Turnip, Leek, Potato, and Spinach Soup

Despite, or perhaps because of, it's simplicity, leek and potato soup is one of my favorites. Through some beautiful culinary alchemy, potatoes, leeks, butter, salt, and water turn in something magical that needs no further enhancement. But that certainly doesn't mean there isn't room for experimentation! This riff on classic pays homage to the classic Potage Parmentier without hiding the extra zing from the turnips or hint of earthy greens. It's surprisingly filling for such a light dish, able to become a meal with just a salad or a heartier one as a companion to your favorite sandwich. Tossing in some beans, cooked grains, or a poached egg (or any combination of the three) is my favorite way to fortify this recipe, and create a delicious, healthy meal out of the orphan ingredients in my fridge. The extra soup freezes beautifully, and there will still be plenty to save even after you dig in heartily.

Turnip, Leek, Potato, and Spinach Soup
adapted from the New York Times
makes 8 servings

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 large leeks, white and light green part only, halved lengthwise, cleaned and sliced or chopped
Salt to taste
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 pounds turnips, peeled and diced
1 large russet potato (about 3/4 pound), peeled and diced
2 quarts water, chicken stock, or vegetable stock
8 ounces baby spinach or kale, chopped
A bouquet garni made with a bay leaf and a couple of sprigs each thyme and parsley
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh tarragon and/or chives for garnish

1. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy soup pot over medium heat and add the onion, leeks and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 30 seconds to a minute. Add the turnips, potatoes, water or stock, salt to taste, and the bouquet garni. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer 45 minutes, or until the vegetables are very tender and the soup is fragrant.  During the last few minutes of cooking, add the spinach by handfuls, cooking until the just wilt down. Remove and discard the bouquet garni.

2. Blend the soup in batches in a blender (cover the top with a towel and hold it down to avoid hot splashes), or through a food mill fitted with the fine blade. The soup should be very smooth. Strain if desired. Return to the pot. Stir and taste. Adjust salt, add freshly ground pepper, and heat through. Serve in small bowls or espresso cups, garnished with chopped fresh tarragon and/or chives.

Sweet Potato and Orange Soup with Smoky Pecans

I may sound like a broken record, but I just can't say enough good things about Joe Yonan's cookbooks. His easy and delicious recipes make each meal something to look forward to, even when my dining companions are just the characters in a novel I'm reading. Making a concentrated soup base to switch up with each meal is an absolutely genius way to both plan ahead and decide on the fly what have for dinner, and as I predicted, my second foray into that territory was just as wonderful as the first.

The sweet potato soup base, as its name would imply, has an inherent sweetness, but thinning it with orange juice adds an extra nuanced layer balanced with enough acidity to keep it from becoming cloying. Creme fraiche and the spiced oil add richness, along with their respective tanginess and smokiness, with a final accent of toasted pecans to contrast the sumptuously silky soup. Each ingredient is a delightful touch even solo, but together they achieve a sublime, delicious balance.

After enjoying the soup base and two variations, I'm definitely ready to but my personal touch on the final portion in my freezer. And after that's gone, it's on to spicy black bean soup base!

Sweet Potato and Orange Soup with Smoky Pecans
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
makes 1 serving

1 cup Sweet Potato Soup Base, defrosted if frozen (see recipe below)
1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1/4 cup water or vegetable stock, plus more as needed
Kosher or sea salt
2 tablespoons pecan halves
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon pimenton (smoked Spanish paprika) or ground chipotle chile
2 tablespoons creme fraiche, sour cream, or yogurt, whisked until smooth
Finely grated zest of 1 orange

1. Pour the soup base into a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the orange juice and water, adding more water if you want a thinner consistency. Cook until the soup is bubbling hot, 3 to 4 minutes. Taste and add salt if needed. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot.

2. Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pecans and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are fragrant and start to darken, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour in the oil, stir in the pimenton, and cook for another 30 seconds to dissolve the spice. Use a heatproof spatula to scrape the spiced oil and pecans into a small bowl.

3. Pour the soup into a serving bowl, dollop the crème fraîche in the middle, and top with the pecans and spiced oil. Sprinkle the orange zest on top, and eat.

Sweet Potato Soup Base
from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
makes about 4 cups

2 (10- to 12-ounce) sweet potatoes
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 celery stalk, thinly sliced
1 small leek, white and pale greens, thinly sliced
2 sprigs thyme
Kosher or sea salt
Pinch of curry powder
2 cups light chicken or vegetable stock, warmed

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.

2. Use a fork or sharp knife to prick the sweet potatoes in several places. Place on a piece of aluminum foil
and bake until the sweet potatoes are tender and can be easily squeezed, 60 to 75 minutes.
(Alternatively, to speed up the process, microwave the pricked sweet potatoes on High for 1 minute,
then carefully transfer to the oven on a piece of foil. Bake until the potatoes are tender, 30 to 45
minutes.)

3. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the carrots,
celery, leek, thyme, and a pinch of salt. Stir to combine well, then decrease the heat to low, cover the
pot, and allow the vegetables to sweat in their own juices until very soft, 10 to 15 minutes. (Take care
not to allow the vegetables to burn.)

4. Scrape into the saucepan the soft flesh from the roasted sweet potatoes, add the curry powder, and stir
to combine, mashing the sweet potato flesh with a spoon. The mixture will be chunky. Stir in the stock
and combine well. Bring the mixture to a boil, then decrease the heat so the mixture gently simmers, and
cook, covered but with the lid slightly ajar, for about 15 minutes to let the flavors meld. Allow the mixture
to cool slightly, then remove and discard the thyme.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup base, which will be very thick. (Alternatively, you
can puree it in a blender or food processor. If using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the
lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the
soup.) Taste and add salt if needed.

6. Let the soup base cool to room temperature. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate
for up to 2 weeks, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags,
pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Sweet Potato Soup with Chorizo, Chickpeas, and Kale

One of the most genius things I've gleaned from my time pouring through Joe Yonan's cookbooks recently is the idea of making a concentrated soup base. Invest a little extra time one day, and you'll have a freezer full of flavorful foundation for diluting and dressing up at dinner time. This sweet potato soup base, while delicious all on its own, becomes something truly spectacular with a topping of savory chorizo, crispy chickpeas, and earthy kale. Rendering the fat from the chorizo quickly infuses the chickpeas and kale with flavor, creating the perfect crispy, spicy topping for the sweet and silky soup. This soup deftly balances indulgent and healthy elements, but if you absolutely have to cut back or are a vegetarian, you can crisp up the chickpeas and kale in olive oil instead.

With one more sweet potato soup left in Yonan's book for me to try, I hardly wait to break the next portion out of the freezer - if it's half as successful as this variation, I'm guaranteed to savor every bite. Now to decide what personal touch I'm going to put on the final serving...

Sweet Potato Soup with Chorizo, Chickpeas, and Kale
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 cup Sweet Potato Soup Base, defrosted if frozen (see below)
½ to ¾ cup water or vegetable stock
1 (3- or 4-ounce) link fresh Mexican chorizo
1/3 cup cooked chickpeas, preferably homemade, rinsed and drained
4 or 5 leaves kale, stripped from the stem and torn into bite-size pieces

1. Pour the soup base into a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in ½ cup of the water and cook until the soup is bubbling hot, 3 to 4 minutes. Add more water if you want the soup thinner. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and keep it hot.

2. Heat a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Slice through the chorizo casing and squeeze the sausage into the skillet (or cut into small pieces). Cook, breaking it up with a spoon, until the chorizo’s fat starts to melt, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the chickpeas and cook until the chorizo and chickpeas brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the kale and stir-fry until the kale wilts slightly, brightens in color, and gets a few crunchy edges, 2 to 5 minutes.

3. Pour the soup base into a soup bowl, top with the chorizo mixture, and eat.

Sweet Potato Soup Base
from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan
makes about 4 cups

2 (10- to 12-ounce) sweet potatoes
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 celery stalk, thinly sliced
1 small leek, white and pale greens, thinly sliced
2 sprigs thyme
Kosher or sea salt
Pinch of curry powder
2 cups light chicken or vegetable stock, warmed

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.

2. Use a fork or sharp knife to prick the sweet potatoes in several places. Place on a piece of aluminum foil
and bake until the sweet potatoes are tender and can be easily squeezed, 60 to 75 minutes.
(Alternatively, to speed up the process, microwave the pricked sweet potatoes on High for 1 minute,
then carefully transfer to the oven on a piece of foil. Bake until the potatoes are tender, 30 to 45
minutes.)

3. Pour the oil into a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the carrots,
celery, leek, thyme, and a pinch of salt. Stir to combine well, then decrease the heat to low, cover the
pot, and allow the vegetables to sweat in their own juices until very soft, 10 to 15 minutes. (Take care
not to allow the vegetables to burn.)

4. Scrape into the saucepan the soft flesh from the roasted sweet potatoes, add the curry powder, and stir
to combine, mashing the sweet potato flesh with a spoon. The mixture will be chunky. Stir in the stock
and combine well. Bring the mixture to a boil, then decrease the heat so the mixture gently simmers, and
cook, covered but with the lid slightly ajar, for about 15 minutes to let the flavors meld. Allow the mixture
to cool slightly, then remove and discard the thyme.

5. Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup base, which will be very thick. (Alternatively, you
can puree it in a blender or food processor. If using a blender, be sure to remove the center cap on the
lid and cover with a dish towel to let steam escape, and work in small batches to avoid splattering the
soup.) Taste and add salt if needed.

6. Let the soup base cool to room temperature. Divide it into 4 portions and use immediately, refrigerate
for up to 2 weeks, or freeze in small containers or heavy-duty freezer-safe resealable plastic bags,
pressing as much air out of the bag as possible before sealing. It will keep frozen for several months.

Leek and Potato Soup with Winter Greens

Even at its most basic, potato leek soup is thing of beauty. Some sort of alchemy occurs when those two elements come together with just a little fat, salt, and water and the result is positively addictive. But that doesn't mean it's not worth tinkering with. This version is a slightly elevated version of  the basic, starting with an intensely flavored, silky homemade stock. Making stock from scratch certainly lengthens the time from fridge to table, but there's plenty of time for all the other prep work while it slowly simmers on the stove. The addition of fresh spinach or other winter greens ups the nutrition factor and lightens the body, with the final finishing touches of bright lemon juice and fresh dill uniting all the elements. A classic with a little hint of something extra, this soup is simple, soul-warming, from-scratch cookery at its finest. And that's exactly what you need when winter rears its ugly head.

Leek and Potato Soup with Winter Greens
adapted from Moosewood Restaurant New Classics
serves 6 to 8

10 cups water
3 leeks, sliced down the center and well-rinsed
1 1/2 cups peeled and coarsely chopped carrots
4 cups coarsely chopped potatoes
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups baby spinach, kale, or Swiss chard
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill (or 2 teaspoon dried)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Add water to a large soup pot. Cut the dark green tops off the leeks, rinse well to remove any hidden sand, and stir them into the pot. Add the carrots, about half of the potatoes, the thyme, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer the stock for about 45 minutes.

2. While the stock simmers, remove the root ends from the leeks, peel of the outermost later, and chop the white and most tender green parts.

3. In a large sup pot, saute the leeks in olive oil until tender, about 10 to 15 minutes. Strain the stock and add it to the fennel and leeks. Add the rest of the potatoes and simmer until soft, about 15 minutes. Stir in the spinach, dill, lemon juice, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

4. Puree the soup in batches in a blender or with an immersion blender until smooth and silky. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve.

Cabbage, Potato and Leek Soup

Potato and leek soup is way more delicious than it deserves to be. Even at its most basic, the simple combination of leeks, potatoes, salt, and water, is amazingly delicious. But that being said, there's no reason not to experiment with the basic recipe, particularly when it uses up even more of my CSA vegetables.

I tend to go for a mixture of chunky and smooth in my potato-leek soup, but with cabbage playing an important role, the immersion blender stayed in the drawer. The leeks melt into the broth and the potatoes just begin to fall apart, blending with tangles of tender cabbage in each bite. Salt and pepper would be enough to season this dynamic combination, but the hint of herbaceous thyme and savory Parmesan really bring it all together. Thyme can be a polarizing ingredient, so use a light hand and swap it out for another herb if it's not to your liking. Hearty greens like spinach, kale, or chard, could be substituted for the cabbage, if necessary, but should be added at the end of the cooking process.

There have been a few schizophrenic weather turns, but these darker days and cool temperatures leave no doubt than winter's on its way. Even if I miss most of the daylight hours at work and have to bundle up each time I step outside, hearty bowls like this one are one the best reasons to embrace the season. Soup's on!

Cabbage, Potato and Leek Soup

adapted from the New York Times

serves 4

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 medium leeks, white and light green parts, thinly sliced
8 cups shredded cabbage

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 medium russet, Yukon Gold, or red potatoes, peeled and diced

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock or water

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Grated Parmesan or Parmigiano-Reggiano, to serve (optional)

1. Melt the butter in a large pot over medium-high heat, add the leeks and cook until soft and golden around the edges, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the cabbage and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until cabbage begins to caramelize, about 10 minutes.

2. Stir in potatoes, stock, 4 cups water, salt and thyme. Bring soup to a simmer and cook, partly covered, until potatoes begin to fall apart, 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the size of the potatoes. Add more water, as needed, to reach the desired consistency. Season with additional salt and black pepper and serve, topped with cheese.

Asparagus and Leek Soup

After one of my favorite farmers told me last week was their final week of asparagus, I was worried it would disappear entirely from the market. There's no denying that end of asparagus season is still nigh, but I was still able to pick up another bunch for the delicious recipe.

Leeks are a kind of magical ingredient. Potato and Leek Soup, though composed of just a few elements, is packed with an unbelievable amount of flavor and so much more than it's humble ingredients would suggest on paper. Paired with the already delicious asparagus, leek again performs culinary alchemy to elevate this vibrant soup to something quite refined. The butter and sour cream add the perfect touch of richness, making each bite silky and creamy but not heavy. Just a touch of lemon juice at the end sharpens all the fresh notes of the soup and makes it really at home in the warmer months. Early in spring this would be amazing made with ramps, but that glorious ingredient had sadly long since disappeared for the year.

With the requisite slice of crusty bread, this was just my Meatless Monday dinner, but I think it would make a splendid first course for a dinner party or companion to a sandwich or salad. If you're still shoveling in the asparagus like I am, I urge you to make this lovely soup before the opportunity escapes and it's too hot to even dream of firing up the stove for dinner.

Asparagus and Leek Soup
adapted from Gourmet
serves 2

1 cup finely chopped white and pale green part of leek, washed well
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 1/4 cups chicken or vegetable broth or water

1 teaspoon lemon juice, or to taste
1/3 cup low fat sour cream, Greek yogurt, or creme fraiche

1. In a saucepan cook the leek and the garlic with a pinch of salt in the butter over moderately low heat, stirring, until the leek is softened, about 3 to 5 minutes.

2. Add the asparagus, the broth, and 1/2 cup water, and simmer the mixture, covered, for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the asparagus is very tender. Purée the mixture in a blender or with an immersion blender until it is very smooth.

3. Whisk in the lemon juice and sour cream and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook the soup over moderately low heat until it is heated through, but do not let it boil.
.

Creamy Root Vegetable Soup

The only thing I can count on with my winter CSA is that I'm going to get a lot of squash and root vegetables. I'm always browsing for recipes that use up a lot of one vegetable, but once I'm done with I'm those, I'm often left with an assortment of small amount of vegetables that I'm not quite sure what to do with. The last bits of my first CSA box included parsnips, celeriac, carrots, potatoes, and leeks, so it seemed almost supernatural fortune to find this recipe that used up all my odds and ends. Although there's a lot going on root vegetable-wise in this soup, they all balance each other nicely. The carrots, celeriac, and leeks are a subtle variation on the classic mirepoix, with the parsnips adding a bit of zestiness and the potatoes body and creaminess. Blending the vegetables makes this hearty soup silky and infuses garlic and fresh herbs into every bite. Although the particular combination of root vegetables and herbs was especially delicious, this recipe is also an excellent template for experimentation. Between plates of indulgence at holiday celebrations, use this recipe to fill yourself with healthy vegetables and brilliant winter flavor.

Creamy Root Vegetable Soup

adapted from Food and Wine

serves 4

2 teaspoons olive oil
1 pound parsnips, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 small celery root, peeled and sliced 1/3 inch thick
2 medium carrots, thinly sliced
1 medium red potato, cut into 1-inch dice
1 large leek, white and tender green, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 fresh thyme sprigs
Salt
1 quart chicken or vegetable stock or canned low-sodium broth, defatted
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary

1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the parsnips, celery root, carrots, potato, leek, garlic, thyme, 1/2 teaspoon of salt and 1/2 cup of water. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until the liquid has evaporated and the vegetables start to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the stock, cover the pan and reduce the heat to moderately low. Cook until the vegetables are very tender, about 30 minutes.

2. Transfer the soup to a blender and puree until smooth, then season with salt and pepper. (Alternatively, blend the soup in the both with an immersion blender). Ladle the soup into bowls, sprinkle with the rosemary and serve.

Zesty Tomato-Ginger Bisque

Although you'd never believe it after these 90-degree-plus days recently, there was a day this past week where it was more than appropriate to have grilled cheese and tomato soup for dinner. My last culinary experiment with fancy grilled cheese and tomato soup got me excited to try more, perfectly coinciding with my new obsession with Susie Middleton's newest cookbook, The Fresh and Green Table.
And just as with her last cookbook, Fast, Fresh and Green (which I was also obsessed with), no recipe I've tried so far has been a disappointment (look forward to more posts!). Although still a basic enough tomato soup to please almost anyone, the fennel and leeks provide subtle layers of flavor to entertain the sophisticated culinary palate. The zippy ginger notes make this tomato soup feel exceptionally fresh and make it perfectly suited to the end of summer. As with so many soups, any time that leftovers spend in the fridge only serves to let the flavors mingle and transform, making any leftovers a new and delightful dining experience. A fantastic way to dress up an old favorite, this recipe, along with an ostentatious grilled cheese, is a delicious new approach to a classic meal.

Zesty Tomato-Ginger Bisque
adapted from The Fresh and Green Table by Susie Middleton
serves 4

2 tablespoons orange juice
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon tomato paste or sun-dried tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Two 28-ounce cans whole, peeled tomatoes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 medium or 4 small leeks, white and pale greens parts only, thoroughly washed and cut crosswise into thin slices (1 1/2 cups, about 5 1/2 ounces)
1 small fennel bulb, stemmed, quartered, and thinly sliced (1 1/2 cups)
Kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1/2 cup half-and-half (or heavy cream, for extra decadence)
Freshly ground pepper
24 to 28 Rustic Croutons (see cookbook for recipe) or crusty bread, optional

1. In a small bowl, combine the orange juice, honey, tomato paste and balsamic vinegar. Set aisde.

2. Empty the contents of both tomato cans into a mixing bowl. Gently break up the tomatoes into smaller pieces with your hands (effective but messy!) or a pair of scissors. Add 1 cup water to the tomatoes and set aside.

3. In a large Dutch oven or other wide saucepan, heat the olive oil and butter over medium-low heat. Add the leeks, fennel, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Uncover, raise the heat to medium, and continue cooking, stirring frequently and scraping any browned bits off the bottom of the pan, until the vegetables are all browned in spots and the bottom of the pan is browning a lot, another 8 to 10 minutes.

4. Add the coriander and stir well. Add the ginger and garlic, and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the orange juice-tomato paste mixture and the tomatoes and stir well to incorporate. Bring the soup t a boil and immediately reduce to a gently simmer. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 17 to 18 minutes. (You will notice that the soup has reduced a bit). Remove the pan from heat and let the soup cool for 15 to 20 minutes.

5. In a blender, puree the soup in three batches, filling the jar only about halfway or just a little more and partially covering the lid with a folded dish towel (leaving a vent uncovered to let out steam) to prevent hot soup from splashing you. In a large mixing bowl, combine the three batches and then return the soup to the (rinsed) pot. Whisk in the half-and-half. Taste the soup for seasoning and add more salt or pepper, if needed.

6. Reheat the soup very gently. Serve hot, garnished with the croutons.

Potato and Leek Soup

As hard as it was for me not to go back to the simple perfection of Julia Child's Potage Parmentier, which I have made time and time again, I thought it was about time I gave another leek and potato soup recipe a try. This recipe, like Julia Child's, is the height of simplicity. Every time I take a bite of leek and potato soup I am amazed at the depth of flavor in a dish with so few ingredients so I saw no reason to choose a more complicated recipe for my first foray away from the genius of Julia Child. And, as you can probably guess since I've decided to share, I was not at all disappointed by this recipe, even if it doesn't quite hold the special place in my heart that Julia's recipe does. Yet again, the simple combination of potatoes and leeks has come together in a perfect bowl of comfort that is so much more than the sum of its parts. Pureeing a small portion of the soup gives the soup a luscious creaminess, but maintains the hearty, rustic texture of the chunky potatoes and leeks. I can't explain exactly what makes potato leek soup so irresistable to me, but something about blending starchy, hearty potatoes and sweet, delicate leeks is absolutely transcendent. Your effort will be rewarded many times over with if you invest just a little bit of time and effort to make this delicious soup, as perfect for busy weeknight as it is for the first course at your Thanksgiving dinner.

 Potato and Leek Soup
from Gourmet, via Epicurious
serves 2, generously


the white and pale green part of 2 large leeks, split lengthwise, washed well, and chopped
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups water
1 cup chicken broth
1 pound boiling, potatoes
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. In a large heavy saucepan cook the leeks in the butter with salt and pepper to taste, covered, over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes, or until they are softened but not browned. Add the water, the broth, and the potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice, and simmer the mixture, covered, for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. 


2. In a blender purée 1 cup of the soup, stir the puré into the remaining soup with the parsley, and season the soup with salt and pepper.

Creamy Cauliflower Leek Soup

While many people are bemoaning the return of fall weather, I am relishing in the season, welcoming cozy sweaters, thick blankets, and hearty meals with open arms. Now that the appropriate weather has arrived, I have dived into my annual obsession with soups. I started with the savory and satisfying Cream of Broccoli Soup, moving on next to this rich and creamy cauliflower soup, which I served with a stick-to-your-ribs reuben, piled high with delicious corned beef. Potato and leek soup, has a strikingly complex flavor profile for such a simple recipe, so when I found a cauliflower soup that also used leeks, I knew that would be an excellent partner to my massive Reuben melts. This cauliflower soup is an excellent substitute for the typical sides served with Reubens like potato salad or fries, providing the satisfaction of those starchy sides while sneaking some vegetables into the meal. Even lightened up a bit, this still is undoubtedly a meal for those with a hearty appetite, like myself. The piquant corned beef is a pleasing contrast to the thick, silky soup, but the leftover soup became an especially delicious lunch the next day after the flavor profile had a chance to develop overnight. This simple soup provides an immense return for the little effort it requires to prepare, so treat yourself right and cook up a big pot of soup instead of just opening a can.


Creamy Cauliflower Leek Soup
adapted from Gourmet (via Epicurious)
serves 4 as a first course, 2 as a main course

1 medium leek (white and pale green parts only), halved lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices (3/4 cup)
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon water
1 (2-lb) head cauliflower, cored and cut into 1-inch pieces (6 cups)
3/4 teaspoon ground coriander
2 cups reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
1 cup 2% milk
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1. Wash leek slices in a bowl of cold water, agitating, then lift out and pat dry.

2. Melt butter with water in a 4- to 5-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat. Add cauliflower and leek and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until cauliflower begins to soften (do not let brown), about 5 minutes. Add coriander and cook, stirring, 1 minute, then add broth, milk, salt, and pepper and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat and gently simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, until cauliflower is very tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

3. Purée soup in 2 batches in a blender (use caution when blending hot liquids) until very smooth, or puree in the pot (off the heat) with an immersion blender, thinning with additional stock or water, if desired. Serve hot.

Simplest Chicken and Leek Stew

After a long day at work, bookended by scraping layers of ice off my car, this stew was a welcome bowl of comfort at dinnertime. This is the second recipe by Jamie Oliver that I've tried from the current issue of Food and Wine (the first being Light Smoked Salmon Caesar Salad, a slight adaptation), and I'm happy to report I've been really pleased with both. I thoroughly admire his work trying to improve school lunch programs through Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution and I'm pleased to discover that I'm also a fan of his work as a chef as well so far. I'd never cooked with leeks until a couple years ago, but I've really come to love their flavor, with Potage Parmentier being one of my favorite soups, despite being almost irreducibly simple. This stew is equally delicious as a long-simmered beef stew, but in a much different way. While both stews are hearty and perfect for a cold winter day, where the beef stew has deep, earthy flavors the flavor palate of this chicken stew is lighter and fresher, and isn't nearly as heavy a dish. I served this stew over brown rice, but it would also be great served over couscous, quinoa, or barley.


Simplest Chicken and Leek Stew
from Jamie Oliver via Food and Wine
serves 4

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium leeks, white and tender green parts only, thinly sliced
1/2 pound cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 pound skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, cut into 2-inch pieces
All-purpose flour, for dusting
1 1/2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
1 tablespoon chopped thyme
2 tablespoons sour cream
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1. In a skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the leeks and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook, stirring, until the mushrooms are tender, about 4 minutes. Scrape the leeks and mushrooms onto a plate.

2. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and lightly dust with flour, shaking off any excess. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in the skillet. Add the chicken and cook over moderate heat until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Add the chicken stock and thyme and simmer over moderate heat until the chicken is just cooked through, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to the plate with the vegetables.

3. Simmer the stock over moderately high heat until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Return the chicken, leeks and mushrooms to the skillet and simmer over low heat until warmed through, about 1 minute.

4. In a small bowl, blend the sour cream with the mustard and stir into the stew. Remove the skillet from the heat. Season the stew with salt and pepper and serve.

Roasted Butternut Squash Chowder

This is a pretty darn good soup. It is not, however, the rich butternut squash chowder I was expecting. I was hoping for am almost creamy soup where butternut squash was the dominant flavor, but instead ended up with more light and nuanced soup filled with the flavors of myriad vegetables, particularly leeks. I absolutely adore Potage Parmentier, so the leek flavor was more than welcome and I really enjoyed the varied bounty of the farmer's market in my bowl (all of the vegetables in this soup were still available this past Saturday at the Dane County Farmers' Market). This soup requires a lot of prep work and is perhaps better suited to a weekend meal than the busy Monday night I chose to make it, but was a satisfying and healthy meal, a perfect start to the week. I served my soup with a crisp side salad and a hearty slice of Jim's Irish Brown Bread with butter, although I have included the link to Food and Wine's suggested accompaniment, Parmesan Croutons.

Cook's Note: I used aluminum foil instead of parchment paper to cover the butternut squash while roasted because my parchment paper (Reynold's brand) was only oven-safe to 420 degrees F.

Roasted Butternut Squash Chowder
from Food and Wine
serves 8

One 1 1/2-pound butternut squash
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 leeks, white parts only, coarsely diced (1 1/2 cups)
1 Spanish onion, diced
1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
4 celery ribs
2 carrots, halved lengthwise and cut crosswise 1/2 inch thick
1 parsnip, halved lengthwise and cut crosswise 1/2 inch thick
6 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
Parmesan Croutons, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. Cut the stem off the squash and carefully cut the squash in half lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds. Rub the cut sides of the squash with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Set the squash on a baking sheet, cut sides up, season generously with salt and pepper and cover with a sheet of parchment paper. Roast the squash for about 40 minutes, or until tender. Let the squash cool to room temperature. Scoop out the flesh and coarsely chop it.

2. Meanwhile, in a large, heavy casserole, melt the butter in the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over moderate heat. When the butter begins to brown, add the leeks and onion and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the potatoes, celery, carrots, parsnips, chicken stock, wine and thyme and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover partially and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Add the chopped roasted squash to the chowder; cover and simmer for 10 minutes longer.

3. Transfer one third of the soup to a blender and puree until smooth. Stir the puree into the soup and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the parsley and serve with the Parmesan Croutons.

Potage Parmentier

I often spend at least an hour on Saturday watching cooking shows on Create (the 3rd PBS channel). This past Saturday had a soup theme and Jacques Pepin and Julia Child made a few variations of leek and potato soup on Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home. They couldn't stop talking about how good it was, despite being so simple. I decided to pull out my copy of The French Chef cookbook (which I got at a library sale for only $0.50 a few years ago) and browsed through the recipes from the soup show of that TV series. I decided to make potage parmentier because it is the base for a few well-known soups like vichyssoise and watercress soup and I always like to start with the basics. Julia and Jacques were absolutely right-this soup is fantastic, especially considering how simple it is. How could I ever doubt them? Once warmer weather returns I plan on making vichyssoise as it is a soup traditionally served cold.

The most flavorful and onion-y part of the leek is the white part, so use as much of that as you can; I wouldn't recommend using any of the dark green part for the soup (light green is still okay). I used the white and some of the light green part of two leeks to get the 3 cups for this soup. Leeks are also full of dirt, so wash them really well before using them. I cut mine into pieces before washing to get as much dirt out as possible. Yellow onions can also be used in place of the leeks.

There are also pressure cooker instructions for this recipe; I have not included them here. As with most soups, they should be served with a piece of crusty bread, like French Bread.


Potage Parmentier
from The French Chef Cookbook by Julia Child

3 to 4 c. peeled potatoes, sliced or diced
3 c. thinly sliced leeks or yellow onions
2 quarts water
1 T. salt

 

1/3 c. heavy cream or 2 to 3 T. softened butter
2 to 3 T. minced parsley or chives

1. Combine the vegetables, water, and salt in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan. Simmer, partially covered, for 40 to 50 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.


2. Mash the vegetables in the soup with a fork, or pass the soup through a food mill. Correct seasoning. Set aside uncovered until just before serving, then reheat to a simmer.

3. Final Enrichment. Remove from heat just before serving, and stir in the cream or butter by spoonfuls. Pour into a tureen or soup cups and decorate with herbs.