Roasted Eggplant and Lentil Soup

In addition to a zucchini of epic portions, my garden had several eggplants still waiting for a culinary destiny when I did my final clean-up. And as with my zucchini, I chose soup to put the fruits of my hard labor to good use. I've had lentils on the brain since making Pan-Seared Salmon with Braised Lentils and Swiss Chard, and I was more than happy to find I wasn't the only one who thought their earthiness would make a winning combination with eggplant. (Chickpeas also pair splendidly).

My biggest objection to the original recipe was that it failed to use the delicious and nutritious skin of the eggplant. The skin blends down to tiny, beautiful purple flecks, adding a nice visual element to the mostly monochromatic soup. Milk or half-and-half add richness and creaminess to the soup, but vegans could substitute a nondairy milk (soy, almond, cashew, coconut, etc.) or additional water or broth. The tangy touch of yogurt or sour cream is lovely finishing touch, but vegans could leave that out as well, perhaps adding an extra splash of lemon juice to bump up the sour accent.

It may feature a summer vegetable, but this chunky, filling soup is perfect for a cozy fall dinner. Delicious right out of pot, leftover the next day for lunch, or even plucked from the freezer, this soup is a quick and easy way to fill your belly when the early sunset has your evening energy fading fast.

Roasted Eggplant and Lentil Soup
adapted from Food and Wine
serves 4

One 1 1/4-pound eggplant, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup lentils
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock or low-sodium broth or water
1 cup milk or half-and-half
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Plain yogurt or sour cream, for serving (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Toss eggplant pieces with  olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake until the eggplant is very tender, turning occasionally, about 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, cover the lentils with 2 inches of water. Simmer over low heat until the lentils are tender, about 20 minutes. Drain the lentils in a colander.

3. Add eggplant to blender. Add 1 cup of the stock and puree until smooth; transfer to a clean saucepan. Add the lentils and the remaining 1 cup of stock to the blender and puree until smooth. Add the lentil puree to the eggplant puree in the saucepan.

4. Stir the milk and lemon juice into the soup and bring to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper; keep the soup hot over low heat, stirring occasionally. Divide into four bowls and stir in yogurt or sour cream, if desired.

Puréed Zucchini Soup With Curry

It is way too late in the year to have a zucchini recipe to share, but alas, the two-pound monster zucchini I found while cleaning up my gardens for the year thought otherwise. A two-pound zucchini is a formidable culinary undertaking, and the quickest way to put it all to good use was a hearty pot of soup. It starts with a classic base and subtle additions of curry and rice give it a special touch. Curry is added with a light hand so the soup does not have an assertive Indian flavor, but instead a subtle hint of warming spices in the background of each bite. Zucchini makes a surprisingly smooth soup on its own, but the addition of rice gives it additional body and silkiness.

This soup was originally intended to be a spring dish, but I don't think it would be a stretch to use this same recipe with a hearty winter squash as well. With my first CSA pick up just over a week away, I may be back to try out that hypothesis very soon.

Puréed Zucchini Soup With Curry
adapted from the New York Times
makes 4 to 6 servings

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 small white or yellow onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 pounds zucchini, diced (about 7 cups diced)
2 teaspoons curry powder
6 cups chicken stock, vegetable stock or water
1/4 cup brown basmati rice
Salt to taste
Freshly ground pepper (I like a lot of it in this soup)
Pinch of cayenne
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large, heavy soup pot and add the onion. Cook, stirring, until it is tender, about 5 minutes. Add a generous pinch of salt, the garlic and the zucchini and stir for about a minute, until the garlic smells fragrant. Add the curry powder, stir together, and add the stock or water, the rice and salt to taste. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer 30 minutes. Taste and adjust salt.

2. Purée the soup with an immersion blender or a food mill or in batches in a blender, taking care to remove the lid or take out the center insert and to cover with a towel to avoid hot splashes. Return to the pot, heat through, add pepper and cayenne to taste and stir in the lemon juice.

Smoky Spiced Tempeh and Quinoa Salad

Good food is good food, no matter the amount of animal protein it contains. Although I'm most certainly not a vegan or vegetarian, most of my meals fall under one of those categories. I'm not a fan of faux meat products, but appreciate soy products for exactly what they are and am game when tingredients like tempeh appear in a recipe. Partnering with super food quinoa, this probably could only sound more like a vegan hippie recipe if nutritional yeast was in the name, but I still couldn't get enough of it.

Tempeh and quinoa are nutritious, though fairly neutral ingredients, and this expertly curated spice blend is why the salad is so delicious. I doubt I would be able to re-create spice list just from taste, but I do know that each bite is packed with smoky, spicy, and savory notes that keep me shoveling this versatile salad into my face. Spread on bread or into a tortilla or pita it makes for a fine sandwich, a delightful salad atop greens, and a delicious spread for crackers, as the source recipe suggests. My first inclination after making it, however, was none of these options. While portioning into lunch-size servings, I realized that texture makes it perfectly suited for a "veggie" burger, so I formed a patty and threw it into a hot pan straight away. It would have been delicious with just a smear of Dijon and some greens, but I couldn't resist melting some raw cheddar over the top (to the horror of vegans everywhere).

What this salad lacks in beauty, it makes up for in flavor, and it is a great opportunity to turn people around on a couple of ingredients that often give pause. But even if you're not ready to take the plunge with tempeh and quinoa, you've still got the perfect new spice mix to try out in a batch of veggie burgers or tuna salad.

Smoky Spiced Tempeh and Quinoa Salad
adapted from The Kitchn
makes about 2 cups

8 ounces tempeh
1 cup cooked and cooled quinoa
2 tablespoons regular or vegan mayonnaise
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper (optional)
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
Small dash of ground cloves
Small dash of ground cinnamon

1. Cut the tempeh into 1-inch chunks (no need to be precise). Fill a saucepan with an inch or two of water and place a steamer basket inside. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Place the tempeh in the basket, cover, and reduce heat to medium. Steam for 15 minutes, remove tempeh, and let cool.

2. Place the tempeh in a food processor and pulse until crumbly. Add the remaining ingredients and pulse until the mixture comes together. Taste and adjust seasonings, if desired. (Alternatively, you can crumble the tempeh and mix in the other ingredients by hand.)

3. Serve with a green salad, as a taco filling, or as a spread for sandwiches or crackers.

4. Salad may be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce

Earlier this week I shared a recipe for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce, so it now it's time to share one that is a bit farther down the cooked scale. In the previous sauce the flavor profile featured the tartness, but in this sauce acidic notes are muted in favor of a deeper, earthier flavor. It doesn't go as far as Roasted Tomatillo Salsa, which is all about the roasted and smoky flavors, but nicely bridges those two extremes. Again we see chiles, cilantro, and onion making an appearance, garlic and stock fortifying the flavor even further. With that usual cast of characters, this is most certainly a pleasing preparation for any tomatillo lover, but the gentler acidic character will appeal to larger audience of non-tomatillo devotees.

Any of the suggestions I made for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce are just as appropriate for this variation, though I heartily endorse its use in the shredded pork chilaquiles pictured above. As I steadily make my way through my freezer cache in order to make room for my impending winter CSA, I am both delighting in the revisiting these summer flavors and sad to see them go. But when you love food and cooking as much as I do, each day has the potential for culinary adventure. Who knows? This concentrated summer flavor just may end up meeting up with hearty winter squash.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce
makes about 2 1/2 to 3 cups
adapted from Authentic Mexican by Rick Bayless

1 pound (11 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and washed OR two 13-ounce cans tomatillos, drained
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 3 chiles serranos or 2 chiles jalapenos), stemmed
5 or 6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1 large garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon lard or vegetable or canola oil
2 cups any low-sodium poultry, meat, or vegetable broth or stock (depending on how the sauce is to be used)
Salt, about 1/2 teaspoon (depending on the saltiness of the broth)

1. The tomatillos. Boil the fresh tomatillos and chiles in salt water to cover until tender, 10 to 15 minutes; drain. Simply drain the canned tomatillos.

2. The puree. Place the tomatillos and chiles (raw ones if using canned tomatillos) in a blender or food processor, along with the coriander, onion, and garlic; if using a blender, stir well. Process until smooth, but still retaining a little texture.

3. The sauce. Heat the lard or oil in a medium-large skillet set over medium-high. When hot enough to make a drop of the puree sizzle sharply, pour it in all at once and stir constantly for 4 or 5 minutes, until darker and thicker. Add the broth, let return to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and simmer until thick enough to coat a spoon, about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce

I finally cleaned out my gardens last week. My final harvest yielded a good amount of eggplant, some jalapenos, poblanos, and mini sweet bell peppers, a couple tomatoes, a surprise 2+ pound zucchini the size of my forearm, and even a few last tomatillos from plants that looked like they were in their death throes, yet were flowering at the same time. Apparently it's not just my mutant plants hanging on for dear life, as I saw a couple vendors still selling a few tomatillos, but I thought I should share a few last tomatillo recipes before all vestiges of this favorite fruit disappear.

If you know me or Mexican cooking, it should be no surprise that I went straight to Rick Bayless for recipes. I can't say enough about how much I love his cookbooks and recipes, so I expect nothing less than  perfection when I try his recipes. And you know what? I'm never disappointed. I've made seemingly countless tomatillo sauces at this point, mostly from his recipes, all with their own unique character. As the name would suggest, this sauce is fresh and vibrant, celebrating all the tart and citrusy notes of the tomatillo. Hot chiles, cilantro, and onion are familiar companions, this classic combination just as delicious with barely cooked tomatillos as deeply roasted ones.

There's no end to the ways this sauce can be used. A few suggestions include a dip for chips, topping for tacos, tostados, and eggs, or sauce for smothered burrito pictured above, though that is certain not an exhaustive list. If you like tomatillos, you're almost guaranteed to love this sauce, relishing in it's spicy, tart flavor brightens up any dish it is added to.

Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce

from Authentic Mexican 20th Anniversary Ed: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico by Rick Bayless

makes about 1 ½ cups

8 ounces (5 or 6 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and washed
OR one 13-ounce can tomatillos, drained
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 2 chiles serranos or 1 chile jalapeno), stemmed
5 or 6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
½ small onion, chopped
Salt, about ½ teaspoon

1. The tomatillos: Boil fresh tomatillos in salted water to cover until barely tender, 8 to 10 minutes; drain. Canned tomatillos only need to be drained.

2. The puree: Place the tomatillos in a blender or food processor. If you want a milder sauce, seed the chile(s), then chop into small bits and add to the tomatillos along with the coriander and chopped onion; if using a blender, stir well. Blend or process to a coarse puree.

3. Finishing the sauce: Scrape into a sauce dish, thin to medium-thick consistency with about ¼ cup water, then season with salt. Let stand for about ½ hour before serving, for the flavors to blend.

Traditional Variations

Chunky Tomatillo Sauce: Prepare the sauce as described, finely chopping the chile, onion and coriander, then adding them to the blended tomatillos. If the chopped onion is rinsed, the sauce will sour less quickly.

All-Raw Tomatillo Relish: Prepare the sauce with chopped raw tomatillos, adding ¼ cup water before blending. Taste for salt and stir in additional water, if needed.

Baltimore Pit Beef

I can't resist an opportunity for rituals, especially around food, and this year I've decided that my Packer snacks will be themed around the city/region of the opposing team. To play the 49ers, I made Mission-style burritos, chili for the Redskins, Cincinnati Chili for the Bengals, Coney Dogs for the Lions, and most recently, pit beef for the Ravens. Pit beef is a recipe for a crowd, but luckily I was hosting a house full of hungry men when I cooked up this recipe. Grilled meat is a pretty good bet to satisfy a crowd even in its simplest form, but this beefy goodness is made even more sublime with a simple, well-balanced spice rub and pungent horseradish-based tiger sauce. I'm an avid fan of strong flavors like horseradish, but even my father, with his much more mild-mannered taste buds, said that the tanginess of the tiger sauce hit just the right balance with the rich, smoky, salty beef. Raw onion, another polarizing ingredient, adds a nice sharp note that accents the rest of the flavors, though both the onion and sauce it can be easily omitted for those who find it to be a bit too much.

The temperatures are still mild enough here to permit firing up the grill for this recipe, which will definitely give you the best flavor. If you'd rather keep warm and cozy inside, the beef can be roasted in the oven and finished with a sear in a cast iron pan to create a delightful, crusty exterior. A crowd-pleasing recipe for any gathering of carnivores from coast to coast, I hope you won't wait until your team plays the Ravens to cook up this delicious recipe.

Baltimore Pit Beef
adapted from Steven Raichlan, via the New York Times
makes 8 sandwiches

For the rub:
2 tablespoons seasoned salt
1 tablespoon sweet or smoked paprika
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 3-pound piece top round
8 kaiser (or other) rolls
Horseradish sauce (see below)
1 sweet white onion, sliced thin
2 ripe tomatoes, sliced thin (optional)
Iceburg lettuce (optional).

1. Combine ingredients for the rub in a bowl, and mix. Sprinkle 3 to 4 tablespoons all over the beef, patting it in. Place in a baking dish, and cover with plastic wrap. You can cover the beef with the rub for a few hours, but for maximum flavor, leave it for 3 days in the refrigerator, turning once a day.

2. Prepare a hot grill. Grill beef 30 to 40 minutes, or until outside is crusty and dark brown and internal temperature is about 120 degrees (for rare). Turn beef often. Transfer to a cutting board; let it rest 5 minutes.

3. Slice beef thinly across grain. Pile beef high on a roll or bread slathered with horseradish sauce. Garnish with onions, tomatoes and sliced lettuce. Serve.

Yield: 8 sandwiches.

Horseradish Sauce

yields 1.5 cups
1 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup prepared white horseradish, or to taste
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
Salt and black pepper to taste.

Combine ingredients in a bowl, and whisk to mix. Adjust seasonings to taste.

Indian-Spiced Eggplant & Cauliflower Stew

The more I experiment with my eggplant crop, the more I'm coming to appreciate what a versatile canvas it can be. Baba ganoush and eggplant Parmesan are two of the most iconic dishes for this gorgeous member of the nightshade family (ratatouille and moussaka being others), but I have to say I'm especially pleased with how it fares with the vibrant spices of Indian cuisine.

Curry powder and garam masala form the flavor backbone of this dish and their varieties myriad and varied, so choose ones that you really love for this recipe. Cauliflower and potato curry was the first one I ever prepared (and loved!), earning cauliflower an eternal welcome in any curry I make; it takes a turn as an expert companion to eggplant here. Onions, tomatoes, and chickpeas round out a typical cast of characters, all of those ingredients taking up classic Indian spices with great aplomb. The creamy swirl of yogurt or sour cream makes the tapestry of flavors especially vibrant, so barring veganism or lactose intolerance, I strongly encourage that finishing touch.

Though Indian food comes from a land that generally dare not dream of freezing temperatures, those flavors are just as delightful on chilly Wisconsin fall day as a searing one in Delhi. Flavorful bites call up images of warm and far away lands, while still linked to milder climes by familiar comforting spices of fall like cinnamon and cardamom.

Indian-Spiced Eggplant and Cauliflower Stew
adapted from Eating Well
serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons curry powder
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 large onion, sliced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1-pound eggplant, cut into 1-inch chunks
8 ounces small cauliflower florets
1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes
1 15-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup plain yogurt or sour cream, (optional)

Pita, rice, or naan, for serving (option)

1. Heat a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add curry powder, garam masala and mustard seeds and toast, stirring, until the spices begin to darken, about 1 minute. Transfer to a small bowl.

2. Add oil, onion, garlic, ginger and salt to the pot and cook, stirring, until softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in eggplant, cauliflower, tomatoes, chickpeas, water and the reserved spices. Bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Top each serving with a dollop of yogurt or sour cream, if desired, and serve with pita, rice, or naan, if desired.