Caramelized Cauliflower with Bacon and Spinach

In my humble opinion, few vegetables take on caramelization as beautifully as cauliflower. I could eat Dijon-Roasted Cauliflower by the pound, and it was hard to tear myself away from one of my all-time favorite recipes to try something new with the many heads of cauliflower I've bought at the farmers' market this fall. Although it's become a cliche, bacon really does make things better. Vegetarians, vegans, and those adhering to a strict kosher diet aside, I don't know many people who don't love that smoky, salty, savory perfection. Bacon is a really high-mileage food - just a little bit gives a dish a lot of flavor and meatiness. I'm a meat lover, but not a huge meat consumer for environmental, moral, and health reasons, so when I do incorporate meat into my diet, I like to make the most out of my indulgence. The smoky bacon extravagance is balanced by fresh dill and spinach and bright lemon juice, creating a well-rounded dish that could almost be a meal in itself (and if you throw in a can of white beans or chickpeas, it most certainly can be). A balance of luxury and nutrition, this dish celebrates is a perfect way to celebrate one of the best vegetables fall has to offer.

Caramelized Cauliflower with Bacon and Spinach
adapted from Food and Wine
serves 4

2 ounces thick-cut bacon, sliced into small pieces
1 small cauliflower (1 1/4 pounds), cored and cut into small florets
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped dill
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
5 ounces baby spinach

1. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook over moderate heat until the fat has been rendered and bacon is crisp. Remove bacon from the pan with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

2. Stir in the cauliflower, onion, dill and bay leaf and season with salt and pepper. Cover, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is tender and browned, about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the pan from heat and stir in the spinach, stirring constantly until the spinach is just beginning to wilt.

2. In a large bowl, mix the lemon juice with the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Add the cauliflower mixture, toss and serve, garnished with the bacon bits.

Reuben Poutine

Although I can't say I've been too pleased with some of Packer games so far, my snacks have been right on. I started off the season with Classic Poutine, and since then have come up with a few of my own variations, the first of which I'm sharing with you now. Adapting the Reuben to new dishes is kind of a theme with me (see Reuben Dip or Reuben Pizza), so it only seemed natural to make Reuben poutine. Classic poutine is a pure expression of savoriness, and while this poutine variation gains an extra salty, savory component (corned beef), the sour bite of the sauerkraut provides the perfect surprising contrast that allows each ingredient to pop. Although rye bread is swapped out for crispy fries and gravy replaces Thousand Island/Russian dressing, the spirit of the Reuben remains intact in this new spin on a classic. Perfectly paired with a porter or stout, this takes football snacking to a whole new level, satisfying even the heartiest of appetites.

Reuben Poutine
gravy adapted from The Food Network
serves 2

1/2 tablespoon canola oil
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 tablespoon finely minced garlic
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup beef stock
1 tablespoon ketchup
1/2 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
12 ounces frozen french fries
1/4 cup sauerkraut, drained and at room temperature or slightly warm

4 ounces shredded corned beef, at room temperature or slightly warm

4 ounces fresh cheese curds, at room temperature or slightly warm

1. Make the gravy: Heat canola oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken and beef stock, ketchup, vinegar, and Worcestershire sauce and bring to a boil.

2. Meanwhile, in a separate saucepan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the flour and make a roux, stirring until slightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk the stock mixture into the roux and simmer until reduced by half, about 20 minutes. Season the gravy with salt and pepper and keep warm.

3. Meanwhile, bake the fries according to package directions. Shortly before the fries are ready to come out of the oven, strain the gravy.

4. Divide the fries evenly between two shallow dishes, layering half of the sauerkraut, corned beef, and cheese curds on top of each pile of fries. Pour half the hot gravy over each and serve warm.

Smoky Chipotle Black Bean Chili

Fall is chili weather. I've made traditional Better Homes and Gardens chili more times than I can count, each time bringing up fond memories of cooking up a batch in a big cast iron pot with my dad as a kid. Much like getting the wishbone is good luck with the Thanksgiving turkey, in my kid brain getting the bay leaf in your bowl of chili was good luck (so as long as you didn't find it by taking a big bite). Although I hope to develop my own signature, but still largely traditional, chili recipe at some point in my life, my recent experimentation in that department has been largely with bean-based chilies. Some may argue that they're not chili at all, but I find bowls of Pinto Bean and Sweet Potato Chili or Quick Three Bean Chili just as hearty and satisfying as any with beef. But of all the bean chilies I've had and made, this has to be my favorite. As in all Susie Middleton recipes, she builds a complex palate with a deft use of spices, each taste keeping you guessing about what you're enjoying in each bite. This chili has a complex heat from ancho and chipotle chilies with a layered smoky flavor, joined a by melange of sweet and savory spices that coexist in perfect harmony. Red wine allows the spices to bloom and intense tomato paste creates savoriness and umami without meat for a balanced and satisfying dish. Hearty, healthy, and packed with flavor this is the perfect way to fortify yourself for the winter to come.

Smoky Chipotle Black Bean Chili
adapted from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 6

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon ground ancho chile
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon Mexican oregano
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa
1/4 teaspoon ground (dried) chipotle chili
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
Kosher salt
1/4 cup dry red wine
1/4 cup tomato paste
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro stems and leaves, plus 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves, plus additional for garnish
2 teaspoons finely chopped canned chipotle in adobo, plus 2 teaspoons adobo sauce from the can
1 1/2 cups (one 14.5-ounce can) fire-roasted crushed tomatoes
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large or two medium onions, cut into 3/4-inch dice (about 1 1/2 cups)
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh jalapeno, seeds and ribs removed
Three 15.5-ounce cans black beans, drained and rinsed
Brown rice, for serving
Salsa, for serving (optional)
Sour cream, goat cheese, or queso fresco, for serving (optional)
Toasted pepitas, for serving (optional)
6 lime wedges (optional)

1. In a small bowl, combine the ground ancho chile, coriander, cumin, oregano, paprika, brown sugar, cocoa, ground chipotle, cinnamon, cloves, and 1 1/2 teaspoon salt. Set aside.

2. In a liquid measure, whisk together the red wine, tomato paste, finely chopped cilantro stems and leaves, the chopped chipotle, and the adobo. Set aside.

3. In another liquid measure or bowl, combine the crushed tomatoes with 3 cups water and stir well.

4. In a large Dutch oven, heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat. When the butter has melted, add the onion, bell pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt and stir. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Uncover, raise the heat to medium-high, and continue cooking until the onion is lightly browned, another 7 to 8 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the garlic and jalapeno, and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 1 minutes.

5. Add the dried spice mixture and cook, stirring and scraping until well incorporated, 20 to 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste mixture and cook, stirring and scraping it against the sides of the pan, for 1 to 2 minutes.

6. Add the crushed tomato mixture and cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan, until well combined. Bring the mixture to a gently simmer, and cook, loosely covered, stirring occasionally and continuing to scrape the bottom of the pan, for 20 minutes. Keep and eye on the heat and reduce it, if necessary, to maintain a gently simmer.

7. Uncover the pot and add the drained beans. Raise the heat to medium-high and return the chili to a simmer and then reduce the heat to medium-low and maintain a gentle simmer. Stir thoroughly and cook, partially covered, for 10 minutes.

8.  Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro. The chili will stay warm, covered, off the heat for half an house.

9. To serve, spoon 1 cup rice into each of six deep bowl and ladle about 1 cup chili over the rice. Top with your choice of salsa, sour cream, cilantro, pepitas, and lime wedges.

Broccoli, Bacon, and Blue Cheese Salad

I really stepped it up with my lunch salad this weekend. Typically, at least one meal on both Saturday and Sunday is a main course salad for me, consisting of fresh or dried fruit, nuts, and cheese. I mix it up a lot, depending on what I happen to have around and strikes my fancy, and I never tire of it. This weekend I happen to have some leftover roasted broccoli, which conjured up memories of one of my signature dishes as a child, Broccoli Bacon Salad. I was no kid gourmand, but I could always be counted on to make Broccoli Bacon Salad or Parmesan Potato Pie for a holiday or family gathering. The broccoli in that dish was not roasted, but it started me thinking about how much I love the combination of broccoli, raisins, sunflower seeds, and bacon in that salad. With that recipe safely hidden away in a cookbook at my parents' house, I decided it was the perfect opportunity to adapt those ingredients to a main course salad. And sure enough, that combination still makes my taste buds dance with delight, even better dressed up with a bit of red onion and blue cheese. There's no doubt that there's a lot going on in this salad-smokiness from the roasted broccoli and bacon, sweetness from the raisins, saltiness from the bacon and sunflower seeds, sharpness from the red onion, and a pungent punch from the blue cheese-but it all manages to blend together in perfect harmony. No lightweight in heartiness or flavor, this salad is perfect fuel for raking the yard, picking apples, carving pumpkins, or any other favorite fall pastime.

Broccoli, Bacon, and Blue Cheese Salad
serves 1

2 ounces mixed greens, rinsed and dried
4 ounces broccoli, roasted in olive oil, salt, and pepper until browned and tender
2 slices bacon, cooked until crisp and crumbled
1/2 ounce thinly sliced red onion
2 tablespoons raisins
2 tablespoons sunflower seeds
1 ounce blue cheese, crumbled
Salad dressing, for serving

1. Spread mixed greens evenly on a large plate, distributing remaining ingredients evenly over the top. Dress with salad dressing of choice, and enjoy!

Roasted Pepper Salad

Like zucchini just a short time ago, bell peppers are everywhere at the farmers' market and at rock-bottom prices to boot. While I really like bell peppers, I usually think of them as accoutrements to dishes instead of the star. I'll heap roasted peppers on sandwiches, pizzas, or quesadillas and stuff frittatas and omelets to capacity, but I'm ashamed that I've never made a dish that really focused on the peppers before. One could argue that stuffed peppers, which I've made countless times, are pepper-centric, but really, it's all about the stuffing. I've always preferred my peppers roasted and that task has become much simpler and quicker now that I have gas stove, making roasted pepper salad an obvious way to use up my pepper surplus. Roasting the peppers intensify their sweetness, that simple flavor played up beautifully by a balanced dressing and fresh herbs here. I was surprised by how much I liked this simple salad, which turned out to be much more than just a decent way to use up some peppers lingering in the fridge, and provides an excellent template for further experimentation with other vinegars and herbs. The perfect contrast between the fresh flavors of summer and roasted heartiness of fall, try this if you're at a loss as to what to do with your early fall pepper surplus.

Roasted Pepper Salad 

from Gourmet, via Epicurious

serves 4 to 6

2 lb mixed bell peppers, tender-roasted and cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch- wide strips
3 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons capers in brine, rinsed and drained
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1. Toss together all ingredients and let stand, covered, 1 hour for flavors to develop.

Southwestern Spiced Butternut Squash and Apple Soup

I'm usually sick of butternut squash by the time my winter CSA share is over, but I'm nevertheless excited each year when it first shows up at the farmers' market. Although pumpkin is the king of squashes in my book, butternut and acorn aren't that far behind in the rank, making for marvelous companions for sweet and savory accents alike. In this soup, butternut squash combines its sweetness with both more from the Golden Delicious and savory onions and garlic, all cut with a bright punch of acidity. Even with no fat involved, butternut squash makes a supremely silky soup, but the extra richness from a modest amount of olive oil, butter, and Greek yogurt pushes this soup from just good to slightly decadent. The sophisticated blend of spices sing against this lush backdrop, a beautiful melange of smoky, sweet, and spicy with a positively  intoxicating aroma. Recipes like this highlight the quintessential flavors of fall, light enough for the not-yet-freezing temperatures, but hearty enough to satisfy the stomach and soul as the cold winter temperatures begin their slow creep in.

Southwestern Spiced Butternut Squash and Apple Soup
adapted from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 4

1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground ancho chile
1/2 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Kosher salt
1/4 cup apple cider
1 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce or tamari
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups medium-diced onion from about 2 medium onions
1 1/2 pounds peeled butternut squash from about 1 medium squash, but into medium (3/4-inch) piecces
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 Golden Delicious apple (about 7 ounces), peeled, cored, and cut into 3/4-inch pieces (about 1 1/2 cups), or other apple of choice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup full-fat Greek yogurt or sour cream
1/2 teaspoon finely grated lime zest
1/2 to 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lime juice
2 to 3 tablespoons finely chopped toasted pecans or pepitas for garnish (optional)

1. In a small bowl, combine the coriander, cumin, ground ancho chile, cocoa, sugar, cinnamon, and 1 teaspoon salt. Set aside. In a small liquid measure, combine the apple cider and soy sauce. Set aside.

2. In a large Dutch oven, heat he olive oil and butter over medium heat. When the butter has melted, add the onions and 1/2 teaspoon salt and stir well. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened and beginning to turn brown, about 8 minutes. Add the butternut squash and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook until the squash and softened (it won't be completely tender) and has taken on some browning and the onions are lightly browned (the bottom of the pan will be brown), stirring occasionally at first, as the squash steams, and more frequently, scraping the bottom of the pan, as it begins to brown, 12 to 4 minutes more.

3. Uncover the pot, add the garlic, and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the spice mixture and stir well. Add the cider-soy sauce mixture and stir well, scraping any browned bits off the bottom of the pot.  Add the apple and 5 cups water, stir, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a gentle simmer and cook, uncovered, stirring and scraping the sides occasionally, for 15 minutes to blend the flavors and finish cooking the apple. Let the soup cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

4. In a blender, puree the soup in three batches, filling the jar only about halfway or just a little more and partially covering the lid with a folded dish towel (leaving a vent uncovered to let out steam) to prevent hot soup from splashing you. In a large mixing bowl, combine the three batches. (Alternatively, blend the soup with an immersion blender). Whisk in the yogurt, cilantro, lime zest, and 1/2 teaspoon of the lime juice. Taste the soup for seasoning and add more salt, if needed. Return the soup to the (rinsed) pot and gently reheat. Taste again and season with more salt or more lime juice (if desired).

5. Serve hot, garnished with toasted pecans (if using).

Warm Barley with Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Toasted Walnuts, and Dried Cranberries

Even though temps made it into the mid-70s yesterday, it is most definitely fall here in Wisconsin. The leaves are changing, orchards are bursting with apples to pick, and the threat of a hard freeze has made it necessary to cover my herbs and vegetables at night. I'm going to be sad when the icy hand of Jack Frost kills my modest garden, but I can take solace in the staple crops of fall, like Brussels sprouts. These bitty cabbages turn into delicious cruciferous candy when roasted, expertly paired with sweet-tart cranberries and rich walnuts in the main course grain salad. A perfectly balanced sauce of butter, balsamic, maple syrup, and citrus blends everything together, highlighting the nuances of each ingredient without overwhelming the dish. In my mind barley is fall and winter grain, but this could also be made with wheat berries (Middleton's original pick), quinoa, or even brown rice. Whole grains will work best here (i.e. no white rice), the nuttiness and chewiness a wonderful contrast for all the other components. The grain mostly serves as a canvas for other flavors, but each choice brings it's own subtle flavor, so pick whatever flavor and texture pleases you most. A warm and hearty bowl of fall, this vegetarian main is an exceptional way to celebrate the season.

Warm Barley with Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Toasted Walnuts, and Dried Cranberries
adapted from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 4

1 cup pearled barley
Kosher salt
1 pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed and quartered lengthwise
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons orange juice
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon pure maple syrups
1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
1/2 cup chopped dried cranberries
1/2 cup chopped toasted walnuts
2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Prepare barley according to package directions, set aside, and keep warm.

2. While the barley is cooking, preheat the oven to 475 degrees F. In a medium mixing bowl, toss the Brussels sprouts with the olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Arrange the sprouts in a single layer in a 13-by-9-inch baking dish (they will be snug). Roast until brown and tender, stirring once, if you like, 18 to 22 minutes. If the sprouts finish ahead of the wheat berries, keep them in the pan, loosely covered with aluminum foil.

3. In a small saucepan, combine the orange juice, vinegar, maple syrups, and lemon zest and bring just to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook, stirring, just for about 15 seconds. Remove the pan from the heat and add the butter, one or two pieces at a time, whisking after each addition until the butter is melted and creamy. (Don't reheat the mixture, or the butter will break and the sauce will not be creamy.) In a large mixing bowl, combine the wheat berries, Brussels sprouts, and cranberries; season with 1/2 teaspoon salt; and pour the sauce over them. Stir gently but thoroughly. Add half the walnuts and half the parsley and stir well again.

4. Serve warm, garnished with the remaining walnuts and parsley.