Monday, March 14, 2011

Pasta Alla Norma


If you're looking to cut back on the meat in your diet, but don't want to sacrifice hearty, savory flavor, this dish is for you. While it may seem like anchovies are a somewhat strange ingredient, those two tiny fillets add a tremendous amount of umami to the dish and greatly enhance the overall flavor. The eggplant provides a really satisfying texture in lieu of ground beef, deeply flavored  by the traditional Italian flavors of garlic, tomatoes, and fresh basil and topped with savory, salty cheese. This rich palate of flavors is well-suited for the last throes of winter, so give it a try before it's time to turn to the crisper lighter seasonal flavors of spring.

Pasta Alla Norma
from The Best of America's Test Kitchen 2011
serves 4

Note: This recipe calls for both regular and extra-virgin olive oil. The higher smoke point of regular olive oil makes it best for browning the eggplant; extra-virgin olive oil stirred into the sauce before serving lends fruity flavor. If you don't have regular olive oil, use vegetable oil. We prefer kosher salt in step 1 because it clings best to the eggplant. If using table salt, reduce the amount to 1/2 teaspoon. Do not stir the eggplant more often than called for in step 2, as doing so may cause the eggplant cubes to break apart. Ricotta salata is traditional, but French feta, Pecorino Romano, and cotija (a firm, crumbly Mexican cheese) are acceptable substitutes. Our preferred brands of crushed tomatoes are Tuttorosso and Muir Glen.

1 large eggplant (1.25 to 1.5 pounds), cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 anchovy fillets, minced
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
1 pound ziti, rigatoni, or penne
6 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
3 ounces ricotta salata, shredded (about 1 cup)

1. Toss the eggplant with 1 teaspoon salt in a medium bowl. Line the surface of a large microwave-safe plate with a double layer of coffee filters and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Spread the eggplant in an even layer over the coffee filters. Microwave the eggplant, uncovered, until dry to the touch and slightly shriveled, about 10 minutes, tossing once halfway through. Cool slightly.

2. Transfer the eggplant to a medium bowl, drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, and toss gently to coat. Discard the coffee filters. Heat 1 tablespoon more olive oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the eggplant and distribute in an even layer. Cook, stirring every 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, until well browned and fully tender, about 10 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat, transfer the eggplant to a plate, and set aside.

3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, garlic, anchovies, and red pepper flakes to the empty but still-hot skillet and cook using the residual heat so the garlic doesn't burn, stirring constantly, until fragrant and the garlic becomes pale golden, about 1 minutes (if the skillet is too cool to cook the mixture, set it over medium heat). Add the tomatoes, return the skillet to medium-high heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is slightly thickened, 8 to 10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Add the pasta and 2 tablespoons salt and cook until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water, drain the pasta, and return it to the pot.

5. While the pasta is cooking, return the eggplant to the skillet with the tomatoes and gently stir to incorporate. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is heated through and the flavors are blended, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir the basil and extra-virgin olive oil into the sauce and season with salt to taste. Add the sauce to the cooked pasta, adjusting the consistency with the reserved pasta cooking water so that the sauce coats the pasta. Sprinkle with the ricotta salata and serve immediately.

Saturday, March 12, 2011

Baked Steel Cut Oats with Apples and Currants


The piles of snow are slowly fading away and the sunrise is bleeding into my early morning walks with the dog, so I finally feel like spring is truly on the way. While I'm anxious for warm weather and the reappearance of lush green foliage, I'm not quite ready to let go of my winter weekend breakfast staple, baked steel cut oats. When rearranging my baking supply cupboard I came across a big bag of organic currants that I forgot I purchased a while back. I tossed them in my old-fashioned oats this and on top of my yogurt and granola, but I was most anxious to put them in my steel-cut oats when the weekend arrived. You could substitute raisins, although I don't think they'd be quite as good, and top with some toasted chopped walnuts (or other nuts), but I like the simplicity of steel-cut oats, fruit, with a touch of maple syrup. Starting the day off with a delicious healthy breakfast like this one gives me the energy to get all my weekend errands and chores done and just generally makes me happy and optimistic for the day ahead. I never understand how people skip breakfast on a regular basis (I can't even make it to lunch without a morning snack) because it's how I start my day off on the right foot. So pop these steel cut oats in the oven, linger over the paper with a hot cup of coffee, and get ready to start the weekend!
 
Baked Steel Cut Oats with Apples and Currants

serves 1

1 small apple, diced
2 tablespoons currants
1/4 cup steel cut oats
1/2 cup milk
1 tablespoon maple syrup

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place diced apple and currants in the bottom of an individual-sized oven proof dish.

2. Pour steel cut oats over the fruit, then add milk and bake for 30 minutes.

3. Remove from the oven and drizzle with maple syrup. Enjoy!

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Dill Tuna Melts


I make it a point to have fish once a week, sometimes in elaborate preparations, but often in something as simple as tuna salad. But just because tuna salad is quick and easy, doesn't mean it has to be boring. This flavorful tuna salad came together as I was poking around in my fridge and tossing in ingredients on pure instinct. I knew this recipe was a success when my husband asked where I found the recipe-I know when he thinks it came from a professional that I did a good job. Dill is the most dominant flavor in this recipe, a pure injection of freshness that also pairs extremely well with salmon, so feel free to substitute salmon for the tuna if you like. I gave a range of amounts for the mayo and dijon mustard because the intensity of flavor of the Dijon mustard can vary widely and there is a range of preferences on the chunkiness of tuna salad. In general, I prefer two parts mayo to one part Dijon mustard, though the overall amount of sauce I prefer changes from day to day. So the next time you make a tuna salad sandwich, take a couple extra minutes to throw in some delicious add-ins and make it something a little special.

Dill Tuna Melts on Whole Wheat Pitas
serves 2

One 5-ounce can chunk light tuna (or salmon)
2 to 4 tablespoons light mayo
1 to 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Two whole wheat pitas
1/4 cup shredded mozzarella or other good melting cheese
Lettuce leaves

1. Preheat regular or toaster oven set on broiler setting. Combine tuna, mayo, mustard, shallots, and dill in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste.

2. Spread half the tuna mixture over one half of each pita and top with shredded cheese. Broil until cheese is melted and just starting to brown and tuna mixture is warmed through, 3 to 8 minutes, depending on the strength of your broiler (which can vary widely, so keep a close eye on it). Place a lettuce leaf on each pita and fold in half while still warm. Serve immediately.

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Lighter Cauliflower Soup


It's a well-established fact that I have an obsession with roasted cauliflower-I love it plain, roasted with dijon mustard, and in pasta-so when I saw a roasted cauliflower soup recipe there was no way I could pass it up. In this soup the cauliflower is roasted with onion, filling the kitchen with the extraordinary scent of caramelized vegetables so enticing that it's tempting to take the vegetables out of the oven early to get on with putting the soup together, but the longer they remain in the oven the deeper flavor the soup will have. The flavor is so rich and developed that a small amount of half-and-half is all that it takes to make this soup deeply rich and luxurious. If you have one, I recommend using an immersion blender to blend the soup right in the pot, which simplifies things and reduces clean-up. If you want a super-smooth soup you'll probably still want to opt for the blender, but I prefer a slightly rustic texture in this soup. This soup is also a pleasure to eat for leftovers the next day after the flavors have had a chance to marry and develop further.

Lighter Cauliflower Soup
from The Best of America's Test Kitchen 2011
serves 4

1 head cauliflower (about 2 pounds), trimmed, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch florets (about 6 cups)
1 onion, halved and sliced 1/2 inch thikc
4 teaspoons canola oil
Salt and pepper
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 cup dry white wine
1 bay leaf
3 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1/2 cup half-and-half
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives

1. Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 450 degrees.

2. Toss the cauliflower, onion, 1 tablespoon of the oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper together in a large bowl, then spread the mixture in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast until the cauliflower is softened and lightly browned, 30 to 40 minutes, stirring halfway through.

3. Combine the roasted vegetables and remaining 1 teaspoon oil in a large Dutch oven. Cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is very soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Uncover, stir in the garlic, and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

4. Stir in the wine and bay leaf and cook until the wine has reduced by half, about 1 minute. Stir in the borth and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove and discard the bay leaf.

5. Working in two batches, process the cauliflower mixture in a blender until smooth, about 1 minutes. Transfer the cauliflower mixture to a clean Dutch oven, stir in the half-and-half, and cook over low heat until hot.

6. Season with salt and pepper to taste, ladle into bowls, and sprinkle each portion with some of the chives before serving. (The soup can be cooled and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 month. Thaw is frozen and reheat over low heat; do not boil.)

Monday, March 7, 2011

Shredded Carrot Salad with Cilantro Dressing


I decided to try out this recipe because one, I really loved the other shredded carrot salad I tried from the Moosewood Restaurant New Classics cookbook, and two, I spent so much time thinking about my gyro recipe that I totally forgot to find a side to serve with it. (It also didn't hurt that I still had cilantro leftover from making Chickpeas in Spicy Tomato Gravy). I eat tons of fresh green salads, and I admit that it would probably do me some good to change it up a little bit and try something different. Shredded carrot salads offer all the satisfying crunch of a green side salad and can hold their own with boldly flavored dressings, which I love. Granted, shredding carrots isn't my favorite culinary task, but it's well worth it to shake up my side dish routine. Lime juice would also work really well in the vinaigrette, making the dressing reminiscent of Thai flavors; if going this route, a splash of soy or tamari would also be a nice addition.

Shredded Carrot Salad with Cilantro Dressing
adapted from Moosewood Restaurant New Classics
serves 4

2 1/2 cups peeled and grated carrots

Cilantro Dressing
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 small garlic clove, minced or pressed
1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1. Place the carrots in a serving bowl and set aside. With a whisk or in a blender, combine the rest of the ingredients for the dressing.  Pour the dressing over the carrots and toss well. Serve lightly chilled or at room temperature.

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Gyros with Yogurt-Tomato Sauce


I bought some mutton blade steaks from a local apple orchard last year and they spent many months lingering in the freezer with no real plan. I've been on a mission recently to clear out out my pantry and freezer so I knew I had to figure out a way to cook the mutton, which I had never cooked before. The first dish I think of when it comes to lamb is gyros, so why not try it with mutton? Since mutton is just older lamb, the obvious difference between the two is the toughness of the meat, which I overcame by marinating the meat for 24 hours (and it probably would have benefited from even more time). The mutton was obviously tougher than lamb would be, but by no means did I feel like a caveman digging into these delicious gyros.This recipe is based on gyros made with pork tenderloin, but I could even see happily preparing this dish with chicken thighs or breasts as well, though they would not need to marinate as long as the mutton. Although these aren't the same as gyros from an authentic Greek restaurant, they are packed with flavor and will definitely be making more appearances on my dinner table.

Gyros with Yogurt-Tomato Sauce
adapted from Epicurious
serves 4

Lamb
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons dry red wine
2 garlic cloves, pressed through a garlic press
1 small bay leaf, crumbled
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound lamb or mutton steaks or chops

Sauce
3/4 cup plain Greek yogurt or whole-milk yogurt
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
1 tablespoon drained capers, chopped
1 garlic clove, pressed through a garlic press
1/2 tablespoon tomato paste
1/2 tablespoon red wine vinegar

4 whole wheat pita breads
Sliced cucumber, for serving
Thinly sliced red onion, for serving
Crumbled feta cheese, for serving


1. For lamb: Combine first 7 ingredients in large resealable plastic bag; shake to blend. Add lamb to marinade; seal bag. Chill overnight, turning bag occasionally.

2. For sauce: Stir first 7 ingredients in medium bowl to blend. Season sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and chill until ready to use, up to 1 day.

3. Preheat a grill or pan over medium to medium-heat. Grill until thermometer inserted into thickest part of meat registers 125°F (for medium-rare) or 130°F (for medium), turning every few minutes to ensure even browning. Transfer to a cutting board; let stand 10 minutes (temperature will rise 5 to 10 degrees). Slice thinly.

4. Grill pitas until warmed through and softened, about 2 minutes per side.Spread pitas with sauce, add cucumber slices, red onion, and cheese, and top with lamb. Serve, passing remaining sauce separately.

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Baked Steel Cut Oats with Apples, Blueberries, and Walnuts


Ever since I discovered how to make steel-cut oats in the oven, I've making them for breakfast once a week, usually on Sunday morning. I use whatever fruit and nuts I happen to be in the mood for and when I saw the handful of fresh blueberries left in the fridge, I knew they'd be perfect in baked steel cut oats. The juicy blueberries pop when you bite into them, and are a great contrast to tart, slightly crunchy apples and nutty oats. I tossed some toasted walnuts on top for some richness and crunch, drizzling homemade blueberry syrup over top just to gild the lily a bit more and creating the perfect lazy weekend breakfast with a maple latte and the paper.
 
Baked Steel Cut Oats with Apples, Blueberries, and Walnuts

serves 1

1 small apple, diced
1/4 cup fresh blueberries
1/4 cup steel cut oats
1/2 cup milk
2 tablespoons chopped toasted walnuts
1 tablespoon blueberry syrup, honey, or maple syrup

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place diced apple and blueberries in the bottom of an individual-sized oven proof dish.

2. Pour steel cut oats over the fruit, then add milk and bake for 30 minutes.

3. Remove from the oven and top with toasted walnuts and blueberry syrup. Enjoy!