Spicy, Garlicky Corkscrew Pasta

Pasta + veggie + cheese is a versatile formula that can hardly go wrong. This recipe is one such example of a magical alchemical combinations of those elements that results in wild success. Crisp, caramelized broccoli blends seamlessly with pungent sweet and chewy sundried tomatoes and creamy, pungent goat cheese. Red pepper flakes add a punch of spice (which I would happily increase if serving only myself) and (high-quality) Parmesan cheese dusts everything with enough umami to make the absence of meat only a passing thought. Although this is a winning combination, I could see easily substituting cauliflower for the broccoli and olives and/or capers for the sundried tomatoes, with that only being one of many stunning possible combinations. It's a great weeknight dinner, full of whole grains, vegetables, and most importantly, flavor, that can be whipped up in the time that it takes for moo shu pork to arrive on your doorstep. A classic formula that can become a tribute to the season, this recipe, whether used verbatim or merely as a template, is something every home chef should have in their back pocket.

Spicy, Garlicky Corkscrew Pasta with Broccoli, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, and Goat Cheese
adapted from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 4

1/2 pound dried whole wheat cavatappi, fusili, or other corkscrew-shaped pasta
5 tablespoons extra-virgin live oil, plus more if needed
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 pound small broccoli florets, cut into pieces about 1 to 1 1/4-inch long and 1/2 to 3/4-inch wide
1/2 cup thinly sliced drained oil-packed sundried tomatoes
2 ounces goat cheese, crumbled while still cold
1/3 cup coarsely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Put a colander in the sink and place a glass liquid measure next to it. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente, 9 to 10 minutes, or according to the package instructions. Take the pot off the heat and, before draining the pasta, ladle or pour about 2/3 cup of the pasta water into the glass measure. Drain the pasta in the colander and let it sit, loosely covered with foil or a pot lid.

2. Have ready a small heatproof bowl near the stove. In a large nonstick stir-fry pan, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-low heat. When the oil is hot, add the garlic and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until the garlic begins to simmer in the oil. Cook for just about 30 seconds more to infuse the oil. (Do not let the garlic brown.) Pour and scrape all the seasoned oil into the heatproof bowl and reserve. Wipe the pan out with a paper towel.

3. Return the pan to heat, add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and raise the heat to medium-high. When the oil is hot (it will loosen up), add the broccoli and 1 teaspoon salt and stir well. (I like a silicone spatula for this). The pan will seem crowded and the broccoli may look dry, but don't worry; the broccoli will shrink and give off moisture as it cooks. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the broccoli has shrimp (it will mostly fit in a single layer in the pan), all the florets have turned bright green, and most have a little browning on them, about 10 minutes.

4. Measure out 1/3 cup of the pasta water (save the rest) and pour it into the stir-fry pan. Quickly add the sun-dried tomatoes. Then cover the pan briefly (if you don't have a id, improvise with a sheet pan) and continue cooking until the water as simmer down to almost nothing (this will happen in just 15 to 20 seconds). Uncover and remove the pan from the heat.

5. Add the drained pasta to the pan, season it with 1/4 teaspoon salt, and drizzle it with the reserved garlic-red pepper oil. (Be sure to scrape all the seasoned oil out of the bowl. Stir briefly. Add all of the goat cheese and most of the Parmigiano and stir until everything is well distributed. Add another 1 to 2 tablespoons pasta water and stir again until the goat cheese loosens up a bit and gets creamier. Add another 1 to 2 tablespoons pasta water, if necessary.

6. Serve right away, garnished with the remaining Parmigiano.

Classic Poutine

Football season is here! And in my house, Packer games means Packer snacks (and now that I'm old enough, appropriate Wisconsin craft beer pairings). Packer games became a Sunday tradition with my dad when I was just a little girl, and although I've graduated from crying when the Packers lose, I still honor the football and snacking ritual I learned in my formative years. I wanted to start off this year with a bang (although apparently the Packers did not), so I decided to try my hand at poutine, one of my favorite indulgences. Although it is a French-Canadian dish in origin, poutine has Wisconsin written all over it. How a dish that features fresh cheese curds took so long to make its way to at least moderate renown in Wisconsin is beyond me, but I'm very glad it has. (The Coopers Tavern is my favorite place for poutine. I had to really resist the urge to dress it up right out the gate (my mind is filled a thousand ideas), but I thought it best to start with a basic recipe. In its easiest form, this could be made with store-bought gravy, curds, and fries, or in its most culinary permutation with homemade versions of all those things, but I struck a happy medium with high-quality frozen fries, fresh cheese curds from the farmers' market, and a homemade gravy based on a recipe from (a Canadian chef on) the Food Network. Springy and squeaky fresh curds are miles ahead of shredded cheese as a fry topping, the perfect contrast to crisp fries, all united under a blanket of silky gravy. This plate of pure savoriness wasn't quite enough to make up for the poor Packer performance, but sure did bring a smile to my face as I took my first bite the instant the kicker's foot hit the ball at kickoff (another tradition of mine). Though its roots lie in French-Canadian cuisine, this dish is more than at home in Wisconsin and the perfect snack for your next Packer party.

Classic Poutine
adapted from The Food Network
serves 2

1/2 tablespoon canola oil
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 tablespoon finely minced garlic
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup beef stock
1 tablespoon ketchup
1/2 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

12 ounces frozen french fries
4 ounces fresh cheese curds, at room temperature

1. Make the gravy: Heat canola oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken and beef stock, ketchup, vinegar, and Worcestershire sauce and bring to a boil.

2. Meanwhile, in a separate saucepan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the flour and make a roux, stirring until slightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk the stock mixture into the roux and simmer until reduced by half, about 20 minutes. Season the gravy with salt and pepper and keep warm.

3. Meanwhile, bake the fries according to package directions. Shortly before the fries are ready to come out of the oven, strain the gravy.

4. Divide the fries evenly between two shallow dishes; top with the cheese curds and gravy. Serve warm.

Brussels Sprouts and Carrot Ragout

Brussels sprouts get a bad rap, and undeservedly so. Because my parents had only been forced to eat them in the tasteless, overdone way of the 1950s, I was never subjected to them as a child. As an adult, I discovered Brussels sprouts through a winter CSA, and I've since come to really look forward to beginning of their season each year. I typically roast them, with a different Susie Middleton recipe being my absolute favorite way to prepare them. Susie Middleton undoubtedly knows her way around veggies, so when these popped up for the first time this year, I wasted no time trying out this Brussels sprouts recipe from her new cookbook. Sweet carrots and beautifully caramelized onions turn out to be the perfect companion these slightly bitter mini-cabbages, punctuated by a hint of pungent Dijon and a suite of acidic accents. I had this as a main dish over brown rice with a sprinkling of hazelnuts over the top, but it would be splendid as a side dish without. The butter and olive oil make this much more luxurious that you'd typically expect a vegetable dish to be and substantial enough to be satisfying. This recipe is a fitting transition from summer to fall eating, and a great way to introduce (or re-introduce) yourself to an unjustifiably maligned vegetable.

Brussels Sprouts and Carrot Ragout
adapted from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 2 or 3, or 4 with rice

3 tablespoons orange juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon Balsamic vinegar
3 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter (with 1 1/2 tablespoons cut into 6 pieces and kept chilled in the refrigerator)
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
12 ounces Brussels Sprouts, trimmed and quartered
Kosher salt
3/4 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1 1/2-inch-long and 3/8- to 1/2-inch wide sticks
1/2 pound cipollini onions, peeled and cut through the stem end into 3/4-inch wide wedges (imagine slicing a pizza)
1 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
3/4 cup frozen peas, thawed
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh tarragon
Sliced fresh chives for garnish (optional)
Short-grain brown rice for serving (optional)
1/2 cup coarsely chopped toasted hazelnuts for garnish (optional)

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the orange juice, mustard, lemon zest, and vinegar. In a large Dutch oven or other deep, wide pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-low heat. When the butter has melted, add the Brussels sprouts and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until the sprouts are all browned and tender but still somewhat firm, 10 to 14 minutes. (They will continue to cook a bit off the heat). If they are browning too fast, reduce the heat a bit. Be sure to replace the lid after stirring; it retains moisture for steaming the veggies. Transfer the sprouts to a plate and take the pan off the heat for a moment.

2. Return the pan to medium-low heat and add 1 tablespoon of the butter, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the carrots, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook, stirring frequently but gently, until the carrots are tender but not mushy (you can test with a paring knife) and nicely browned, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer the carrots to the plate with the Brussels sprouts. You will have some browning on the bottom of the pan.

3. Reduce the heat to low and add 1 tablespoons of the oil, the onions, and a big pinch of salt to the pan. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are browned and tender, 6 to 8 minutes. (They will have lost their stiffness and opacity and a few will be falling apart). Uncover, add the garlic, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Return the carrots and Brussels sprouts to the pan and add the peas and orange juice mixture. Stir well, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, and continue to cook just until the vegetables have absorbed almost all the liquid. (This will happen quickly.) Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cold butter, a few pieces at a time, just until melted and creamy. Stir in the chopped tarragon.

4. Serve immediately, garnished with the chives (if using) or serve it over the brown rice, garnished with hazelnuts (if you like).

Baked Pasta with Spinach and Mushrooms

I don't many people who will turn down a plate of ooey-gooey, cheesy pasta. (Needless to say, I'm not friends with a lot of vegans). Being a Wisconsin girl, I can hardly to say no to something bursting with cheese, but I still love my whole grains and veggies. With a few tweaks to Susie Middleton's recipe, I turned this dish into the perfect compromise of both of those food aspirations. Spinach is my favorite green in pasta, and mushrooms a natural companion, but kale or broccoli could also be wonderful in this recipe. This can be as homemade as you'd like, with homemade sauce and fresh-from-the-garden veggies (and even homemade pasta and cheese if you're so inclined), or can be thrown together quickly with store-bought sauce and frozen vegetables, making it a recipe suitable from everyone from the harried working mom to the hardcore foodie. It can also run the gamut from economical to truly luxurious, from family weekday dinner to special date night. Packed with nutrition and flavor, but adaptable to nearly any time frame, taste, or budget, this is a recipe that every (non-vegan) needs to keep in their back pocket.

Baked Pasta with Spinach and Mushrooms
adapted from The Fresh and Green Table
serves 4

Extra-virgin olive oil
4 cups homemade or purchased tomato sauce
Kosher salt
8 ounces dried (whole wheat) pasta of your choice (e.g. fusili, penne, cavatappi, rotini etc.)
8 ounces diced or shredded fresh mozzarella
3/4 cup coarsely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (or Parmesan) cheese
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or parsley or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or thyme (or a combination)
8 ounces fresh cremini mushrooms, sliced and sauteed in olive oil until shrunken and golden brown
4 to 5 ounces fresh spinach, blanched and thoroughly drained or sauteed in olive oil until wilted

1. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Brush a 3-quart shallow gratin or other baking dish with olive oil. Put the tomato sauce in a medium mixing bowl.

2. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and add 1 teaspoon salt. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente, or according to the package instructions. Before draining add 6 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water to the tomato sauce and whisk to thin the sauce slightly. Drain the pasta in a colander and transfer it to the bowl of sauce. Sprinkle it with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add the mozzarella, 6 tablespoons of the Parmigiano-Reggiano, the herbs, mushrooms, and spinach to the pasta and stir well.

3. Transfer the pasta mixture to the prepared baking dish, spreading it in an even layer. Top with the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano. Bake until brown and bubbly, about 20 minutes. Let cool for a minute or two and serve hot.

Shorty's Brown Rice

Last week I spiced up my rice with green beans and toasted pecans and now I present another option on that same theme from Susie Middleton's amazing new cookbook. Both recipes follow the same basic format (rice + vegetable + toasted nuts) and are equally delicious in very diverse ways. Whereas Chile Rice is reminiscent of Latin American and Mexican cuisine, this recipe rice calls up the flavors of Asia. The well-browned carrots and onions feel homey and hearty, but the ginger, garlic, and mint keep the dish fresh and bright. The toasted nuts make this hearty enough to be a light vegetarian main dish, but I served it with grilled chicken to make dinner feel complete for the carnivore that was my dining companion. (I had it sans meat for lunch the next two days.) I'm sometimes guilty of sometimes focusing more on the sides than the main event, so I especially love dishes like this that only leave me with cooking up a protein to complete a meal. After a few of Middleton's dishes in this vein, my imagination is running wild with ideas for my own grain + veggie + toasted nut side dishes (and hopefully yours is too).

Shorty's Brown Rice with Stir-Fried Carrots, Ginger, Mint, and Toasted Almonds
from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 4

1 cup short-grain brown rice
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons peanut or vegetable oil
1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1 1/2-inch long and 3/8- to 1/2-inch-wide sticks
1 small onion (about 5 ounces), halved and cut lengthwise into 3/8-inch-thick slices
Kosher salt
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces and kept chilled
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, cilantro, or a combination of the two
1/4 cup toasted almonds, chopped or slivered

1. Fill a pasta pot two-thirds full with water (at least 10 cups) and bring the water to a boil. Rinse the rich in a fine-mesh colander or strainer and add it to the boiling water. Stir once and boil for 30 minutes. Drain the rice in a colander, shaking it to remove excess water, and return the rice to the pot (off the heat). Cover with a tight-fitting lid and let sit for 10 to 15 minutes. (The rice will absorb the remaining moisture).

2. In a large nonstick stir-fry pan, heat the peanut oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot (it will loosen up), add the carrots, onion, and 1 teaspoon salt and stir well with tongs.

3. Cook, stirring only occasionally at first, and more frequently as the veggies begin to brown and the carrots are tender, 15 to 17 minutes. They will be somewhat firm but will have shrunk and become more pliable. (Don't be tempted to raise the heat; the carrots need to steam a bit before browning).

4. Lower the heat to low, add the ginger and garlic, and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove the pan from heat, add the butter, and toss gently until they melt and become creamy. Stir in the lime juice and immediately transfer the contents of the pan to the pot of rice and stir well. Season the rice with 1/2 teaspoon salt, add most of the fresh herbs and toasted almonds, and stir well. Serve garnished with the remaining herbs and almonds.

Chile Rice with Green Beans and Toasted Pecans

Although I like to cook with less common grains like bulgur and quinoa, sometimes it's nice to come back to good old rice. Rice is more or less just a canvas for other flavors, serving as the perfect sponge for the plethora of spices in this recipe. Don't let the name chile rice scare you off if you're generally spice averse - the chile used here is the flavorful, but mild, ancho chile, which is the dried form of the poblano (perhaps my favorite pepper). More than any recipe I've made recently, I wish I could somehow make this into a scratch and sniff blog. This smoky, sweet, and nutty notes all blend together to be so much more than the sum of their parts and fill the house with an irresistible aroma. The beautifully browned green beans and toasted pecans add more delicious nutty notes that are contrasted perfect by the fresh and citrusy cilantro and lime juice. Brown rice can be substituted for the white rice, but additional cooking time (and likely water or broth) will be required, though I think it's well through the extra investment. Substantial enough to be a light main course, this can be made heartier with grilled shrimp or chicken, or even black beans, which I found to be a surprising but delicious addition to my leftovers the next day. Another home run for Susie Middleton, I hope recipes like this one will teach more people to love veggies the way I do.

Chile Rice with Green Beans and Toasted Pecans
from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 4

1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground ancho chile
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Kosher salt
1 cup milk
3/4 cup water or lower-sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 cup long-grain white rice
1 pound medium green beans, trimmed and cut cross-wise into 1/2-inch-long pieces
1/2 cup chopped toasted pecans
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice, plus more if desired
1 1/2 teaspoons pure maple syrup
1/2 lime, cut into 4 wedges

1. In a small bowl, combine the cumin, coriander, ancho chile, paprika, cinnamon, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. In a liquid measure, combine the milk and water.

2. In a medium saucepan (that has a lid, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-low heat. When the butter has melted, add the onion and 1/4 teaspoon salt, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Uncover, raise the heat to medium, and continue to cook, stirring, until lightly browned, 7 to 8 minutes more. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the spice mixture and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add all the rice and about a quarter of the mixture and stir, mixing well and scraping all the spices from the bottom of the pan.

3. Add the remaining milk mixture and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to very low, cover tightly, and cook for 20 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, in a heavy nonstick medium skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium-high heat. When the butter has melted, add the green beans and 1/2 teaspoon salt. The pan will look full. (That's okay; the beans will steam and brown at the same time.) Cook, stirring only occasionally at first and more frequently as the beans begin to brown, until the green beans have shrunk somewhat, all have ab it of browning, and some are dark brown, 9 to 12 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and transfer the beans to a plate.

5. Remove the rice pot from the heat and place a folded paper towel under the lid. Let sit, covered, for 5 minutes. Uncover (the foam from the milk will be on top of the rice) and fluff and stir with a fork. Re-cover loosely with the lid (leaving the paper towel in place) and let sit for 5 minutes more. Uncover and transfer the rice to a medium bowl. Stir in all the beans, three-quarters of the toasted pecans, and three-quarters of the cilantro.

6. In a small cup, combine the lime juice and maple syrup. Pour the mixture over the rice, and stir to combine. Taste the rice and season withe more salt, if needed. You can also add a bit more lime, if you like. Divide the rice among four bowls and serve garnished with the remaining pecans, cilantro, and lime wedges.

Zesty Tomato-Ginger Bisque

Although you'd never believe it after these 90-degree-plus days recently, there was a day this past week where it was more than appropriate to have grilled cheese and tomato soup for dinner. My last culinary experiment with fancy grilled cheese and tomato soup got me excited to try more, perfectly coinciding with my new obsession with Susie Middleton's newest cookbook, The Fresh and Green Table.
And just as with her last cookbook, Fast, Fresh and Green (which I was also obsessed with), no recipe I've tried so far has been a disappointment (look forward to more posts!). Although still a basic enough tomato soup to please almost anyone, the fennel and leeks provide subtle layers of flavor to entertain the sophisticated culinary palate. The zippy ginger notes make this tomato soup feel exceptionally fresh and make it perfectly suited to the end of summer. As with so many soups, any time that leftovers spend in the fridge only serves to let the flavors mingle and transform, making any leftovers a new and delightful dining experience. A fantastic way to dress up an old favorite, this recipe, along with an ostentatious grilled cheese, is a delicious new approach to a classic meal.

Zesty Tomato-Ginger Bisque
adapted from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 4

2 tablespoons orange juice
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon tomato paste or sun-dried tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Two 28-ounce cans whole, peeled tomatoes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 medium or 4 small leeks, white and pale greens parts only, thoroughly washed and cut crosswise into thin slices (1 1/2 cups, about 5 1/2 ounces)
1 small fennel bulb, stemmed, quartered, and thinly sliced (1 1/2 cups)
Kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1/2 cup half-and-half (or heavy cream, for extra decadence)
Freshly ground pepper
24 to 28 Rustic Croutons (see cookbook for recipe) or crusty bread, optional

1. In a small bowl, combine the orange juice, honey, tomato paste and balsamic vinegar. Set aisde.

2. Empty the contents of both tomato cans into a mixing bowl. Gently break up the tomatoes into smaller pieces with your hands (effective but messy!) or a pair of scissors. Add 1 cup water to the tomatoes and set aside.

3. In a large Dutch oven or other wide saucepan, heat the olive oil and butter over medium-low heat. Add the leeks, fennel, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Uncover, raise the heat to medium, and continue cooking, stirring frequently and scraping any browned bits off the bottom of the pan, until the vegetables are all browned in spots and the bottom of the pan is browning a lot, another 8 to 10 minutes.

4. Add the coriander and stir well. Add the ginger and garlic, and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the orange juice-tomato paste mixture and the tomatoes and stir well to incorporate. Bring the soup t a boil and immediately reduce to a gently simmer. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 17 to 18 minutes. (You will notice that the soup has reduced a bit). Remove the pan from heat and let the soup cool for 15 to 20 minutes.

5. In a blender, puree the soup in three batches, filling the jar only about halfway or just a little more and partially covering the lid with a folded dish towel (leaving a vent uncovered to let out steam) to prevent hot soup from splashing you. In a large mixing bowl, combine the three batches and then return the soup to the (rinsed) pot. Whisk in the half-and-half. Taste the soup for seasoning and add more salt or pepper, if needed.

6. Reheat the soup very gently. Serve hot, garnished with the croutons.