Seared Salmon with Spinach and Creamy Roasted Peppers

As soon as poblano peppers appear at the farmers' market, I get renew my obsession with Mexican food. I'm not talking nachos, tacos, quesadillas and the like, but the authentic Mexican food that abuelas have been cooking for generations. And if you're looking for real Mexican recipes, look no further than the pantheon of Mexican cuisine that is Rick Bayless. (For the record, Diana Kennedy is an impeccable resource as well). I've never made a Rick Bayless dish that I didn't think was not only good, but exceptional, and this recipe most certainly does not break that pattern. Although salmon isn't a protein that you'd typically think of in Mexican cuisine, the traditional flavors of Mexico are certainly at home with salmon. Beautifully smoky and spicy roasted poblano chiles are joined by fresh spinach in a bright, yet creamy, sauce that complements the rich and fatty salmon without overpowering it. Though you only use a small amount, the masa harina adds a hint of sweetness, freshness, and texture that is absolutely vital to making the sauce its best. I suggest roasted potatoes for scooping up all the extra sauce because you won't want to leave a bit on the plate. A less-than-typical way of enjoying both Mexican food and salmon, this recipe is a must-try for anyone looking to expand their Mexican food repertoire.


Seared Salmon with Spinach and Creamy Roasted Peppers
from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless
serves 4

2 fresh poblano chiles
10 ounces cleaned spinach (about 10 cups)
3 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
3 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
1 to 2 tablespoons masa harina (Mexican corn "flour" for making tortillas - look for it in well-stocked groceries)
1 1/2 cups milk, plus a little more if needed
Four 4- to 5-ounce (1 to 1 1/4 pounds total) skinless salmon fillets (snapper, halibut and catfish are also good here)
Salt and ground black pepper

1. Roast the poblanos over an open flame or 4 inches below a broiler, turning regularly until blistered and blackened all over, about 5 minutes for an open flame, 10 minutes for the broiler. Palce in a bowl, cover with a kitchen towel and let cool until handleable.

2. Place the spianch in a microwaveable bowl, cover it with plastic wrap, poke a few holes in the top and microwave on high (100%) until completely wilted, usually about 2 minutes. (If your spinach comes in a microwaveable bag, simply microwave in the bag). Uncover (or open the bag) and set aside.

3. Turn the oven on to its lowest setting. Heat the oil in a very large (12-inch) skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium. Add the garlic and cook, stirring regularly, until soft and lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, scoop the garlic into a blender. Set the skillet aside.

4. Rub the blackened skin off the chiles and pull out the stems and seed pods. Rinse the chiles to remove bits of skin and seeds. Roughly chop and add to the blender, along with the masa harina and milk. Blend until smooth.

5. Return the skillet to medium-high heat. Sprinkle both sides of the fish liberally with salt and pepper. Lay the fillets in the hot oil and cook until richly browned, about 2 to 3 minutes. Use a spatula to flip the fillets, and cook until the fish barely flakes when pressed firmly with a finger or the back of a spoon (you want it slightly underdone), usually a couple of minutes longer for dish that's about 1 inch thick. Using the spatula, transfer the fish to an ovenproof plate and set it in the oven.

6. With the skillet still over medium-high, pour the poblano mixture and whisk until it comes to a boil and thickens, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes to blend the flavors. If the sauce has thickened past the consistency of a cream soup, pour in a little more milk. Taste and season with salt, usually a generous 1/2 teaspoon. Add the spinach to the sauce and stir until it is warm and well coated with sauce.

7. Divide the creamy spinach among four plates. Top each portion with a piece of seared fish. (Or, if it seems more appealing to you, spoon the sauce over the fillets.) Serve without delay.

Grilled Zucchini, Corn, and Cherry Tomato Pizza

Everything is better on the grill. Nearly every Sunday night, weather permitting, I'll roll out the Weber and grill up something for dinner. Meat is usually the focus of my grilling endeavor (though I almost always grill corn-on-the-cob as well), but I like to make the most of the dying embers and grill vegetables for use later in the week. I most recently put some of those vegetables to good use in this light and delicious summer pizza. Zucchini, an ordinarily a fairly dull vegetable, comes to life after some time on the grill, beautifully complemented by sweet, charred corn and cherry tomatoes, all mingling under a light blanket of cheese. Although a divine bite of summer just as is, this pizza could also be dressed up for the carnivores with a bit of cooked, crumbled bacon. This particular combination of vegetables was inspired both the gods of culinary creativity and a bit by convenience, but I can imagine myriad combinations of grilled vegetables that would be just as welcome at the dinner table. So use those fading coals to make the most of your summer vegetables and whip up some quick and healthy pizzas of your own!

Grilled Zucchini, Corn, and Cherry Tomato Pizza
serves 3 to 4 as a light main course or 6 to 8 as an appetizer

3 whole grain individual pizza crusts, pitas, flatbreads, or roti (I used Stonefire Whole Grain Tandoori Roti)
3/4 cup pizza sauce, purchased or homemade
3-4 ounces grilled or roasted zucchini
3/4 cup roasted corn (from 2 ears)
9 cherry tomatoes (about 3-4 ounces)
6 fresh basil leaves, thinly sliced
3 ounces shredded or thinly sliced fresh mozzarella cheese (about 3/4 cup)

1. Preheat an oven to 450 degrees F.

2. Spread 1/4 cup pizza sauce on each roti. Top each with 1/3 of the zucchini, corn, and cherry tomatoes and sprinkle the fresh basil over the top. Top each with 1/3 of cheese.

3. Bake until cheese is melted and just starting to brown, about 8 to 12 minutes. Allow to rest briefly, slice each into 4 pieces, and enjoy warm.

Pad See-Ew

One of the culinary bright spots while I was living in Ames for graduate school was the Pad See Ew at Thai Kitchen. Although the food scene in Madison is far superior to that in Ames, I have yet to find a Pad See Ew that I like as much as that one. Perhaps it was in part because I was usually eating lunch with Heather, one of the greatest people I know, but that dish still holds a soft spot in my heart. I was recently inspired to try and make it myself after going down a culinary rabbit hole of unknown origin, starting with this recipe from Serious Eats. Although nothing can compare to a dish made in a well-seasoned wok with years of flavor, this dish has much of the flavor I remember, my only regret being I had to substitute pad thai noodles for flat rice noodles. Oyster or fish sauce imbues the dish with umami, blending beautifully with chewy rice noodles, rich eggs, and fresh, crisp broccoli. It takes less time to make this meal than order delivery, is much healthier, and is at its best flavor and texture fresh from the wok so I know this is destined to make many more appearances for dinner. I look forward to tweaking and perfecting this recipe even further and someday getting to cook it for an old friend.

Pad See-Ew
adapted from Serious Eats
serves 4

4 ounces boneless chicken, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 tablespoons oyster sauce or fish sauce
4 teaspoons light soy sauce, divided
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons rice vinegar
1 garlic clove, minced
Vegetable oil
8 ounces flat rice noodles or pad thai noodles
2 cups broccoli florets, sliced
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons sweet dark soy sauce
Procedures

1.In a medium-sized bowl, toss the chicken with 2 teaspoons of soy sauce and the baking soda. Set aside.

2. In a second medium-sized bowl, whisk together the oyster sauce, 2 teaspoons soy sauce, sugar, rice vinegar, and garlic clove.

3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the rice noodles and cook according to the directions on the packaging. When done, remove noodles with a pair of tongs and drain in a colander. Toss with a tablespoon of oil so the noodles don't stick together.

4. Place the pot back over high heat and return to a boil. Place the marinated chicken in a large strainer and dip into the water. Cook until the chicken looks white. When done set the chicken aside in a large bowl.

5. Pour enough oil into a large work to just coat the bottom and turn heat to high. When just starting to smoke, add the broccoli. Stir-fry until broccoli turns bright green and becomes tender. Transfer broccoli to the large bowl and set aside.

6. Carefully rinse out the wok and then dry it. Pour in two tablespoons of oil, and turn heat to high. When just starting to smoke, crack in the eggs. Using a wooden spoon, scramble the eggs. When set, add the noodles. Toss well to separate the strands, and then let them cook for a minute.

7. Drizzle on the sweet soy sauce, toss well, and then let cook undisturbed until the noodles start to brown, about one minute. Add the broccoli and chicken back to the pan. Toss well. When everything is warm, pour in sauce. Stir fry until everything is coated. Turn off the heat and serve immediately.

Tuscan Kale with Maple, Ginger, and Pancetta

Kale is sneakily becoming one of my favorite vegetables. I love it prepared almost any way, from crispy roasted kale chips to tender sauteed kale, but my husband isn't quite the enthusiast that I am. Because I want him to love it as much as I do, I turned to one of my favorite cookbooks, Fast, Fresh, and Green by Susie Middleton, for help. I've never eaten a single thing from her cookbook I haven't adored, and she scores another home run with this recipe. It doesn't take a culinary mastermind to figure out that adding bacon or pancetta makes almost anything more delicious, but her deft hand with flavors expertly balances the fatty, salty pancetta with fresh ginger and sweet maple syrup without burying the flavor of the kale. The true sign of success was my husband saying that this is his favorite way he's ever had kale, so I know this recipe will remained bookmarked for a return visit. If you're trying to introduce yourself or someone else to hearty greens, start with this simple, flavorful recipe - if you don't like kale prepared this way, you probably never will.


Tuscan Kale with Maple, Ginger, and Pancetta
adapted from Fast, Fresh, and Green by Susie Middleton
serves 2

Kosher salt
1 bunch (8 to 9 oz) Tuscan Kale (a.k.a. cavalo nero or black kale)
1 oz very thinly sliced pancetta (3 or 4 slices) or bacon
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh ginger
1 teaspoon pure maple syrup
2 small lemon wedges

1. Fill a wine 4- to 5-qt pot 2/3 full of water. Add 2 teaspoons salt and bring to a boil. Remove the ribs from the kale. Grab the rib with one hand and rip the two leafy sides away from it with the other. Cut or rip the leaves into two or three smaller pieces. You'll have about 4 oz of greens. Add the greens to the boiling water and start timing immediately. Taste a leaf after 4 minutes. It shouldn't be tough or rubbery. If it is, cook for 1 to 2 minutes more. Drain the kale very thoroughly in a strainer in the sink. Press down on the kale to squeeze out some excess liquid.

2. Put a medium (9- to 10inch) nonstick skillet over medium-low heat and arrange the pancetta slices in the pan. Cook the pancetta until crisp and lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes, flipping once or twice. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Add the butter to the pan, and as soon as it melts, add the ginger and stir to soften in slightly in the butter, about 30 seconds. Remove the pan from the heat and add the maple syrup. Stir well.

3. Life the kale from the strainer, squeezing one more time to release excess moisture, and add to the pan with the maple-ginger butter. Put the pan back over medium-low heat and toss the greens until well-coated and slightly warmed, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat, taste, and season very lightly with salt. Crumble the pancetta over the greens. Toss briefly to mix and transfer to a serving platter. Alternatively, transfer the greens to individual plates and crumble the pancetta over the top. Serve with the lemon wedges.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara di Zucchine

When it comes to eating healthy on a budget, you can't beat zucchini. Farmers are practically giving them away at the market, all the way the tender baby summer squash for sauteeing to the behemoths that only have a future in zucchini bread. Because I like to try as many different vegetables as I can from the market, I decided that I needed to make something with zucchini when the bumper crop first started piling up. I've made plenty of zucchini breads and muffins in the past, but this time I was in the mood for something decidedly more savory, like this wonderful pasta.

This is the perfect Monday night dinner in my book-vegetarian, quick to prepare, and full of whole grains and veggies without being boring. Though it may be tempting to try and get the most for your money by purchasing the biggest zucchini you can find, in recipes like this one where the zucchini flavor is right at the forefront, only use small or medium zucchini for the best flavor. The whole grain pasta goes perfectly with savory cheese and eggs, the freshness of the zucchini cutting through the fat just enough to keep the dish light. I'm not going to lie and say this is the same as true spaghetti alla carbonara, but it is a delicious meal that can be served happily to vegetarians and meat-eaters alike. If you'd like to gild the lily a bit and come closer to the original dish, start by frying some bacon, cool and crumble it, and substitute some of the olive oil with rendered bacon fat. While on the subject of olive oil, in this recipe I'd opt for a decent olive oil, since it will be a significant contribution to the flavor palate, but certainly not your best since you'll be cooking with it. If you are adding bacon and cooking with the fat, the flavor of the pork fat will go a long way towards masking a less than stellar olive oil. And if you'd like to go whole hog with indulgence, you could could use a combination of bacon fat and butter in lieu of the olive oil, also a valid option if you're trying to feed someone who doesn't like the flavor of olive oil. The next time you're faced with a bounty of zucchini and looking to venture beyond zucchini bread, give this savory option a try. Light, fresh, and flavorful, it definitely deserves a place at your summer table.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara di Zucchine
from Bon Appetit
serves 4

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled
1 pound medium zucchini, trimmed, cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds (about 3 1/2 cups)
2 large eggs, room temperature
3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 2 1/2 ounces)
12 ounces whole wheat spaghetti
6 large fresh basil leaves, torn into pieces, divided

1. Heat oil in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and sauté until pale golden, about 1 minute. Add zucchini and sauté until beginning to color, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat; discard garlic.

2. Meanwhile, whisk eggs and Parmesan in large bowl to blend. Cook pasta in large pot of boiling salted water until just tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Drain pasta; add to egg mixture and toss to coat (heat from pasta will cook eggs).

3. Add zucchini mixture and half of basil to pasta; stir gently to blend. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with remaining basil and serve.

Tofu and Broccoli Stir Fry

A lot of people automatically turn up their noses at the mention of tofu, but I'm definitely not one of them. Many people are a little wary of the somewhat gelatinous texture, I absolutely love the contrast between the brown and chewy outside and tender middle of stir-fried or baked tofu. Its inherent flavor isn't something that I go crazy for (though it doesn't turn me off either), but tofu is a great blank canvas for almost any ingredient, especially Asian flavors. Another advantage of tofu? No advanced planning required to make sure its thawed when it comes time to make dinner.

On Monday nights, I'm often trying to make up some ground after the vices I indulged in over the weekend, leading to a lot of vegetarian meals with eggs, beans, or tofu as the protein hitting the dinner plate. This simple, but flavorful stir-fry is a great way to atone for the dietary sins of the weekend, filled with vegetables and lean protein glazed with spicy sweet and sour sauce and topped by the salty crunch of toasted cashews. Fresh broccoli is by far your top choice here, creating the best contrast in both flavor and texture, but even frozen broccoli will do in a pinch (and won't require the blanching step). If tofu just isn't your thing, this recipe will also work perfectly with chicken, or broccoli all on its own. I served this stir-fry over brown rice, but it would also be great over rice or soba noodles, or even whole wheat spaghetti or linguine. The next time you're reaching for the take-out menus, try this quick stir-fry instead-it'll make it to the dinner table faster than delivery and leave you feeling much better after.


Tofu and Broccoli Stir Fry
from Martha Stewart Everyday Food
serves 4

1 package (14 1/2 ounces) firm tofu, drained, cut crosswise into 6 slabs (about 3/4 inch wide), each slab halved horizontally and cut into triangles
1 1/2 pounds broccoli, stalks trimmed, peeled, and cut into 1/4-inch rounds, florets separated into bite-size pieces
Coarse salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/4 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/2 cup cashews, toasted

1. Arrange tofu in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with several layers of paper towels. Top with more paper towels and another baking sheet; weight with canned goods. Let tofu drain, about 20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, cook broccoli (stalks and florets) in a large pot of boiling salted water until bright green, 2 minutes. Drain; set aside.

3. Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add tofu; cook until golden brown, turning gently halfway through, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to paper towels.

4.  Meanwhile, make sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together soy sauce, vinegar, red-pepper flakes, garlic, cornstarch, and 3/4 cup water; set aside.

5. Add broccoli to skillet; cook over high heat, stirring often, until crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk reserved sauce to combine; pour into pan. Return tofu to pan; stir to coat, about 1 minute more. Serve topped with cashews.

New Potato Salad with Fresh Peas, Lime, and Yogurt

When I made Potato Salad with Green Beans and Salsa Verde on the 4th of July, after we finished eating, my husband asked if I'd considered making a creamy potato salad before I chose that recipe. He's much more of a traditionalist that I am (some might say a bit unadventurous), and although he'll general choose simple foods when ordering at a restaurant, he'll indulge me when I serve less-than-traditional meals, often making unexpectedly delicious discoveries. This recipe is a great example of how to toe the line between between traditional and adventurous and healthy and indulgent. The dressing has all the wonderful creaminess of a traditional potato salad, lightened up with Greek yogurt or sour cream whose tanginess magnifies the freshness of the peas, mint, and scallions. Like in Potato Salad with Green Beans and Salsa Verde, I love potato salad that also has vegetables, not only because it makes it healthier, but because it condenses the starch and vegetables side dishes into one. If your dining companions aren't quite ready for lime and/or mint in their potato salad, feel free to substitute lemon juice or vinegar and parsley or chives or whatever acid and herbs strike your fancy. Whether you're looking to lighten up cook-out fare or simply branch out a bit from tradition, this dish definitely deserves a place at your summer table.

New Potato Salad with Fresh Peas, Lime, and Yogurt
adapted from Fast, Fresh, and Green by Susie Middleton
serves 4

1 lb baby Yukon Gold potatoes or new potatoes
2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more if needed
1 lb fresh peas in the pod, shelled, yielding 1 cup peas (frozen are okay too)
1/3 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup thick Greek-style yogurt (whole or 2%) or sour cream
1 teaspoon loosely packed finely grated lime zest (from about 1 lime)
1/2 teaspoon fresh lime juice
1/4 cup sliced scallions
3 tbsp thinly sliced fresh mint leaves
Freshly ground black pepper

1. Put the potatoes and 2 teaspoons of the salt in a large saucepan and cover with plenty of water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until almost tender, about 10 minutes. Add the peas and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more. Drain the potatoes and peas carefully in a colander and rinse them gently with cool water for a few minutes. Spread the potatoes and peas out on a small rimmed sheet pan and refrigerate for 20 minutes to cool.

2. Meanwhile, whisk the mayonnaise, yogurt or sour cream, lime zest, and lime juice in a medium mixing bowl. Add the cooled potatoes and peas, the scallions, 2 tablespoons of the mint, the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and several grinds of black pepper. Mix gently but thoroughly with a silicone spatula. Taste and add a little more salt, if desired. Garnish with the remaining 1 tablespoon mint.