots,
celery, leek, thyme, and a pinch of salt. Stir to combine well, then decrease the heat to low, cover the
pot, and allow the vegetables to sweat in their own juices until very soft, 10 to 15 minutes. (Take care
not to allow the vegetables to burn.)

4. Scrape into the saucepan the soft flesh from the roasted sweet potatoes, add the curry powder, and stir
to combine, mashing the sweet potato flesh with a spoon. The mixture will be chunky. Stir in the stock
and combine well. Bring the mixture to a boil, then decrease the heat so the mixture gently simmers, and
cook, covered but with the lid slightly ajar, for about 15 minutes to let the flavors meld. Allow the mixture
to cool slightly, then remove and discard the thyme.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup base, which will be very thick. (Alternatively, you
can puree it in a blender or food processor. If using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the
lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the
soup.) Taste and add salt if needed.

6. Let the soup base cool to room temperature. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate
for up to 2 weeks, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags,
pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Cheesy Greens and Rice Gratin

Having grown up in the upper Midwest, I've been around more than my fair share of casseroles. From time to time that dense and hearty fare is exactly what I'm craving, but for your average meal I'm not looking to eat something that will require a nap immediately after. But who can argue with the glorious collaboration of cheese, rice, and veggies? That's where my grown-up tastes turn to the infinitely customizable, eternally delicious, gratin.

Every kitchen should have at least one variety of grain, spice mix, sauce, nuts or seeds, greens, and cheese, so there's sure to be some iteration of this recipe in easy reach. Have leftover pasta sauce or salsa instead of tomatoes? Absolutely! Cooked quinoa or barley instead of rice? Go for it! Old Bay instead of Za'atar? Sharp cheddar or Parmesan instead of Gruyere? There's no shortage of tasty combinations so go nuts with whatever you have in the fridge and cabinets and find your favorite. My first tasting of this gratin brought together brown rice, salsa, kale, pepitas, and cheddar cheese for a Mexican/Southwestern slant on the recipe. Marinara, pine nuts, and Parmesan give this a nice Italian twist, and orzo and feta cheese could take it in a Greek direction, particularly if you tuck some olives in there as well.

Cheesy Greens and Rice Gratin
adapted from Eat Your Vegetables by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon Za'atar (or other favorite spice blend)
1/4 cup canned crushed tomatoes in their liquid, or 2 chopped plum tomatoes, or 1/4 to 1/2 cup prepared tomato sauce or salsa
3/4 cup cooked brown rice
2 tablespoons toasted pistachios or pine nuts
3/4 cup cooked hearty greens (spinach, kale, Swiss chard, etc.) or 2 cups chopped fresh leaves
1/4 cup shredded Taleggio or Gruyere, or other good melting cheese

1. Preheat the oven broiler, and adjust the rack to be several inches from the flame.

2. Pour the olive oil into a small cast-iron or other oven/broiler-proof skillet over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the garlic and cook until it starts to become tender. Sprinkle in the za'atar and cook for just a few seconds, letting the spices bubble and bloom. If using fresh greens, add them now. Stir in tomatoes or sauce and rice, taste, and as salt and pepper as needed. Cook for a few minutes to let the flavors combine, then turn off the heat. Stir in the nuts or seeds.

3. Pack the rice mixture down even with a spatula and top with cooked greens (if not using fresh), leaving a ring of rice exposed. Sprinkle with the cheese. Slide the skillet under the broiler and cook until the chees is melted, bubbly, and slightly browned, 3 or 4 minutes, then remove. Let cool slightly, but eat it hot.