Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce

Earlier this week I shared a recipe for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce, so it now it's time to share one that is a bit farther down the cooked scale. In the previous sauce the flavor profile featured the tartness, but in this sauce acidic notes are muted in favor of a deeper, earthier flavor. It doesn't go as far as Roasted Tomatillo Salsa, which is all about the roasted and smoky flavors, but nicely bridges those two extremes. Again we see chiles, cilantro, and onion making an appearance, garlic and stock fortifying the flavor even further. With that usual cast of characters, this is most certainly a pleasing preparation for any tomatillo lover, but the gentler acidic character will appeal to larger audience of non-tomatillo devotees.

Any of the suggestions I made for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce are just as appropriate for this variation, though I heartily endorse its use in the shredded pork chilaquiles pictured above. As I steadily make my way through my freezer cache in order to make room for my impending winter CSA, I am both delighting in the revisiting these summer flavors and sad to see them go. But when you love food and cooking as much as I do, each day has the potential for culinary adventure. Who knows? This concentrated summer flavor just may end up meeting up with hearty winter squash.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce
makes about 2 1/2 to 3 cups
adapted from Authentic Mexican by Rick Bayless

1 pound (11 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and washed OR two 13-ounce cans tomatillos, drained
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 3 chiles serranos or 2 chiles jalapenos), stemmed
5 or 6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1 large garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon lard or vegetable or canola oil
2 cups any low-sodium poultry, meat, or vegetable broth or stock (depending on how the sauce is to be used)
Salt, about 1/2 teaspoon (depending on the saltiness of the broth)

1. The tomatillos. Boil the fresh tomatillos and chiles in salt water to cover until tender, 10 to 15 minutes; drain. Simply drain the canned tomatillos.

2. The puree. Place the tomatillos and chiles (raw ones if using canned tomatillos) in a blender or food processor, along with the coriander, onion, and garlic; if using a blender, stir well. Process until smooth, but still retaining a little texture.

3. The sauce. Heat the lard or oil in a medium-large skillet set over medium-high. When hot enough to make a drop of the puree sizzle sharply, pour it in all at once and stir constantly for 4 or 5 minutes, until darker and thicker. Add the broth, let return to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and simmer until thick enough to coat a spoon, about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

Zucchini with Roasted Peppers, Corn, and Cream

I don't know anyone, myself included, who really loves zucchini. Like tofu, I find it has a nice texture when cooked properly, but it really just serves as a palate for other flavors. When it comes to such a empty vessel of an ingredient, I think it best to turn towards cuisines bursting with flavor, like Mexican. As I've said so many times, who better to look to for a recipe than Rick Bayless? I'm one of those super type-A people who loves to meal plan (based on what's at the farmers' market, of course), stumbling across this as I was perusing Rick Bayless cookbooks for all-too-plentiful zucchini inspiration. In this recipe, zucchini serves as the perfect backdrop for the melding of spicy and smoky roasted poblanos and the fresh sweet corn that I am lucky enough to pick up right alongside my zucchini at the farmers' market. Like so many of my favorite recipes, this is bursting with flavor without requiring Herculean effort. While I am certainly happy to regularly take on complex culinary projects, on weeknights I rely on easy dishes like this to reward myself for a long day at work while still getting dinner on table before dark. Though a flavorful and decadent side, I made this into a main dish by serving it with some grilled chicken breast and brown rice. Feel free to lighten it up by substituting half-and-half or whole milk for the cream, but you will have to cook it for a bit longer to thicken up the sauce, so cook the vegetables a touch less before adding the dairy, lest they turn into mush. If you're looking for a way to spice up plain Jane zucchini, give this recipe a try - you won't be disappointed by how Mexican flavors transform this ordinary vegetable into something really special.

Zucchini with Roasted Peppers, Corn, and Cream
from Authentic Mexican by Rick Bayless
yields about 2 cups, 4 servings

1 pound (4 small) zucchini, ends trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 scant teaspoon salt, plus a little more to season the sauce, if necessary
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
The kernels cut from 1 large ear fresh sweet corn (about 1 cup) or 1 cup frozen corn, defrosted
1 fresh chile poblano, roasted and peeled, seeded and sliced into thin strips
1/2 medium onion, thinly sliced
2/3 cup Thick Cream or whipping cream

1. "Sweating" the zucchini. In a colander, toss the zucchini with salt; let stand over a plate or in the sink for 1/2 hour. Rinse the zucchini, then dry on paper towels.

2. Cooking the vegetables. Heat the butter and oil over medium-high in a skillet large enough to hold the zucchini in a single layer. When quite hot, add the zucchini and fry for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until the zucchini is browned and just tender. Remove the zucchini, draining as much butter and oil as possible back into the pan. Reduce the heat to medium.

Add the corn kernels, chile and onion. Stir regularly until the onion is lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes.

3. Finishing the dish. A few minutes before serving, stir in the creamy and the zucchini and simmer for a few minutes, until the cream is reduced to a thick glaze. Add a little salt, if necessary, scoop into a warm dish and serve.

Seared Salmon with Spinach and Creamy Roasted Peppers

As soon as poblano peppers appear at the farmers' market, I get renew my obsession with Mexican food. I'm not talking nachos, tacos, quesadillas and the like, but the authentic Mexican food that abuelas have been cooking for generations. And if you're looking for real Mexican recipes, look no further than the pantheon of Mexican cuisine that is Rick Bayless. (For the record, Diana Kennedy is an impeccable resource as well). I've never made a Rick Bayless dish that I didn't think was not only good, but exceptional, and this recipe most certainly does not break that pattern. Although salmon isn't a protein that you'd typically think of in Mexican cuisine, the traditional flavors of Mexico are certainly at home with salmon. Beautifully smoky and spicy roasted poblano chiles are joined by fresh spinach in a bright, yet creamy, sauce that complements the rich and fatty salmon without overpowering it. Though you only use a small amount, the masa harina adds a hint of sweetness, freshness, and texture that is absolutely vital to making the sauce its best. I suggest roasted potatoes for scooping up all the extra sauce because you won't want to leave a bit on the plate. A less-than-typical way of enjoying both Mexican food and salmon, this recipe is a must-try for anyone looking to expand their Mexican food repertoire.


Seared Salmon with Spinach and Creamy Roasted Peppers
from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless
serves 4

2 fresh poblano chiles
10 ounces cleaned spinach (about 10 cups)
3 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
3 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
1 to 2 tablespoons masa harina (Mexican corn "flour" for making tortillas - look for it in well-stocked groceries)
1 1/2 cups milk, plus a little more if needed
Four 4- to 5-ounce (1 to 1 1/4 pounds total) skinless salmon fillets (snapper, halibut and catfish are also good here)
Salt and ground black pepper

1. Roast the poblanos over an open flame or 4 inches below a broiler, turning regularly until blistered and blackened all over, about 5 minutes for an open flame, 10 minutes for the broiler. Palce in a bowl, cover with a kitchen towel and let cool until handleable.

2. Place the spianch in a microwaveable bowl, cover it with plastic wrap, poke a few holes in the top and microwave on high (100%) until completely wilted, usually about 2 minutes. (If your spinach comes in a microwaveable bag, simply microwave in the bag). Uncover (or open the bag) and set aside.

3. Turn the oven on to its lowest setting. Heat the oil in a very large (12-inch) skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium. Add the garlic and cook, stirring regularly, until soft and lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, scoop the garlic into a blender. Set the skillet aside.

4. Rub the blackened skin off the chiles and pull out the stems and seed pods. Rinse the chiles to remove bits of skin and seeds. Roughly chop and add to the blender, along with the masa harina and milk. Blend until smooth.

5. Return the skillet to medium-high heat. Sprinkle both sides of the fish liberally with salt and pepper. Lay the fillets in the hot oil and cook until richly browned, about 2 to 3 minutes. Use a spatula to flip the fillets, and cook until the fish barely flakes when pressed firmly with a finger or the back of a spoon (you want it slightly underdone), usually a couple of minutes longer for dish that's about 1 inch thick. Using the spatula, transfer the fish to an ovenproof plate and set it in the oven.

6. With the skillet still over medium-high, pour the poblano mixture and whisk until it comes to a boil and thickens, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes to blend the flavors. If the sauce has thickened past the consistency of a cream soup, pour in a little more milk. Taste and season with salt, usually a generous 1/2 teaspoon. Add the spinach to the sauce and stir until it is warm and well coated with sauce.

7. Divide the creamy spinach among four plates. Top each portion with a piece of seared fish. (Or, if it seems more appealing to you, spoon the sauce over the fillets.) Serve without delay.

Salmon in Luxurious Green Sesame Pipian

Oh, Rick Bayless, can you do no wrong? In addition to being consistently delicious, my favorite thing about recipes from Rick Bayless is how they make me rethink what Mexican food is, perpetually discovering new and delicious flavor combinations as well as making uncovering new ways to use favorite ingredients. I'll confess I'm no master seafood chef, but this has to be the most delicious dish I've ever made with salmon, with the added bonus of being really easy and quick to prepare. The combination of the creamy tahini and spicy tomatillo salsa is unexpectedly delicious, perfectly contrasted by the bright and fresh flavor from the cilantro and peas. The flavor of the salmon is strong enough not to disappear in this vibrantly-flavored dish, staying irresistably moist and succulent while simmering in the sauce. Served over a bed of brown rice or other grain, this is a complete, sneakily nutritious meal that could as easily be served at a dinner party as on a busy weeknight. Any fan of Mexican food or fish would be greatly remiss if they didn't give this at least give it once chance to grace their dinner table; if you are one of that legion, go forth and try a new recipe under the wise (cookbook) tutelage of the inimitable Rick Bayless.

Salmon in Luxurious Green Sesame Pipian

from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless
serves 4

2 cups store-bought or homemade tomatillo salsa
1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
1 cup chicken broth
3 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste)
Salt
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 heaping cup peas, fresh or frozen
Four 4- to 5-ounce (1 to 1 1/4 pounds total) skinless fish fillets (such as salmon, halibut, walleye, snapper or striped bass)-buy about 1 1/2 pounds if using fish steaks
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, for garnish
About 1/4 cup (loosely packed) chopped cilantro, for garnish

1. In a blender or food processor, process the salsa to a smooth purée.

2. Heat oil in a very large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high. When it is quite hot, add salsa all at once. Stir as salsa reduces to consistency of tomato paste, about 5 minutes.

3. Stir in broth and tahini. Return to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and let simmer 10 minutes. Taste and season with salt, usually about 1/2 teaspoon, and a little sugar. (The sugar will help balance the natural tartness of the salsa). 

4. While sauce is simmering, pour the peas into a microwaveable bowl, sprinkle on a tablespoon of the water, cover with plastic wrap and poke a couple of holes in the top. Microwave on high (100%) until the peas are hot and tender, anywhere from 1 minute from frozen peas to 4 or 5 minutes for fresh peas; discard water.

5. When the sauce has simmered for 10 minutes, nestle the fish fillets in it, completely submerging them. Continue simmering gently until the fish flakes when pressed firmly, usually 5 to 6 minutes for 1/2-inch-thick fillets. (Check it by lifting up a fillet on a metal spatula and pressing with your finger or the back of a spoon.)

6. Transfer a fish fillet to each dinner plate. Spoon a portion of the sauce over top. Strew with the peas, sesame seeds and cilantro, and you're ready for dinner.

Mushroom-Potato Crema with Roasted Poblanos

Like many Americans, I grew up with a fondness for Americanized Mexican food, delighting in the tacos, burritos, enchiladas, and nachos that pass for Mexican food in many places in the United States. While those inauthentic dishes can be delicious, as I've aged my tastes have matured and I have developed a love of real Mexican food, inspired in great part by the litany of amazing Rick Bayless recipes. And just as with all the other recipes I tried, this one does not disappoint in the slightest. It is amazing creamy despite only a scant amount of sour cream with just the perfect amount of spice and smokiness from the roasted poblano, made deeply satisfying with earthy, savory mushrooms. To make this even more luxurious, try adding a bit bacon or chorizo and garnishing with a sprinkling of crisp tortilla chips (Rick Bayless' Frontera line is great) along with the cilantro. (I would also be remiss if I didn't mention that this soup is also an irresistable,  if inauthentic, vessel for dunking corn muffins.)

The authentic suite of flavors is not overly aggressive, making this an excellent away to lure towards the true flavors of Mexico and a great option for Meatless Monday (or any weeknight when you find yourself short on time). With a thick blanket of snow on the ground and bitter winds swirling outside, this soup is the perfect way to tuck yourself away from the harsh winter and dream of the warm sun and beautiful beaches of our neighbor to the south.

Mushroom-Potato Crema with Roasted Poblanos
from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless
makes a generous 6 cups, serving 4

4 medium (about 1 pound total) red-skin boiling or Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into roughly 1-inch pieces
3 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
6 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1 large fresh poblano chile
8 ounces mushrooms (I like shiitake or oyster mushrooms), sliced 1/4-inch thick (you'll have about 3 cups slices)
1 scant cup corn kernals (they can be frozen or ones you've cut off 1 to 2 large ears)
1 large sprig fresh epazote (you can substitute a big sprig of fresh thyme or leave the herb out all together)
1/4 cup plain yogurt, heavy cream, or sour cream
Salt
About 1/4 cup roughly chopped cilantro, for garnish

1. Scoop the potatoes and garlic into a medium (3-quart) saucepan, pour in half of the broth and set over high heat. When the liquid boils, reduce the heat to medium and simmer briskly until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.

2. While the potatoes are cooking, roast the poblano over an open flame or 4 inches below a broiler, turning regularly until blistered and blackened all over, about 5 minutes for an open flame, about 10 minutes before a broiler. Cover with a kitchen towel. Let cool until handleable.

3. Rub the blackened bits off the chile and pull out the stem and seed pod. Rinse the chile to remove bits of skin and seeds. Cut into 1/4-inch pieces.

4. When the potatoes are tender, use an immersion blender to puree the soup base (or blend in several batches in a food processor or a loosely covered blender draped with a kitchen towel and return to the pan). Add the remaining half of the broth, the mushrooms, poblano, corn, and epazote (or thyme, if using). Simmer for 10 minutes over medium heat.

5. Just before serving, scoop about 1/2 cup of the hot soup into a small bowl. Mix in the yogurt, cream, or sour cream. Stir the mixture back into the pot, then taste and season with salt, usually about 1 1/2 teaspoons. Ladle the soup into bowls and sprinkle with the cilantro. Soup's on.

Pineapple Skillet Upside-Down Cake

For the second year in a row, my husband has requested pineapple upside-down cake for his birthday cake. While I could have gone back to last year's recipe, which was a big hit, I prefer to use special occasions (and let's be honest, most meals) as an opportunity to seek out and try new recipes. I spent many lunch breaks searching for new pineapple upside-down cake recipes that sounded intriguing, but came across this gem completely by accident. I was paging through my Rick Bayless cookbooks looking for tomatillo recipes and stumbled upon this recipe in the dessert section because I end up paging through cookbooks like most people flip through magazines, unable to just look up specific recipes or ingredients. And what a happy accident it was! This cake has the sweet, caramelized topping that everyone loves so much in an upside-down cake, support by a nutty, moist cake. Not only is this cake a treat right out of the oven, but it stays moist and becomes saturated with delicious caramel flavor if you are lucky enough to have leftovers.


With plenty of berries, apples, peaches, and pears at the farmer's market, I'm already planning on making this again, although I might make a few changes, substituting turbinado sugar for the white sugar and using all whole wheat pastry flour instead of half all-purpose and half whole wheat flour. This versatile cake recipe is as appropriate for a special occasion like a birthday as a regular weeknight when you need a small treat to perk up the evening so take a few minutes to treat yourself and your family to this delicious, but not too decadent, dessert.

Pineapple (or Other Fruit) Skillet Upside-Down Cake
from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless
serves 8

3 ounces (6 tablespoons) butter, preferably unsalted
1/2 cup packed brown sugar (I prefer the dark brown variety)
3 cups 1/2-inch cubed, cleaned pineapple (you'll need about three-quarters of a medium pineapple OR 3 cups (about 1 pound) fresh or IQF (individually quick frozen) raspberries, blackberries, blueberries or pitted cherries OR 3 cups 1/2-inch cubes apple, pear, peaches, nectarines or mango
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup whole wheat flour (or additional all-purpose flour)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 cup white sugar
1 "large" egg
3/4 cup buttermilk or plain yogurt

1. Turn on the oven to 375 degrees and position a rack in the middle. Melt the butter in a large (10-inch) skillet, with an ovenproof handle, preferably nonstick, over medium heat. Swirl the butter in the skillet until it turns nut-brown, then pout it into a medium bowl. Without wiping out the skillet, sprinkle the brown sugar evenly over the bottom. Top with the fruit in an even layer.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, salt, soda, and baking powder. Add the white sugar to the browned butter and whisk until thoroughly combined. Whisk in the egg, then the buttermilk or yogurt. Pour the wet ingredients into the bowl with the dry ones. Whisk to thoroughly combine.

3. Pour the batter evenly over the fruit in the skillet. Slide the skillet into the oven and bake about 35 minutes, until the cake is golden brown and springy to the touch at the center. Remove and let cool 10 minutes.

4. Invert a plate over the skillet, then, holding plate and skillet firmly together with towels or pot holders, invert the two in one swift movement. Remove the skillet, and the cake is ready to serve. It's best right out of the oven.

Adobo Marinade

Even though I'm an adventurous and ambitious cook most of the time, I tend to fall into a burgers and brats rut when it comes to grilling. I do make all kinds of different creative burgers, but I thought it was time to tackle another protein for my traditional Sunday grilling. I settled on chicken tacos to satisfy my craving for Mexican food and desire to eat a little lighter after a day of heavy indulgence at a Brewer game, and went my favorite source for Mexican cuisine, Rick Bayless, for this simple and delicious adobo marinade recipe. This marinade gets a tremendous depth of flavor from the ancho chile but isn't too hot to enjoy the flavor of the chiles. It may be a little bit much for those who don't like spicy food, but I think most people will happily enjoy proteins marinaded in this delicious mixture.

To make the tacos pictured above, I marinated 1 pound of boneless, skinless chicken breasts with about 1/4 cup of the marinade for a few hours, then grilled them over charcoal along with three bell peppers and one white onion. I sliced up the chicken, peppers, and onion, and served them in fresh, warm, corn tortillas, topped with salsa for a satisfying and healthy lunch with a side of refried beans.

Adobo Marinade 
from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless
makes about 3/4 cup

1 tablespoon vegetable or olive oil
4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped or pressed through a garlic press
1/3 cup ground ancho chile powderr
2 tablespoons (apple cider vinegar is common in Mexico)
1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
1/2 teaspoon sugar
Salt

1. In a small saucepan, heat the oil over medium. Add the garlic and stir until fragrant, but not browned, about 1 minute, then add the ancho powder, vinegar, oregano, sugar, 3/4 teaspoon salt and 3/4 cup water, whisking to combine thoroughly. Simmer over medium-low heat for about 10 minutes to blend the flavors and eliminate the raw ancho taste. Allow to cool to room temperature, then scrape into a jar and cover. Refrigerate for up to a month or more.

Avocado-Dressed Shrimp a la Mexicana

When I have a craving for Mexican food and am on the hunt for a good recipe, I look no further than Rick Bayless. I own a number of his cookbooks, am a huge fan of his line of Frontera line of products, love his TV show, Mexico-One Plate at a Time on PBS and am dreaming of the day I get to visit one of his restaurants in Chicago. I've made a number of his recipes and have never once been disappointed in the result, this recipe being no exception. I picked this recipe out to try simply because I had a big bag of jumbo shrimp I wanted to use and a craving for Mexican food. This recipe was originally intended as an appetizer on tostadas, but I used this delicious shrimp mixture as a soft taco filling for a light and fresh dinner, along with a side of black beans cooking with onion, garlic, and spices. The tacos will be even more extraordinary if you make your own fresh corn tortillas, which I prefer to do when I have the time, but won't disappoint with store-bought tortillas. Although a fabulous dinner now, this dish is perfectly suited for a lingering dinner on the patio on a hot summer day, accompanied by a crisp cold beer and good company.

Avocado-Dressed Shrimp a la Mexicana
adapted slightly from Rick Bayless
makes 12 small tacos, serving 4 as a main course

12 ounces jumbo cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined, each cut into 4 or 5 pieces
1 medium white onion, cut into 1/4-inch pieces, rinsed under cold running water and drained
1/4 cup finely chopped recipe ready sun-dried tomatoes, plus extra for garnish (not oil-packed)
1/4 to 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
Hot green chiles to taste (usually 3 serranos  or 1 to 2 jalapenos), stemmed and roughly chopped
1 medium, ripe avocado, pitted, flesh scooped from the skin
1/3 cup (loosely packed) roughly chopped cilantro (thick bottom stems cut off), plus extra for garnish
Salt
12 small corn tortillas

1. In a medium bowl, combine the shrimp, onion, and 1/4 cup sun-dried tomato.

2. Measure the lime juice into a food processor or blender.  Cover and turn on.  Drop the chiles and when chopped, turn off and scoop in the avocado and cilantro.  Process until smooth.  Thin to a "creamy dressing" consistency with water, usually 2 to 3 tablespoons.  Taste and season with salt, usually about 1 teaspoon.  (You will have about 1 1/2 cups.) 

3. Mix the dressing into the shrimp mixture.  Cover with plastic wrap directly on the surface of the shrimp and refrigerate.  When you're ready to serve, scoop into the tortillas (about 1/4 cup per tortilla) and decorate with cilantro and diced sun-dried tomatoes.