Salmon in Luxurious Green Sesame Pipian

Oh, Rick Bayless, can you do no wrong? In addition to being consistently delicious, my favorite thing about recipes from Rick Bayless is how they make me rethink what Mexican food is, perpetually discovering new and delicious flavor combinations as well as making uncovering new ways to use favorite ingredients. I'll confess I'm no master seafood chef, but this has to be the most delicious dish I've ever made with salmon, with the added bonus of being really easy and quick to prepare. The combination of the creamy tahini and spicy tomatillo salsa is unexpectedly delicious, perfectly contrasted by the bright and fresh flavor from the cilantro and peas. The flavor of the salmon is strong enough not to disappear in this vibrantly-flavored dish, staying irresistably moist and succulent while simmering in the sauce. Served over a bed of brown rice or other grain, this is a complete, sneakily nutritious meal that could as easily be served at a dinner party as on a busy weeknight. Any fan of Mexican food or fish would be greatly remiss if they didn't give this at least give it once chance to grace their dinner table; if you are one of that legion, go forth and try a new recipe under the wise (cookbook) tutelage of the inimitable Rick Bayless.

Salmon in Luxurious Green Sesame Pipian

from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless
serves 4

2 cups store-bought or homemade tomatillo salsa
1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
1 cup chicken broth
3 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste)
Salt
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 heaping cup peas, fresh or frozen
Four 4- to 5-ounce (1 to 1 1/4 pounds total) skinless fish fillets (such as salmon, halibut, walleye, snapper or striped bass)-buy about 1 1/2 pounds if using fish steaks
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, for garnish
About 1/4 cup (loosely packed) chopped cilantro, for garnish

1. In a blender or food processor, process the salsa to a smooth purée.

2. Heat oil in a very large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high. When it is quite hot, add salsa all at once. Stir as salsa reduces to consistency of tomato paste, about 5 minutes.

3. Stir in broth and tahini. Return to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and let simmer 10 minutes. Taste and season with salt, usually about 1/2 teaspoon, and a little sugar. (The sugar will help balance the natural tartness of the salsa). 

4. While sauce is simmering, pour the peas into a microwaveable bowl, sprinkle on a tablespoon of the water, cover with plastic wrap and poke a couple of holes in the top. Microwave on high (100%) until the peas are hot and tender, anywhere from 1 minute from frozen peas to 4 or 5 minutes for fresh peas; discard water.

5. When the sauce has simmered for 10 minutes, nestle the fish fillets in it, completely submerging them. Continue simmering gently until the fish flakes when pressed firmly, usually 5 to 6 minutes for 1/2-inch-thick fillets. (Check it by lifting up a fillet on a metal spatula and pressing with your finger or the back of a spoon.)

6. Transfer a fish fillet to each dinner plate. Spoon a portion of the sauce over top. Strew with the peas, sesame seeds and cilantro, and you're ready for dinner.

Whole Wheat Flax Pancakes

Two of my favorite rituals when I was a kid were Saturday morning pancakes or waffles and breakfast for dinner. As an adult, these still feel like special events and with football season over (for Packer fans), I'm switching out my weekly Packer snack for breakfast for dinner on Sunday nights. I love ritual and routine, so having this to look forward to goes a long way toward ameliorating the dread of returning to work Monday morning that so often creeps in on Sunday night. Since I've probably gorged myself on a meal out during the weekend, I want my breakfast for dinner to be at least somewhat healthy (most of the time), and that's where these whole wheat flax pancakes come in. Much more flavorful and hearty than their white flour counterparts, these nutty pancakes are the perfect companion to a healthy pat of butter and generous drizzling of maple syrup (and a side of bacon or sausage doesn't hurt either). If you've cooked up a batch of bacon before starting the pancakes, fry the pancakes in the bacon grease for extra crispy edges and just a bit of smoky flavor. Homemade pancakes take just a little more time than the just-add-water-mix kind, so next time the craving hits, whip up a batch of these pancakes instead and reward your efforts with flavor and nutrition.

Whole Wheat Flax Pancakes
makes about 12 pancakes
adapted from King Arthur Flour

1 1/2 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1/3 cup dried buttermilk powder*
2 tablespoons brown sugar, maple sugar, maple syrup, or honey
1/3 cup whole flax meal
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons vegetable oil or melted butter
1 1/2 cups water*
*Or substitute 1 3/4 cups (14 ounces) of buttermilk in place of the buttermilk powder and water

1. Mix the dry ingredients in a large bowl.

2. Whisk together the eggs, oil or melted butter, vanilla, and water (and honey or maple syrup, if using).

3. Add the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients, and whisk until blended. Let the batter sit for 10 minutes (it will thicken slightly). Add extra water or flour to adjust the consistency for thinner or thicker pancakes.

4. Preheat a griddle to medium high (350°F), and grease it well.

5. Scoop the batter by the 1/4-cupful onto the griddle.

6. Cook until bubbles on the top begin to pop, then turn and brown the other side.

7. Serve hot with maple syrup, or fresh fruit and yogurt.

Cauliflower Penne Puttanesca

Roasted cauliflower is one of my favorite foods. Left to my own devices, I can eat an entire head of roasted cauliflower all by myself, particularly if it's dijon-roasted cauliflower, that beautiful caramelization a siren song for my tastebuds. Quite some time ago I made much-loved roasted cauliflower pasta, so when I saw this recipe in the most recent issue of Real Simple magazine it seemed like the perfect way to use the head of broccoli romanesco (Roman cauliflower) I picked up at the farmer's market, with the added bonus of the rest of the ingredients being things I already had at home. Since puttanesca sauce is so simple, this is a place to splurge a bit on the tomatoes (get San Marzano if you can find them) to maximize flavor. To make the cauliflower shine, cut the florets so they each have one flat side, placing the florets cut-side down in the skillet and allowing them to cook undisturbed for a few minutes initially to ensure a delicious crust on the cauliflower. With subtle hints of heat from the red pepper and pops of pickled capers, this hearty bowl of pasta is an irresistably hearty vegetarian dinner, made even more vibrant with a generous dusting of fresh parsley and salty Parmesan cheese. If you're looking for a new vegetarian pasta for your winter dinner repertoire, look no further than this simple, satisfying dish.

Cauliflower Penne Puttanesca
adapted from Real Simple, February 2012
serves 4

3/4 pound whole wheat penne or other short pasta
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 small head cauliflower or broccoli romanesco (about 1 1/2 pounds), cored and cut into small florets
Kosher salt and black pepper
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes
1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives, chopped
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Grated Parmesan, for serving (optional)

1. Cook the past according to the package directions. Drain and return to pot.

2. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cauliflower, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Cook, tossing occasionally, until golden, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and their juice, olives, capers, and crushed red pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally and breaking up the tomatoes with a spoon until the cauliflower is tender, 8 to 10 minutes more.

3. Toss the pasta with the sauce. Serve topped with the parsley and Parmesan.

Grilled Glazed Salmon

Although this is most certainly not the prettiest dish I've put together, I'm setting aside my vanity to share this simple and delicious meal. There's always a bag of salmon fillets in the freezer, but I find myself resorting to roasted salmon with Old Bay when I'm sort on time, inspiration, or ingredients. Using a combination of three staple ingredients I adore-mustard, horseradish, and honey-this recipe transforms what could be a pretty mundane salmon fillet into a wonderfully flavorful dinner. The assertive flavors of the Dijon mustard and horseradish are tempered just enough by the sweet and mellow honey (I recommend a milder honey like clover here), blending three common ingredients into a bold, but balanced palate of flavor. This glaze is strong enough to overwhelm a mild fish like tilapia, but the richness of the salmon holds its own against the assertive flavors. Served on a bed of whole wheat couscous with side of simply roasted Brussels Sprouts, this well-rounded and hearty meal is makes it quickly from the kitchen to the dinner table any night of the week. A basic, but delicious recipe, this is sure to make frequent appearances on my dinner table, helping me to keep my resolution of eating fish at least once per week.

Grilled Glazed Salmon
from Food and Wine
serves 4

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 
1/4 cup prepared horseradish, drained

2 tablespoons honey 
Four 6-ounce skinless salmon fillets 
Vegetable oil, for rubbing 
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Light a grill. In a small bowl, mix the mustard, horseradish and honey. Rub the salmon with oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the salmon over moderate heat, skinned side down, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Turn and grill for 3 minutes longer, until the salmon is almost cooked through. Turn the salmon again and spread each fillet with 1 tablespoon of the horseradish glaze. Turn and grill until glazed, about 30 seconds. Serve the remaining glaze on the side. 

Whole Wheat Currant Scones

Although many scones have nearly turned into cookies these days, I'm a fan of the traditional, not-too-sweet variety. Creative flavors abound, which I both purchase and bake, but sometimes it's nice to go back to classics, the most traditional scones being currant scones. The simple flavor profile created by cream, butter, and currants is delicious, but the white flour traditionally used to make scones doesn't bring anything to the party in terms of nutrition or flavor, so I seek out scone recipes using whole grain flours. Whole wheat pastry flour gives these scones a wonderfully nutty flavor and light texture, a perfect contrast to sweet and chewy raisins or currants. And while cream lends an irresistible richness and decadence to scones, for pastries I plan on having for a regular weekday breakfast, I prefer the lightness and tang of buttermilk. Currants work best in this recipe, distributing tiny bits of flavor throughout the scone, but raisins or any other dried fruit you like (I recommend dried cherries or blueberries) will also work splendidly.

The next Saturday or Sunday morning you can have a little extra time, whip up a batch of these simple, flavorful scones and reward yourself with a hot breakfast fresh from the oven. If you don't have to share with too many people pop any leftovers in the freezer so you can treat yourself with a tasty breakfast any day of the week.

Whole Wheat Currant Scones
adapted from Bob's Red Mill
makes 8 scones

1 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 cup toasted wheat germ
1/3 cup turbinado sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2  teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2  teaspoon sea salt
1/2 cup cold butter
1 large egg
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/2 cup currants or raisins

1. Preheat oven to 375°. Use an ungreased 10" x 15" baking pan.

2. In a bowl, combine whole wheat flour, wheat germ, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. With 2 knives or a pastry blender, cut in butter until coarse crumbs form.

3. In a small bowl, beat egg with buttermilk to blend. Add egg mixture and raisins to flour mixture; stir just enough to moisten evenly. Scrape dough onto baking pan; pat into a 1" thick round. With a sharp knife, cut round into 8 wedges, leave in place.

4. Bake 30-35 minutes until browned. Cut or break scones into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature.

Sesame Sweet Potato and Cabbage Burgers

Although making Mushroom Pecan Burgers was born out of necessity (I had ingredients that needed to be used up), it has definitely rekindled my love of making veggie burgers. My primary resource for veggie burger recipes is Veggie Burgers Every Which Way by Lukas Volger, but instead of going straight to the book, I decided to peruse Lukas Volger's website, stumbling across this little gem of a recipe in short order. I can't recall having cabbage and sweet potatoes together in a dish many times before, but I was quite delighted by the pairing in this burger, particularly when punctuated with spice from cayenne (which I used generously). The sweetness of the sweet potatoes marries wonderfully with fresh and mild green cabbage, with the soy sauce or tamari lending umami and the tahini a decadent richeness. The one almost-fault of this recipe that I found was that I did need to add significantly more than 1/4 cup of breadcrumbs, although the recipe acknowledges that this might be necessary. When browning the burgers, make sure to oil the pan generously, as sweet potatoes have a tendency to stick to the pan. If they do fall apart, don't fret, just smoosh them back together and call them rustic, a tactic I frequently employ when dishes don't turn out quite as picturesque as I had imagined.

With my love of veggie burgers reinvigorated in the new year, expect to see many more recipes like this one gracing the pages of this blog. Although they'll rarely satisfy a craving for a juicy, meaty cheeseburger when I want one, delicious veggie burgers this one can make frequent appearances on my dinner table without the slightest tinge of guilt. I can rarely convince my meat-and-potatoes-loving husband that veggie burgers have a place in his diet, but that just means more leftovers waiting for me in the freezer, just begging to be packed for lunch during the work week.

Sesame Sweet Potato and Cabbage Burgers
from Lukas Volger

makes 4 burgers

For the photographed version, I ran out of parsley and cilantro—sorry for the missing green stuff up there!

2 tablespoons neutral oil (canola, grapeseed, peanut, or vegetable oil)
1 large or 2 small onions, chopped
Scant 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 medium sweet potato, grated (10 to 12 ounces, or about 3 heaping cups grated)
2 cups finely shredded cabbage (about a quarter of a head)
2 teaspoons soy sauce or tamari
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 egg whites
1 tablespoon tahini
Juice of 1 lemon
1/4 cup breadcrumbs, or more if needed
3 tablespoons roughly chopped parsley or cilantro, optional

1. Preheat the oven to 325° F.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon neutral oil in a deep skillet or sauté pan (something big enough to hold the potatoes and cabbage—a wide sauté pan might work) over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cayenne and fry until soft and beginning to color deeply. Add the sesame oil, followed by the sweet potato and cabbage. Stir in the soy sauce and salt. Cover and cook until tender, stirring periodically, about 10 minutes. Allow to cool slightly.

3. Whisk together the egg whites, tahini, and lemon juice until combined. Add the cooked potato-cabbage mixture, then fold in the breadcrumbs and herbs. Add additional crumbs if the mixture seems loose, but err on the side of wet because the burgers will firm up in the oven. Shape into 4 patties.

4. Heat remaining oil in an oven-safe skillet (an oven-safe nonstick pan works really nicely with this burger, as the sweet potatoes tend to cling to the pan; going that route you can get away with using less oil) over medium heat. Add the burgers, in batches if necessary, and fry until golden-brown on both sides, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer them to the preheated oven and cook for 12 to 15 minutes, until firm to the touch.

Mushroom-Potato Crema with Roasted Poblanos

Like many Americans, I grew up with a fondness for Americanized Mexican food, delighting in the tacos, burritos, enchiladas, and nachos that pass for Mexican food in many places in the United States. While those inauthentic dishes can be delicious, as I've aged my tastes have matured and I have developed a love of real Mexican food, inspired in great part by the litany of amazing Rick Bayless recipes. And just as with all the other recipes I tried, this one does not disappoint in the slightest. It is amazing creamy despite only a scant amount of sour cream with just the perfect amount of spice and smokiness from the roasted poblano, made deeply satisfying with earthy, savory mushrooms. To make this even more luxurious, try adding a bit bacon or chorizo and garnishing with a sprinkling of crisp tortilla chips (Rick Bayless' Frontera line is great) along with the cilantro. (I would also be remiss if I didn't mention that this soup is also an irresistable,  if inauthentic, vessel for dunking corn muffins.)

The authentic suite of flavors is not overly aggressive, making this an excellent away to lure towards the true flavors of Mexico and a great option for Meatless Monday (or any weeknight when you find yourself short on time). With a thick blanket of snow on the ground and bitter winds swirling outside, this soup is the perfect way to tuck yourself away from the harsh winter and dream of the warm sun and beautiful beaches of our neighbor to the south.

Mushroom-Potato Crema with Roasted Poblanos
from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless
makes a generous 6 cups, serving 4

4 medium (about 1 pound total) red-skin boiling or Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into roughly 1-inch pieces
3 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
6 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1 large fresh poblano chile
8 ounces mushrooms (I like shiitake or oyster mushrooms), sliced 1/4-inch thick (you'll have about 3 cups slices)
1 scant cup corn kernals (they can be frozen or ones you've cut off 1 to 2 large ears)
1 large sprig fresh epazote (you can substitute a big sprig of fresh thyme or leave the herb out all together)
1/4 cup plain yogurt, heavy cream, or sour cream
Salt
About 1/4 cup roughly chopped cilantro, for garnish

1. Scoop the potatoes and garlic into a medium (3-quart) saucepan, pour in half of the broth and set over high heat. When the liquid boils, reduce the heat to medium and simmer briskly until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.

2. While the potatoes are cooking, roast the poblano over an open flame or 4 inches below a broiler, turning regularly until blistered and blackened all over, about 5 minutes for an open flame, about 10 minutes before a broiler. Cover with a kitchen towel. Let cool until handleable.

3. Rub the blackened bits off the chile and pull out the stem and seed pod. Rinse the chile to remove bits of skin and seeds. Cut into 1/4-inch pieces.

4. When the potatoes are tender, use an immersion blender to puree the soup base (or blend in several batches in a food processor or a loosely covered blender draped with a kitchen towel and return to the pan). Add the remaining half of the broth, the mushrooms, poblano, corn, and epazote (or thyme, if using). Simmer for 10 minutes over medium heat.

5. Just before serving, scoop about 1/2 cup of the hot soup into a small bowl. Mix in the yogurt, cream, or sour cream. Stir the mixture back into the pot, then taste and season with salt, usually about 1 1/2 teaspoons. Ladle the soup into bowls and sprinkle with the cilantro. Soup's on.