Baked Pasta with Spinach and Mushrooms

I don't many people who will turn down a plate of ooey-gooey, cheesy pasta. (Needless to say, I'm not friends with a lot of vegans). Being a Wisconsin girl, I can hardly to say no to something bursting with cheese, but I still love my whole grains and veggies. With a few tweaks to Susie Middleton's recipe, I turned this dish into the perfect compromise of both of those food aspirations. Spinach is my favorite green in pasta, and mushrooms a natural companion, but kale or broccoli could also be wonderful in this recipe. This can be as homemade as you'd like, with homemade sauce and fresh-from-the-garden veggies (and even homemade pasta and cheese if you're so inclined), or can be thrown together quickly with store-bought sauce and frozen vegetables, making it a recipe suitable from everyone from the harried working mom to the hardcore foodie. It can also run the gamut from economical to truly luxurious, from family weekday dinner to special date night. Packed with nutrition and flavor, but adaptable to nearly any time frame, taste, or budget, this is a recipe that every (non-vegan) needs to keep in their back pocket.

Baked Pasta with Spinach and Mushrooms
adapted from The Fresh and Green Table
serves 4

Extra-virgin olive oil
4 cups homemade or purchased tomato sauce
Kosher salt
8 ounces dried (whole wheat) pasta of your choice (e.g. fusili, penne, cavatappi, rotini etc.)
8 ounces diced or shredded fresh mozzarella
3/4 cup coarsely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (or Parmesan) cheese
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or parsley or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or thyme (or a combination)
8 ounces fresh cremini mushrooms, sliced and sauteed in olive oil until shrunken and golden brown
4 to 5 ounces fresh spinach, blanched and thoroughly drained or sauteed in olive oil until wilted

1. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Brush a 3-quart shallow gratin or other baking dish with olive oil. Put the tomato sauce in a medium mixing bowl.

2. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and add 1 teaspoon salt. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente, or according to the package instructions. Before draining add 6 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water to the tomato sauce and whisk to thin the sauce slightly. Drain the pasta in a colander and transfer it to the bowl of sauce. Sprinkle it with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add the mozzarella, 6 tablespoons of the Parmigiano-Reggiano, the herbs, mushrooms, and spinach to the pasta and stir well.

3. Transfer the pasta mixture to the prepared baking dish, spreading it in an even layer. Top with the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano. Bake until brown and bubbly, about 20 minutes. Let cool for a minute or two and serve hot.

Shorty's Brown Rice

Last week I spiced up my rice with green beans and toasted pecans and now I present another option on that same theme from Susie Middleton's amazing new cookbook. Both recipes follow the same basic format (rice + vegetable + toasted nuts) and are equally delicious in very diverse ways. Whereas Chile Rice is reminiscent of Latin American and Mexican cuisine, this recipe rice calls up the flavors of Asia. The well-browned carrots and onions feel homey and hearty, but the ginger, garlic, and mint keep the dish fresh and bright. The toasted nuts make this hearty enough to be a light vegetarian main dish, but I served it with grilled chicken to make dinner feel complete for the carnivore that was my dining companion. (I had it sans meat for lunch the next two days.) I'm sometimes guilty of sometimes focusing more on the sides than the main event, so I especially love dishes like this that only leave me with cooking up a protein to complete a meal. After a few of Middleton's dishes in this vein, my imagination is running wild with ideas for my own grain + veggie + toasted nut side dishes (and hopefully yours is too).

Shorty's Brown Rice with Stir-Fried Carrots, Ginger, Mint, and Toasted Almonds
from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 4

1 cup short-grain brown rice
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons peanut or vegetable oil
1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1 1/2-inch long and 3/8- to 1/2-inch-wide sticks
1 small onion (about 5 ounces), halved and cut lengthwise into 3/8-inch-thick slices
Kosher salt
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces and kept chilled
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, cilantro, or a combination of the two
1/4 cup toasted almonds, chopped or slivered

1. Fill a pasta pot two-thirds full with water (at least 10 cups) and bring the water to a boil. Rinse the rich in a fine-mesh colander or strainer and add it to the boiling water. Stir once and boil for 30 minutes. Drain the rice in a colander, shaking it to remove excess water, and return the rice to the pot (off the heat). Cover with a tight-fitting lid and let sit for 10 to 15 minutes. (The rice will absorb the remaining moisture).

2. In a large nonstick stir-fry pan, heat the peanut oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot (it will loosen up), add the carrots, onion, and 1 teaspoon salt and stir well with tongs.

3. Cook, stirring only occasionally at first, and more frequently as the veggies begin to brown and the carrots are tender, 15 to 17 minutes. They will be somewhat firm but will have shrunk and become more pliable. (Don't be tempted to raise the heat; the carrots need to steam a bit before browning).

4. Lower the heat to low, add the ginger and garlic, and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove the pan from heat, add the butter, and toss gently until they melt and become creamy. Stir in the lime juice and immediately transfer the contents of the pan to the pot of rice and stir well. Season the rice with 1/2 teaspoon salt, add most of the fresh herbs and toasted almonds, and stir well. Serve garnished with the remaining herbs and almonds.

Chile Rice with Green Beans and Toasted Pecans

Although I like to cook with less common grains like bulgur and quinoa, sometimes it's nice to come back to good old rice. Rice is more or less just a canvas for other flavors, serving as the perfect sponge for the plethora of spices in this recipe. Don't let the name chile rice scare you off if you're generally spice averse - the chile used here is the flavorful, but mild, ancho chile, which is the dried form of the poblano (perhaps my favorite pepper). More than any recipe I've made recently, I wish I could somehow make this into a scratch and sniff blog. This smoky, sweet, and nutty notes all blend together to be so much more than the sum of their parts and fill the house with an irresistible aroma. The beautifully browned green beans and toasted pecans add more delicious nutty notes that are contrasted perfect by the fresh and citrusy cilantro and lime juice. Brown rice can be substituted for the white rice, but additional cooking time (and likely water or broth) will be required, though I think it's well through the extra investment. Substantial enough to be a light main course, this can be made heartier with grilled shrimp or chicken, or even black beans, which I found to be a surprising but delicious addition to my leftovers the next day. Another home run for Susie Middleton, I hope recipes like this one will teach more people to love veggies the way I do.

Chile Rice with Green Beans and Toasted Pecans
from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 4

1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground ancho chile
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Kosher salt
1 cup milk
3/4 cup water or lower-sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 cup long-grain white rice
1 pound medium green beans, trimmed and cut cross-wise into 1/2-inch-long pieces
1/2 cup chopped toasted pecans
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice, plus more if desired
1 1/2 teaspoons pure maple syrup
1/2 lime, cut into 4 wedges

1. In a small bowl, combine the cumin, coriander, ancho chile, paprika, cinnamon, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. In a liquid measure, combine the milk and water.

2. In a medium saucepan (that has a lid, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-low heat. When the butter has melted, add the onion and 1/4 teaspoon salt, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Uncover, raise the heat to medium, and continue to cook, stirring, until lightly browned, 7 to 8 minutes more. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the spice mixture and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add all the rice and about a quarter of the mixture and stir, mixing well and scraping all the spices from the bottom of the pan.

3. Add the remaining milk mixture and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to very low, cover tightly, and cook for 20 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, in a heavy nonstick medium skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium-high heat. When the butter has melted, add the green beans and 1/2 teaspoon salt. The pan will look full. (That's okay; the beans will steam and brown at the same time.) Cook, stirring only occasionally at first and more frequently as the beans begin to brown, until the green beans have shrunk somewhat, all have ab it of browning, and some are dark brown, 9 to 12 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and transfer the beans to a plate.

5. Remove the rice pot from the heat and place a folded paper towel under the lid. Let sit, covered, for 5 minutes. Uncover (the foam from the milk will be on top of the rice) and fluff and stir with a fork. Re-cover loosely with the lid (leaving the paper towel in place) and let sit for 5 minutes more. Uncover and transfer the rice to a medium bowl. Stir in all the beans, three-quarters of the toasted pecans, and three-quarters of the cilantro.

6. In a small cup, combine the lime juice and maple syrup. Pour the mixture over the rice, and stir to combine. Taste the rice and season withe more salt, if needed. You can also add a bit more lime, if you like. Divide the rice among four bowls and serve garnished with the remaining pecans, cilantro, and lime wedges.

Zesty Tomato-Ginger Bisque

Although you'd never believe it after these 90-degree-plus days recently, there was a day this past week where it was more than appropriate to have grilled cheese and tomato soup for dinner. My last culinary experiment with fancy grilled cheese and tomato soup got me excited to try more, perfectly coinciding with my new obsession with Susie Middleton's newest cookbook, The Fresh and Green Table.
And just as with her last cookbook, Fast, Fresh and Green (which I was also obsessed with), no recipe I've tried so far has been a disappointment (look forward to more posts!). Although still a basic enough tomato soup to please almost anyone, the fennel and leeks provide subtle layers of flavor to entertain the sophisticated culinary palate. The zippy ginger notes make this tomato soup feel exceptionally fresh and make it perfectly suited to the end of summer. As with so many soups, any time that leftovers spend in the fridge only serves to let the flavors mingle and transform, making any leftovers a new and delightful dining experience. A fantastic way to dress up an old favorite, this recipe, along with an ostentatious grilled cheese, is a delicious new approach to a classic meal.

Zesty Tomato-Ginger Bisque
adapted from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 4

2 tablespoons orange juice
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon tomato paste or sun-dried tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Two 28-ounce cans whole, peeled tomatoes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 medium or 4 small leeks, white and pale greens parts only, thoroughly washed and cut crosswise into thin slices (1 1/2 cups, about 5 1/2 ounces)
1 small fennel bulb, stemmed, quartered, and thinly sliced (1 1/2 cups)
Kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1/2 cup half-and-half (or heavy cream, for extra decadence)
Freshly ground pepper
24 to 28 Rustic Croutons (see cookbook for recipe) or crusty bread, optional

1. In a small bowl, combine the orange juice, honey, tomato paste and balsamic vinegar. Set aisde.

2. Empty the contents of both tomato cans into a mixing bowl. Gently break up the tomatoes into smaller pieces with your hands (effective but messy!) or a pair of scissors. Add 1 cup water to the tomatoes and set aside.

3. In a large Dutch oven or other wide saucepan, heat the olive oil and butter over medium-low heat. Add the leeks, fennel, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Uncover, raise the heat to medium, and continue cooking, stirring frequently and scraping any browned bits off the bottom of the pan, until the vegetables are all browned in spots and the bottom of the pan is browning a lot, another 8 to 10 minutes.

4. Add the coriander and stir well. Add the ginger and garlic, and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the orange juice-tomato paste mixture and the tomatoes and stir well to incorporate. Bring the soup t a boil and immediately reduce to a gently simmer. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 17 to 18 minutes. (You will notice that the soup has reduced a bit). Remove the pan from heat and let the soup cool for 15 to 20 minutes.

5. In a blender, puree the soup in three batches, filling the jar only about halfway or just a little more and partially covering the lid with a folded dish towel (leaving a vent uncovered to let out steam) to prevent hot soup from splashing you. In a large mixing bowl, combine the three batches and then return the soup to the (rinsed) pot. Whisk in the half-and-half. Taste the soup for seasoning and add more salt or pepper, if needed.

6. Reheat the soup very gently. Serve hot, garnished with the croutons.

Fresh Pineapple Upside-Down Cake

Although he insists every year that he doesn't need one, there's no way I could let my husband go without a homemade birthday cake. Perhaps the motivations are a bit selfish because I love baking (and eating!), but more than anything I love seeing him enjoying a special treat. Although I'm happy to make any dessert he chooses, I am glad he has had the good taste to choose a dessert as wonderful as pineapple upside down cake for the past three years. I do love a nostalgia dessert, but this cake certainly deserves the upgrade to fresh pineapple from the canned pineapple and maraschino cherries of 1950s dinner parties. Sweet-tart pineapple is so beautifully accented by decadent caramel and dense cake that it's no wonder this recipe has endured for so long. A fitting celebration for a late summer birthday or a delicious treat any time of year, pineapple upside-down cake is a dessert you just can't pass on.

Fresh Pineapple Upside-Down Cake 
from Food and Wine
serves 8

1 ripe medium pineapple
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 stick plus 3 tablespoons (5 1/2 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
2 tablespoons Cognac or other brandy
2/3 cup light brown sugar
9 fresh cherries, pitted (optional)
Vanilla ice cream, for serving

1. Using a sharp knife, peel the pineapple and remove the eyes. Halve the pineapple lengthwise and cut out the center core. Cut each half crosswise into five 2/3-inch-thick semicircles. Cut one of the semicircles into 3 pieces.

2. Preheat the oven to 375°. In a small bowl, stir together the flour and baking powder. In a medium bowl, beat 1 stick of the butter until pale and creamy. Gradually beat the granulated sugar into the butter until the mixture is fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Stir in the flour mixture in 3 batches just until smooth. Stir in the Cognac and set aside.

3. Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter in a 9-inch cast-iron skillet; if the handle isn't ovenproof, wrap it in foil. Stir in the brown sugar and cook over moderate heat until melted and bubbling, about 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Arrange the 9 pineapple semicircles in a tight concentric ring in the skillet and fit the 3 small pieces in the center. Cook over moderately high heat for 10 minutes. Turn the pineapple slices and lower the heat so that the mixture simmer vigorously. Cook until the fruit is tender when pierced, about 10 minutes longer. Insert a cherry in the hollow of each semicircle.

4. Remove the skillet from the heat and spread the cake batter evenly over the hot pineapple; it may not completely cover the fruit, but it will spread as it cooks. Bake in the middle of the oven for about 20 minutes, or until the cake springs back when pressed. Let it cool for 10 minutes, then invert the cake onto a large platter. Serve the cake warm with vanilla ice cream.

Tomatillo and Lime Jam

It's a shame that I didn't discover tomatillos until well into adulthood, because they've now become one of my favorite ingredients. I'm not sure if they were just an impulse buy at the farmers' market or I picked them up because of a Rick Bayless recipe that I wanted to try, but they now make regular appearances at my house when in season. It seems like I've made nearly every iteration of tomatillo salsa out there, so when I saw this recipe on Pati's Mexican Table on PBS one Saturday morning, I immediately put it on my culinary to-do list. Different than anything I've ever made with tomatillos before, this jam preserves the flavor of tomatillos for weeks in this sweet and spicy accent for myriad foods. I found the original recipe, which used 1 1/2 cups sugar, a bit too sweet for my taste, so I scaled back the sugar and added a spicy kick with a bit of jalapeno. This jam makes a wonderfully unexpected condiment for sandwiches, can be transformed into a delicious glaze for meats, or even just used for an adventurous piece of toast.

Tomatillo and Lime Jam
adapted from Pati's Mexican Table
makes about 1 1/4 cups

1 lb tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed and roughly chopped
1 to 1 1/2 cups sugar
1 cup water
4 tbsp fresh squeezed lime juice
Rind of a lime, whole or chopped 
Finely minced jalapeno or serrano pepper, to taste (optional)
A pinch of salt
 

1. Place all of the ingredients into a saucepan set over medium heat.  Let them come to a simmer and stir occasionally, letting them cook until it has thickened and achieved a soft and loose jam consistency, about 35 to 40 minutes. 

2. Don't wait until it has thickened too much, because it thickens considerably as it cools.  Once it has cooled down, pour it into a container, cover tightly and refrigerate.

Summer Squash and Red Quinoa Salad with Walnuts

Sometimes two of the defining characteristics of my personality will be at odds with each other - my love of a good deal, and my passion for fancy food and ingredients. This recipe, along with being healthy, is the perfect reconciliation of those often conflicting traits. Zucchini and summer squash are abundant and inexpensive this time of year, but I get to dress it up with excellent Sherry vinegar and top-notch Parmesan, turning an economical blank canvas vegetable into a vibrantly flavored dish. An abundance of fresh herbs gives a burst of freshness, walnuts lend richness and crunch, lemon juice and Sherry vinegar a subtle piquant accent, with a bed of quinoa providing enough heft to make this into a light, but satisfying, meal. Although I went with the original combination of quinoa and walnuts, there are myriad other combinations of grains (barley, rice, etc.) and seeds or nuts (almonds, pecans, pepitas, etc.) that would make wonderful substitutions. Different herbs and vinegars allow you to further personalize this recipe to your personal taste and what's currently available, the perfect kind of recipe for using up odds and ends in the pantry and fridge or creating a dish to honor any one of these ingredients. Whether you follow this to the letter or use it as a template, this recipe can surely find a way to satisfying your culinary needs in these last summer days.

Summer Squash and Red Quinoa Salad with Walnuts
adapted from Bon Appetit, August 2012

1 cup red or other quinoa, rinsed in a fine-mesh sieve, drained
2 teaspoons kosher salt plus more for seasoning
1 pound assorted summer squash
2 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan plus 1/4 cup shaved with a peeler
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted
1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, torn

1. Cook quinoa according to package instructions

2. Cut squash into 1/8"-thick slices, some lengthwise and some crosswise. Transfer to a large bowl, season with 2 teaspoons salt, and toss to coat. Let sit until slightly wilted, about 15 minutes. Rinse under cold water and drain well. Pat dry with paper towels.

3. Whisk grated Parmesan, zest, juice, and vinegar in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in oil. Season dressing with salt and pepper.

4. Combine squash, quinoa, parsley, walnuts, and basil in a large bowl. Pour dressing over; toss to coat. Garnish with shaved Parmesan.