Thanksgiving 2013 in Review - Leftovers Redux

When it comes to holiday feasts, I'm mostly a traditionalist. This year, as in years past, I cooked up an entirely homemade feast of turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy, candied sweet potatoes, roasted Brussels sprouts and squash, rolls, cranberry sauce, and pumpkin pie. While I relished each bite freshly prepared, the leftovers might be better than the main event. I ate my fill at dinner time and picked at leftovers throughout the day on Thursday, but Friday when was the experimenting began.

Leftovers found a new fate as soon as I woke up Friday morning, starting with oatmeal with candied sweet potatoes (made with butter, maple syrup, and walnuts) and cranberry sauce.

Sweet potatoes, turkey, and cranberry sauce found their way into my lunch in the form of turkey fried rice with sweet potatoes, peas, and a cranberry teriyaki sauce. If hadn't eaten all the squash and Brussels sprouts the day before, I would have used them here in lieu of the peas I had to retrieve from the freezer.

Cocktail hour is a fine way to start Friday night, with cranberry sauce finding a purpose there as well. In a take on a smash cocktail, I combined gin, cranberry sauce, lemon juice, and simple syrup, topped with an optional splash of soda water.

With my appetite properly whetted, I moved on to the main course - a turkey and Gruyere melt with cranberry sauce, a side of gravy for dipping, and candied sweet potato hash.

Saturday's lunch was a slapdash shepherd's pie, a fine place to use up turkey and any lingering veggies, or a way to sneak some fresh ones in.

The last of the mashed potatoes were devoured in a hearty Sunday morning breakfast of potato pancakes, dunked in the last of the gravy, and scrambled eggs with veggies.

Lunch was a bit lighter fare, the penultimate bits of turkey added to a spinach salad of red onion, dried cranberries, toasted walnuts, and blue cheese, topped with a cranberry sauce vinaigrette, and accompanied by the last of the rolls.

Breakfast for dinner is in the works for tonight, the very last of turkey likely finding its way into a hearty clean-out-the-fridge hash or quinoa stir-fry, officially closing out Thanksgiving and helping me get ready for my next winter CSA delivery on Wednesday.

So tell me, how did you use your leftovers?

Warm Barley with Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Toasted Walnuts, and Dried Cranberries

Even though temps made it into the mid-70s yesterday, it is most definitely fall here in Wisconsin. The leaves are changing, orchards are bursting with apples to pick, and the threat of a hard freeze has made it necessary to cover my herbs and vegetables at night. I'm going to be sad when the icy hand of Jack Frost kills my modest garden, but I can take solace in the staple crops of fall, like Brussels sprouts. These bitty cabbages turn into delicious cruciferous candy when roasted, expertly paired with sweet-tart cranberries and rich walnuts in the main course grain salad. A perfectly balanced sauce of butter, balsamic, maple syrup, and citrus blends everything together, highlighting the nuances of each ingredient without overwhelming the dish. In my mind barley is fall and winter grain, but this could also be made with wheat berries (Middleton's original pick), quinoa, or even brown rice. Whole grains will work best here (i.e. no white rice), the nuttiness and chewiness a wonderful contrast for all the other components. The grain mostly serves as a canvas for other flavors, but each choice brings it's own subtle flavor, so pick whatever flavor and texture pleases you most. A warm and hearty bowl of fall, this vegetarian main is an exceptional way to celebrate the season.

Warm Barley with Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Toasted Walnuts, and Dried Cranberries
adapted from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 4

1 cup pearled barley
Kosher salt
1 pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed and quartered lengthwise
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons orange juice
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon pure maple syrups
1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
1/2 cup chopped dried cranberries
1/2 cup chopped toasted walnuts
2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Prepare barley according to package directions, set aside, and keep warm.

2. While the barley is cooking, preheat the oven to 475 degrees F. In a medium mixing bowl, toss the Brussels sprouts with the olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Arrange the sprouts in a single layer in a 13-by-9-inch baking dish (they will be snug). Roast until brown and tender, stirring once, if you like, 18 to 22 minutes. If the sprouts finish ahead of the wheat berries, keep them in the pan, loosely covered with aluminum foil.

3. In a small saucepan, combine the orange juice, vinegar, maple syrups, and lemon zest and bring just to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook, stirring, just for about 15 seconds. Remove the pan from the heat and add the butter, one or two pieces at a time, whisking after each addition until the butter is melted and creamy. (Don't reheat the mixture, or the butter will break and the sauce will not be creamy.) In a large mixing bowl, combine the wheat berries, Brussels sprouts, and cranberries; season with 1/2 teaspoon salt; and pour the sauce over them. Stir gently but thoroughly. Add half the walnuts and half the parsley and stir well again.

4. Serve warm, garnished with the remaining walnuts and parsley.

Brussels Sprouts and Carrot Ragout

Brussels sprouts get a bad rap, and undeservedly so. Because my parents had only been forced to eat them in the tasteless, overdone way of the 1950s, I was never subjected to them as a child. As an adult, I discovered Brussels sprouts through a winter CSA, and I've since come to really look forward to beginning of their season each year. I typically roast them, with a different Susie Middleton recipe being my absolute favorite way to prepare them. Susie Middleton undoubtedly knows her way around veggies, so when these popped up for the first time this year, I wasted no time trying out this Brussels sprouts recipe from her new cookbook. Sweet carrots and beautifully caramelized onions turn out to be the perfect companion these slightly bitter mini-cabbages, punctuated by a hint of pungent Dijon and a suite of acidic accents. I had this as a main dish over brown rice with a sprinkling of hazelnuts over the top, but it would be splendid as a side dish without. The butter and olive oil make this much more luxurious that you'd typically expect a vegetable dish to be and substantial enough to be satisfying. This recipe is a fitting transition from summer to fall eating, and a great way to introduce (or re-introduce) yourself to an unjustifiably maligned vegetable.

Brussels Sprouts and Carrot Ragout
adapted from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 2 or 3, or 4 with rice

3 tablespoons orange juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon Balsamic vinegar
3 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter (with 1 1/2 tablespoons cut into 6 pieces and kept chilled in the refrigerator)
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
12 ounces Brussels Sprouts, trimmed and quartered
Kosher salt
3/4 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1 1/2-inch-long and 3/8- to 1/2-inch wide sticks
1/2 pound cipollini onions, peeled and cut through the stem end into 3/4-inch wide wedges (imagine slicing a pizza)
1 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
3/4 cup frozen peas, thawed
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh tarragon
Sliced fresh chives for garnish (optional)
Short-grain brown rice for serving (optional)
1/2 cup coarsely chopped toasted hazelnuts for garnish (optional)

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the orange juice, mustard, lemon zest, and vinegar. In a large Dutch oven or other deep, wide pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-low heat. When the butter has melted, add the Brussels sprouts and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until the sprouts are all browned and tender but still somewhat firm, 10 to 14 minutes. (They will continue to cook a bit off the heat). If they are browning too fast, reduce the heat a bit. Be sure to replace the lid after stirring; it retains moisture for steaming the veggies. Transfer the sprouts to a plate and take the pan off the heat for a moment.

2. Return the pan to medium-low heat and add 1 tablespoon of the butter, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the carrots, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook, stirring frequently but gently, until the carrots are tender but not mushy (you can test with a paring knife) and nicely browned, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer the carrots to the plate with the Brussels sprouts. You will have some browning on the bottom of the pan.

3. Reduce the heat to low and add 1 tablespoons of the oil, the onions, and a big pinch of salt to the pan. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are browned and tender, 6 to 8 minutes. (They will have lost their stiffness and opacity and a few will be falling apart). Uncover, add the garlic, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Return the carrots and Brussels sprouts to the pan and add the peas and orange juice mixture. Stir well, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, and continue to cook just until the vegetables have absorbed almost all the liquid. (This will happen quickly.) Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cold butter, a few pieces at a time, just until melted and creamy. Stir in the chopped tarragon.

4. Serve immediately, garnished with the chives (if using) or serve it over the brown rice, garnished with hazelnuts (if you like).

Roasted Parmesan Brussels Sprouts

I didn't discover the deliciousness of Brussels sprouts until last year, when I received them in my CSA box. My dad has less that fond memories of Brussels sprouts from his childhood, growing up the era of boiling vegetables into mush, and my mom is not a fan so they never subjected me to them during my childhood (and were probably just happy that broccoli was one of my favorite foods). Add the fact that Brussels sprouts have a notoriously bad reputation, I was a bit hesitant to try them when they first found their way into my CSA box, but I am extremely adverturous eater and will try nearly anything at least once. The first recipe I tried, Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Orange Butter Sauce from Susie Middleton's Fast, Fresh and Green, made me realize that I absolutely adore these delicious little cruciferous vegetables. That recipe was so delicious that I served it at Thanksgiving dinner and made my dad realize that Brussels sprouts could be delicious (and my mom realize they could be tolerable). After an impulse purchase of a large bag of Brussels sprouts at the farmer's market a few weeks ago, I created this super-simple recipe when I wanted to perk up my sprouts just a bit from a simple roasting in olive oil, salt, and pepper (although that is delicious as well). Just the addition of a bit of salt, savory Parmesan cheese after roasting makes this dish feel special and decadent, provided you're using good, freshly grated Parmesan cheese (like SarVecchio or Hook's). Let these recipes inspire you to forget all your pre-conceived notions and discover (or rediscover) Brussels sprouts; you may just discover a new favorite side dish.

Roasted Parmesan Brussels Sprouts
serves 2 to 4

1 pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. In a large bowl toss the brussels sprouts with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spread Brussels sprouts in an even layer on a prepared baking sheet.

2. Roast in the oven for 30 minutes, until the brussels sprouts are tender and browned in spots; rotating the pans and stirring the brussels sprouts halfway through roasting. Remove from the oven, transfer to a bowl, toss with the Parmesan cheese and serve hot.

Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Orange Butter Sauce

Before I made this recipe, I'd never tried Brussels sprouts. My dad absolutely hated Brussels sprouts as a kid, so they didn't make an appearance in my childhood meals. That, in combination with their notoriety in the vegetable world, meant that I've never made the effort to try them. But when they made an appearance in my CSA box, I went straight for my favorite vegetable cookbook and picked out a recipe. And I was definitely not disappointed! The deep flavor of caramelization combined with a rich butter sauce accented with orange and maple flavors was absolutely divine. I now see how Brussels sprouts are a traditional Thanksgiving dish for many families.

Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Orange Butter Sauce
from Fast, Fresh, and Green by Susie Middleton

1 lb. small Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved lengthwise
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup
1 tablespoon fresh orange juice
1/2 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 16 pieces

1. Preheat the oven to 475 degrees F. Line a large (18x13x1-inch) heavy-duty rimmed sheet pan with a piece of parchment paper.

2. In a mixing bowl, toss the Brussels sprouts with the olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Arrange the sprouts in one layer, cut side down, on the parchment.

3. Roast until brown and tender, 15 to 18 minutes. (The tops will be dark brown and crispy and the sprouts should feel tender when pierced with a paring knife. Transfer the sprouts to a mixing bowl.

4. Combine the balsamic vinegar, maple syrup, orange juice, and orange zest in a small saucepan. Heat the mixture over medium heat just until it's hot (you will see a bit of steam), but not simmering. Remove the pan from heat and add the cold butter, several pieces at a time, whisking constantly until the mixture is smooth and creamy. (Don't reheat the mixture or the butter will break and the sauce won't be creamy). Pour the sauce over the sprouts and stir thoroughly but gently until most of the sauce has been absorbed. Transfer the sprouts and any remaining sauce to a serving platter or dinner plates.